Around THE WORLD

WITH EYES
WIDE OPEN

The Wonders of the
World Pictured by ^
^ Pen and Pencil -^

BY.

H. Allen Tupper, Jr„ d.d.

Author of "Armenia: Its Present Crisis and Past History," "Columbia's War for
Cuba," "Uncle Allen's Trip Through Palestine," Etc.

Published by
THE CHRISTIAN HERALD

Louis Klopsch, Proprietor

Bible House, New York

1898

Copyright, 1898, LOUIS KLOPSCH.

DEDICATION

Tu my wife

MARIE

and

my children
Allene, Katherine and Tristram

This volume
is lovingly dedicated

H. Allen Tupper. Jr.

How IT ^ ^ -9^

• Happened ^ ^

T happened in this way. In the
spring of 1895, a liandsome map
of the world was presented me
by a friend at Baltimore; and
while glancing at it, hanging

f^on my study wall, I arose from
my desk-chair, one quiet mid-
night hour, and traced with my
pencil a route from Baltimore,
over the American Continent, to
San Francisco, thence to the
Hawaiian islands, Japan, China, Malay Archipelago, Ceylon, India,
Assam, Arabia, Africa, Palestine, Syria, Asia Minor, Europe, and
back again to the Monumental City. This was only on paper I

But, day by day, as my eyes turned wistfully toward the map,

(5)

6 HOW IT HAPPENED.

which now became increasingly fascinating, the desire of my
life to visit the countries of the world, and study the peoples
of earth, grew into a determination to start upon this circuit of
the globe at the earliest practicable moment. Difficulties which
seem insurmountable, frequently fade away as you approach
them. Distance not only lends enchantment to the view, but
oftentimes it disenchants, by seemingly magnifying the obstacles
that lie in the pathway of our goal. The only way to do a
thing is to do it. Events conspire to lend a helping hand to a
determined purpose. A few months after the pencil-tracing on
the map was made, I waved farewell to my loved ones at the
Union Station, Baltimore, and was off — moving toward the setting
sun. While I expected to receive much pleasure from the
extended trip before me, this was not the supreme motive that
actuated me. 1 decided, in my journeyings, frequently to turn
aside from the usual route pursued by the globe-trotter : to
rough it while studying the customs and characteristics of
natives far from the treaty ports ; systematically to record my
impressions and the results of my study, on the ground, day
by day, while they were fresh in my mind : to illustrate these
strange scenes and interesting studies both by the pen and the
photographic art ; and to present to the public a book on travel
that would be somewhat unique in its character. If I have
enabled others to share with me the pleasures and profits of

HOW IT HAPPENED. 7

my visits to many lands and among many peoples, and if I
have evoked or strengthened a desire for travel in the minds of
the readers of these pages, my pen has not written in vain.
In the words of the "Two Gentlemen of Verona," we find
nothing wiser than this :

" 1 rather would entreat thy company
To see the wonders of the world abroad,
Than, living dully sluggardized at home,
Wear out thy youth with shapeless idleness."

H. Allen Tupper, Jr.

-^1 CONTENTS. h^

^^(^^ "C> ^- ^* ^ "^ •C* ^- "^ 'C-'^- -C- ^' ■^- 'C- "C* ^ ■^- ^- ■^'*5'- ^*

CHAPTER II.
LAND OF THE SUNRISE.

Dropping a day in mid-ocean, at the world^s halfway point — Beaiitifnl Yeddo Bay and
snnUt Fuji-Yama — Strange street scenes — Chrysanthemum show — A thrifty race —
A bit of Japanese history — Social life — Marriage customs — Status of woman —
Division of society — Educational development and .foreign influence — National
decorative art — The jinrikisha, an American invention — Newspaper and censor-
ship— Railroad and telegraph rates — The funeral of Prince Kitashirakawa — A
brilliant cortege — ^Japan, after victory — Resolved to become a military and naval
power — Her ambition and anxiety — Russia may reap the fruits of her success —

(9)

PAGK.

CHAPTER I.

ACROSS A CONTINENT AND AN OCEAN.

Colorado's carnival and festival of mountain and plain — The Garden of the Gods — The
wonderland of the Rockies — The grave of Helen Hunt Jackson — Sierra Blanca's
Triple Peak — Through the Toltec Tunnel — The Holy Cross— Our new sister, Utah —
At the Golden Gate — Cosmopolitan San Francisco — Chinatown — The Paradise of
the Pacific — The Sandwich Islands — Volcanic origin — The House of the Ever-
lasting Fire — Historical places and people — Captain Cook's "monument — The lej^er
settlement on Molokai Island Father Damiens — Business prospects and the annexa-
tion question — President McKinley and the treaty of annexation — The Hawaiian
tongue 33-47

lo CONTENTS.

PAOB.

Acquisition of Formosa, and preponderance in Corea— Secret treaty between China
and the Czar— How the eastern breezes blow— Japan's new attitude — The ascend-
ancy of the Samurai — Effect on western merchants and missionaries 4^72

CHAPTER III.
THE INTERIOR OF JAPAN.

Characteristic features of its people and products— Farm and village life— The harvest
festival— Native industries— Process of silkmaking — Lacquer work — In the Mikado's
palace— A beautiful inland sea— Where Li Hung Chang was shot— A unique experi-
ence in a native hotel — In the mountains of Japan— The shrines and temples of
Nikko — One of Japan's five wonders— Monkeys in the mountains— Curious con-
tracts— The two-legged horse, and the two- wheeled carriage— Instructive statistics 73-^

CHAPTER IV.
THE LAND OF THE PIG=TAIL.

The most important city of Central China— The street sights of the Native city— A
typical tea-shop — Questionable water-supply, and epidemics— The opium trade-
Curious customs of contrary creatures — Historico- political review of the Middle
Kingdom— Her government and money — The Empire larger than the whole of
Europe— The Manchou dynasty and hierarchy a corrupt administration— Foreign
influences — Taxes and revenues — The Imperial Cabinet, Censorate and ofl&cials—
The national militia — The navy — Fortifications 87-102

CHAPTER V.

STRANGEST OF STRANGE CITIES.

Canton, China's commercial capital — Its approach by Hong Kong — A floating city of
two hundred thousand souls— The Pearl river— Description of the sights in the
narrow streets— A Chinese dwelling— Sacred hogs— Hideous idols— The leper

CONTENTS. It

village — Slavery of blind girls in Canton— Human beings bought and sold as
chattels— Recent massacres and riots — The Kucheng atrocities— The leader's con-
fession-Characteristic traits of John Chinaman's conduct, dress and head-gear —
Process of foot-binding — The condition of woman — Female fancy, sports and
superstition— The dragon emblem — Food and markets— Capital punishment — The
beggars' guild ... 103-122

CHAPTER VI.

LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE IN THE HIDDLE KINGDOM.

Classification of John Chinaman's tongue— Style of writing — Divisions of speech —
Many dialects— The Mandarin tongue — Puzzling intonation — Multiplicity of verbs-
Spoken and book language diflferent — Development of the memory and imitative
faculty — Civil service examinations — Degrees and promotions — Attempts at a for-
eign tongue — Funny illustrations of Pidgin English — An English colony among
the Celestials — Opium a harbinger to Christian missions — Hatred of the "Outer
Barbarians " — How Hong Kong became British — Effect of English literature upon
art and language . = 123-135

CHAPTER VII.
IN THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO.

Near the Equator — Climate, productions and various races— Land of perpetual sum-
mer— Adami mode of life — Volcanic belt — Malays and Papuans — The island of
Singapore — A babel of tongues — Unwelcome neighbors — Forest of cocoanut trees —
Penang's bronze population — The palace of the Sultan of Johore — Fields of

12 CONTENTS.

PAGE.

research for the naturalist — A comical creature— The oraug outang at home— His
domestic virtues — Dignity of demeanor and elevation of character— The birds of
Paradise— Their brilliant plumage and varieties 136-151

CHAPTER VIII.
THE SPICY BREEZES OF CEYLON.

Tour through forest and jungles— Topography, flora and fauna of the island — Frag-
rant gardens and population — In the Alpine regions of the Kandyan Kingdom —
Strange sights in and about a Ceylonese town — Buddha's great tooth — Ceylon's tea
cultivation — Extremes in Ceylon — A swell Singhalese wedding — Painted, powdered
and brilliantly costumed creatures — In a marriage procession along the Indian
Ocean — The wild men of Ceylon— A strange tribe of savages — The interview with
Arabi Pasha, the Egyptian reformer 152-177

CHAPTER IX.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA.

Pleasurable embarrassment on leaving Ceylou — Elephants on hand — Across the Bay of
Bengal — Breakwaters on the Coromandel coast — The city of Madras, and its sacred
and secular sights — Curious canoes — Black and white town — The people's park,
churches and school — Shops and bazaars — Dancing girls — The Seven Pagodas —
Erom Madras to Calcutta — India's political capital — The City of Palaces — Remini-
•scences of Charnoock, Clive and Warren Hastings— Historic spots — The shrine of
the Goddess Kali — Cremation of the dead — The wonderful banyan tree — King
Oude's palace 178-196

CONTENTS. 13

CHAPTER X.
IN THE HIHALAYAS.

PAGE.

Ascending the mountains on a toy railway — Grandest work of engineering in the
world — City in the clouds — vStupendous magnificence of Alpine scenery — The
" Hall of Snows," viewing Mount Everest — A picture impossible to forget, and
impossible to paint — Changes of vegetation — Interesting types of people— The
market of Darjeeling — Himalayan tea — Railway system in Northern India and
Assam — Sleeping cars that encourage domestic economy — Crossing the mountains —
Verdant delusion — Amusing scenes in the wilds of Assam — On the sacred river of
Brahmaputra — ^Fine hunting grounds — In a bungalow forest hotel — Its guests and
their criticisms — An erratic timepiece 197-212

CHAPTER XI.

THE WONDERS OF INTERIOR INDIA.

Benares on the Ganges — One of the oldest known habitations of man — Wheie Buddha
arose — A shrine of pilgrimage for the Hindu world — Bathing in the holy waters
of the Ganges — The burning ghats — Smoking pyres — The monkey temple — The
Holy Man of Benares — Ed-fices dedicated to cattle — Brasswork and brocades — An
elegy in marble — The Taj Mairal at Agra — The most superb monument ever reared
to woman — When Mohammedan architecture reached its climax — Shah Jehan raid
Arjamand, "The Exalted One of the Palace "—Reign of the Moguls— The mag-
nificent palaces and mosques at Delhi — vStreets full of monkeys — An Indian wolf-
man — His life in the caves and jungles — Failure to teach him human habits — His
capture, training and h.ibits — India's independent State and native rulers — Great
Britain's sovereignty— The Maharajah Mardozing — His capital and palaces — A
ride on elephant-back— Marvelous oriental decorations and jewels, gold and silver
cannon 213-250

34 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIL
THE QUEEN OF THE EAST AND INDIAN HOSAICS.

PA««

The commercial metropolis of India — Its motley population — Religious sects, and
antagonistic creeds — Where vegetarianism flourishes — Veneration for animal life
among the Banians — A warrior class — The Parsees, followers of Zoroaster, fire-
worshipers — Curious head-dress — The towers of silence — Strange disposition of
the dead — Filth and holiness — Brilliant scenes — The Island of Elephanta — An
asylum for animals — Photograph of Indian life — People of various colors, customs
and languages — Indo- Caucasian races — Use of tobacco and intoxicants — Sacred
tnenths and the New Year — A marriage procession — Women's ornaments — The
Nautch dancers — A maharajah's audience, and his premiere danseuse — The Indian
mutiny, causes of the revolt — Nana Sahib's perfidy — The defence of Lucknow —
The present uprising — Caste and outcasts — A personal experience — Marks on the
forehead — Famine in India — Dr. Klopsch and the Christian Herald 251-262

CHAPTER Xni.
FAREWELL TO INDIA, GREETING TO EGYPT,

Through the Arabian and Red seas — The Arab on his native heath — The Suez canal —
The marriage of the Mediterranean and Red seas — Planned by the Pharaohs — Na-
poleon Bonaparte's foiled project — Perseverance and personality of De Lesseps, the
constructor — England's hostile attitude — A new era in commerce — Cost of the canal
— Cuts through historic land — Three Egypts — Land of Arabian Nights— In the
streets of Cairo— The gateway of the Ali, and the paths of Harun-al-Raschid—
Scenes from Thousand and One nights — Bazars and public buildings — Picturesque
costumes — Saracenic architecture — Mohammedan homes and women — Mosques and
citadel— The Dervishes 263-277

CONTENTS. 15

CHAPTER XIV.
THE HISTORIC NILE AND THE EXCAVATOR'S PICK-AXE.

PAOB.

The divisions of Upper and Lower Egypt — The Valley of the Nile — Centre of ancient
culture — The Delta fertility — Characteristic scenes on the historic stream — ^The
Nubians — The Lybian hills — L,ife as it existed thousands of years ago — A wonder-
land of history — The sacred sycamore tree — ^Where Joseph married Potiphar'a
daughter — Splendor and records of Memphis — Sakkarah's Necropolis, the Apis
mausoleum — The Temple of Osiris and the tablet of the Kings — Abydos and the
Memnonium — The portraits of Cleopatra and Csesarion — Wondrous Thebes, the
Citj-of a Hundred Gates of Homer's verse — Its unearthed monuments — The hugest
statue ever cut out of a single stone — ^The twin colossi — Vocal Memnon — ^Tombs of
the Kings — Temples of Luxor and Karnak — The Hall of Columns and its sculptured
records — An Egyptian enc5'clop3edia, carved by the chisel — The Island of Philae
— Saved from the Vandals — Traces and theories of the prehistoric man — Explora-
tions during the last year — Explorations of Professor Flinders Petrie — ^The dis-
covery of " The Sayings of Christ " 27^-304

CHAPTER XV.
THE GREAT PYRAniDS AND THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS.

"Whv were the Pyramids built? — Psychological theories of the Egyptians — The tomb
an eternal home — The sepulchre of Cheops — Its grandeur and dimensions —
The interior and contents — The legend of Queen Nitocris, the Loreley of the Nile —
The Great Sphynx of Gizeh — A mysterious statue hewn in the living rock — Whence
came the original Egyptians? — ^The aboriginal race — Bible lore and picture record
— Effect of inter-marriage with Semitic people — The Egyptian of to-day an exact
reproduction of his ancestors — The Fellahin — The Copts of Upper Egypt, and their
religion — Bedouins, Greeks and other elements — Alexandria as it was, and now is
— Anglo-Egyptian expedition up the Nile 305-333

l6 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.
PILGRinS IN PALESTINE, THE HOLY CITY.

From Egypt to Syria — The city of Jaffa — Approaching the Holy City— Pilgrims to the
holy sepulchre — Bird's-eye view of the city of the great king — Work of the Pales-
tine exploration fund — The Church of the Holy Sepulchre— The Mosque of Omar
— The sacred rock — The praying places of Abraham, Elijah, David, Solomon and
Mohammed — The Via Dolorosa — The Jews' wailing place — The mountains round
about Jerusalem — The site of Calvary and the sepulchre — Traditional localities are
not the true ones — St. Helena's Dream — Major Conder's discovery — Probable sites
of the Crucifixion, and the rock-hewn grave —Inferences 334-357

CHAPTER XVII.

PEOPLES AND PLACES OF THE SOUTH AND NORTH.

Among the Bedouins — An American guide's story — Life and habits of migrator}- robber
tribes — A missionary adventure — Home of Eli and Samuel — At Jacob's well — The
Samaritans — On Mount Gerizim — The City of Samaria ...,...,. o.. . 35S-363

CHAPTER XVIII.

IN SADDLE AND TENT.

Records of Bethel — Footsteps of the Saviour — The Plain of Esdraelon and the Valley of

Jezreel — Mount Tabor — Nazareth, scenes of Christ's youth — The Virgin's fountain

— Cana and the Mount of Beatitude — The last battlefield of the Crusaders — On the

Sea of Galilee — Divine associations— Camping near Capernaum, Bethsaida and

Chorazin— Moonlight sail on the eastern side of the lake 364-376

CONTENTS. 17

CHAPTER XIX.
THE EYE OF THE EAST.

PAGE.

Damascus, the Eye of the East, reared before the time of Abraham — The stream of Leb-
anon— Beautiful environments of modern Damascus — Its l)azars and streets — The
fanaticism of the people — The unspeakable Turk — Paul's conversion and his stay
in the city — The marvelous ruins of Baalbec — Sun worship, and temples — Courts
and porticoes — Sun's trilithon — The quarries of Lebanon 375-3^1

CHAPTER XX.
IN ASIA MINOR.

The Levant — Smyrna, the capital of Anatolia — Centre of the caravan trade of Asia
Minor — Busy streets— Its glorious past — Its antiquities — Birthplace of Homer —
Ephesus, the old capital of Ionia — Birthplace of Diana — Its location — Christian
association — Paul and the Ephesians — Its ruins — Pagan and Christian record —
Turkish tyranny — Official rottenness — Oppressive taxation — ^Justice with a vengeance
— Constantinople, the City of the Sultan — Its beautiful situation — Its name and his-
tory— Life and scenes — Galata, on the north of the Golden Horn — Pera, the town
of Sartari — The Mosque of St. Sophia — Curious sepulchral chapels — The bazars and
the crowds — A world in miniature — Up the Bosphorus 3S2-395

CHAPTER XXI.
A REIGN OF TERROR.

Appalling state of affairs in Armenia — A plan of extermination — Massacre of Christians
at the Sultan's orders — Victims of diabolical torture — Hecatombs of martyrs in the
Church of Oorfa — Treatment of women — Work of relief — Who are the Armenians?
Their religion and clergy — Culture and education — Traders and farmers — Home
and family — An unmixed race— The attitude of the powers — Christian Herald work

i8 CONTENTS.

PA.O«.

— ^A colonization scheme — Would it be practicable ? — Missions in Turkey — Educa-
tional influences — Centres of light for Asia — Thorns in the flesh of the Sultan — Re-
capitulation of the situation 396-430

CHAPTER XXII.
AMIDST THE CLASSIC RUINS OF GREECE.

The Acropolis of Athens and the age of Hellenic art — ^The gates of the Propylaea and the
Parthenon — Embodiment of majesty and grace — Sculptured decorations — Work of
Phidias — In the time of Pericles — Theatres and temples — Statue of Athene — St.
Paul on Mar's Hill — Theatre of Dionysus — Superiority of the Greek stage over the
Modern — The decline of Hellas — Dr. Schliemann's excavations, and Homer's poems
— An inspiring helpmate — Historic Troy — Homer's testimony — Ancient art of writ-
ing— Americans at the Olympic games — Athenian parliamentary election on
Sunday : 421-431

CHAPTER XXIII.

A OEH OF THE SEAS.

Ascension of Vesuvius on foot — At the crater's mouth — The twenty-fourth of August 0/
seventy -nine — ^The historical aspect of Vesuvius— Destruction of Pompeii, and the
death of Pliny, the naturalist — A dead city — Excavations and discoveries — Streets
and structure of houses in the buried city — A Roman summer resort — Antiquities —
Lifting the veil between the present and the past 432-444

CHAPTER XXIV.
THE CITY OF THE C/ESARS.

The facts and fables of Rome 445-457

CONTENTS.

19

CHAPTER XXV.

PA««.

GENOA AND GIBRALTAR.

An ancient town's republican career — The ages and palaces of the Doges — The modern
history of Genoa — Reminiscences of Garibaldi — Home of Christopher Columbus —
The key to the Mediterranean Sea — Strait of Gibraltar — An impregnable citadel —
A necessity for England — Its history and description — Its caves and Moorish occu-
pation— The town of Gibraltar — Across the Atlantic and home again 458-464

'^^SiJil^s^Q^*—

-4 ILLUSTRATIONS, h

PAGK.

Dr. H. Allen Tupper, Jr 33

Pike's Peak from Colorado Springs 34

Within the Gates, Garden of the Gods 35

The "Mountain of the Cross," Colorado 36

The East Side of East Temple Street, Salt Lake City 37

Sacramento Canon, California 38

San Francisco and the Golden Gate 39

The Royal Palace, Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands 41

Hawaiian Girls in Floral Garlands » • 43

Honolulu Pineapple Grove 45

A Hawaiian Grass Hut and its Occupants 46

Laborer of the Cooley Class 49

Gambling in Japan 5°

Buddhist Temple, Nikko, Japan 5^

Interior Buddhist Temple, Japan 5^

Music in the Home, Japan 53

Hair Arranged by Unmarried Woman, Japan 54

Four Japanese Ladies ^■^

Japanese Belles ^

Wedding Procession, Japan 57

(21)

22 ILLUvSTRATIONS.

PAGE.

Japauese Girls Carrying Babies ... 5&

At School, Japan 59

Japanese Actress 60

Japanese Actor 6i

A Japanese Actress 6i

Japanese Carriage 62'

Jinrikisha 63,

In the Home, Japan 64.

Japanese Domestics 65

Entrance to Japanese Temple 66

Entrance to Sheba Temple, Tokio 67

Tea Drinking, Japan 68.

Mountain Village, Japan 69..

Fruit Merchant, Japan 71

Rice Planting, Japan 74

Working with Silk Weavers, Japan 75

Street Scene in Yokohama, Japan 76

Japan Fan Dealer 77

Inland Sea, Japan 78

Favorite Game with Japanese Girls 79.

At Nikko, Japan 80

'Work on Temple, Japan 81

Holy Horse before Buddhist Temple, Nikko, Japan 82-

Japan Lady in Jinrikisha 84.

Women Prisoners, Shanghai, China 88.

Chinese Barber Shop, Shanghai, China 89.

The Golden Island, with Unfinished Pagoda, near Chin Kiang 90

The Art of Printing as seen in Shanghai, China 91

River Scene at Kayin, China 9*

ILLUSTRATIONS. 33

rAGB.

A Tea Picker 93

Farmiug Operations in Southern China — Plowing with an Ox 94

Earl Li Visiting General Grant's Tomb 95

The Pekin Gate in the Great Wall of China 96

Exterior of the Royal Palace, Pekin, China 97

A Kayin Plowman 98

Reception of a Foreign Ambassador Ijy the Emperor of China ... 99

A Nine-inch Gun, Chinese Artillery, Ready for Action . 100

Native Farm in the Vicinity of Canton, China lor

On the River, Canton 104

A Chinese Gentleman's Home 105

Temple at Ningpo 106

Bird's-eye View of Canton, China 107

The "Floating City " on Pearl River, Canton, China 108

Island of the Little Orphan in the Yangtze 109

Redeemed Blind Girls under Miss Whilden's Care, Canton, China iii

Chinese Gambling on the Roof of a House at Canton, China 113

Mrs. Grave's and Miss White's Girls' School at Canton, China 115

Bound Foot of Chinese Woman 117

The Beheading of Pirates Near Hong Kong, China 119

Chinese Execution, Canton 121

Immediately after Beheading of Pirates near Hong Kong, China 124

A Literary OflBcer and his Wife - - 126

Head of a Pirate Hung upon the Roadside at Canton, China 128

Street Scene, Hong Kong, China 131

Crematory at Canton, Used for Burning the Bodies of Priests - 132

Chief Magistrate, Shanghai I33

Farmers and their Wives Threshing Rice i34

Malay Man . 137

24 ILI^USTRATIONS.

PAGE.

Natives of Singapore 138

Malay Children , 140

Travelers' Palm, Singapore 141

Group in Malay Archipelago 142

Cocoa 143

An Orang-Outang from Penang ^ 144

The Delicious Mangosteen, vSingapore • .... 145

An Orang-Outang from Penang — the Temperance Uuestion 146

Papuan Children 147

Kandyan Chief, or Headman .... • . . 149

A Kandyan Girl 150

Pearl Fisheries of Ce3lon 151

Talipot Palm • • I53

Dr. Tupper and ]\Ir. Harmon in Ceylon . 154

Talipot Palm 155

T^vo-^vheel Bullock Cart 156

Scraping Cinnamon 157

Cart in Central Ce3-lon 158

Ceylonese Women and Girls on Tea Estate 159

Tea Blossom and Seed 161

Hoeing Tea 163

Women Sifting Tea - 165

Tamils, Ceylon 166

Tea Packing and Weighing 167

Low Caste Tamil Girl 16S

Mt. Lavinia Hotel, Colombo, Ceylon 169

Colombo High Caste 170

Singhalese Man 171

An Elephant March 172

ILLUSTRATIONS. 25

PAGE.

Arabi Pasha, an Exile in Ceylon > 173

Singhalese Girl 174

Malay Gypsies c ...... 175

Street of Madras 179

Catamaran Fishing Boats, Madras iSo

Native Passenger Cart, Madras 181

Gronp of Toddymen, Madras 182

Devil Dancers of Madras 183

Double Bullock Raikla, Madras 184

A Thoroughfare in Calcutta 185

A Madras Belle 186

Calcutta Harbor 187

Madras Coolie 188

Avenue of Palms, Botanical Garden, Calcutta 1S9

Hindu Sacrifice, Kali Ghat, Calcutta 190

Great Banyan Tree, Calcutta 191

River Front, Calcutta 192

Botanical Gardens, Calcutta , . 193

Bathing Ghat, Calcutta 19,5

Ascending the Himalaj^as 198

A Lepcha Man 199

Darjeeling Railvi^ay 200

A Lepcha Woman 201

The City in the Clouds, Darjeeling, India 202

A Rustic Scene in India — Buffalo Plowing 203

Darjeeling Bazaar Types - 204

The Darjeeling Bazaar 296

Group of Bhooteas, Darjeeling 209

Dandy, Darjeeling, India 210

26 ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAG-E

Cart for the High Caste, India . • 212

Burning Ghat, Benares 215

A Mountain Musician, India 216

Buddhist Festival 217

Holy Man 218

Palace, Agra, India 219

Taj Mahal. Agra, India 221

Taj Mahal, Agra, India 223

Taj Mahal and Jumna River, India 225

Entrance to Palace, Delhi, India 227

The Kutub Miuar, Delhi 229

Aurungzelis Mosque, Benares 231

Palace of Maharaja of Indore, Benares 233

An Indian Rustic 234

The Maharajah of Nagpur's Ghat, Benares 235

Llama With Praying Wheel 236

Dancing Girl of Jeypore, India 237

Indian Actress ..... 238

An Ornamented Woman of India 239

Oudh Exhibition and Surroundings, Lucknow 241

The Hooseinabad Emambara, Lucknow 243

vSpecimens of Low Caste 245

High Caste Indian Woman 246

Maharajah's Palace, Jeypore 247

Street Scene, Calcutta . 249

Bombay Harbor 252

Silent Tower, Bombay 253

A Hindu Sacrifice 254

Mohammedans at a Religious Festival , . 255

ILLUSTRATIONS. 27

PAGE.

Dr. Tupper in Central India , 256

The Indur Mahal from Garden, Jeypore 257

Dr. Tupper Among Buddhist Ascetics, Bombay 258

Hindu Fakir "Whose Arms Have Been Up for Many Years and Cannot Take Them Down . 259

Dr. Tupper at Jeypore, India 260

Buddhist Priestess 261

Dr. Tupper and Friends Sailing Up the Red Sea 264

The Port of Ismailia, on the Suez Canal 266

Street in Modern Cairo • 268

An Arab Family 270

Lower Class Woman, Cairo 271

A Morning Ride 272

Dance Girl, Cairo 273

A Dervish 275

Dance of the Dervishes 276

Temple at AbydoF • • 277

"Water-wheel on the Nile 279

Process of Ancient and Modern Irrigation on the Nile 281

Interior of Temple of Abydos 283

Our Nile Boat 284

Cleopatra Portrait at Denderah, on the Nile 285

The Nile's Delta 286

Along the Nile 287

Scene on the Arabian Desert 289

The "Vocal Memnon 290

TheSakieh 291

The Nile Water Carriers 293

Karnak in Ruins . . 294

Statue of Rameses 295

28 IIvLUSTRATIONvS.

PAGE.

Island of Pliilic 296

Interior of Temple, Edfon, Nile 297

Obelisk at Luxor 29S

Interior of Temple of Kariiak 300

Hall of Columns, Karnak • ^02

The Temple of Pliilas, Nile , 303

Road from Cairo to the Pyramids 306

Rameses II i-ot

Pyramid of Cheops 30S

A Nile Belle 30a

Sphinx , ^IQ

Dame Soudall .. • -^n

Cleopatra at Denderah -12

Carving at Sakkaral ^^13

Water Carrier, Cairo 31^

Young Negress in Soudan 315

Type of the Negress -^16

Syrian Bedouins 317

Negro (Soudanese) ^iS

English Camel Corps Going Up the Nile 319

Nubian on the Nile 320

The First Cataract 321

Femme Abarambou de Mambetou (Equateurj 322

Nile Water Carriers 323

Soudanese (Negress) 324

Egyptian Dance Girl 325

Typical Oriental Dragoman 326

Egyptian Army in Camp 327

Fellah Woman 32S

ILIvUSTRATIONS. 29

PAGE.

Scene in the Valley of the Nile 330

Scene between Jaffa and Jerusalem 331

Jordan River 335

The Ancient Gateway of Samarcand, in Turkestan 336

Jerusalem Merchants 339

The Centre of the Karth, Church of the Holy vSepulchre, Jerusalem 340

Entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre 341

The "Wailing Place" in Jerusalem 343

Golgotha 345

The " Ecce Homo " Arch, Jerusalem 346

Church of Nativity 347

The Traditional Stone of hllijah, near Bethlehem 349

A Bethlehem Merchant 351

Gibeon, the Scene of Solomon's Sacrifice 354

Syrian Peasant Mother and Daughter 357

Palestine Mat Weavers 360

The Tomb of Joseph, near Shechem 361

Weaving 363

Farming in Valle}- of Jezreel 366

Bird's-eye View of Nazareth 367

A Palestine Bedouin .• 368

The Tower of Jezreel, Palestine, as it now appears 369

A Palestine Burden Bearer -371

Group vShowing Costumes of Palestine at Present Day 373

Damascus 377

Woman Grinding Flour at Damascus 378

Orphans in Camp on a Trip to the Jordan in 1897 381

An Encampment of Kurds in the Mountains of Asia Minor 384

A Turkish Pasha 386

30 ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE.

Sultan's Mosque 388

Turkish Woman 390

The Sultan 's Palace of Dolma-Bagtche, Constantinople 391

Peasant Village Girls of Roumania 392

A Turkish Salon at Constantinople 394

Armenian Fugitives on the Turko- Persian Border 395

Recently-made Armenian Graves in the Suburb of Van 397

Mohammedan Women 399

Armenian School 401

Turkish Society Woman 403

A Group of Armenian Orphan Boys of Cesarea and Tabas 405

An Armenian Home 408

Decorated by the Sultan 410

A Typical Turkish Dwelling of the Poorer Class 412

An Ancient Eastern Church, now Desecrated 414

Armenians Held Prisoners After the Trebizond Massacre 416

Women and Children Waiting the Daily Distribution of Food ... 418

American Mission at Oorfa 420

Port for Athens 422

View of Athens 424

Athenian Excavations 426

Schliemann's Excavations, Old Troy 42S

Historic Troy 429

A Classic Head, Athens . 430

Belle of Athens 431

A Modern Greek Maid 433

A Modern Greek 434

Prison of Socrates, Athens 435

Acropolis, .\thens 436

IlylvUSTRATION 31

PAGE.

City of Naples, with Mt. Vesuvius in the Background 437

Grecian Cadet 439

Soldier of Athens 440

Athenian Street Merchant 442

Priest of the Greek Church . 444

General View of Rome 446

St. Peter's and the Vatican, Rome 447

Interior of the Chapel on the Spot Where St. Peter was Crucified 448

Altar to the Unknown God 449

The Vatican, Rome . . . . 451

Excavations of the Forum, Italy 453

The Coliseum, Rome 454

Temple of Minerva, Rome 456

Panorama of Genoa 459

Columbus Monument, Genoa . 461

Gibraltar 463

aj^

roiiDd fbe World

WITH

es Wide Open

^^^^

(32)

j^pound the wopld ^
With Eyes Wide Open.

CHAPTER I.
ACROSS A CONTINENT AND AN OCEAN.

CROSS the continent in five clays and
nights, crossing eleven States and
covering 3400 miles! Every im-
aginable panorama passes before
the eye dnring this trip from the Atlantic
to the Pacific — the cultivated fields, the
quiet hamlets, the crowded cities, the
homes of cliff-dwellers, the rushing
rivers, the snow-blanketed mountains,
and the sparkling bay opening into the
great sea. West of Chicago, until we
reach the ocean, Denver attracts the at-
tention of the tourist more than any
other cit}'. Like white-plumaged sen-
tinels, the snow capped peaks stand
guard over this pride of the West.
The Denver Carnival.
Fortunately we happened in her streets
while the brilliant "Carnival and Festival of
Mountain and Plain " was in full blast. The
city was bedecked in yellow and white (gold
and silver), the procession, composed of symbolic floats, moved through the
streets, United States troops, cowboys, cit}- officials, Indians, members of local
and national orders, school and college youths fell into line, and, under the
thrill of stirring music from string and brass bands, ever}- one caught the spirit of
the festival, which is intended to lift the shadows and rift the clouds of financial
depression that have cast gloom over the State of Colorado for the last years.

Two hundred and seventy miles from Denver, at an elevation of 10,200 feet,
we reach the unique city of Leadviile, one of the richest placer camps in Colorado,

3 (33)

DR. H. .\LLEN TUPPER, JR.

34

AROUND THE WORI^D

knowu to fame in 1859 as California Gulch, where $5,000,000 in gold were worked
out during five years. As we dash out of this picturesque State we are reminded
of the exclamation of Joaquin Miller: "Colorado, rare Colorado! Yonder she
rests: her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky Mountains, her feet in the brown

PIKE'S PEAK FROM COLORADO SPRINGS.

grass; the boundless plains for a playground; she is set on a hill before the world,
and the air is very clear, so that all may see her well."

The Garden of the Gods.

The ride from Denver to San Francisco can never be forgotten by the lover
of the beautiful in nature. The wonderland of the Rocky Mountains opens, hour
by hour before him, the most enchanting scenes. In the Garden of the Gods are
seen vivid suggestions of Athens and the Parthenon, Palmyra and the Pyramids,

WITH EYEvS WIDE OPEN.

35

Thebes and her crumbling- columns. While riding upon a plateau oi' over 10,000
feet above the sea >ou look from your car window and there, standing outlined
against the clear azure background, gigantic portals ri.se hundreds of feet above you
and flash with the bright splendor of carnelian. The obliging conductor points
out "Statue of Liberty," "Cathedral Spire," " Dolphin," a "Bear and Seal;"'

WITHIN THK GATES, GARDEN OF THE GODS.

but these names seem quite inadequate to express your inexpressible admiration of
the marvelous forms which nature assumes in these mountainous contortions.

The Cheyenne Mountain.

As we pass near the Cheyenne canj'on, the scene changes. Down the side of
the gorge leaps and foams a series of cascades — seven falls pouring the water from

36

AROUND THE WORLD

the melted snow above in the echoing chasm beneath. It will be remembered that
on the eastern slope of the Cheyenne Mountain was the grave of that sweet

American poetess,

/ Helen Hunt Jackson

;' . ("H. H."), whose

rhymes have covered
these barren slopes
with fadeless verdure.
Sierra Blanca is
the giant of the Rock-
ies, and is the loftiest
mountain, with one
e[xception, in the
United States. It is
a triple peak and
springs from the val-
ley 14,469 feet — over
r.vo miles and three-
fifths of ascent. As
you watch the varied
beauties of ' ' Wagon
Wheel Gap ' ' the train
plunges into the black-
ness of Toltec Tun-
nel, which pierces the
summit instead of the
base of the mountain.
When you emerge
from the tunnel a
thrilling sight greets
your eye. From a
trestle-bridge you look
into a tremendous
"sorge, whose sides are
splintered rocks and
huge crags and bould-
ers; below are the
white waters of a

THE "mountain of the cross," COLORADO.

foaming

torrent, above the deep-blue sky
mystery of the mountains.

and on either side the majesty and

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

37

Space f.-bids me tosp:dc of the homes of the cliff-dwellers in picturesque
ruins, or to dwell upon the wonders of Royal Gorge, Fremont Pass, the Black
Canyon, Jjarshall Pass and Castle Gate.

The Holy Cross.

But the Mountain of the Holy Cross cannot be passed unnoticed. From
the crest of Tennessee Pass, many miles away, you can plainly distinguish
the snow-white emblem of the Christian faith gleaming with bright splendor
against the sky. The cross is formed by canyons of immense depths riven
down and across the summit of the mountain. Eternal snow fills these canj-ons, and

this ' ' sign set in the heavens " is a silent sermon of the greates

4- C^

?t of all the ages.

■

THE EAST SIDE OF EAST TEMPLE STREET, SAET LAKE CITY.

Our new sister, Utah, contains one of the most mysterious inland seas on the
globe. The lake's surface is higher than the Alleghenies, and its dead, tideless
waters remain an unsolved enigma. One cannot sink on account of the density of
the water, which contains 22 per cent solid matter, or 167^3 salt — greater than the
Dead Sea of the Holy Eand. In the early morning we leave the train, and,
sailing over the beautiful San Francisco Bay, we reach the city of the Golden
Gate, situated at the north end of a peninsula thirty miles long, separating the
Pacific Ocean from the bay.

At the Golden Gate.

San Francisco is pre-eminently a cosmopolitan city. Its buildings display
every style of architecture and its population is composed of every nationality.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

39

Yesterday morning was spent in studying the magnificent apartments of several
of the palaces of millionaires on California street, and last night was largely
occupied by me in the opium dens and narrow alleys of "Chinatown," where
25,000 of these sons of the " Celestial Kingdom " swarm in filth and degradation.
Two such localities, so near together, cannot be found perhaps on the globe.

Sutro Heights, overlooking the Seal rocks, where thousands of these queer
animals perform their fantastic capers and fill the air with their ceaseless barking;
the Golden Gate Park, where the grounds and flora remind one of the tales of fairy-

SAN FRANCISCO AND THE GOLDEN GATE.

land, and the delightful drives, stretching along the waters where the bay rolls
through the Golden Gates into the great Pacific — these are a few of the features
that give fame to this city.

If San Francisco does not become one of the great cities of the world, the
cause will be found in her failure to take advantage of the many natural blessings
that Providence has lain at her door. The word winter cannot well apply to any
of her twelve months; in front of her is a land-locked sheet of water some fifty
miles long and of varying width opening to the sea, while she nestles in the

40 AROUND THE WORLD

central edge of a, rich agricultural province; and at the doorstep is the terminal
point of the great trans-continental routes. On the beautiful bay may be seen
crafts of every kind from the tiny rowboat to the monster ocean steamer; and
fringing the entire water front is a forest of masts.

The magnificent steamer, China, was trembling in her moorings, as we crossed
the gangway on a beautiful October morning; and a few hours later we passed
through the Golden Gate, due West. Our steamer contained a world in itself.
The hundreds of pas.sengers represented every class in society, from the charming,
aristocratic bride to the wretched, sickly -looking Chinese steerage passenger on
his way home to die. In the stern of the ship, we noticed queer-shaped boxes in
great piles; and it was learned that these were Chinese coffins, containing the
bones and dust of members of the Celestial Kingdom, whose last resting-place must
be their loved land.

The days were full of sunshine, the nights full of stars, and the ocean quite
pacific, during the first week of our journey; and on the eighth da}- we caught
a glimpse of the Hawaiian Islands; soon the white houses of Honolulu were
in sight; and in the twilight of the evening we were anchored in the handsome
harbor facing the Paradise of the Pacific.

The Hawaiian group consists of five principal islands; Hawaii, Maui, Oahu,
Molokai and Ranai, located about 2000 miles from San Francisco in the Northern
Pacific Ocean, between the ninteenth and twenty-third parallels of latitude. As
our steamer approaches Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, the seat of the Hav/aiian
government, the picturesque Diamond Head is seen outlined against the sk\-.
This headland is an extinct volcano, whose tires in years past lit the sea far in
the distance, acting as nature's lighthouse to warn the passing mariner. Passing
this verdureless dome as we move toward the harbor, groves of cocoanut trees,
stately palms, graceful ferns and every variety of tropical plants greet the eye ;
and looking upon this "Paradise of the Pacific," you can excuse Mr. Samuel L.
Clemens for his enthusiastic reminiscence: "I can see its garlanded crags, its
leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits
floating like islands about the cloud racks. I can feel the spirit of its woodland
solitudes; I can hear the gurgle of its brooks; and in my nostrils still lives the
breath of flowers that perished twenty years ago. ' ' My friend of years, Mr.
Willis, the distinguished United States minister to the islands, gave us an
old-fashioned Kentucky welcome, and through his courtesy our visit was
made most instructive and delightful.

A Charming Panorama.

From Punchbowl Hill, an extinct crater, rising in the rear of the capital
city, a very fine view is taken of the surrounding land and water. The old

<

z

'J

(41)

42 AROUND THE WORLD

lolaiii Palace, the government buildings, the statue of Kamehameha I. in full
war costume of a Hawaiian chief, the Hawaiian opera house, the barracks, the
royal palm avenue leading to the Queen's hospital, the winding Pearl River, the
wide-spreading rice and sugar plantations and the sloping beach, glistening under
the tropical sun, attract attention and present a charming panorama. One of the
most attractive drives around Honolulu takes us up a gradual ascent from the
sea to a height of 1200 feet and brings us to the noted Pali. Here we visit the
royal mausoleum, the last resting place of the Hawaiian royalty'. The spot upon
which we stand is historically very interesting.

Historical Scenes.

Here Kalamikupouli, the chief of the island, made his last stand against
Kamehameha I., who conquered and consolidated the islands during the last
century. The decisive battle was waged in May, 1795, and at the bottom of a
great precipice the guide insists that there can be found the skulls and bones of
many of the warriors who were driven to death in their struggle for independ-
ence. At Kaawaloa, on the island of Hawaii (the largest of the group), is the
place where the brave Captain Cook fell. A plain obelisk of concrete, standing
in a small enclosure surrounded by chains and old cannon, has been erected to
his memory. The following is the inscription:

"In memory of the great circumnavigator. Captain James Cook, R. N., who
discovered these Islands on the 18th of January, A. D, 1778, and fell near this
spot on the 14th of February, A. D, 1779, this monument was erected by some
of his fellow-countrymen. "

Volcanic Forces.

Even a casual study of Hawaii causes you to realize its igneous origin.
Every part of the island bears the Plutonic mark, and it is readily seen that it
has been raised ridge by ridge and mountain by mountain up to Alpine heights
by volcanic forces that are still in operation. Here is found Kilauea, the largest
active volcano in the world, and the Hale-man-man, or House of Everlasting
Fire of the Hawaiian mythology, is one of the marvels of the univer.se. As its
brink is approached one can easily sympathize with the emotional description of
a noted writer: "I think we all screamed, I know we all wept, but we were
speechless, for a new glory and terror had been added to the earth. It is the
most unutterable of wonderful things. The words of common speech are quite
useless. Here was the real 'bottomless pit,' the 'fire which is not quenched.'
the fiery sea whose waves are never weary. There were groanings, rumblings
and detonations, rushings. hissings and splashings, and the crushing sound of
breakers on the coast, but it was the .surging of fiery waves upon a fiery shore."

WITH EYEvS WIDE OPEX.

The pit is nine miles in circumference; its lowest area covers six square miles,
and the depth of the crater varies from eight hundred to eleven hundred feet,
according as the molten sea is at flood or ebb.

The Leper Colony.

The neighboring island of Molokai is noted chiefly as the place of the leper
settlement. We did not insist upon visiting this home of the living dead, but
from the distance the
village presented a
pretty appearance,
with its pure white
cottages dotting the
green plain, and the
spires of several
churches and the more
imposing public build-
ings gave the impres-
sion of a peaceful,
happy community.
The place selected for
the centralization of
this dread disease is
a plain of 20,000
acres, hemmed in by
the sea and walls of
rock, varying from
1000 to 2500 feet in
height. The lepers
are confined within
the boundaries of the
island, but those
whose condition al-
lows them to live out-
side of the hospital
mingle freely among
themselves, and de-
spite their dreadful and incurable malady, seem, I am told, to get some sweetness
out of their bitter cup of life.

It was in the year 1865 that the Hawaiian Legislature established this leper
settlement on the i.sland of Molokai. When the official announcement was made

HAWAIIAN GIRLS IN FU)RAL G.^RLANDS.

44 AROUND THE WORIvD

that the isolation of lepers must take place the natives hid their leprous relatives
and friends under mats, in forests and caves, and as late as 1873 it was estimated
that over four hundred of these unfortunates, with glazed eyes, bloated faces and
decayed limbs, were still living among the people of the islands. No one can
dwell upon this home of hideous disease and slow- coming death without being
thrilled by the self-forgetful devotion of Father Damiens, the heroic Belgian
priest, who, following the example of his divine Master, laid down his life for
the suffering and has received the everlasting crown worn by the noble army of
martyrs.

The Hawaiian Tongue.

I was quite fortunate in forming the acquaintance of an intelligent New
Yorker whose long residence on the islands and whose active mercantile life
enabled him to give me information on numerous subjects of interest. From
what he tells me I imagine that the language is not very difficult to master.
Although there are only twelve letters, some of these are made to perform double
duty, as K is also T, and L, is also R. Each word, and indeed each syllable,
ends with a vowel, and you hear nothing of ihe harsh explosive and sibilant
consonants. These vowels as they glide from the Hawaiian tongue call to mind
the soft Italian pronunciation, and the effect is most harmonious and delightful.
The names of places are frequently compounded with zca/, water, and are quite
musical. Wailuku, "water of destruction;" Waioli, "singing water ;" Waipio,
"vanquished water." The natives have no surnames, and a man may have one
name and his wife and children may be called by anything else.

Commerce and Industries.

Finding that my new-made friend was inclined to be communicative, I ven-
tured to ask him three leading questions, namely: Wliat is the commercial outlook
of the islands? What is the political outlook of the islands? What about the
decrease of the native Hawaiians? He insists that every day the business pros-
pect of the islands is brightening and no time since his residence among the
Hawaiians has he witnessed such a general but gradual revival in mercantile life.
Added to the sugar and rice staples, there is, just now, a decided inclination
toward the growth of coffee, and he thinks in the near future a certain portion of
the islands will be as famous in the raising of this product as it has been in the
culture of sugar and rice.

Political Situation.

At the reception given by President Dole, who by the way is the son of an
American missionar}-, we were enabled to form a conception of the personnel of the
present administration of the Hawaiian Islands. The president and his assistants

( 4.S J

46

AROUND THE WORLD

are substantial, conservative gentlemen ; and while they must know that the exist-
ing government is only temporary, they are attempting practical and permanent
improvements. It does not take a prophet or the son of a prophet to foresee that
ere long the Stars and Stripes will be floating over these islands. Indeed, formal
steps have been taken by our government looking to this end. In transmitting the
Treaty of Annexation to the Senate President McKinley uses these words: "The
incorporation of the Hawaiian Islands into the body politic of the United States is

A HAWAIIAN GRASS HUT AND ITS OCCUPANTS.

the necessary and fitting sequel to the chain of events which from a very early period
of our history has controlled the intercourse and prescribed the association of the
United States and the Hawaiian Islands." The Treaty presented to the Senate
is a remarkable document. The Republic of Hawaii cedes absolutely to the
United States all rights of sovereignty over the Hawaiian Islands and their
dependencies, including all lands, ports, harbors, buildings, military equipments;
it provides that special land laws relative to Hawaii are to be enacted by the
American Congress; revenue from the sale of Hawaiian lands, excepting that

WITH EYEvS WIDE OPEN. 47

which is to be used for governmental purposes, is to be expended for educational
purposes in Hawaii; complete civil, judicial and military control shall be exer-
cised by the United States; the public debt of Hawaii, which is not to exceed
$4,000,000, is to be assumed by the United States; and the President is to
appoint five commissioners, two being native Hawaiians, to consider and recom-
mend to Congress necessary legislation for the new territory. The Japanese
Minister at Washington, representing his government, filed a formal protest
against annexation, on the ground that this measure would work injustice to
Japanese interests and claims on these islands; and England has shown some
interest in the matter; but it is thought that any international complications
arising from the ownership of these lovely islands by the United States will be
adjusted satisfactorily.

Aboriginal Population.

The decrease of the Hawaiians is as pathetic as it is inevitable. For years
the native stock has been dying out, and to-day, while there are nearly one
hundred thousand persons on the islands, there are not more than forty thous.ind
pure descendants of the aborigines. The intermarrying of the whites and the
half-whites and the Chinese and natives is constantly going on, and the com-
plexion and general characteristics of those whom you meet on the streets tell
the tale of this amalgamation.

Our noble steamer, after taking on board five hundred more Chinese steerage
passengers at Honolulu, turns her bow toward the Land of the Rising Sun ; and as
she glides through the placid blue waters of the Pacific, the flower and fruit-covered
plains are lost to our view, and from far out at sea the peaks of Oahu can be seen
through our marine glass, pointing their spires toward a sky that bends brightly
over this gem of the ocean.

CHAPTER 11.

LAND OF THE SUNRISE.

we sailed due West over the Pacific one hour was lost in each
thousand miles of progress, and when we reached the half-
way point around the world from Greenwich (i8o°) a da}-
r '>^i i"&-~fr ~ii p "^^'as dropped in mid-ocean. In passing from November 2 to
y'y^.\/JJ \A \.J^ November 4, or from Saturday to Monday, was quite a new

experience. An officer on board tells me that he spent
two Christmases last 3'ear while coming from Japan to San
Francisco, and a fellow-passenger had the unique experience
of having two birthdays during his vo3'age in the same direction. In coming
m)' direction one stands the chance of having no Christmas and no birthday.

Yeddo Bay and Yokohama.

Early on the morning of November 10 I looked from my port window upon
the beautiful Yeddo Bay, and as we crept slowly into the harbor of Yokohama a
welcome sight greeted our eyes after nearly three weeks at sea. Hundreds of
Japanese sloops and sampans darted in and out among the American, English,
French, Russian and Japanese ships; men-of-war belonging to the five leading
nations of the world were anchored near at hand; the low-roofed houses of Yoko-
hama lay to our left, and before us loomed up the snow-capped and sunlit Fuji-
yama. Our steamer anchored half a mile of¥ shore and from a small steam tug
we soon stepped on the Land of the Sunrise.

In the year 1854, when Commodore Perry reached Yokohama with his little
fleet of men-of-war, it was only a small fishing village, but now it has a popula-
tion of 170,000. The native and business part of the city is backed by a half
moon of well-wooded hills, where the foreign concession is located and where
handsome houses, in European style, are built on what is known as the Bluff.

Strange Street Scenes.

As we dash through the city in a jinrikasha new scenes open before us at
every turn of the narrow streets. Men drawing vehicles like horses between the
shafts; the half-nude coolies carrying heav\' loads of merchandise, swung from
their shoulders upon stout bamboo poles; the simple architecture of the dwelling-
houses; the extremely deliberate and solemn salutations between the common

(48)

WITH EYEvS WIDI-: OPEN.

49

people who meet on the streets; fantastic trading-booths and the brilliant display
of toys and trinkets that fill them; the happy children flying kites, in the shape
of hideous faces; the absence of beggars on the streets (quite a contrast to Euro-
pean and many American cities), and the general appearance of thrift, cleanliness
and contentment that presented itself, made impressions rather pleasing than
otherwise. The women carry
their children lashed to their
backs like the American Ii:-
dians, and the exposure of the
tender eyes to the sunlight
may account, partly, for the
numerous cases of sore eyes
and blindness in Japan.

A Tokio Chrysanthemum Show.

The winter sleep of the
flowers is ver}- short, and al-
though we are writing in No-
vember I can walk in a gar-
den ten yards from m\- room
and gather a bouquet of flow-
ers that would astonish any
florist in Florida or California.

During this month the
chrj'santhemum is in all of
its glory. I spent several
hours at the chrysanthemum
show in Tokio; and, doubt-
less, in all the world it would
b e i m p o s s i b 1 e t o w it n e s s
another such exhibition of
this particular flower. Dra-
matic and comical perform-
ances, war scenes, historical
epochs and landscapes are set
forth by these flowers, woven

into designs, and the effect is remarkably fine. As might have been expected,
the victorious battles in the China -Japanese war were favorite subjects, and in
every in.stance a single Japanese was putting to flight a half a dozen members of
tJie Celestial Empire. In one blood-thirsty scene the sweet flower was made to

4

I^ARORKR OF THE COOI.KV CLASS.

50

AROUND THE WORLD

depict a Japanese warrior holding a Chinaman's pigtail in one hand, while with
the other he was about to behead him. In the Yokohama nursery I visited
packing-rooms containing forty thousand cases of bulbs of different plants to be
shipped to Europe and America.

In Fairyland.

A ride in a j inrikasha through the country gives one a great pleasure. Every -
thing seems delicate, diminutive and fairy-like. The small rice and teafields,

GAMBLING IN J.\1'AN.

the tiny plots of ground around the low-thatched houses and the groves of dwarfed
trees seem to correspond fittingly with the little people of this "Land of the Sun-
rise. " As just now they are attracting the attention of the civilized world and
as they are destined to become a potent factor in the future history of the Orient,
it may be well to give a brief synopsis of their history and a glimpse into their
social life.

The history of Japan naturally falls into four great periods. The first three
comprise the history of Old Japan and the last one that of New Japan. Four

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

51

great waves of foreign influence have swept over the country. The first two
oriental, the last two occidental in character. During the first period (660 B. C-
700 A. D. ) emperors held supreme political and spiritual power.

Introduction of Buddhism.

Two important events mark this period. In the 3'ear 286 A. D. Chinese
literature, art and science and Confucius philosophy were introduced. In the
year 558 A. D. Buddhism was first proclaimed. It required a thousand years for

BUDDHIST TEMPI,E, NIKKO, JAPAN.

this system to become firmly established, but its victory was finally complete. It
had transformed the nation. In the words of Professor Chamberlain, "Bud-
dhism introduced art, science, medicine, moulded the folk lore, created dramatic
poetry and greatly influenced every department of social and intellectual life.
In a word, Buddhism was the tutor under whose instruction the Japanese
grew up. ' '

It reached its golden age in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, when it
embraced the mass of the people and the land was filler! with splendid temples
and monasteries.

52

AROUND THE WORLD

The second period (,700 A. D.-iioo A. D, ) is marked by the rise of the
Fujivvara family. This was a literary family, which had gradually gained
supreme power over the nation. From this time one family after another held
political power, and the Emperor was merely the nominal head of the nation until
the restoration of 1S67.

Rise of the Military Power.

During the third period (1100 A. D.-1853), i'l 1141. Yoritomo Minamoto
consolidated the feudal system and became the first Shogun or Tycoon. The life
of this great man marks a brilliant period in Japanese history.

INTERIOR BUDDHIST TEMPI,E, JAPAN.

In the 3-ear 1549 Catholic mission work was introduced by Francis Xavier,
bringing in the first wave of influence from the Occident. In the latter part of
the sixteenth centurj^ three influential characters arose, each b}^ his lifework to
leave a lasting impression upon the history of the nation. OtaNobunaga laid
plans for the consolidation of the whole of Japan under one ruler, for up to this
time the conquest of Japan had only been partial, but just on the eve of the

WITH FvYKS WIDE OPEN.

53

accomplishment of his purpose.^ he was slain. Hideyosh, a great warrior and
statesman, carried to completion the work so well begun, but a greater than he
was to enjoy the full fruit of his labors. Tokiigawa lyeyasu, the greatest man in
Japanese history, was the first to rule over the entire empire. He founded the
City of Tokio, making it the capital of the Shogunate, framed many wise laws
and. fostered art, science and literature. Under him the feudal system reached
the zenith of its glory and power. The one blot upon his fame was the persecu-
tion of Catholics, the expulsion of foreigners and tlie closing of the country to

MUSIC IN The home, japats-.

the outside world. His death, in 1616, closed this important period as far as
any great event of any national importance is concerned.

The fourth period of Japan's history' ( 1858-1895) is contemporaneous with
the force wave of foreign influence. It is marked by the coming of Perry, the
destruction of the feudal system, the restoration of the Emperor and the ascen-
sion to the throne of the present Emperor, Mitsuhito, in 1867. Protestant mis-
sions began in 1859 and the first church was formed in 1872. The transformation
of the country is remarkable and every year witnesses new evidences of pro-
gressive life.

54

AROUND THE WORLD

Japanese Social Life.

One of the first lessons that is taught a Japanese girl is that she is inferior
to a boy, and this early lesson is impressed ceaselessly upon her during her life.

The boy calls his sis-
ter by her name, but
she must call him
"Ani San" (dear
brother), being a less
familiar term than his
name. Quite com-
monly the brother
eats with the father,
and after waiting ou
them she eats with
her mother. It is-
commonly understood
that it is not the
proper thing for a girl
to play even with her
brother after she is
ten years old, and thus
a wall separates the
sexes in the same
family.

Courting is an.
unknown science in
Japan. The "Nako-
do, " or go-between, is
not only a match
maker, but arranges
all the preliminary
details to the hour of
marriage. A father
comes to the conclu-
sion that it is time
that his daughter
should marry. Without speaking with her on the subject, he consults a friend,
and arrangements are made to find a suitable life partner for her. Now the "go-
between' ' takes the whole matter in hand, and, as he expects to be well paid for his
trouble finally, he becomes a very bu.sy penson indeed. This official, with the

HAIR ARRANGED BY UNMARRIED WOMAN, JAPAN.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

consent of the fathers of the intended groom and bride, may arrange for a niiyai
(look-at-each-other meeting) before the marriage, but frequently the young
people never see each other until the moment of marriage. But after the union
this important char-
acter, whose services
we have explained,
has not ceased his du-
ties. If, unfortu-
nately, there should
occur such an uncom-
mon thing as a family
quarrel the go-be-
tween is called in and
brings about a final
settlement by putting
them on good terms
or arranges for a per-
manent separation.

When a woman
is married two solemn
duties immediately
are laid upon her. In
certain parts of Japan
she must shave off her
eyebrows and blacken
her teeth. B5' these
beautiful perform-
ances she brands her-
self with the informa-
tion, "I am a married
woman. Take care
not to fall in love with
me." The arrange-
ment of the hair also
indicates whether a
woman is married or
unmarried. It is the

FOUR JAPANESE LADIES.

duty of the mother to give parting instructions to her daughter as she enters
into this slavery of marriage. This is done by impressing upon her the following
rules of conduct: (i) When you marry you are legally my daughter no longer.

56

AROUND THIi WORLD

so give the same perfect obedience to ^oiir father-in-law and mother-in-law that
you have given to )'our father and mother. (2) When you are married you have
no other lord than \-onr husband. Be humble, be polite. Perfect obedience to

the h u s b a n d is a
noble virtue for the
wife. (3) Be kind
always to ^our moth-
er-in-law and sister-
in-law. (4) Don't be
jealous. That is not
the way to win your
husband's affections.
(5) Even where there
is injustice on the hus-
band's part do not be
angry. Be patient,
and when he is quiet,
then advise with
him. (6) Don't talk
much. Don't tell
another person mis-
chief. Don't in any
case tell a lie. (7) Get
up early, stay up late
at night and do not
take a nap in the day-
time. Don't drink
much wine, and do not
go into a crowd until
you are fifty -one years
old. (8) Do not ask a
fortime-teller what
your future destiny
will be. (9) B e a
good housekeeper ; be
economical in c\-erv-

JAPANESE BELI^KS. t^iug. (lo) ThoUgh

you are married young, do not associate with young men, even if they are rela-
tives (11) Don't wear a gay dress; be clean always. (12I Don't be proud of
your father's pro.sperity or position; do not boast of them before vour husband's

WITH EYEvS WIDE OPEN.

57

relatives. (13) Be careful how you treat the men-servants or ma id -servants.
The bride vows that she will keep all of these rules, and if she fails to do so, she
has become false to her marriage vows. The wedding ceremony takes place in
the home of the bridegroom, where the largest room is decorated for the occasion.
The bride, in her long-sleeved and elaborately made furisode, and the groom, with
his silk kamishimo, accompanied by a small bridal party, take their seats in the
bridal room. A table is placed in front of the !)ride, and upon it are three-
sized cups filled with "sake" or Japanese wine. The bride takes three sips

WEDDING PROCESSION, JAPAN.

from each, and at her invitation the groom does the same. This indicates that
they will share each other's joys and sorrows, and after the announcement of the
marriage by the "go-between" to the parents the ceremou}' is completed.

As a rule the completion of this form is the beginning of a life for the poor
little woman that has for her very few rays of sunshine. She is the mistress
rather than the queen of the home, and her chief care is to look after the comfort
and pleasure of the man, who too often is cruel and overbearing.

5«

AROUND THE WORLD

Causes for Divorce.

There are seven recognized causes for divorce in Japan: (i) Disobedience;
(2)nochild; (3) adultery ; (4) jealousy; (5} loathsome disease; (6) talking too
much; (7) stealing. Indeed, the husband for the most trivial cause can secure a
separation from his wife. No court is needed. The ever-read)- "go-between"
is told of his desires, and, with more speed than he arranged the union, this
all-important personage brings about the disunion. The first boy is often called
"Ichiro," meaning "first one;" the next "Niro," "second one;" the third

"Saburo, " and so on,
according to their
numbers. The girls
are generally given
fanciful names, such
as "Flower," "Glo-
ry" and the like. If
their lives were as
bright and beautiful
as their names, the
Japanese home life
would be a charm in-
stead of a curse, as
too often it is.

Japanese Society.

Japanese society-
is divided into three
classes — the nobility,
gentry and common
people. The latter
(lass constitute nine-
ly-five per cent of the
entire population. We
find nothing like the
"caste" feeling that
exists in India domi-
nant in Japan, and
although divisions are
recognized they are
more flexible indeed
jAPANi.SE GxRi<s CARRYING babiks. thau iu Euglaud.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

59

Nothing has developed more quickly than the educational life of this people.
During the middle ages education was entirely in the hands of Buddhist priests
and the temples were the .schools for the people. When the Tokugawa family
came into power and for over two hundred and fifty years (A. D. 1603-1867) the
educated classes came under the influence of Confucianism, and the "four books"
and "five canons, ' ' composing the Confucian classics, became the literary and edu-
cational basis of the people. These were studied as thoroughly as in China itself.

Education.

Since the revolution of 1868 an entirely new state of affairs has exi.sted, and
the reform lias been carried on largely under American influences. It would

.\T SCHOOL, JAPAN.

surprise one who has not kept abreast of the educational progress of Japan to
visit the Imperial University at Tokio and note its complete appointments.
There are six distinct faculties, namely, law, literature, science, engineering,
medicine and agriculture; and more than one thousand students were at the
university, according to the la.st catalogue that is before me. The normal
schools, commercial school, technical school, noblees' school, naval and military
academies, musical academy, fine art school, blind and dumb school and five
higher middle schools were founded and are supported by the government.

6o

AROUND THE WORLD

The desire is quite manifest in all of these educational improvements to
assimilate the national thought to that of Western nations. It was my pleasure
to address, through an interpreter, a school of young men in Tokio this week on

the "Need of Edu-
cated Men in Japan,"
and during the ad-
dress it was gratifying
to mark the intelligent
attention given to the
words spoken and the
seemingly hearty ap-
pro \- a 1 of certain
American methods of
education that were
urged for adoption.
The Japanese as a stu-
dent is differential,
industrious, and es-
pecialh' quick to ab-
sorb new ideas. He is
naturally self-confi-
dent, and consequently
self-conceited; but
this, let it be hoped,
will pass away when
more progress has
been made by him.
His artistic percep-
tions are remarkable.

National Art.

In the fifteenth
century Italian paint-
ing was at its zenith
and Japanese art en-
tered upon its most
glorious period, but
we have no facts to prove that there was any influence of the one on the other.
The founder of the first school of Japanese art was a Buddhist priest, and not
seldom since have these representatives of the popular religion been found fostering

JAPANESE ACTRESS.

62

AROUND THE WORLD

and encouraging, in many ways, the artistic in different directions. The bold
dash that is observed in all Japanese paintings is due probably to the national
habit ot writing and drawing from the elbow, not from the wrist. The laws of
perspective and of light and shadow are disregarded to an alarming extent,
although the main study in the picture may be exact and faultless in detail. The
Japanese artist will give you a tree which is excellent in every detail, but he
will accompany it by certain atmospheric and topographical peculiarities which
defy the wildest and most eccentric imagination. He does not believe that

JAPANESE CARRIAGE.

mechanical symmetry makes for beauty, and, to some extent, he has revolution-
ized art by teaching the artistic world the charm of irregularity.

Its Eccentricities.

In the decorative art the Japanese may be said to lead the world in certain
respects, but in this special work their art breaks every rule of the recognized
schools. Who would look on that teapot for perspective art? Yet all of your
fine masters cannot produce such a fine work as that. What many of the Euro-
pean artists laughed at, not long since, they are trying in vain now to imitate.

The art of Cloisonne is seen to perfection in Japan. A thin network of cop-
per or brass is soldered to a foundation.of solid metal, and the cells of the network

WITH EYKS WIDE OPEN. 63

— the cloisons, as they are called — are filled in with enamel paste of various
colors. By baking, rubbing and polishing the surface becomes perfectly hard
and smooth.

Means of Transport.

The jinrikisha (meaning "man-power vehicle" ) is an institution of the land,
and, literally, it is the pull-man-car of Japan. The story goes that an American
missionary by the name of Goble, desiring with his good wife to accomplish cer-

JINRIKISHA.

tain missionary work, and finding it hard to find conveyances through the rural
districts, fell upon the invention of this two-wheel vehicle, to be drawn by a single
man. The invention immediately became popular, and in 1891 there were
thirty-eight thousand jinrikishas in use alone in Tokio. The ports of China
and Malay have the craze, and the thousands of coolies find emplox-ment, while
the residents, with more coins, are made comfortable by them. As the total cost
of the outfit of a jinrikishaman, coat, tight pants, hat and lantern, is only $4.00.

64

AROUND THK WORLD

and he gets ten or fifteen cents for a pull of two miles, it can be made quite a
paying business by a stout oriental.

The Press.

One who has had an American paper placed on his breakfast table for
years is somewhat amused when he picks up a Japan daily. But considering
the fact that Mr. John Black founded Japanese journalism in 1872, connnendable
progress has been made. Four years ago there were six hundred and fifty-eight

IN THE HOMK, JAPAN.

newspapers, magazines, journals of different kinds published in the empire.
Newspapers, like books, are written in the "written language," which is quite
different in grammar and vocabulary from the colloquial language.

The press laws in Japan are very rigorous. Article XIX of the newspaper
regulations reads thus: "When a new.spaper has printed matter which is consid-
ered prejudicial to public order or subversive of public morality, the minister of
state for the interior is empowered to suspend its publication, either totalh' or
temporarily." During the month following the proclamation of the constitution
the brethren of the press expressed themselves rather freely, and newspapers were
suspended at the rate of two a Vv^eek. What a blessing to a long-suffering public
in America if there could be a few suspensions of this kind!

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.
Railroads.

65

The first railroad built in Japan was eighteen miles in length and connected
Yokohama and Tokio. This was opened in 1872. On account of the moun-
tainous character of the country and the sudden swelling of the streams, Japan is
not adapted for railroad construction, but, despite these disadvantages, this
improvement has steadily gone on, and now the total mileage is over two thou-
sand. Although this enterprise was begun by the government, railroads are not
exclusively owned by the power at Tokio. The railways are narrow gauge and

JAPANESE DOMESTICS.

the rates are only about one cent a mile. The telegraph wire follows the rail-
road everywhere through the empire, and often it stretches over the mountains
where the trains of cars are not seen. Messages are written and transmitted
in the vernacular, and ten"kana" characters can be sent to any part of the
empire for fifteen cents. Perhaps when Japan becomes more civilized she will put
her railroads and telegraph system into the hands of noble-hearted monopolies,
and then the dear people will pay three cents to ride a mile and five cents to tele-
graph a word !
5

66

AROUND THE WORLD
Funeral of a Prince.

On the day of our arrival in Tokio, the national capital, the funeral of
Prince Kitashirakawa, the uncle of the Emperor, took place. The Prince, it
seems, had distinguished himself in bringing under Japanese power the undis-
ciplined and demoralized Chinese of Formosa, and because of this and his near
relationship to the ruler of the land, he was honored in life and death.

The Official Gazette published in detail the order of the funeral cortege, of
the march and of the last obsequies at the temple, and these were carried out in

ENTRANCE TO JAPANESE TEMPI,E.

strict adherence to the royal program. Two hours before the procession moved
ceremonies began at the residence, and then the train, headed by the First and
Third Regiments of the Imperial Guard, with arms reversed and two companies
on foot, moved through the gates.

The Procession.

On reaching the street the order of the cortege was as follows: The herald,
mounted police, inspectors, military band, detachments of the regiment of the

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

67

Imperial Guards, ten banners carried by white-robed bearers, a Shinto priest, and
ornamental box containing offerings, borne by four persons clad in white; Shinto
priests, clothed in ceremonial dress; the rain coat of the prince, carried bj^ bearers
in white; mounted Shinto priests, chief priest in carriage, priestly musicians in
ceremonial garb, growing Sakiki trees, presented by the imperial family, borne
by special messengers from the palace ; forty stands of flowers, huge in size and
brilliant in color; decorations of the deceased prince, borne on cushions by
officers of the prince's household ; the sarcophagus of snow-white pine, borne by

ENXRANCK TO SHHBA Tr-:MPI.E, TOKIO.

sixteen wrestlers, who had followed the forces to Formosa ; seventy hakucho in
attendance, wounded military officers who had come back from Formosa with the
deceased prince, the princely bodyguard of ten soldiers in the frayed and travel-
stained garments worn during the campaign in Formosa, imperial bodyguards,
retainers of the late prince's household leading the prince's favorite horses; the
prince's foreign and Japanese swords, borne by retainers; the prince's shoes,
carried by retainers; chief mourner, the prince's oldest son, dressed in coarse
mourning garb, straw-sandaled, on foot, followed by his two younger brothers;
chief steward of the prince, on foot; the prince's family in carriages, ministers

68

AROUND THE WORIvD

of state, dukes and marquises, officials of the second grade, holders of the highest
orders of decorations, nobles by creation, peers, members of the upper and lower
houses, mounted, armed and rear guard, chief inspector and police, mounted.

A Brilliant Cortege.

The procession, as may be imagined, was brilliant and of great length,
taking about two hours to pass a given point. Including soldiers, the train was
supposed to be composed of not less than twelve thousand persons, and it is
estimated that two hundred thousand Japanese and foreigners lined the route of

TEA DRINKING, JAPAN.

march. Government schools, national and private banks and governmental
departments were closed and a general holiday was observed.

The upper stories of buildings along the line of march were deserted, it
being an act of sacrilege in Japan to look down upon a procession in which there
are persons of exalted rank. When the temple grounds were reached the students
of the Nobles' School, the foreign consular body and the diplomatic corps were
given special places, and around the sarcophagus gathered the representatives of
the Kmperor and Empress and persons of high rank.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

69

The services were in accordance with the ceremonial of the Shinto sect,
A short eulogy was pronounced ; prayers were repeated ; offerings of rice, water,
saki and fruits were made before the sarcophagus, and a triple salvo of guns
announced that the last ro^^al rites were over.

Japan After Victory.

The world is congratulating Japan, and just now she is in high feather
among the nations. On the other hand, the stock of the people of the pigtail is
far below par, and her general condition is, at present, not very "celestial."

MOUNTAIN VILLAGE, JAPAN.

But Japan's congratulation should not be given to her so unreservedly, for
there is a loss and a gain, a tare and a tret to be taken into account.

What does she gain by her victory over China? She has accomplished
exploits, has developed unknown resources, has exposed the weakness and cor-
ruption of her sister empire, has brought herself forward as a military factor of
first-rate importance in the East, has acquired a commanding position in the
affairs of Corea, has had her treasury enriched by more than two hundred mil-
lions of taels of silver and has come into possession of the great and rich island
of Formosa. Of all these acquisitions the latter is by far the most substantial,
and doubtless it will add more than all others to the might and efficiency of Japan.

70 AROUND THE WORLD

This change of ownership is also most fortunate for Formosa. It will be devel-
oped better, and the two provinces of China, which lie just across the straits and
are closely connected in trade with Formosa, will be found sensitive to the
evolutionar}' and revolutionary forces.

Japan's Army and Navy.

The Japanese soldier has shown his metal and the staff scored high honors,
but at the same time the fighting qualities of the soldier or the capacity of officers
have not been very severely tested. If, instead of fancy, flaunting banners and
the fireworks of half-trained coolies, they had to stand before the deadly hail of
shrapnel and the crash of well-ordered volleys from disciplined troops, their equals
in bravery and patriotism, the result might not have been invariably one-sided.

Is Japan really better off now than before the war ? What does she propose to
do with her large indemnity? She has become tremendously ambitious, and now
she is determined to make herself a great military and naval power and to exert
a potent influence in the affairs of Asia. With the money paid her b}- China .she
is going to fortify her coast, buy more battleships and get ready for another
war that may grow out of the one that is just over. All the money received
from China will soon be spent in these preparations, and the costly navy and
the fortifications must be kept up.

Who is to pay for all of this? Japan is not a rich commercial nation like
England, with colonial possessions to draw on, and a heavy tax on her own peo-
ple, essential to military effectiveness, is apt to create grievous inward disturbance.

A Costly Prominence.

In other words, her victory has placed her in a position in the East that will
require her to spend large sums of money to maintain her prominence, and she
must necessarily be kept in constant anxiety for fear her people may be overbur-
dened in the maintenance of the army, navy and coast defences, and for fear that
the ever-watchful Russia may swallow the chestnut after Japan has cooked it.

Russia is noted for her dogged persistency of purpose, and she intends to
secure an opening to the unfrozen sea, if she has to fight for it. In order to
accomplish this, she cannot afford to allow Japan to gain any more power. Soon
after the fall of Port Arthur the Japanese army would have been in the capital
of China had not Russia, indirectly, changed the tide of affairs. In the settle-
ment of the Corean question Russia's fine hand was again seen, and many of the
intelligent Japanese think that Japan did the fighting and Russia is reaping the
fruits of the victory. A leading Japan paper last week contained this significant
paragraph : "Japan can supply the men and Great Britain the naval power, which
would more than balance the Russian ^nd French preponderance over Japan. ' '

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

71

But for Japan to become a party in European politics means more war, more
cost, more sacrifice and more national uneasiness. If she had kept at home and
devoted herself to the industrial development of her people, she would have no
apprehensions of a foreign war, and surely she has enough to keep her busy on
her own unique island. But she has taken the sword, and its blade may cut her
own throat before it is sheathed.

The Situation in China.

The late enemy of Japan presents an interesting study. To-day we find in
China the same elements at work which brought about in India the substitution

FRUIT MERCHANT, JAPAK.

of foreign for native rule. A tottering imperial autocracy, semi-independent
vice-royalties, an official class as corrupt, ignorant and self-seeking as anj' Indian
court could produce; great unpaid armies without leaders or discipline, such as
Clive and Wellesly so easily destroyed, and a people who do not know what
the word patriotism means, and who will sell themselves to the highest bidder.
If history repeats itself it takes no prophet or son of a prophet to foresee the
inevitable.

It is currently reported that the late financial commissioner at Canton
was appointed some time since by imperial edict on a special mission to convey

72 AROUND THE WORLD

to St. Petersburg a secret treaty between China and Russia, which concedes to
the latter the right to build railways through Manchuria and it also grants to
Russia other privileges of the kind, which proves beyond doubt the ten-
dency of China to accede to the wishes of a nation, into whose hands
she seems quite willing, practically, to place herself during the misfortunes
that now overshadow her. The fact that China reserves the right to pur-
chase from Russia these railroads in twenty years only proves that her star
of hope is still twinkling, however dimly, in the distant sky. All these things
are hastening forward the time when the much-talked-of Chinese wall will
entirely crumble before the influences from without, and when a nation of
400,000,000 population will be permeated, let us hope, by the golden light of a
new national life.

Japan'5 New Attitude.

The remarkable progress of Japan during the last score of years, in moral
and intellectual, as well as material affairs, gave rise to high hopes that the
Gospel of Christ, as well as forms of Western civilization, would triumph in the
Mikado's empire. But the recent turn of affairs seem, for a while at least, to
check this advancement. The ascendency of the Samurai, which is the revival
of the old-time feudal aristocracy, means that our Western merchant and mis-
sionary must contend against an ancient conservatism, which was a blight upon
Japan for so many years. The fact that there are sixty thousand Protestant
converts in the country is an evidence that Christianity has made gratifying
progress; but as the Samurai, lately come to power, emphasize the divine origin
of the Emperor, it can readily be seen that the advance of the Bible means the
decay of this nation ; hence we have here a partial explanation of the new
attitude toward foreigners, and especially missionaries. Again, successes in sev-
eral directions, of late, have increased the conceit of the little man of the Sunrise
Kingdom; and in more than one quarter of Japan the converts to Christianity
are reported as exclaiming to their fathers in the Gospel: "We have no. need of
you any longer. We know how to preach and teach Christianity; provide us
with money and you can go back home;" and a native paper suggests the intro-
duction of a new Christianity, founded upon conditions existing among the
Japanese. In every part of the empire the missionaries of the Cross are laboring
prudently and untiringly against these obstacles, and we have faith that the Truth
will eventually prevail.

CHAPTER III.

THE INTERIOR OF JAPAN.

FORTNIGHT'S study of the interior of Japan brings before

us many features of life that are characteristic of this

people. In the little coaches of the railroad train or behind

the trotting jinrikasha man we pass thousands of acres laid

off in tiny squares with all the precision and regularity of

flower-garden beds.

The glory of the harvest time has come; the sheaves of rice
are bound most artistically about the trunks of the trees or around
great uplifted and stationary bamboo poles; the peasants, male
and female, are busy gathering the last of the ripened grain ; the lazy hump-back
cow or ox creeps along nearly wholly covered by his great burden; the farm vil-
lages, with low roofs of thatched rice straw, appear in the distance, and from
trees, housetops and poles are fljnng bright-colored flags, for it is the beginning
of the harvest festival, when the gods are eating new rice.

An Industrious People.

There is no people more industrious than the Japanese. This is true of the
man and woman, the young and the old. Whether you look into the tiny shops
that open into the street, or study the moving mass of coolies along the sea or
river fronts, or watch the active crowds on the streets, or visit the rural districts,
you are impressed by this fact. This industry is combined with a perfection in
detail of their work that is remarkable.

I know of no nation that does better work on small surfaces, that can accom-
plish more with raw materials, and that accomplish as much with as rough tools

as the Japanese.

Farming.

It is a marvel to see what they accomplish in the line of agriculture with so
manj' odds against them. Along the steep slopes of the mountain side, in the
patches of earth between great boulders of rock, in the naturally barren plains,
made fertile b}^ a perfect system of irrigation, 3'ou find fine illustrations of the
farming art. All farmers in Japan live in villages, and each village is presided
over b)' a headman, who settles all trouble among the farmers and who is the
supreme local authority.

(73)

74

AROUND THE WORLD

The government land tax is 2^^ per cent of the land value, to which is
added the ken or district tax, which makes the total from 3 to 5 per cent. After
bad harvests it has been found impossible for the peasants to pay this tax, and
not seldom has there been great dissatisfaction among this class, bordering, some
years since, on insurrection.

Rice, wheat, barley, millet, guinea corn, maize and many varieties of vege-
tables are abundant in good seasons, and the small orange and large persimmon
are found on the breakfast and dinner table table nearly the year round.

RICE PLANTING, JAPAN.

More and more attention is being given to the cultivation of the camphor
tree, and this useful drug is quite a source of revenue.

Silk Culture.

Silk culture has made Japan famous, and hundreds of thousands of her citi-
zens are employed in preparing this article for the European market.

The silk, as is well known, originates in the cocoons, a pupa covering of a
group of worms which are called spinners. The mulberry spinner is the best
known and most important of all of these. They differ from one another in all

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

75

their stages of development — as eggs, caterpillars, cocoons and butterflies — espe-
cially as to size and form of caterpillars and color of cocoons.

As the eggs have very fragile shells, the butterflies are made to deposit them
on boards made of bast paper. These stick fast, and from them the young grubs
creep out on the cardboard. After the third casting the peculiar character of the
grub appears— yellow eyes, with black arches and dark sickles or half-moons on
the back. Until the second or third casting they must be fed with chopped mul-

WORKING WITH SILK WEAVERS, JAPAW.

berry leaves, which must be frequently given them, while thej' are kept in
clean, dry rooms, well ventilated.

Before the silk-worm begins to spin it loses its appetite, crawls about rest-
lessly and becomes translucent. But the internal change is even greater. The
two spinning glands become filled with transparent, thick, fluid silk stuff, which
comes forth from them when the worm begins to spin through the spinnin^^
teats in its head, stiffening in two separate threads and become cemented in a
double thread. After two or three days the worm changes into a chr5'salis. First

76

AROUND THE WORLD

it makes a loose case, and then, supported by this, the body gets gradually
smaller, forming the cocoon. This consists of a thread from 400 to 500 metres
long and becoming thinner and weaker toward the centre.

I am told upon close examination with a magnifying glass a cross section of
a cocoon wall shows five to ten layers of silk formed by the caterpillar in contin-
uous backward turns, one on another. A week or ten days after the caterpillars

STREET SCENE IN YOKOHAMA, JAPAN.

have spun, the cocoons are taken from their resting-places and separated from the
floss silk that surrounds them.

Lacquer Industry.

In the thatch-roofed huts of the peasants among the mountains beyond Nikko
and in the magnificent palace of the Mikado at Kioto I saw exquisite lacquer-
work. This is found everywhere. While I write there is before me an "Autum-
nal Landscape by Moonlight," in lacquer-work, which shows ten or twelve shades
of color, and which is quite artistic in design.

The material of the industry is the sap of the lac tree, cultivated in Japan
and China. The extraction of the lac is done by making a horizontal slit upon
the tree during the season from April to October. The autumn product is less

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

77

watery and more valuable. The scratching-sickle, a thin iron plate, bent like a
fishhook, and a flat iron spoon with a short, bent-over point, are the instruments
used in obtaining it. The first is used to cut the tree and the other for scraping
out the channels when full of lac and lifting it into the small wooden or bamboo
pail.

The raw material is purified from foreign substances by being pressed
through cotton cloth and hemp linen, and afterward it passes through a process
of evaporation in the sun or by means of a mild heat over a roal fire. The laying

JAPAN FAN DEADER.

on of the coatings requires the greatest care, and is gone over crosswise with the
brush, first in one direction and then in another. After the groundwork is com-
pleted it is rubbed until a smooth surface of dark-gray becomes gray-black. On
small and large surfaces we find a great variety of patterns in lacquer- work, and
some of them are richly ornamental.

Castle by the Sea.

Through the kindly consideration of the United States Minister at Tokio
we were sent passports to the Mikado's palace at Kioto, the old capital of Japan,
and to the neighboring castle. The decorations in ivory, bronze, wood-carving,

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enamel, porcelain, wall-painting, embroiden- and inlaid metal-work give proof of
the highest genius in certain directions; and the throne-chair, inlaid with
mother-of-pearl, is a gem in art. I pushed aside the exquisite silk curtains of
his Majesty's bed and looked upon the spot where, last fall, he rested his uneasy
head while in Kioto.

From Kobe to Moji we sailed two hundred and fifty miles through the entire
length of the famous Inland sea. By many this is regarded as the most beautiful
water in the world, and surely it is hard to imagine anything more enchanting.

INLAND SEA, JAPAN.

Our boat winds about island after island, passes through narrow passages of
water, overshadowed by great bluffs from the headland, and during every turn
of our noble steamer a new panorama of beauty opened before us. The daj^ was
bright and the night was lit by a full moon. The play of the moonlight on the
rippling face of the silver sea and the soft glow on the hundreds of islands in
the still night made me quite forget my cabin-room, and much of the night was
spent on the deck.

The entrance to the sea at Moji is guarded by fortifications that line the
summits of the hills, and the full supply of cannon, occupying either side of the

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

79

strait, would doubtless prove to be au impressive argument to an incoming
enemy.

It was just here, in the town of Bakan (Shimonoseki on foreign maps), that
the Chinese Viceroy, Li Hung Chang, "the Napoleon of the East," as General
Grant called him, met
the representatives of the
Mikado, and I saw where
he was shot while riding
through one of the nar-
row streets of the village.
This murderous act of a
Japanese crank cost
Japan dearly, but as cap-
ital punishment is not
tolerated in the land, the
criminal was only sent
to prison.

In a Japanese Hotel.

At Kokura we had
the new and, it is to hv
hoped, never- to-be-re-
peated experience of
spending the night in a
Japanese hotel, pure and
simple. This was done
at the urgent solicitation
of two friends, whom wc
are trying hard to for-
give. On entering we
left our shoes at the door
and were supplied with
cloth slippers.

While our Japanese
supper was in process of
preparation we sat on the floor around a hibachi (fire jar), where a little charcoal
fire was burning beneath our teapot. The Japanese maids soon appeared with the
fish, rice, eggs and certain dishes that we took on blind faith, and our performance
with chop-sticks was as amusing as it was deliberate. A full bill of fare was
served, and we were obliged, despite hints and jokes to the contrary, to taste

FAVORITE GAMK WITH JAPANESE GIRtS.

8o

AROUND THE WORLD

everj'thing, from the soup (an unknown quality— not quantity, thanks!) to the
pickles, which defied analysis. At ten o'clock, after spending hours in a sitting
posture, four futons or thick comforts were spread on the floor, at the head of
which were placed white brick-bats for pillows, and we rolled in, or rather on.
No wonder that Jacob dreamed under the circumstances. I dreamed, too, but my
dreams were by no means heavenly. Far in the night, when the novelty and
romance of the performance had long passed away, I quietly hopped over my
tossing comrades, and securing my overcoat, wTapped my brick pillow in it, and
the plane of my dreams arose to the level of the earth.

AT NIKKO, JAPAN.

They say that the Japanese sit up late. In doing so thej^ manifest excellent
judgment and common sense and prove that they are not fond of self-sacrifice.

Japanese Scenery.

One must not come to Japan and fail to make an excursion inland of a hun-
dred miles from Yokohama, with Nikko as the objective point.

From the moment you leave the crowded station of the city on the sea until
you look upon the little village that nestles at the foot of the most picturesque
mountains of Japan one scene of beauty and interest after another comes into view.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

8i

Although you may have au interesting novel on your lap, very few of its
pages are read, for now the steep steps to a Shinto shrine attracts your attention;
now a great Buddhist temple appears in a neighboring grove; now a gaudy
funeral procession passes by ; now 5'our train is dashing along the outskirts of a
straw-built Japanese village; now a group of rustic men and women, wearing
loose upper garments and coarse blue tights, pause in the midst of their farm
work, and gaze with wide-open eyes at the moving coaches; now you are passing
through a bamboo grove ; now you are attracted by a group of women and girls

WORK ON TEMPI.E, JAPAN.

attending to the silk-worms or spinning the silk and winding the thread ; now
you are watching the crude process of grinding the grain between great flat rocks,
or beating the straw with rods; and thus, although your train has made only
twenty miles an hour, the trip seems too short when the conductor unlocks your
coach-door and cries out "Nikko. "

Sacred Shrines and Legends.

Nikko is especially noted for its temple.^ which for their architecture, size
and costliness, are as remarkable as any in Japan. Millions of dollars have been
spent in these buildings, and the curious ornamental work, the hideously
6

Si

AROUND THE WORLD

grotesque idols in bronze, the elaborate wood -carvings of vines, flowers, birds
and beasts display the talent as well as the superstition of the people.

The front of one building is ornamented by the figures of three monkeys;
one with his hands over his eyes, that he may see nothing bad; another covering
his mouth, that he may say nothing that is wrong, and the third holding his ears,
that he ma}- hear nothing that may offend his monkeyship. At the entrance of
these temples are great brass gongs, and above them hang metallic hammers
with ropes attached.

When petitions are to be offered most unearthly noises are made to awake
and attract tlie attention of the Deit}^ ! No amount of clatter, however, is sup-

HOLY HORSE BEFORE BUDDHIST TEMPLE, NIKKO, JAPAN.

posed to arrest the attention of the god until the worshiper casts into the open
box within the door his contribution of money.

There is an interesting legend, reminding us of a certain classic fable, that
is associated with the carvings on these temples. The story goes that this won-
derful work was done by a left-handed dwarf, and while he was ornamenting the

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 83

temples he fell in love with a beautiful girl of Nikko, who spurned his addresses
ou account of his deformity of person. She was unyielding, despite the evidences
of his genius and his tender pleadings; and, at last, nearly heart-broken, he
returned to his native city, Tokio, where he carved an image of his loved one,
which was so perfect that the gods endowed it with life, and the artist lived with
it, as his wife, all during his life in the enjoyment of the greatest happiness.

Hountains and Honkeys.

Early in the morning we engaged jinrikishas, and, with two men to each
vehicle, we passed out of the village on a narrow road, with a dashing mountain
stream on one side and the precipitous heights on the other. For eight miles we
ascended the steep and circuitous path, stopping now and then to refresh our-
selves at a tea-house or to admire the mountain panorama.

We paused for quite a while before a cataract, whose waters fell nearly a
thousand feet from the bluff to the echoing chasm beneath, and watched the great
volume of water until it passed into a cloud}' spray in its great leap.

xVt one time as we looked out from a bench before a tea-house, we could see
three heights of mountain peaks, rising one above the other, and down the valley
gorges before us three plunging streams foamed over the great boulders of rock,
turning in their excited rage into pale, quivering waterfalls as they threw them-
selves recklessly against the sides of the mountain into the valle}- below !

Suddenly one of my jinrikisha men exclaimed in English that was more
euphonious than classic, "Moonkee," and there before us were six or seven of
these comical little creatures as self-satisfied as any other Japanese could possibly
be. Whenever I look a monkey in the face I think of the words of a certain
American professor, who, while lecturing on evolution, seeing that the class was
inattentive to his words, exclaimed, "Gentlemen, while I am discussing the
monkey I desire you to look me right straight in the face!"

One of Japan's Five Wonders.

The object of our mountain trip was a visit to the celebrated Chuzen-ji Lake,
which is one of the five wonders of Japan.

Before reaching the mountain top our path for a mile or two lay through
snow several inches in depth, and as we made a sharp turn there lay before us
the rippling face of this beautiful sheet of water, thousands of feet above the
village we had left some hours before.

No word, no brush, can describe or paint this transparent body of water,
lifted so near and reflecting so perfectly the deep-blue sky, and there seems to be
no satisfactory explanation of this strange phenomenon in nature — a lake filling
the empty cone of the mountain !

84

AROUND THE WORLD

In Virginia and in North Carolina we find similar sheets of water, but thej'
are not so elevated and picturesque as the Chuzen-ji.

Curious Contrasts.

I noticed on this trip, more than while I was nearer the coast, how com-
pletely the Japanese are our antipodes in many respects, and how opposite are
many of their methods and manners.

The few horses they have are stalled with their heads to the passageway,
and they are shod with close-braided rice-straw in the place of iron shoes. The

JAPAN LADY IN JINRIKISHA.

carpenters draw the plane toward them instead of pushing it from them, and the
tailor sews from him, not toward his bod}', holding the thread, not with his
fingers, but with his toes.

Smoke from our fireplaces escapes through the chimneys outside of the
house; smoke ascends from their brasiers inside of the room, finding its way out
at the doors and windows.

Leaving the train and boat in my tour southward it was a pleasant experience
to travel thirty miles a day in a comfortable jinrikisha, drawn by a muscular,

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 85

long-winded Japanese; and thus I was enabled personally to study the customs
and characteristics of the people living in the southern part of the country.

The Two=Legged Horse and Two=Wheeled Carriage.

As the jinrikisha is an institution of Japan, I may be allowed to speak more
particvilarly of it. It is estimated that more than one million of Japanese are
employed in the transportation of persons and commodities from place to place
in Japan ; and one-fourth of these pull the jinrikisha. The human horses who
dash along the streets of the cities and roads of the countrj-, pulling these two-
wheeled vehicles, form a profession within themselves; and as the result of
severe training from early youth, they are enabled to stand a strain on their
muscles that is marvelous. Ten years of this toil tell on the well-knit frame of
the little man; and his once strong, active form becomes bent, ill-shapen and
comparatively feeble. On one of my long journeys, the jinrikisha-man cast from
him every vestige of clothing except the breech-cloth ; and during the trip the
brave little two-legged horse trotted along at seven miles an hour, while the per-
spiration dropped from his brow and face, and stood in beads on his quivering,
naked back.

He lives largely upon rice, and consumes as much as a sho, or more
than a quart and a half during a day of excessive toil. It is painful to see an
old, nearly worn-out man with a mushroom hat, staggering along in his effort
to pull a double jinrikisha in which a whole family is seated. These human
pullers are generally divided into three classes: The Kaka^-e form the aristocracy
of the profession; they are well-dressed, well-fed and well-paid; and while on a
fast dash they enjoy practically the right of way. The Yadoguruma class have
their regular stands and regular customers; and the Tsujiguruma men are the
poorest and most miserable, corresponding to the pitiable "night hawks" of the
cab profession.

The cost of a new jinrikisha is about ten dollars; but for half of this
amount a good vehicle can be bought. The keeper of a stand takes 15 per
cent of the money made by the men under his emplo}-, and in addition, these
toilers must pay from one and a half to two yen (seventy-five cents to one dollar)
a month for the use of the carriage. The prices paid for jinrikisha rides var}-
according to the class of men you emploj-. First-class men, from eighteen to
thirt}' years of age, who are strong and swift, are paid four cents an hour; but
between the ages of thirty and fifty, they are not regarded as first-class, and are
paid from one and a half to three cents for the same time. Both the men and
vehicles undergo annual inspection by the police, and in 1895 about two thousand
jinrikishas and fifteen hundred jinrikisha-men were rejected in the city of Tokio.
Before the ride and during the ride the human horse in Japan is all smiles and

86 AROUND THE WORLD

bows; but when 5-011 descend from your seat then comes the tug-of— wages, it
matters little how distinct has been the previous agreement.

As the tourist travels through inland Japan he is impressed by the thick
settlement of the country. The rural districts are full of people; nearly every
woman has a baby lashed to her back, and the numerical increase seems far
greater than the increase of available wealth.

Instructive Statistics.

The government statistics show that while only between twelve and thirteen
millions of acres are under cultivation, over forty millions of natives live on these
islands, and a still stranger fact, there are 30,000,000 pounds of tea, 5,000,000
pounds of raw silk and 40,000,000 pounds of rice exported every year.

At the beginning of the year the population of Japan was as follows : Num-
ber of families, 7,883,369; individuals, 41,810,202; males, 21,121,398; females,
20,688,804. As compared with the previous year the figures show an increase of
24,872 families and 424,695 individuals. There were 1,208,918 births and 840,-
741 deaths during the year. The number of marriages was 351,146, that of
divorces being 112,362.

Considering the size and wealth of Japan and the available farm land, these
statistics present an interesting problem to the student as to the future of this,
in many respects, unique people. From the north we have, by means of train,
boat and jinrikisha, reached the southernmost point of the most southerly island
of the empire, and we are now writing in the saloon of the steamer ' 'Malacca,"
looking out upon the harbor of Nagasaki, one of the most important ports in
the East.

Noticing the number of persons wearing eyeglasses in Nagasaki, I made
mention of this fact to a resident of the place, who dryly replied: "Oh, yes; we
put green eyeglasses on goats and then feed them with shavings. They think
that thej' are eating grass!"

As the full moon rises over the crests of the mountains that form the back-
ground to the city, shooting its silver arrows through the narrow straits, and as
the rising tide lifts our leviathan of the deep, we sail past the lofty island of
Pappenburg, the Tarpeian Rock of the East, from whose heights Christians are
said to have been hurled during the seventeenth century, and turn our bow
toward the Celestial empire.

CHAPTER IV.
THE LAND OF THE PIG-TAIL.

On leaving Japan we decided to turn from the route usually taken by the
"globetrotter," and instead of sailing direct for Hong Kong, we took steamer
across the Yellow Sea, reaching the largest and most important city of Central
China after three days of delightful experience on the "Malacca."

Shanghai is located on the Whang-pu River, twelve miles from the Yangtzse
River and tliirty miles from the sea-coast. Before the coming of foreigners to
the city it was quite an insignificant place, but now it has a population of about
five hundred thousand, is in many respects the most protninent commercial city
of the empire, and is the fifth port in the world in importance.

As we neared the wharf the bund, stretching along the river front, presented
a lively appearance. Hundreds of Chinese coolies crowded as near the incoming
steamer as the batons of the English and Indian police allowed, filling the air
with their babble; through the wide, well-paved street before us moved a great
mass of people representing nearly ever\' nationality, some in handsome equipages,
some in the dashing jinrikishas, some in the bright-colored sedan chairs, borne
by two or four men, some in the square palanquin, some in the queer-looking
Chinese wheelbarrows and others moving on foot at a pace that would do honor
to the Chicago pedestrian, and across the wide bund were rows of business
houses as large and substantial in appearance as some of the business blocks on
lower Broadway, New York.

In Shanghai there are three foreign "Concessions," the English, the
American and the French, all of which are outside of the old city wall, and
present as striking contrast to the Chinese quarters as could well be imagined.
The English and American "Concessions" are governed by the same munici-
pality, the council is elected b}- rate-payers, and the police is composed of
Englishmen, Chinese and Sikhs from India. The French portion of the city,
extending nearly half way around the walls of the native city, is managed quite
differently from the others, and, indeed, is a little French republic within the

Chinese empire.

The Streets of Shanghai.

The city, inhabited only by Chinese, is surrounded by a great wall, and the
four entrances are called the North, South, East and West Gates, which are
closed early in the night until early in the morning and guarded all the time.

(87)

88

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Passing through the North Gate, we spent a portion of a day threading our way
through streets from four to ten feet wide, oftentimes hemmed in between the
moving masses of men, women, children and dogs, all equally respectable in
appearance, and all except the miserable-looking dogs making the place hideous
with their rasping, grating din and clatter. Here is the professional beggar,
caked in dirt and partly covered with what in their better days were rags, wal-
lowing in the filth of the street and with trembling hands and nodding head

WOMEN PRISONERS, SHANGHAI, CHINA.

pleading for "cash;" here are the juggler and the fortune-teller, plying their
trades before gaping crowds; here we enter the main business street, possibly ten
feet wide, where the purchasers stand outside of the shops, which are filled with
every conceivable article of merchandise in every conceivable state of confusion;
here the manufacturer of idols, surrounded by grinning and frowning images, is
trying to make one more hideous still to add to his stock of goods; here are a
dozen men, with long iron forks, turning the fire that crackles beneath great

<

c

<

X

V.

o

a:
«

r,

z

E

90

AROUND THE WORLD

copper bowls filled with boiling opium; here we pass into an opium den, where
scores of men are stretched upon double sofas inhaling the fatal drug, which
they put into their long pipes with large needles after melting it in small
flames that burn in oil lamps near by.

A Typical Tea Shop.

Here we pause in the door of a typical Chinese tea-shop, where men gather
to congratulate each other, to quarrel, to talk gossip, or to attend to business.

"X

\

THE GOLDEN ISLAND WITH UNFINISHED PAGODA NEAR CHIN KIANG.

Here we are quickly satisfied with a passing glimpse of a home-scene which is
too repulsive to dwell upon, as it was too sickening to look upon. Here we pass
the fish and fowl market, where the dealers' goods become more popular and
costly if they have age added to their other doubtful virtues, and at last, with a
sigh of grateful relief, we pass out of the West Gate and joyfully think of our
native land.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

91

When you consider the inexpressible filthiness of the native city of Shang-
hai, the wonder is that some terrible epidemic has not long since swept its
citizens out of existence. The municipal council attempted to persuade the
Chinese official in charge of the old city to allow them to put the filtered water
from the water-works throughout the city, but he replied that he preferred the
muddy water from the moat around the place because it had more body to it !

The tea-shop, mentioned above, is an important institution of China. It
serves as a news depot, where the people gather to hear the news of the day; as

THE ART OF PRINTING AS SEEN IN SHANGHAI, CHINA.

a business house, where men buy and sell and discuss the commercial interests
of the country ; and as a place of pleasure and general resort. If two men get
into a quarrel on the street, one is apt to drag the other to a tea-shop and drink
tea at his expense while they settle the matter between them. The stronger
does the dragging and the weaker does the treating.

The shop is a large '.opBn room located in a central and popular portion of the
city, and small square tablies and low, narrow benches constitute the furniture.
A covered cup containing a pinch of tea leaves is placed before each tea-drinker,

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AROUND THE WORLD

and it is filled and refilled with hot water as desired. A man may drink this
sugarless liquid all afternoon with his companion, and on settling the bill he
will find that he is only about two cents poorer.

I asked my Shanghai friend as we stood in one of these shops and listened to-
the discordant screams of the patrons of the institution what was the cause of
this confusion. "Each man wants more hot water," was his reply, as he pitied
my ignorance of the ways of polite society in these parts.

The Opium Trade.

You are not long upon the streets of a Chinese city before you detect in the
bleared eye and sallow features of the people, both male and female, the opium-
eating habit. The disgraceful trade, forced upoa
r ^ China by the English at the point of the bayonet,

, is increasing every year, and now forms the

heaviest item of import. How a nation can long^
exist and consume such quantities of this active
poison is a mystery. The opium is shipped from

India in the form
of balls, is dis-
solved in water
and boiled to a
paste prepara-
tory to immedi-
ate consumption.
Yesterday after-
noon a steamer
arrived at the
Shanghai port,
and among other
things it con-
tained, as reported in this morning's paper, were two missionaries and three
hundred and nineteen chests of opium. Poor John Chinaman !

RIVER SCENE AT KAYIN, CHINA.

Curious Customs.

In China, as in Japan, the customs of the people are in striking contrasts to
ours. A Chinese acquaintance, meeting you on the street, shakes his own hands
instead of yours as a mark of greeting. The men \^:ffj their hair as long as it
will grow, and they dress in skirts, while the women bind their hair tight around
their heads, and dress in pants.

A TEAPICKER.

igs)

94

AROUND THE WORI.D

The written language is never spoken, the spoken language is never written,
and in reading a book the Chinaman begins at the end and reads backward,
making his notes at the top of the page instead of at the bottom, as with us.

Surnames precede the given names, white and not black is used in mourn-
ing, a horse is mounted from the off-side and a vessel is launched sideways
instead of endways.

If you follow the Chinese fashion at dinner you must commence not with the
soup, but with the dessert, and in hunting a dressmaker you must look for a
man, not a woman. The index of the Chinese mariner's compass is placed on
the opposite end of the needle, and does not point to the north pole, but to the

FARMING OPERATIONS IN SOUTHERN CHINA — PLOWING WITH AN OX.

south. The babies look sober, the grown people grin and giggle. Our brides-
maids look beautiful in white, their bridesmaids look ugly in black.

Indeed, the matters of surprise were that these contrary creatures did not go
to bed in the morning and get up at night, and come down the street backward
instead of forward! The beasts and the birds seem to have caught the spirit of
national contrariness. Last Thursday, while taking a twelve-mile trip along the
grand canal on a donkey, in my frantic efforts to make his donkeyship cover
more than two miles an hour, I made a fatal mistake. I clucked, and there was
a dead halt. But, stranger still, in a flock of crows I noticed even here the
Chinese tendency — some of these birds had white rings about their necks! In

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

95

accomplishing the unexpected, as well as performing tricks that are vain, the
heathen ' 'Chinee' ' is peculiar.

Among many persons in the West there exist most erroneous impressions of
the political life, the imperial government and the national militia of the Middle
Kingdom. L,et us glance at these. The empire known to us as China is called
by the Chinese Chung-Kuo (Middle Kingdom, ) or Chung-hua Kuo (Middle Flow-
ery Kingdom). The name China is thought to be derived from Ch'in, which was
the name of a State i:i Northwestern China before the Christian era. It is

EARL, 1,1 VISITING GIiNERAL, GRANT'S TOMB.

recorded that Prince Cheng, ruler of Ch'in in the year 221 B. C, declared him-
self the "first universal emperor," and extended his dominion over the whole of
the country.

The vastness of the empire may be imagined from the following facts: Its
present area, exclusive of Corea, is about 4, 179,550 English square miles, and its
population, according to the official census taken in 1842, before the outbreak of
the Tai-Ping rebellion, was 413,700,000. It will be thus seen that the Chinese

96

AROUND THE WORLD

empire is larger than the whole of Europe and over thirty times the size of Great
Britain and Ireland.

As China's neighbor on the north is Russian territory, on the southwest British
possession, on the south the country that France is coveting, and on the east
is bounded by the Pacific Ocean, with two thousand five hundred miles of coast,
it can easily be seen why so many nations were greatly interested in the Japan-
China war, and why the "civilized" powers are watching her every movement.

Three great rivers drain the vast empire, adding immeasurably to the fertility
of the soil and affording convenient highways for travel and trade. The Yellow

THE PEKIN GATE IN THE GREAT UAtL OF CHINA.

River is in the north, the West River is in the southwest, and the Yangtzse (the
great river), which is in the centre, is the most important of all, and is one of
the greatest rivers in the world. It is navigable for large ocean steamers as far
up as six hundred miles from the sea, and while spending several days on its
bosom we were impressed by its vastness and its importance to the commercial
life of China.

China proper, not including Manchuria and the Eastern Turkestan province,
is divided into 19 provinces, and these again are geographically divided into 8'/

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

97

circuits, 189 prefectures, 34 departments, 71 districts, 114 sub-prefectures of the
Ting class, 188 sub-prefectures of the Chou class, and 1334 counties.

Pekin is the name of the Chinese imperial capital city, and here is the main
residence of the Emperor and the seat of the central government.

The present Emperor, Kuang-su, came to the throne in 1875, at the age of
four years, and was brought up under the care of the Empress- Dowager Regent.
The Emperor is the head of the church (so to speak), as well as the state, and
the government of the empire is based on the government of the family, accord-

EXTERiOR OF The royaIv palace, pekin, china.

ing to the laws and regulations laid down in the collected laws and institutes of
the present dynasty.

The Emperor worships Shang-ti, the Supreme Ruler and king of kings,
offers sacrifices to father Heaven and mother Earth, to the immortal sage Con-
fucius, as the saviour of the empire, and to Kuan-ti, the deified warrior, w^ho is
supposed to have delivered China in war and calamities during the time of the
"Three Kingdoms. " The present dynasty claims to be ruling in China by divine
right, and the Emperor is supposed to be descended from Shang-ti, the supreme
ruler, whom he regularly worships.

98

AROUND THE WORLD

Principal Offices.

The principal offices under the Emperor at Peking are the privy council, the
cabinet, the board of civil office, the board of revenue, the board of ceremonies,
the board of admiralty, the board of war, the board of punishment, the board of
works, supreme college of literature, court of censors, colonial office and foreign
office. Perhaps it may not generally be known that the Emperor is not Chinese,
but Manchou, and one-half of all the high statesmen are Manchou and the other
half Chinese.

The provincial viceroys and governors are expected to watch over the inter-
ests of the empire in their respective provinces and communicate direct with the
throne, should this be necessary. Frequently, of late, the Emperor has sought

A KAYIN PI^OUGHMAN.

the advice of these provincial magnates, and in the case of the distinguished Li
Hung Chang, who was viceroy of Chih-li, the Emperor needing his confidential
advice, he was called to Peking, where he now resides as a member of the inner
circle of his Majesty's advisers.

The Censorate.

Independent of the cabinet and above all the boards rises the censorate,
which consists of two presidents, four vice-presidents and about fifty members,
all of whom have taken their literary degrees and are associated with the Supreme
College of Literature. The censors, are given special privileges by which they

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

99

may address memorials directly to the Emperor, and may even remonstrate with
him if the}' think that he is pursuing a course that is dangerous to the welfare
of the countr}-.

As a nation the Chinese are not heavily taxed. The full amount of the
revenue levied, according to the report that is before me, in both grain and silver,
is about three hundred millions of taels when all is converted into silver currency,
and of this sum, it is said, one-third is never properly accounted for, another

RECKPTION OK A KORRIGN AMBAS.SADOR BV THK KMPEROR OK CHIXA.

third is deducted to pay the expenses of collectio:i, a-id not jiiore than half of the
balance reaches Pekin.

nilitary Organizations.

The world just now is laughing at the military standing of China, and the
once much-dreaded Tartars appear to have retrograded in martial qualities. But
the undisciplined coolies who faced the Japanese in the late war give us a very
inadequate idea of the military force of the empire.

lOO

AROUND THE WORLD

The Chinese array is divided into three great forces, each of which has its
own peculiar organization. The first of these is known as the Pa-Chi, or Eight
Banners, consisting entirely of hereditary warriors ranged under one or other of
the eight banners of the nationalities— the Manchous, the Mongol and the
Chinese. The total force is about 3200 officers and 350,000 privates, the majority
of whom have been taught the use of the modern breech-loading rifles and field

I. Foreign Instructor J. C. Clowe. 2. Captain Interpreter Chu Lao.

A NINE-INCH GUN, CHINESE ARTILLERY, "READY FOR ACTION."

artillery. The reserves of this banner army are the total population of Mongolia
and Manchuria.

riilitia and Volunteers.

The next division, or indeed separate army, is the regular Chinese army,
called Ying Ping, Green Regiments, on account of their colors. This force con-
sists entirely of Chinese and is a sort of local militia, distributed throughout the
empire, numbering over 7000 officers and 300,000 privates. Three centuries
ago this was the finest military force in the world, but at present its lack of

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

lOI

organization and discipline and the presence of corruption throughout the whole
system threatens its disintegration.

The third Chinese army is the volunteers or braves. About half of this
force is fairly well disciplined and drilled in the use of modern artillery, and is
used to guard the approaches to the imperial capital. During the Tai-Ping
rebellion over four millions of Chinese were under arms, and were the reorganiza-
tion of the arm}' attended to in a scientific manner China could easily place six
or seven millions of men in the field.

The organization of the Chinese navy having been entrusted to officers of
different nationalities, each of whom had some peculiar reform of his own to
introduce, the result, it seems, is a lamentable
mixture of things which is most unsatisfactory.

I was very much interested in a visit to
the arsenal at Shanghai, where the largest
guns are manufactured. Foo-Chow is the
only other place in the empire where an
arsenal of the kind is located. The most ser-
viceable guns are nine-inch,
using projectiles of three hundred and fifty

NATIVE FARM IN THE VICINITY OF CANTON, CHINA.

pounds and charged with one hundred and fifty pounds of powder. These have
an effective range of about two miles.

On my trip of one hundred and fifty miles up the Yangtzse River I was
fortunate in having as one of my companions the foreign instructor to the Tse
Tien Miao battery, one of the largest batteries on the river, and through this
gentleman's kindness I received some valuable information.

Fortifications.

The fortifications along the Yangtzse valley are now the strongest in China,
and forces are here under German instruction, with the expectation of taking the

T02 AROUND THE WORLD

field in the coming spring against the Mohammedan rebels of the northwest.
There are thirty foreign instructors in the five forts along the river, most of these
American and British.

These instructors were engaged without the sanction of their countries, and
those from England received employment in violation of the British foreign
enlistment act, in force during the late war, thus making themselves liable to
large fines and six months' imprisonment.

The armament of these forts consists of English and German guns. Here
we find twelve-inch muzzle-loading guns, carrying projectiles of eighteen hun-
dred pounds, charged with two hundred pounds of powder, with a range of five
miles; also, twelve-inch breech-loading guns of fifty-tWo tons, nine-inch guns of
forty tons, six-inch quick-firing guns and Hotchkiss machine guns.

Corrupt Administrations.

Before these forts came under foreign instruction the greatest confusion and
corruption existed, and the robbery inflicted upon the government gives proof of
the lack of the least semblance of patriotism. I was given this instance of the
kind of dishonesty that is going on all over the empire to-day : The commander
of a camp of 500 men will receive 3000 taels — about 4500 Mexican dollars — per
month, for expenses. Instead of paying his men, say 71 or 72 tael-cents to the
Mexican dollar, he pays them at a different rate and keeps the balance. Again,
the offictr has enrolled 500 men, while actually there are present only 300. The
inspecting officers give a week's notice before their arrival. Coolies are called
in from the neighboring villages, put in uniform for the day of the inspection
only, and they line the wall, wave flags and shout with the troops. As the
requisite number is present, the commander receives pay for the five hundred;
the two hundred coolies are dismissed on the departure of the inspectors with a
slight compensation and the officer or officers pocket the pay for two hundred
soldiers. This, I am told on good authority, is going on now all over China
where natives have the organization and command of the military. Where for-
eign instruction prevails this kind of thing is impossible, for there is regular drill,
semi-foreign uniform and systematic inspection.

On our steamer going up to Nanking was the daughter of the viceroy, Liang
Kiang, with her retinue of ten servants. This viceroy is said to be the most
progressive man in the empire, and in him largeh' centres the hope of China.
He has for his foreign adviser an Englishman by the name of R. B. Moorhead,
commissioner of the imperial maritime customs, who has been mainly instru-
mental in organizing the Yangtzse River defense that we have described. Grad-
ually this vast empire is allowing the wall of her exclusiveness to crumble. May
it soon exist only in memory and not in fact.

CHAPTER V.

STRANGEST OF STRANGE CITIES.

HE third day out from Shanghai, we steamed up the mag-
nificent Typhon Bay, and dropped anchor below Hong
Kong, which rose before us on the lofty range of hills
that surround the famous harbor. We had reached the
most easterly possession of Great Britain, and, from the
scarlet uniforms that are constantly in evidence on the
streets of the city, from the strong fortifications that are
in view, and from the names given to many of the promi-
nent points of interest, you are not allowed to forget who are the masters of the
island, forty miles in circumference, upon which Hong Kong is located

By means of the incline, cog-wheel railway, you reach the summit of Victoria
Peak, and, standing upon this noble eminence, you can take a bird's-eye view of
the country for many miles around. About 3'ou are many beautiful bungalows,
with pretty surroundings; down the slopes of the hills are hundreds of hand.some
residences of the foreigners; toward the base of the eminences can be seen the
Chinese quarters, in striking contrast to the rest of the settlement, and below and
stretching far away is the sea. dotted with crafts of every description. The popu-
lation of Hong Kong is of a most conglomerate character. While the English are
most strongly represented, Americans, French, Germans, East Indians, Italians,
Portuguese, Spaniards, and even the Parsee, are to be seen on the streets; and,
from the conduct of most of these in .social and commercial life, it is not a matter
of surpri.se that the natives are accu.stomed to use the epithet of doubtful compli-
ment, "foreign devils," in speaking of them.

Although it is Christmas week, in this semi-tropical climate we notice the
exuberance of the flora. Many varieties of the cactus family, the camphor tree,
the aloes, the cypresses, the Cape jasmines, hydrangeas, geraniums, palms and
magnolias are seen quite frequently in our walks and drives about the city, and
the Chinese gardeners show great skill in the cultivation and exhibition of their
flowers and plants.

China's Commercial City.

Canton, the commercial capital of China, located ninety miles up the
Pearl River, was the special object of our vi.sit to Southern China, and our
trip on the steamer, which gave us an excellent opportunity to study the river,

( lo.^)

I04

AROUND THE WORLD

the rural districts, the dilapidated villages and the fortifications, was not in the least
wearisome. As 3^ou approach Canton, there is presented a sight that is not dupli-
cated in the world. You sail through a floating city of 200,000 souls ! The
thousands of boats that cover the face of the river fronting Canton are built as
houses, and in these boats persons are born, are married and die, never knowing
any other homes. The first one of these in which we rode, contained the father,
who guided the little craft; the mother and half-grown daughter, who did the
rowing, and three babies, who looked as sober as judges, cuddled up in the ' ' hole. "

ox THE RIVER, CANTON.

This rude, floating affair is literally their world. Here they cook, eat, wash, ply
their only business, in which all the members of the family are engaged who can
lend a helping hand; and they seem to know nothing of, or care nothing about, the
population of a million and a half on the shore. I am writing these words on the
porch of the home of Dr. Graves, and just below me, within two hundred 3'ards of
my chair, can be seen this moving cit}^ on the river, that reminds me somewhat
of the busy scenes on the great canal at Venice, except the boats are not so
artistic, but far more numerous.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

105

It has been well said that Canton is the strangest of all strange cities; and it
is certainly the most representative one in China. The city extends for four miles
along the Pearl River, and, although it has a population of about the size of New
York, there is hardly a street over eight feet in width. As the narrowness of the
streets will not allow the use of the jinrikishas, and as a horse is a curiosity, you
must wind your way through the throngs of people on foot, or be jostled along in
a sedan chair or rocking palanquin. Gamblers are found at every turn, seated
about square tables, jabbering in an excited manner; the small manufacturer
plies his trade in the open thoroughfare; cooking goes on in the gutters or in the
open doors, filling the air with
greasy odors; the barber is en-
gaged in his active business
by your side, as you pass
along; the vender of eels
and dog-meat proudly screams
the doubtful statement that he
has something peculiarly deli-

A CHINESE GENTLEMAN'S HOME.

cious; the burden-bearers, of both sexes and all ages, grunt and groan as they
limp past 3'ou; the gaudily decorated bridal chair, preceded by a long line of men
and boys with ga}^ banners and followed by a uniformed retinue, bearing baskets
and boxes of presents, attract your attention; and thus for hours 3-ou are interested,
instructed and bewildered by the ever-changing sights of the unique city.

io6

AROUND THE WORLD

A Chinese Dwelling.

A family street of the better classes does not present a bad appearance. The
walls lining both sides of the way are formed of bluish-gray bricks, neatly pointed
in mortar, with granite foundations reaching several feet above the ground. There
are no windows, and you enter through a plain, massive, double-leaved door,
fastened by wooden bolts. Having entered this outer door, you find yourself
inider a small introductory roof, which shelters the porter's room. Before j^ou
are sets of wooden doors reaching from wall to wall, and beyond these is a small

court, open to the sky, where or-

namental flowers and plants are
placed. The house proper is now
before you, and separate apart-
ments, under different roofs, are
entered; for a Chinese residence,
except among the humbler classes,
is a collection of small buildings.
Ceilings are very seldom seen, and
the walls are neither plastered nor
papered. The houses of the poor
are the most wretched hovels,
many of them being only mat-
sheds, the frame work of which is
made of bamboo and the walls and
roofs of oblongrs formed of bamboo

leaves fastened together.

Sacred Hogs.

Although for two months we

* ■■- •-(■?

TEMPr,E AT .M:s"G1'0.

I had been visiting Japanese and

Chinese temples until we were

sickened by the degradation and

superstition of which the religious instinct of humanity was capable, we could not

see Canton without entering some of the hundreds of these buildings dedicated to

Confucianism, Buddhism or Taouism.

The one held most sacred by* the natives, perhaps, is the Temple of
Honan. As you enter the grounds, you are confronted by two hideous idols of
colossal size, figures half animal and half human in design, with countenances
that would give the nightmare to a professional cut-throat ! Passing bj' the rows
of shrines, the groups of dwarfed trees forced to grow in the shape of various
animals, the cremating ovens where the bodies of the shaven-headed priests find

M

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w

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(107)

io8

AROUND THE WORLD

repose, the pond where the sacred lotus is in bloom, we were more interested in
an enclosure where a number of sacred hogs were wallowing in filth in a most
unsacred manner. If the Parsee worships fire, the Japanese bends before foxes
and snakes, the Hindu makes gods of cows and monkeys, some may ask why
should not the gentleman of the pig-tail have his sacred pig.

Horrors I

In the Temple of Horrors, we looked upon vivid representations of the ten
hells of Buddhism. Men floating in boiling oil; women suspended by iron hooks

The "floating city" on peari. river, canton, china.

run through their backs, and all kinds of torments are set forth in ways that are
apt to make the blood of the wicked native curdle.

As my pen just now is running along the line of the horrible, I must not
close this chapter without telling of a heart-rending scene I witnessed yesterday.
Passing out of the East Gate of the city, after walking several miles over a lonely
country path, on either side of which were thousands of Chinese graves, many of
them fresh during the last year's black plague, we reached the village of lepers. As
we approached this place of agony, we were surrounded by scores of these death-
stricken creatures; and as we passed down the main street, the whole community
seemed to be at our heels craving alms. The loathsome disease had as its victim

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

109

the infant at its mother's breast and the decrepit old man — all ages, in all stages

of the affliction, were before me. Some with face, hands and feet enlarged, red,

smooth and gloss}-; some undergoing spontaneous amputation of the fingers and

toes; some with limbs partially decayed — but I must draw the curtain upon this

horror of horrors !

Slavery in China.

During my month's stay in Canton I had occasion, through the kindness
of our missionaries and consul, to study the customs and habits of the Cantonese;
and nothing that I witnessed was
more heart-rending than the cruel
treatment and pitiable condition
of the blind girls.

In China the subject knows
no such a thing as liberty, and
the individual, who is but the
fraction of the unit of society,
which is the family, knows no
rights as an in-
dividual. This be-
ing true, slavery
is the necessary
consequence. Hu-
man beings are
bought and sold
as chattels, and
quite frequently a
childless man buys
a boy from poor
parents to save his
family from going
out of existence isi^and of the i.itti.e; orphan in the Yangtze.

A form of domestic slavery, in which families of means buy slave-girls, is
very common here in Canton, and purchasing them in earl 3^ girlhood for from ten
to one hundred dollars, according to their beauty and health, they w'ork for their
owners without wages until they are of a marriageable age, when they are sold in
marriage or disposed of for other purposes, according to the price offered.

Sad Lot of Blind Girls.

But there is a kind of slavery more appalling still, of which I desire specially
to write, namely, the slavery of blind girls. Passing down the streets of Canton,

no AROUND THE WORLB

at night, my attention was called to numbers of blind girls from fourteen to
eighteen years of age dressed in brilliant outer garments, with their faces rouged
and their hair ornamented with flowers. A woman, carrying a musical instrument,
led several of these girls, and I have since learned that they were owned by this
mistress, who conducted them, by night, to the lowest parts of the city, and by
their playing, singing and in most disreputable way she secures an income
throuo-h them that enables her to live in ease and comfort. I have met no class
of persons, not excepting the sore-covered beggar or the decaying leper, that
seemed so pitiable as these blind singing girls.

It is regarded an affliction for a girl to be born in a Chinese family, and when
the girl is blind her life is one of ceaseless neglect and cruelty, and often, if the
family is poor, she is sold for a small amount to one of these dealers in human
bodies, who plies her nefarious business until death snatches her victim from her.

Case of Redemption.

This morning I visited five of these little blind girls who had been redeemed
by a Christian woman before they were old enough to be led into lives of shame.
This is the sad story of one of these little creatures: Her father belonged to a
literary family and was himself an intelligent Chinese gentleman. The opium
habit and gambling became the curse of his life, and in order to gratify these
passions he sold all of his property and his six children, including this blind baby
girl. This child was rebought from a low mistress, w4io was training her to be a
singing girl.

One of these children has a double thumb on her right hand, and it was
through this deformity that she was rescued from a wretched life. Her mistress
brought her to one of the hospitals and requested that one of the thumbs be cut
off. When the surgeon declined to make the operation she started off, saying:
"Well, I will cut it away myself, for she can't learn the guitar with a double
thumb!" The doctor reported the case to my friend, and a few dollars redeemed
the child, double thumb and all! She seemed as lively as a cricket.

No one can tell what these innocent children suffer when they fall into the
clutches of these old harridans, and that the government has any responsibility in
the matter does not seem to occur to the Governor of Canton.

riassacres and Riots.

During the last score of years there have been frequent riots in Canton, in
which foreigners have been the sufferers, and as missionaries are the only foreigners
who go far inland away from the treaty ports, they have mainly felt the force of
these uprisings.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

Ill

In 1S83 there were riots here in Canton, a large part of the foreign settlement
was destroyed, including mission and business property, and many narrowly
escaped bodily injury. Last summer there were numerous riots in West China.
Almost all of the mission property in the province of Sze Chuan was demolished,
and a large number of Americans were among the sufferers.

During the terrible Tien-Tsin riot several French Catholic sisters and other
foreigners lost their lives, and last year a brutal attack was made on two lady
physicians in the suburb of Canton while they were trying to help a plague-

REDEEMED BLIND GIRLS UNDER MISS WHILDEN'S CARE, CANTON, CHINA.

Stricken Chinaman to the hospital. The lives of these women were saved only
by the timely appearance of foreign customs officers with fire-arms.

The Kucheng Atrocities.

Since my arrival in China, knowing that many contradictory stories had been
sent to America about the notorious massacre at Kucheng, in the Euh Kien
province, during last August, I have tried personally to learn the facts of this
affair, and I find that the reports have not exaggerated its brutality.

At this place, one hundred miles inland from the port of Foo-Chow, resided a
number of English missionaries sent out by the English Mission Society and

112 AROUND THE WORLD

several seut out by the American Methodists. For some months a sect calling-
itself Vegetarians (because the}' eat no flesh), known to be a dangerous secret
political society adhering strictly to the Buddhists, had shown ill-feeling toward
native and foreign Christians, and numerous acts of robber}- and persecutions had
been committed.

August the first being the sixth birthday of Herbert Stewart, a child of mis-
sionaries, he and his sisters started out to the neighboring hills to gather flowers
with which to decorate the home in honor of his birthday. They were met by a
procession of these brutes, and after they had been beaten most unmercifully they
were allowed to return, only to find everything in the greatest disorder and the
Vegetarians in full possession. The father and mother were murdered; Herbert
died from his wounds next day; one of the sisters was torn frightfully by a spear
wound; the baby's head was gashed and his eyes torn out and he lived only a few
days. The nurse and six young ladies of the mission were found dead, some of
them fearfully hacked and mutilated, and the houses of the foreigners were
burned.

After the riot was over and the murderers had escaped soldiers were sent to keep
the peace, but they magnanimously seized the opportunity of stealing everything
of value that had been left on the ground, and continued to be nuisances until
they were removed.

The Leader's Confession.

Although it is currently reported that over twenty of those connected with
this massacre have been beheaded, during the fall there have been repeated indi-
cations of more disturbances. After some little trouble I have been enabled to
secure an exact translation of the confession of Minchiang Chek, the man who led
the Vegetarians on the day of the massacre. It is as follows: " I am forty-seven
years of age, and reside in the eleventh township of the Minchiang district. I
am the eldest of three brothers, and am a doctor and brazier by trade. At the age
of twenty-six I became a Vegetarian, and on the ninth of the twelfth moon of last
year I came to Kucheng and induced eight men (names given) to join the society.
According to one of the fixed rules of the order, each of them paid i6So cash as
an entrance fee, and after this the leader of the sect gave me the new name of Buo
Heng. The Vegetarians are divided into nine companies, of which I belong to
that known as lying Kung.

■ On the eighth of the sixth moon (the massacre was on the eleventh) about
thirty of us met in a monastery on Kung Sang Kuoi, and at that meeting three plans
were proposed: (i) Togo to the village of Dank Denk and rob the house of a rich
man there. (2) To kill the foreigners at Hwa Sang. (3) To murder the foreigners
and tear down their houses at Kucheng City. Being unable to decide, Dowg Gan

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

113

Gang, a fortune-teller and our leader, took three pieces of paper, on wliicli he
wrote the three plans proposed, writing one on each and rolling them into little
balls. He then took three incense sticks as chop sticks, and three times in
succession picked out the ball on which the words Hwa Sang were written. (The
massacre took place earh- the next morning.)

' ' Over a hundred of us met that night and armed ourselves with guns and
three-pronged spears. The first foreigner we saw was a 3'oung lady standing at
the back door of one of the houses. I rushed at her immediately and

CHINESE GAMBLING ON THE ROOF OF A HOUSE AT CANTON, CHINA.

stabbed her in the back with my spear. She fell down and died. Having
killed her, I went to a Chinese house where there was another foreign
woman (Miss Hartford, of the American Methodist Mission) and tried to
stab her, but unfortunately her servant struck me and took from me my
spear. The other Vegetarians were at work in other houses where there were

foreigners."

Those men were not rebels, but murderous wretches, bitterly hating all
foreigners, and it is the general opinion that the viceroy of the province and his
8

114 ' AROUND THE WORLD

associates could have easily crushed them out of existence months ago if they had
so desired.

The letter of the treaties should protect foreigners from such brutal attacks,
but physical force influences much more the conduct of an ordinary Chinaman
than the moral obligation or legal significance of a treaty.

Attempt to Take Canton.

On our arrival in Japan the papers were filled with accounts of the attempted
uprising at Canton, and it was feared at one time that we would be prevented from
visiting Southern China. Through the kindness of our affable consul at Canton,
Mr. Charles Seymour, I have secured the facts of this trouble, which threatened
to be a very serious affair.

The leaders of this rebellion planned that the attack on Canton should be
made on the thirtieth of October, and looking to this, arms and ammunition were
smuggled into the city. Monday morning, October 28, about four hundred men
boarded the steamer at Hong Kong for Canton, and as they acted suspiciously, the
authorities at Hong Kong telegraphed to the police office at Canton, and on their
arrival a large number of them were put under arrest.

It was found afterward that barrels that had come through the customs

marked "cement" contained arms and explosives, and that secret preparation

had been going on for months before these arrests were made. Their plan,

as afterward announced, was to capture the treasury, the residences of the

viceroy and other officials, and to set up a government after the style of Western

nations.

The badge of the leaders was a red sash thrown over the shoulder and

knotted under the arm. They expected the soldiers and others to join them as

soon as their work of capturing and pillage began, and it is thought that many of

the restless element of the community would have joined them if they had made

any headway. A number of those arrested have been beheaded and rewards

are offered for the heads of others.

Socialists Suspected.

As early as the fifteenth of last July an Englishman by the name of Click,
who had been expelled from Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, because he was involved
in a seditious movement, leased a house in Canton, and he, with a German social-
ist by the name of Stauhhmann, lived in this place for months. Immediately after
the arrests were made and the uprising was nipped in the bud, these men suddenly
disappeared, and in the house in which they lived were found ammunition, dyna-
mite and other evidences of the fact that they were doubtless interested in the
success of the attempted rebellion.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

"5

Mr. Seymour, the United States consul, expressed to me the opinion that the

affair is not entirely suppressed, and, with the aid of the many societies with

socialistic tendencies throughout the province, there may at any time be a general

uprising, which would elicit the sympathy and aid of thousands who are dissatisfied

with the present state of the government. There are clear-sounding mutterings

of the smashing of old foundations and crashing of present institutions throughout

the East.

Chinese Customs.

During my rambles through the cities, villages and farm lands of Southern
China I find that I have filled my note-book with brief accounts of Chinese

MRS. GRAVE'S AND MISS WHITE'S GIRLS' SCHOOI. AT CANTON, CHINA.

characteristics that have impressed me as being peculiar and which I cannot well
classify; so, before sailing for other lands, I shall give, in a disjointed manner,
these hurriedly made descriptions of a people who are, by far, more interesting
in their native land than anywhere else.

As most of the time I have had by my side on these tours foreign gentlemen
who have lived for years in the " Celestial kingdom " and who speak several of

ii6 AROUND THE WORLD

the dialects fluentty, my opportunities for gaining correct information during
these weeks have been very gratifying.

One of the first things that attracts special notice is the dress of a people, and
John Chinaman and family command your immediate attention in this respect.

Dress and Headgear.

The two necessities in all Chinese dress are the loose pair of trousers (the
foo) and the almost equally loose-fitting jacket (the sham); with these two
articles the Chinese is completely dressed, and if anything else is worn it is for
comfort or luxur3^

The upper garment is worn long or short, plain or decorated, hea\T or light,
according to the condition of the wearer or weather, and the balloon trousers are
carefully tucked into long stockings, neatly bound with garters below the knee,
and over these a pair of leggings is placed if the owner of these legs desires to be
finely dressed, or if he is afraid of catching cold in his nether parts.

A woman's trousers are similarly shaped, and instead of knickerbockers,
when they are dressed up, they wear something like the divided skirt, one
piece hanging in front down to the ankles and the other hanging behind the
same wa^', and these are buttoned up at one side and open at the other, while
embroider}' and pleats in vertical lines adorn them. In certains parts of the
empire, especially on and along the rivers in the interior, nature's garb appears
to be all sufficient, and one feature, at least, of the simple innocence of our parents'
lives in the Garden of Eden, is seen in its unadorned perfection.

Female Fancy.

The women of China have much more time at their disposal than our women,
Decause they do not have to select spring, summer, fall and winter bonnets or
hats. Their hair is combed and plastered with a gum; thus made up it forms a
sufficient head-covering for the climate of Southern China, and in colder places a
handkerchief or broad band, either plain or embroidered, is often bound across the
forehead.

The men wear a skull-cap of satin for the most part, with a cord button of
red or black on the top, in the winter season, but go bareheaded in summer.
Large bamboo hats, about a yard in diameter, are worn to protect from the rain
and the rays of the sun.

The women, in every grade of life, wear earrings, some of which are as
brilliant as they are tremendous, and these ornaments seem to be more indispen-
sable than a woman's foo or sham.

The stjde of dress and the mode of doing up the hair, I notice, differ in
different parts of China, but the men's dress is very much the same wherever I

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

117

have been. There is a severe modesty in the dress of Chinese women that is in
striking contrast to the state of semi-nudity that was seen frequently in certain
parts of Japan. Among women the process of binding the feet and the kind of
shoe worn vary ver}'- much in different places. Ordinarily the rich bind the feet
of their daughters at six or eight years, the poor at thirteen or fourteen, and
seldom are the feet
bound later than
fifteen.

ac.

A Barbarous Practice.

One end of a ban-
dage, about two
inches wide and ten
feet long, is laid on
the inside of the in-
step; thence it is car-
ried over the four
smaller toes, drawing
them down upon the
sole; then it passes
under the foot, over
the instep and around
the heel, drawing the
heel and toe nearer
together, making a
bulge on the instep
and a deep notch in
the sole underneath;
thence it follows its
former course until
the bandage is all ap-
plied, and the last end
is sewn firmly on the
underlying cloth.

Monthly, or oftener, the feet, with the bandages upon them, are put into hot
w^ater and soaked. Then the bandages are removed, the dead skin is rubbed oflf,
the foot is kneaded more fully into the desired shape, pulverized alum is laid on
and clean bandages quickly applied.

The head physician in the Fat-Shun Hospital told me that frequently the
flesh becomes putrescent during the process of binding and portions slough off

BOUND FOOT OF CHINESE WOMAN.

iiS AROUND THE WORLD

from the sole. Not infrequently a toe drops off, and lately he was called in to see
a woman both of whose feet had become entirely dead from the lack of blood
circulation and had entirely dropped o£f.

While the feet are being formed they are useless; the victim sleeps on her
back, lying crosswise on the bed, with her feet dangling over the side, and the
sensation is said to be like that of having the joints punctured with needles.

As I write I have before me a model of a bound foot. There is a notch in
the middle of the sole, deep enough to conceal a silver dollar put in edgewise
across the foot. The four small toes are so twisted that their ends may be seen on
the inside of the foot below the ankle, and the broken and distorted bones of the
middle of the foot are pressed into a mass where the instep should be. The shape
is very much like a fowl's head, the big toe representing the bill.

The limb becomes a frightful and fetid thing, and below the knee there is
little beside skin and bones. The tiny ball of flesh is kept bandaged in alum pow-
der, the bandages are shortened one-half their first length, and black ones are
often put over the white ones.

Embroidered satin shoes, with brightly painted heels, are worn, and a neat
pantalette covers all but the toe. As you watch her toddle along, as if she was
walking on the points of needles, you cannot say with the poet:

" Her foot so liglit, her step so true,
Scarce from the harebell brushed the dew.

Woman's Status.

When I protested against this barbarous practice to an intelligent Chinaman
he admitted all I said, then quietly reminded me of the tight lacing among the
European and American women, and informed me that certain fashionable
foreign women, charitably disposed, drew up a lengthy protest against this
" outrage " some time since, and when they met in a hall to sign the paper some
of them were laced so tight that they found difTiculty in leaning over to put their
signatures to the document! It depends largely upon our point of view whether
a thing is " heathen " or not.

The Chinese woman is not shut up in a harem, as in Turkey; she is not
degraded by polyandr>% as in Thibet; she is not denied the possession of a soul
and the religious privileges of men, as in Burma, and she is not so demoralized
and humiliated as in Siam; yet she is not allowed to eat with her husband, she is
forbidden to walk with him, and she has no legal right to anything whatever,
apart from her male relatives. A husband may beat his wife to death and go
unpunished, but if a wife strikes her husband a single blow she receives a hundred
blows with a heavy bamboo, and he may be divorced from her.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

119

An infant girl is often engaged to be married by her parents; and a lady in
Canton told me that, on seeing a young man carrying a baby girl on his back, she
asked him whose child it was, and he replied that it was his future wife!

A Polite People.

The system of etiquette of the Chinese is very elaborate, and the urbanity
and suavity of manner with which even the lower classes address one another
cannot be surpassed by any nation.

In talking to a man in a superior position the eyes must not be fixed on his,
but must rest on the button on the left lapel of his coat; when a room is entered

THE BEHEADING OF PIRATES NEAR HONG KONG, CHINA.

where persons are seated it is not in good form to bow to each separately, but a
grave bow must be given first to the right and then to the left; the left hand is the
place of honor.

Politeness forbids you to ask a person to pay a debt, but it is quite the thing
to ask him to loan you the amount he owes and then never return it. It is quite
impolite to wear spectacles before a guest or superior. The Chinaman puts his
hat on to receive his guest, for appearing bareheaded before a visitor is considered
quite impolite.

I20 AROUND THE WORLD

Long finger-nails are badges of respectability. Instead of shaking hanas, a
Chinaman clasps his two hands together, moving them up and down a few inches
in front of himself several times.

To remain seated while your superior or guest is standing is not tolerated in
polite society.

Sport and Superstition.

Although John Chinaman is a hard-working and industrious personage, you
need but saunter through the crowded streets of one of his cities to be convinced
that he is also fond of amusements. The theatres are crowded. The various
birthdays of the gods are hailed with delight. The annual regattas throughout
China of the dragon-boat feast, the full-moon festivals and the New Year holiday,
all are celebrated by games and great magnificence of ceremonial worship.

The Dragon Emblem.

At every turn in China you meet paintings, drawings and carvings of the
dragon, which is the imperial emblem of state. The dragon, which is reserved
for royal use in designs on furniture, porcelain and clothing, is depicted with five
claws; that in use by the common people has only four. It is thus described in
an old Chinese writing : "Its head is like a camel's, its horns like a deer's, its
eyes like a hare's, its ears like a bull's, its neck like a snake's, its scales like a
carp's, its claws like an eagle's, and its paws like a tiger's. Its scales number
eighty-one, being nine by nine, the extreme (odd or) lucky number. Its voice
resembles the beating of a gong. On each side of its mouth are whiskers, under
its chin is a bright pearl, and on the top of his head is the poh-shan, or wooden
foot-rule, without which he cannot ascend the skies."

This wonderful antediluvian creature is embalmed in the literature and
memory of the Chinese, and to it are referred nearly all the blessings and calami-
ties that come upon the people.

riarkets, Food and Delicacies.

Many persons have a ver>- erroneous notion about the food of the Chinese,
While I have seen dogs' , cats' and rats' flesh hung up in the market places in
Canton for sale, this is not a common sight. Pork, fish and fowls are abundant
in the markets, and beef is also seen. Rice and dried salt or fresh vegitables are
eaten at nearly every meal.

Noticing quite frequently a gelatinous substance at the groceries and other
stores, I was informed, on inquiry, that it was " bird's nest," and from it a soup
is made that is regarded a great luxury in China. These edible nests are built in
caves along the seashore. The birds, during the building time, assemble in
large numbers upon the beach, carrying in their beaks the foam thrown up by

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(I2IJ

122 AROUND THE WORLD

the surf, of which they construct their glutinous nests, after it has undergone
some preparation from commixture with sahne or other secretions in the crop of
the bird. The bird is called " the foaming swallow."

They say that the finest of these nests, when taken from these caves near the
sea, look like pure isinglass and bring as much as thirty dollars a pound. It is
thought to be very stimulating, and it forms the first dish at all grand dinners.

Capital Punishment.

In one of my walks through the city I visited the execution place, a small
plot of ground which can boast of more slain than many battlefields. The male-
factors are generally borne by coolies in ordinary dust-baskets to this place of
death. They kneel down in rows, bending their heads forward, with their arms
tied behind them, and then, with a single blow from a skillful executioner's
blade the head rolls to the ground.

A friend sent to me, among other photographs, two horrible companion
pictures. One taken of eight pirates just in the act of being beheaded; the other
just after the fatal blow had been given, as the heads and bodies were falling to
the ground. As the instantaneous process of photography was used, the expres-
sions are dreadfully lifelike, or rather deathlike.

Punishments inflicted for an infringement of the law are mainly flogging with
the bamboo, banishment for a limited time or permanently, and death by
strangling or decapitation.

The Beggars' Guild.

Beggary in China is reduced to a fine art, and in all the large cities there is
an organization that is perfect in its system. The beggars are united under a
head, called the "king of the beggars," who is appointed by a guild, and each
day the contents of the baskets of these wretches in sackcloth is pooled. The
payment of a fixed sum to the "king" by any shop will secure immunity from
all visits of his subjects (the shopkeeper is given a certificate to this effect, which
he hangs at his door) , otherwise the shop is visited daily by these creatures, who
are annoying and repulsive in the extreme.

One of the most pitiable things that I have learned is that there is not an
asylum for the insane in the Empire of China.

^

CHAPTER VI.
LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE IN THE MIDDLE KINGDOM.

URING the weeks spent in China, I have taken special notice of
the dialects, literature and educational institutions of the empire
and, perhaps, some of the results of this necessarily superficial
study may be of interest to my readers. The philologist, in

- D'^V his classification of languages, has been accustomed to place the

^Y Chinese language in a position of its own, with no certain relationship

to other speeches of mankind; but through the labors of Edkins,
Schleo-el and others there seems to appear some connection, between Chinese and
the Arvan languages, while Terrien de Lacouperie and his colaborers insist that
there is a striking afl&nity between the languages of China and Babylon.

Position is nearly everything in the construction of Chinese sentences, and
the relation of words is used by them to express what we, to a great extent, show
by case, mood, tense, number and person, and in addition to this relative position
of words the employment of auxiliary characters, and a general symmetry of
construction in the written language aid very much in the correct development of

ideas.

One who has studied the language for forty years at Canton assures me that
the Chinese is one of the simplest, while at the same time one of the most difficult
languages in the world. Its simplicity consists of the almost entire absence of
inflexional forms; its difficulty consists of the combination of different dialects,
so-called, under the one name of Chinese, as, for instance, the book language in
its tw^o or three different forms, the colloquial or spoken language, in its different
vernaculars and in its tones, the stumbling-block and ruin of most of those who
attempt to repeat i^

Styles of Writing.

In general, the language may be divided as follows: The ancient style, in
which the classics are written, which is concise and vague; the literary style,
which is more diffuse and poetical, and in which the essays of the candidates at
the governmental examinations are written; the business style, which is void of
ornamentation and is used for commercial purposes, legal writings and official
documents, and the colloquial, the spoken language, which is divided into dialects
and which is very seldom used by a writer. From a literal translation of a
Chinese sentence that is before me, I agree with Marshman when he says: ''A
Chinese character may in general be considered as conveying an idea without

(123)

124

AROUND THE WORLD

reference to any part of speech, and its being used as a substantive, an adjective
or a verb depends on circumstances. ' '

We speak of the Chinese language being spoken in Canton, Shanghai, Foo-
chow and Pekin, but it is eqvially true that not one of the inhabitants from any
one of these places could understand those from the others an}- more than a
Parisian could understand a New Yorker, or a citizen of Berlin could converse
with one from Madrid.

Divisions of Speech.

Although there are the following main divisions of speech, commonly called
dialects — the Cantonese, the Hakka, the Amo}^, the Swatow, the Hainanese, the

IMMEDIATELY AFTER BEHEADING OE PIRATES NEAR HONG KONG, CHINA,

Shanghai, the Ningpo and the Mandarin— yet we find that the dialect of one
district is not one homogeneous whole, and the variations are often so marked
between the colloquial of persons living only a few miles from each other that you
would think that they are speaking different dialects.

During my trips I have passed through little settlements that seemed almost
a law to themselves as to their speech, 5nd the variety of pronunciation, the new

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 125

idioms and words used and the intonations puzzled my friend, who had been
speaking several dialects for years'. In certain parts of China the language is said
to change every twenty miles, and an estimate has been made that there are as
many dialects and sub-dialects as there are days in the year. A thorough knowl-
edge of one of these main dialects may enable a person to be understood through-
out several provinces, but only imperfectly so.

The riandarin Tongue.

The Mandarin is the most widespread; it is supposed that three-fourths of the
people have some knowledge of it. All high officials are required to speak the
Mandarin, and those who are associated with the official class or aspire to office
must learn it.

Over two hundred years ago the Emperor Kang Hi established schools in
Canton and elsewhere throughout the empire, with the view of introducing a
uniform language in place of the numerous dialects, but his effi^rts, which have
not been repeated, had no effect in hushing this confusion of tongues. In the
acquisition of any of these dialects four difficulties confront the student immedi-
ately, viz., the tones, the idiom, the classifiers and the multiplicity of verbs.

Puzzling Intonation.

The meaning of a Chinese word depends upon the tone. For example:
" Ngo," in one tone, means " I myself;" in another tone, "a goose." " Chu,"
in one tone, means " Eord ;" in another, "pig." "Tin," in one tone, means
" heaven;" in another " field." " Sz," means " four," in one tone, and "dead"
in another. Ku," means an "orphan," "ancient," or "wages," according to
the tone given to it. Referring to the idiom some one has said: "Speak your
English sentence backward, and you will have a good Chinese sentence." While
this would not always prove to be correct, the order of our words is always
changed. For "How old are you?" the Chinese say: "You, this year, how
many years old?" For "Who did this?" they ask: " This is, what man has
done!" For "Flow long have you been here?" this is asked: "This place
you came how many years ?' ' A classifier precedes every noun whenever it stands
in relation to numerals.

Our words herd (in herd of cattle), sheet (in sheet of paper), piece (in piece
of silk), correspond exactly to these classifiers. They indicate to what class of
thing the noun belongs. For instance, " cheung" applies to things spread out,
as a tablecover, bed, mat, etc.; " chi" applies to things round and slender, as a
pencil, bamboo, etc.; "pa" is applied to things held in the hand, as an umbrella,
fan, knife, etc.; "tin" is put before long and slender things, as cane, snake,
string, etc. There are about eighty of these classifiers.

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nultipUcity of Verbs.

The multiplicity of the Chinese verbs is very noticeable. Take our word
" carry," which is used so generally. In Chinese, to carry on the head one verb
would be used; to carry on the shoulder an entirely different word would be used;
to carry on the back another verb would be used, and to carry under the arms
another; to carry'on horseback still another, and to carry a letter a different word
would be employed. We say close your eyes, close your mouth, close your fist,
close your book, close your door, close your window; but in Chinese a different
verb must be used before each of these objects. We say to lay apart, to lay

before, to lay in, to lay down, to lay
on top, to lay together, to lay aside.
In Chinese a new verb must be intro-
duced in each one of these expressions.

At School

The Chinese that is spoken in
everyday life is as different from the
book language as a dead language is
from a living one. On visiting a
Chinese school I found that it could be
heard long before it was seen. Each
pupil learns his lesson off by heart,
repeating it over and over again till
fixed in the memory, in a loud sing-
song tone of voice, and the confused
babel of sounds produced by a large
school of boys which I visited cannot
soon be forgotten. In the school and
collegiate course, extending over years,
the whole of the classics (the four
books and the five classics) and com-
mentaries upon them are mastered,
but geography, mathematics and the
sciences are unknown in a Chinese educational course. The effect of this system
is the development of the memory and imitative faculty at the expense of every-
thing else. No school boards exist, and schools are opened independently by
teachers to gain their living or established by the gentry, and there are higher
institutions of learning having the sanction and support of the government.

In education, as in everything else, no attention is paid to women, and while
it is an exception if a man cannot sign his name, it is the great exception if a
woman can sign hers. -

A LITERARY OFFICER AND HIS WIFE.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 127

Civil Service Examinations.

The system of civil service examinations in China is quite unique in its charac-
ter, and nothing attracts the wonder and admiration of the foreigner more than
this. These examinations have been in vogue for centuries, and having originally-
started as a means of testing the ability of those already in office, it has gradually
widened its scope, till now it embraces every portion of the empire and is the test
of ability which all have to undergo who desire admission into the civil service of
the country. With this laudable ambition in view, pupils of all ages maybe seen
pursuing their studies, and grandfather, father and son may be competing at the
same time for the coveted goal.

Degrees and Promotions.

Every district city has its examination hall, where the initial trials are
conducted under the supervision of the imperial chancellor, a sub-chancellor being
in residence. Out of ever\' two thousand onl}- twenty of the best receive the
degree which the Chinese term "Sin-ts'ai," meaning "budding genius." An
original poem and one or two essays by each candidate on the subjects assigned to
them are the exercises of this examination, and during a day and a night each
contestant is shut up alone in a "stall" (there are thousands of these around
the examination hall), after being examined to see that he has no "help"
about him, and if he becomes a member of the charmed literar>' circle, his hat is
adorned with a gold button; and he is eligible to enter the triennial examination
for the second degree, styled the " Chu-jin." or " promoted scholar."

The examiners for this second test are the imperial commissioner and ten
provincial officers, and he who is successful in this can enter upon a contest for the
third degree, which is taken at the capital, Pekin, and which assures to the
successful student an office under the government. This mighty system, when
Western science is introduced, may be used as a means for the dissemination of
broader kno^dedge throughout this great empire.

Attempts at English.

I have noticed now and then evidences of a willingness on the part of the
members of this exclusive kingdom to allow the introduction of foreign ideas, and
I have been amused at their "attempts" at English. Mr. Wing Wo Hing, my
laundryman at Canton (the first one I have found in China), sent me the follow-
ing notice:

' ' We the undersign wish to inform to the friends and the public that we have
opened a laundry out of North Gate, where we will have advantage to do all
works by using spring water and dried with pure air For times, launderers, who
have used river water and dried with city air which makes clothes unpurify and

128

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dissatisfy to the public ! ' '
Doctor to leprosy

signs:

A few days ago I was startled by the following doctors'
nor doctor fee discharged," and, " i5)!>. Healer. Can

doctor to surgery line,
medicine line — All
kind illness dispensa-
tion" (dispensary).
Nor far from where I
am writing a fashion-
able merchant has this
sign in flaming letters
before his shop : ' ' Re-
tail and Wholetail ! ' '
As we have seen
the efibrts of the Chi-
naman to imitate the
language of the Eng-
lishman, we are in-
terested in observing
how John Bull first
secured an influence
over John Chinaman.
The Britisher
comes as near being
omnipresent as any
mortal on this terre-
strial ball, and his
motherland comes as
near having her flag
floating over a piece
of real estate under
every star as any na-
tion on the globe.

The oratorical
curl about the sun
never setting on Eng-
land's possessions is
not fiction.

The little island,

HEAD OF A PIRATE HUNG UPON THE ROADSIDE AT CANTON, CHINA.

that looks like a speck on the world's map, has managed, by one way and another.
to plant her colonies in every clime; and from the homeland to far India and

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 129

China, her war and mercantile ships can touch British possessions at convenient
distances, without the hue being broken during aU these thousands of miles.

I desire especially to speak of Hong Kong, a British island in Eastern waters.
In the year 1839 the Chinese authorities took strong procedures against the foreign
opium merchants; British property was destroyed, a large number of foreigners
imprisoned, and every effort was made b}' the Chinese to put a stop to this traffic
that has proven to be such a curse to the nation. Matters w^ere brought to a
crisis on the twenty-sixth of August, 1839, when foreigners were expelled from
the island, w^ar was immediately declared, and, as might have been expected,
in less than two years the British flag was planted on the island, the Bogue forts
at the mouth of the Canton River were silenced by English guns and the provincial
authorities were forced to accede to the demands of a superior power by allowing
trade to be carried on at Canton and Whampoa.

How Hong Kong Became British.

The settlement of Hong Kong was commenced in May, 1841. The following
month Hong Kong w^as declared a free port, and before the close of the same year
the population had increased to 15,000.

But John Bull did not have smooth sailing for some years. The Chinese
Emperor severely censured the imperial commissioner for the cession of Hong
Kong, and war broke out afresh. It was not until after the treaty of Nanking,
in 1842, that it was definitely settled that the island should be a British colony
and the charter bears the date of April 5, 1843.

But during the coming years the trend of affairs proved, repeatedly, that one
John yielded to the other John simply because the one John was weaker than the
other John. Here, as in so many other places where she has planted her foot,
"the other John " acted on the principle that " might makes right " — especialh-
has this been her motto when she has been in the heavenly business of introducing
the opium trade — fit harbinger, indeed, to English Christian missions!

In October of 1856 some Chinese sailors serving on the British lorcha Arrow
were taken from the vessel by the native authorities, which led to the bombard-
ment and capture of the city of Canton and the cession of the peninsula of
Kowloong and the payment of an indemnity of eight millions of taels by the
Chinese government to England.

Although T am told by the English at Hong Kong that the colony is now

firmly established, I have it from the best authority that it is viewed with hatred

and suspicion on the part of the native mandarins, and the repeated riots and the

wholesale attempt to poison the entire European communit}- by means of the

bread supplied by a Hong Kong baker, which occurred some years since, proves

that the situation is not altogether lovely.
9

I30 AROUND THE WORLD

The Island's Size and Sights.

The island, lying off the coast of the Kwaug-tuug province, at the mouth of
the Canton River and about ninety miles from the city of Canton, consists of a
rugged mountain ridge, running from east to west, broken into several peaks, the
largest of which attain an altitude of over one thousand eight hundred feet. Its
greatest length is about eleven miles, with a breadth of from two to four miles and
a circumference of about twenty-seven miles. The word Hong Kong means ' ' fra-
grant streams," and long before the arrival of the English it was customary for
Chinese vessels to get their water supply from the sparkling springs that abound
throughout the island. As 3^ou approach the city from the harbor you are
reminded of Naples. The situation is truly a magnificent one.

Most of the houses near the beach are large and handsome structures, built
of granite and well calculated to withstand the force of the typhoons, which have
done much damage in the past. Broad roads, lined with trees, wind up the
hillside from terrace to terrace. The private residences are situated principally
upon the hills, rising tier upon tier to the height of several hundred feet above the
sea level, and the large gardens, covered with a wealth of tropical plants and
flowers, give the landscape a charming effect from the sea.

The Public Gardens are said not to be excelled by those of any other British
colony, and not only are they admirably laid out and managed, seemingl}^ with
scientific skill, but they boast a number of rare trees and plants. The palm beds,
the Australian ferns, the Norfolk Island pines, and the ornamental hedge formed
of the aloe attract, at once, the attention of the visitor.

Victoria Peak.

The most enjoyable excursion on the island is a trip to Victoria Peak.

This is reached b}- an elevated tramwa}^ which is a work of great engineering
skill; and from its height, which is 1880 feet above the water, your vision sweeps
the full circumference of the island, the hill-locked harbor, dotted with ever>^
variety of craft, from the ocean steamer and warship to the slipper boat and
sampan; and far into the distance, on the mainland, can be seen numerous native
villages, built down to the water's edge; and still further awaj', with the aid of
your glass, you can count a score of islands, washed by the blue waters of the bay.

On the Chinese streets here, as elsewhere, one is bewildered by the countless
number of curios; for John Chinaman has studied the whim and fancies of the
' outer barbarian," and goods are on exhibition to suit every taste.

Chinese Goods Displayed.

In a walk of two blocks j-ou see elegant embroideries on silk and satin;
delicately carved ivory fans, ornaments, chessmen, and v^ases; walking-sticks of

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ebony, horn, ivory, and bamboo, with embossed silver knobs; fairylike bouquet
holders, and any variety of filagree work; goblets, card cases, flower baskets,
incense burners, and bangles, ear-rings, scarf pins and finger rings of intricate
workmanship; sandal-wood boxes, carved most artistically, and curiously cut horns
of the rhinoceros and water-buffalo, and inlaid ornaments made from the large

bony beak of the tou-
can.

Some of the work
of the Chinese in sil-
ver is exquisite. A
chased and embossed
salver is very attract-
ive, as the design is
often wonderfully fine
and minute in detail.
Kvery little figure has
its own peculiar ex-
pression. The tiles on
the roofs of the houses
and tiny temples are
distinguishable one
from the other, and
even the construction
of the lilliputian
bridges is plainly vis-
ible. As skilled labor
is cheap in China,
these fine pieces of
workmanship can be
obtained for amounts
only very little larger
than the actual cost of
' the silver itself.

Filagree Work.

The filagree work

-. ^"^ , -A is made somewhat dif-

■ ^ '~^ ferently from that in

CREMATORY AT CANTON, USED FOS. BURNING THE BODIES OF O O U t ll C r U EurOpC.

PRIESTS. The silver frame work

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

133

is first cut out, and gold leaf and mercury are mixed together until they form
a paste. The frame is then warmed and the amalgam rubbed in, after which it is
made quite hot to drive off the mercury, and the gilding is finished. The filagree
is made of silver wire, extremely fine in texture, and designs of every description
are worked out by the expert Chinamen with this silver cord.

The Chinese shops on Queen's road, here in Hong Kong, are more elabo-
rately ornamented than most of their shops elsewhere, and although they are only
twenty feet deep by ten or eleven wide, they contain great variety of goods.

In the native quarters the salesroom is a dimly lighted, unattractive place. At
the back of the shop a little lamp is kept burning before some small image^
surrounded by paper flowers or pots of grow-
ing plants, such as the favorite narcissus or
the dwarf orange, and on the walls are fre-
quently to be seen scrolls containing extracts
from the writings of Confucius, Mensius, and
others, extolling the dealings of the honest
tradesman and commanding courtesy toward
strangers.

When you enter the shopman approaches
you indifferently, disguising all eagerness to
drive a bargain, salutes you with the greeting
"chin-chin," and only when he sees that you
hesitate in your purchasing does he seem to
awaken to the occasion and exhibit his genius
as a salesman.

Pidgin English.

Pidgin English, a strange mixture of Eng-
lish, Chinese and Portuguese, is spoken by
most of the natives at Hong Kong, and it was not manj^ days after my arrival
before it was understood by me sufficiently to serve me for all practical purposes.

Its basis consists of turning the consonants " r " into " I " and " v " into
"b," adding a final " C}^ " or " ee " to most words, and above all, the constant
use of the word "pidgin," which means business in the most extended sense 01
the word. " Hab got good pidgin " means that the business situation is a good
one. "To-day belongee number one Heaben pidgin day" is the conventional
phrase for a day of Christian observance.

"That no belongee boy pidgin, belongee coolie pidgin" is the form of your
servant's remonstrance if you ask him to do what he thinks ought to be done by
a serv^ant of lower rank.

CHIEF MAGISTRATE, SHANGHAI.

134

AROUND THE WORI.D

Am, is, are, and the parts of the verb " to be " are generally translated by
belongee;" " hab belongee "— was; and " by m-bye belongee " — shall be.
The word "side" is used for a particular locality: " Hong Kong side hab

FARMERS AND THEIR WIVES THRESHING RICE.

got too rauchee piecee Chinaman ' ' means ' ' there are many Chinamen in Hong
Kong."

"No nan" is "impossible;" means "quickly;" "Chow-chow," "food,"
and " chin-chin " is " good-day " or " good-bye."

"I catchee dinner this side to-night" is the expression for " I dine here

to-night."

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 135

I overheard this order and reply: " Boy, go talkee amah pay me one piecee
handkerchief." " Missy, no can catchee amah; have go out."

A gentleman in Hong Kong was interrupted in his work one day by his boy,
A Ivin, who came into his office and gravely remarked: " Missy Smith hab got
one piecee small cow chilo." This was his graceful and delicate way of
announcing that Mrs. Smith had presented her husband with a daughter !

The following verses in Pidgin English are more puzzling than poetic:

Flom Fou Cliou Fou I come makey walkey,

One piecee ship, three piecee bamboo
Inside no belong, outside walkee

My plenty good sing, all plopper can do.

Chorus.

Hi zah-zah, chin chin chin.
Chow-chow welly good, mj- likee he.
Makee plenty sing song, savez by and bye.
Chinaman he plenty good, he laugh hizah.

AUee same you my face once whitey,

Wid welly long pigtail down him back.
Sailor man he come ashore, makey plenty fightee,

Pully welly niuchy hard makee face black.

Long time plenty work sampau coolie

Yangtzse river, way down Shanghai,
Me talkee lot pidgin, too muchee foolee,

Alice same pletty lady no likey I.

Lady cooky welly good, she likey chow-chow,

She lib way up topside house,
Cooky little pussy cat and little bow-wow.

Welly good pot stew, boiley wid de mouse.

AUee same pork pig, m}' likee chow-chow,

Too muchee big, no muchee small,
Topside darksky down came Chong Mow,

He makey stealy pig and chow-chow all.

Englissy consul welly much he talkee.

Puttee up him speccatel, makee look see.
Chop-chop policy man welly muchee walkee,

Chong Mow runnee, no catchee he!

CHAPTER VII.
IN THE HALAY ARCHIPELAGO.

|HE map of the eastern hemisphere shows a number of large
and small islands between Asia and Australia, forming a
continuous group distinct from these great masses of land
and having very little connection with either of them.

These islands, situated upon the equator and washed
by the water of the tropical seas, enjo}^ a more uniformly
warm climate than any other part of the globe and teem
with natural productions, many of which are found nowhere else.

The giant flowers of RaflQesia, the great green- winged ornithoptera, the prince
among butterflies, the man-like orang-outang, and the brilliant birds of paradise
are seen here.

The Mala}", having no home beyond this insular tract, is seen in his crude
and nude state, and as he possesses many marks of peculiarity, he presents many
points of interest to the student of mankind.

Your ship sails for weeks among these islands, and their several inhabitants
are often as little known to each other as are the native races of the northern and
southern continents of America.

The Malay archipelago extends for more than four thousand miles in length,
from east to west, and is about thirteen hundred miles in breadth, from north to
south. It contains three islands larger than Great Britain, and in one of them,
Borneo, all of the British isles might be set down, and they would be surrounded
by a sea of forests.

The Volcanic Belt.

One of the greatest volcanic belts upon the globe passes through the archi-
pelago, and it is said that earthquakes are of such frequent recurrence that in
many of the islands the years of these great shocks form the chronological epochs
of the native inhabitants, by the aid of which the ages of their children and the
dates of important events are determined.

By the eruption of Papandayang, in Java, during the last century, forty vil-
lages were destroyed; in the first quarter of this century 12,000 persons perished
by the lava and ashes that covered three hundred miles of sea and land, and
within recent years the island of Makiau, after two hundred 3'ears of perfect inac-
tion, suddenly burst forth, destroying nearly all of the inhabitants and plajdng
havoc for forty miles around.

WITH EYEvS WIDE OPEN,

137

Malays and Papuans.

A noted ethnologist, differing from Humboldt and others, contends that the
natives of the archipelago belong to two distinct races, the Malays and Papuans,
and that they diflfer radically in physical, mental and moral character. The
Asiatic races include the Malays, all having a continental origin, while the races
of Papuan type, including all to the east of the former as far as the Fiji Islands,
are derived not from any existing continent, but from islands which now exist, or
recently existed, in the Pacific Ocean.

It was with pleasure, after spending Christmas and the opening of the new
year in Southern China, that I em-
barked on the P. and O. steamship
' ' Rosetta ' ' for these islands, and after
experiencing some rough sea weather,
caused by the currents from the China
Sea northward, from the Malacca
Straits southward and from the Pacific
Ocean eastward, meeting at the en-
trance of the Gulf of Siam, I landed,
in fine spirits, at Singapore, the south-
ernmost point of Asia, located at the
mouth of the Malacca Straits.

Singapore is an island about thirty
miles in length and half as wide, con-
taining not much more than two hun-
dred square miles.

As we sailed up the picturesque
harbor scores of Mala}- boys and men,
nearly completely nude, in narrow
' ' dugouts, ' ' rowed by our side, chat-
tering and jumping up and down like
monkeys, and as small coins were
tossed into the transparent water from
the moving ship they would dive for them and, without exception, the sinking
money was in the hands of one of these wonderful divers when they arose to the
surface of the water.

At times you could see these diving figures struggling fiercely among them-
selves under the clear water for the coin, and when the victor came up, holding
his closed fist in the air, they all sprang in their little boats, tumbling on the
waves, kicked the water out of them wnth one foot, exclaiming "Nay-a-yah!"
"Nay-a-yah!" ("One more!" "One more!").

MALAY MAX.

138

AROUND THE WORLD

Passing up the streets of Singapore the products of the island were seen on
every hand. Tapioca, cocoanut oil, gambia, lead, tin, indigo, coral, gutta-percha,
hides, gums, camphor and many like productions were being packed for shipment
on the outward steamer for the west, and the market stalls were brilliant with the
greatest variety of flowers and fruit.

Near the Equator.

It is quite impossible to give a life likeness of the bright scenes that greet
you in this city, located less than a degree from the equator.

NATIVES OF SINGAPORE.

Here you find perpetual summer; here the almost naked natives give full
satisfaction to their pride and modesty by binding the scarlet handkerchiefs about
their heads and confining one thickness of narrow cotton cloth about their bodies,
with flaming sashes. The pure white, hump-backed oxen, driven singly to
harness, move sedately through the streets, drawing a tremendous load, with a
tar- black Malay, wearing ear-rings, perched on top.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 139

Now 3'ou pass rows of houses built high up iu the air upon stilts, to give
wide berth to snakes and other reptiles that abound iu this region. Yonder the
wayside is bordered by the graceful rattan, the lofty cocoanut tree, ripening its
fruit iu clusters at the top, the waving bamboo and the brilliant hedges of the
tropics. Here you see growing wild the wonderful fan-pahn that springs up iu the
exact shape of an outspread feather fan and reaches the height of forty feet.
The street peddler pleads with you to buy a dozen of his luscious pineapples for
ten or fifteen cents, and if }-ou have no money you can run into the jungle nearby
and get a dinner of fruit, with no one to molest or make you afraid. *

I know of no place on the globe where a person's food and clothes need cost

him so little as just here, and the people do not seem to be any less happy because

of this fact.

Products and People.

In the celebrated botanical gardens near the city are gathered together all
possible representatives of the trees, plants, fruits and flowers of the archipelago,
and these are surrounded by the most beautiful landscape gardening.

Within the limits of these gardens there thrive the bread fruit tree, palms,
dates, figs, mangoes, mangosteens; the acacia flamboyante, whose top boughs are
covered with scarlet flowers, with yellow centres; the stephanotis and alamanda
in full bloom; the Egyptian lotus; the Victoria Regia, growing upon a lake, with
leaves wide and strong enough to support a child upon the surface of the water,
and acres of tropical growths in the greatest variety and abundance.

The Sultan of Johore.

A mile beyond the gardens we visited one of the palaces of the Sultan of
Johore. The late Sultan died at Bailey's Hotel, London, a short time ago,
and the present ruler of the small kingdom separated from Singapore by a
narrow strip of water, is proving himself to be more progressive than the
former Sultan,

This young man, twenty-two j^ears of age, was educated in England, and in
his European attire he looks more like an English swell than a "heathen"
chief.

It would be hard to find anywhere in the world as many kinds of people
gathered together in so small a space as you find in the community of Singapore.
The government, the garrison and the chief merchants are English; most of the
money-exchangers and mechanics are Chinamen; the boatmen, fishermen and
police are native Malays; the clerks and small merchants are largely Portuguese
of Malacca; the petty dealers and shopkeepers are the Klings of West India and
Arabs, who are Mahometans; the grooms and washermen are all Bengalees; the
money sharks are Parsees; the sailors and servants are mostly Javanese, and

140

AROUND THE WORLD

hundreds of traders in tin, lead, skins, shells and corals congregate here from
Celebes, Bali, Borneo, vSumatra and other islands of the archipelago.

Town and Suburbs.

The harbor presents a busy scene. Men-of-war and many trading vessels of
European nations, hundreds of Malay praus and Chinese junks and any number

of sampans and slip-
per-boats move over
the quiet waters of the
harbor.

The town com-
prises handsome pub-
lic buildings and
churches, Mahometan
mosques, Hindu tem-
ples, Chinese joss-
houses, massive Eu-
ropean warehouses,
queer old Kling and
Chinese bazaars and
long suburbs of Chi-
nese and Malay cot-
tages.

In the jungles,
uncomfortably near the
town, are to be found
wild beasts, and dur-
ing the night not sel-
dom can you hear the
roar of these unwel-
come neighbors. Sev-
eral miles from the
hotel where I was a
guest you are shown
tiger-pits, carefully
covered over with
sticks and leaves, and
so well concealed that
there is danger of a person being entrapped unless he is watchful. The)^ are
shaped like an iron furnace, wider at* the bottom than the top, fifteen or twenty

MALAY C1III.DRKN.

traveler's palm, SINGAPORE.

(141)

142

AROUND THE WORI^D

feet deep and a sharp stake was stuck erect in the bottom until in recent years,
when this was forbidden on account of an unfortunate traveler being killed by
falling on one.

A sail of twenty-eight hours from Singapore brought us to Penang, the most

northerly seaport of
the Malacca Straits.

This island, four-
teen miles long by
seven wide, is situ-
ated at the point
where the straits open
into the Indian Ocean,
one hundred miles
from the Island of
Sumatra, and the
(own of Penang
nestles near the
water, with a back-
ground of thickly
wooded hills that cul-
minate in three moun-
tain peaks.

As our steamer
anchored a half a mile
from shore, we were
taken in a highly col-
ored native boat to
the landing-place, and
soon we were on a
crowded street of this
interesting little city.
The lithe and
graceful figures of the
men and women at-
tract attention imme-
diately, and frequently
as these nearly nude natives pose along the roadside they look like exquisite
works in bronze. The women, strange to sa}^ are very fond of ornaments, and
with their ear-rings, nose-ring, arm and ankle bracelets present a most picturesque
appearance, which is heightened by their brilliant single garment.

GROUP IN MAI^AY ARCHIPELAGO.

COCOA.

(143)

144

AROUND THE WORLD

The Cocoanut Tree.

Here is found the arcea palm, better known as the Penang tree, the source of
the betel-nut; but the place is noted especially as the headquarters of the cocoanut
tree. This growth is simply wonderful. We drove through a cocoanut tree grove
of 2000 acres, and the view of these lofty trees, keeping an upright position, with

the heavy loads in
their tufted tops, is
one of the most re-
markable sights in the
tropics. The tree gives
annually several crops,
without artificial cul-
tivation; three hun-
dred and sixty uses,
it is said, can be made
of its trunk, branches,
leaves, fruit and juice,
and there are over
twenty distinct spe-
cies of the fruit flour-
ishing in and around
the town. With the
rapidit}' of a monkey,
I saw a native climb
over fort}' feet to the
top of a tree, and, after
twisting off a cocoa-
nut, was on the ground
again in a few seconds.
After visiting the bo-
tanical gardens, the
fruit market, where a
basket of delicious
mangosteens was
bought, and after see-
ing a brilliant Malay

AN ORANG-OUTANG FROM PENANG.

marriage
blow.

and funeral procession, I set sail for Ceylon, where the spicy breezes

To the naturalist the islands of the Malay Archipelago present fields for his
researches which cannot be surpassed, if equaled, in the world. Beasts, birds.

(145)

TO

146

AROUND THE WORI.D

and insects of every description are found in this insular group and many of these
are peculiar to this region of the globe.

The Orang=Outang.

The interest with which I watch the gyrations of a monkey is only exceeded
by the amusement afforded me by the performances of the orang-outang. Although

ni}'- taste may be fear-
fully at fault, I am bold
to say that nothing
here in the Malay Ar-
chipelago has given
me more real pleasure,
has inspired more
hearty laughs and has
furnished more food
for reflection than my
lengthy interviews
with his majesty, the
orang-outang of Bor-
neo.

I am not quite
sure whether he un-
derstood what I said,
to him, and it is
equally probable that
I did not understand
very much that he
.said to me, but I was
impressed with the
fact that he was one
of the most intelligent
inhabitants of the is-
lands, with a keen
sense of humor and a
good fund of com-
mon sense, and when
we shook hands in

AN ORANG-OUTANG FROM PENANG— THE TEMPERANCE QUESTION.

our touching farewell I, at least, felt like saying we meet to part, but may it be
that we part to meet again! Here are the native haunts of this great man-
like ape, and here you can see and study him untouched by the artificial and

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN,

147

detrimental influences of Mr. Barnum, Mr. Forepaugh and the other masters of
the circus ring.

The wide extent of lofty virgin forest is necessary to the untrammeled glory
of his orang-outangship, and here he is as much at home as the Indian on the
prairie or the Arab on the desert. The quiet leisure, if not the majestic dignity,
with which he makes his way through the forests affords a stinging rebuke to the
fussy, fuming, dashing citizen of this electric-car age in which we live.

He walks deliberately along some of the larger branches of the trees in the
semi-erect attitude which the great length of his arms and the shortness of his
legs cause him naturally to assume; and as he walks on his knuckles, and not on

PAPUAN CHILDREN.

the palm of the hand, the disproportion between these limbs is increased, and
while in locomotion it is not highly probable that a Grecian artist would select him
as a model of grace.

He does not jump or spring or even appear to hurry himself, and yet he
manages to make as quick speed as one who is running through the forests
beneath.

The male orang-outang, unlike his inconsiderate human brother in America,
helps his wife make up the bed. When wounded or when bedtime comes a nest,
or bed, is quickly made from the sticks and leaves of the trees, and one who has

148 AROUND THE WORLD

hunted this animal a great deal tells me that a fresh one is made everj^ night.
I^ike the other natives of these islands, he takes life easy, not leaving his bed
until the sun has well risen and has dried the dew on the leaves, feeding during
the middle of the day, and never seeming to worry himself upon the grave ques-
tions of state, commerce and religion that create headaches and heartaches for the
more civilized, but less contented, nations of the globe.

They are not onl}^ easily satisfied, as is well known, in the matter of clothing,
but their diet is a very simple one, consisting almost exclusively of fruit, with
some tender buds and shoots for occasional dessert.

Despite the jokes that we are prone to make at his expense, the orang-outang
is an elevated character. He rarely descends to the ground except when the
market in the trees has failed him, or when the hollows of the leaves do not
contain sufl&cient water for his refreshment.

Although the orang-outang is peacefull}' inclined and desires ever^-bod}- to
attend to his own business, as he does, 3-et he is no coward, and when aroused by
what he regards to be an act of injustice or persecution he is a terror. When
driven by hunger to hunt shoots and roots along the water's edge the crocodile has
been known to protest against this innocent mode of making his living, but he has
in every case recorded in history established his rights without much ceremony.

The chief of the Balow D3^aks gives this testimony: "The orang-outang has
no enemies; no animals dare attack it but the crocodile and the python. He
always kills the crocodile by main strength, standing upon it, pulling open its
jaws and ripping up its throat. If a pj^thon attacks the orang-outang he seizes
it with his hands and then bites it, and soon kills it. There is no animal in the
jungle so strong as he."

It is remarkable that an animal so peculiar and possessing such a high type
of form as the orang-outang should be confined to two islands, Borneo and Java,
especially as these are almost the least inhabited by the higher mammalia.

As doubtless the orang-outang, the chimpanzee and the gorilla have had their
forerunners, the naturalist must look forward with interest to the time when the
deposits of the tropics shall make known the history and earliest appearance of the
great man-like apes, who, if. they are not the " missing links," are ridiculously
like some of us who make sport of them !

A Brilliant Bird.

In striking contrast to the curious and comical creature just described, allow
me to present a brilliant and beautiful bird, another inhabitant of these islands,
namely, the bird of paradise.

The paradiseidse, as they are classed, are a grotip of birds allied somewhat in
their structure and habits to starlings and the Australian honeysuckers, but they

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

149

are characterized by extraordinary developments of plumage, which are unequaled
in any other family of birds.

In some of the species large tufts of delicate bright-colored feathers spring
from each side of the body beneath the wings, forming fans or shields, and
the middle feathers of the tail are often elongated into wires, twisted into the
most fantastic shapes or adorned with the most brilliant metallic colors. We find
that in other species these plumes spring from the head, the back or the shoulders,
and the tails are of varied shapes.

I had no idea, until I visited the Malay archipelago, that there are as many
species of the bird of paradise as are
to be seen on the Islands of Borneo
and Java. The great bird of paradise^
the lesser bird of paradise, the red
bird of paradise, the king bird of para-
dise, the double- mantle bird of para-
dise, the superb bird of paradise, the
six-shafted bird of paradi.se, the stand-
ard wing bird of paradise, and the
scale-breasted paradise bird, are all
marked by different colored and .shaped
plumage, and although they are classed
under the .same general name, they
are quite distinct in many respects.

It has aflforded me much pleasure
to gather, from one source and another,
a great deal of information about this
the most beautiful bird in the world,
but I shall try to describe only two or
three classes of the bird, which may
give your readers a faint conception of
their beauty and brilliancy.

The largest species known is the
great bird of paradise, which is seventeen or eighteen inches from the beak to the
tip of the tail. The entire top of the head and neck is a delicate straw-yellow,
the feathers resembling plush or velvet; the lower part of the throat up to the
eyes is clothed with scaly feathers of an emerald green color, with a rich metallic
gloss, and velvety plumes of a still deeper green extend in a band across the fore-
head and chin as far as the eyes, which are bright yellow, and the body, wings
and tail are of a rich coffee-brown, which deepens on the breast to a blackish-violet
or purple-brown.

K.\NDYAN CHIEF OR HEADMAN.

I50

AROUND THE WORLD

The two middle feathers of the tail have no webs at all except at the base and
extreme tip, and from each side of the body beneath the wings springs a dense
tuft of long and delicate plumes, sometimes two feet in length, of the intensest
golden orange color and very glossy, changing toward the tips into a pale brown.
The thick tuft can be elevated and spread out at pleasure so as almost to hide the
bod)^ of the bird.

This brilliant plumage, strange to narrate, is entirely confined to the gen-
tlemen, while the lady is really a very plain and ordinary-looking bird of a
uniform coffee color, possessing neither the long tail wires nor a single green or
yellow feather about the head. As might be expected, the male birds do most of

the talking, and their shrill note,

wawk-wawk-wawk-wok-wok-wok, ' '
can be heard for miles, but what do-
mestic experience occasions this alarm-
ing cry of the husband the naturalist
has not yet informed us.

The mode of nidification is un-
known, but the natives inform us that
the nests are made of leaves, placed
on ants' nests or some projecting limb
of a tall tree, and each nest contains
only one bird.

The birds are shot with blunt
arrows, so as not to injure the plu-
mage by a drop of blood, and they are
stuffed by the natives with the greatest
care.

The side plumes of the red bird
of paradise, instead of being yellow,
are rich crimson, and the ends are
curved downward and inward and are tipped with white. The rich metallic green
of the throat extends ov^er the front half of the head beyond the eyes and a
double crest of scaly feathers is formed on the forehead.

Perhaps the rarest and most brilliant of the whole group is the superb bird
of paradise.

The ground color of the plumage is intense black, with beautiful bronze
reflections on the neck, and the whole head covered with feathers of brilliant
metallic green and blue. It supports a shield over its breast of a bluish-green
color, with a satiny gloss, and back of the neck it bears another shield, much
larger, of a velvety black color, glossed with bronze and purple. At first sight.

A KANDYAN GIRL.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

151

the plumage of the six-shafted paradise bird seems to be black, but in certain
lights it glows with bronze and deep purple; its throat and breast are of a golden
hue, changing to green and blue tints; the back of the head contains a curved
band of feathers, resembling the sheen of emerald and topaz more than organic
substance, and from the sides of the head spring the six feathers from which the
bird receives its name.

But as my vocabularj* of color names is about spent, I must cease the futile
attempt to give a word-painting of this bird, clothed by nature with all the hues
of the rainbow.

PHARIv FISHERIES 0? CHYI.ON.

CHAPTER VIII.
THE SPICY BREEZES OF CEYLON.

OME years ago I was in the Louvre Gallery in Paris, and I was nearly
as much interested in watching the performances of some of the
visitors as I was in the great masterpieces. To have the pleasure of
saying afterward that the}' had seen these miles of pictures, seemed to
be the object of manj^ who were hurrying through the galleries, and
"to do" the whole thing in a few hours appeared to be a greater
masterpiece to some than any work that hung on the walls.
The tourist who desires merely to trot around the globe can touch at the
Japan and China treaty ports, sail through the Malay archipelago, take one snifE
of the spicy breezes at Cej'lon, dash through the wonders of India, from Bombay
hurry on to Egypt, scratch his initials on the pyramids, take a leap, skip and a
jump through Europe, and look upon the Statue of Liberty again in a few months.
His friends, laboring under the delusion that this quick-step globe-trotter has seen
the world, heartily congratulate him, and he is blissfully ignorant of what he has
missed.

Roughing It.

As in other countries, it is quite impossible to get the faintest idea of the
topography, the flora, and the fauna of Ceylon, and the customs and habits of the
people, unless you, at any inconvenience, visit the villages and jungles of the
interior.

The engagements of my pleasant companion from Baltimore necessitated him
to leave me in Southern China, and about six weeks were spent largely by me in
' ' roughing it ' ' among the natives, miles from the sea coasts. As a few days were
quite sufficient to see the sights of Colombo, I soon took train across the island
of Ceylon, and after fours' ride the old historic city of Kandy was reached.

!n Ceylon's Forests.

The talipot palm, found in Ceylon, grows to the height of seventy or eighty
feet; at the age of forty years it blooms, for the first time, with a loud report, and
almost immediately dies.

During this railroad trip we passed cinnamon gardens, sweetly fragrant, not
from the bloom or berry, but from the wounded bark while being gathered at the
semi-annual harvest. Then followed widespread coffee plantations, the cultiva-
tion of which formed one of the greatest industries of Ceylon, until it was

(152^

TALIPOT PALM.

(153)

154

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suddenly checked some years since by the leaf fungus that impoverished so
many of the planters. In dense forests we had pointed out to us fine speci-
mens of the ebony, satinwood, palms, bamboos, fragrant balsams, tree ferns,
anaconda-like-rooted India-rubber trees, and the bread-fruit tree, with its deeply
serrated, feathery leaves and its melon-shaped fruit, weighing from three to four
pounds.

This bread-fruit is prepared for eating in many ways, a few trees supporting
a large family, and, as the trees bear fruit continually for nine months of the year,
it is one of the most valued trees found in these tropical forests.

DR. TUPPKR AND MR. H.A.RMON IN CEVI.GN.

I was very much interested in the cardamon and pepper bushes, loaded with
fruit, and what is known as the kitool palm, yielding its harvest of sugar, toddy

and sago.

My companion in the coach, who is an enthusiastic and lifelong student of
birds, explained the peculiar nest of the tailor bird, which sews leaves together
and constructs a pretty nest inside of them; the weaver bird's ne.st, with entrance
tubes over two feet in length, and the pendant nests, built by a kind of wasp, in
the high trees. .„

TAI.IPOT PAT,M.

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AROUND THE WORLD.

On the riountains.

Fifty miles out from Colombo we entered the grand mountain plateau and
ranges of the interior, where lies the territory comprised within the Kandj'an
Kingdom, which maintained its independence all through the Dutch and Portu-
guese eras, until the British conquered it in the year in which Waterloo was fought.

As the train slowh' climbed into the mountains, the terraced rice fields, in
vivid green, looked like giant stairwa3^s up the mountain side, covered with iheir

TWO-WHEEI, BUtLOCK CART.

verdant carpets, and presented a striking contrast with the darker coloring of the
plantations and jungles. While we were passing around "Sensation Rock," to
the left, only a narrow path was visible, and the coaches seemed to tremble on the
edge of the abyss. A thousand feet below, the irrigated valle3's stretched far in the
distance, and towering above the other peaks, with no background save the flushed
evening sky, was the " Bible Rock," as if waiting silently for the finger of the
Creator to write upon it a new commandment.

is8

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The City of Kandy.

As we pursued our serpeutine way the city of Kandy could be seen miles
away, perched in a basin of the mountains, 200 feet above the level of the sea.
My window in the Queen's Hotel looks out upon a lake three miles in circumfer-
ence, built by the last Kandyan king, and around its clear waters has been laid
out a beautiful drive, which is alive every afternoon with every variety of vehicle,
from the two-wheel bullock cart of the Singhalese to the four-in-hand coach of the
European, who has his short yearly residence in this picturesque spot.

CART IX CENTRAL CEYLON,

Quite contrary to my usual custom, I arose early the first morning of my stay
in Kandy and, during a walk of several miles in the neighboring jungles, I gath-
ered fifteen varieties of wild flowers, many of which I had not seen in my rambles
nearer the seacoast. During this walk I became interested in many things beside
the abundance of the flora. Noticing a coars2 cloth bag hung from the limb of a
tree, which was being swung by a stout native man, American -like, I made an
examination and found that the thoughtful husband was rocking the new-bom
baby to sleep, while the wife was cracking rocks on the roadside. The father
looked very much bored, but the mother appeared quite contented. As long as

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the baby was in the bag asleep I should think that he would be as willing to take
care of it as to crack rocks.

Women and girls were met carrying children astraddled their hips, instead of
on their backs, as elsewhere in the East, and whole families were seen taking their
morning baths at the street pump. Men, I noticed, were honest enough to reveal,
rather than conceal, their natural vanity by wearing brilliant nose- and ear-rings,
while the women, true to nature, were more modest in this respect. Washermen and
washerwomen were gathered by scores along the banks of a mountain stream,
washing the clothes of Europeans by rubbing them in the water and beating them
with rods, while they were stretched out afterward on great, flat rocks. The early
fruit-seller was on the streets with his basket of cocoanuts for a few pennies and
his bunch of fifty bananas for ten cents.

A short drive from the hotel brought us to the celebrated botanical gardens,
which are said to contain 25,000 species of plants, and after spending hours
driving over miles of avenues that are bordered and overhung by tropical growth,
I was prepared to believe the statement of the Ce^donese, that here is found the
finest collection of plants in the world.

The name of Kaudy is associated with the ancient temple of Maligawa, or
the Temple of the Tooth, where the sacred tooth of Buddha has been preserved,
it is said, for more than fifteen hundred 3'ears. Because of this precious relic, the
king and priests of Burmah and Siam continue to send valuable gifts to the temple
annualh*; and the sacred bo tree, near by, is reported to be the oldest historical
tree in the world, its record having been kept since three hundred years before the
Christian era.

The reputed tooth of the great Buddha is about the size of the tusk of a large
boar, and is enclosed in an immense casket, decked with costly gems. What a
terror this grinder would be to modern dentists, and how we shudder to think
that perhaps the founder of Buddhism woke up one night with an ache in this
identical monster of a tooth.

An enjoyable day was spent in driving through the tea plantations near the
city, and visiting a tea factory, where I was shown the ' ' stages ' ' of the tea from
the time that it comes fresh from the field until it is ready for the foreign market.
Tea grows vigorously in Ceylon from the southwest coast districts up to planta-
tions 6500 feet above sea level; and the higher the altitude the more delicate are
the teas produced, but less the crop per acre.

Ceylon Tea Cultivation.

The Ceylon tea cultivation is different from that found in Japan and China,
and it is claimed that the purest article on the market is shipped from this island.
The tea bushes are planted in lines at regular distances over large tracts of land,

i62 AROUND THE WORLD

carefully drained, which is weeded every mouth. Once a year the bushes are
pruned down to a height of about two feet, and two months after the pruning the
first " flush " of young shoots is ready to be plucked, and during the height of
the season the flushes reoccur every ten days. Natives, mostly women and girls,
with small baskets attached to their girdles, go round and pluck the bud and a
couple of the tender, half-developed leaves. Twice a day the gathered leaves are
weighed and taken into the factor^', where they are spread thinh^ on trays or
shelves to wither.

The withered leaf is now placed in the rolling-machine, driven by water or
steam, the rolling lasting for half an hour, and from the moist mass of twisted and
bruised leaves there freely comes the juice, technicalh' called "the roll." The
roll is placed in trays to ferment or oxidize, and during this process it changes
from a green to a copper color. After fermentation, upon which depends the
subsequent strength and flavor of the tea, the roll is thinly spread on trays and
placed either over charcoal stoves or in large iron drying-machines, and in less
time than an hour it is thoroughly crisp and dried.

The tea is now sorted or sized by being passed through sieves of different
meshes, giving the varieties of Pekoe, broken Pekoe, Souchong, Congou and
dust. Then comes tlie final processes of weighing, packing and shipping. In
Ceylon much more attention is given just now to the production of tea than of
coffee and spices, and while in 1873 the exports of tea from the island were onlj^
twenty-three pounds, in 1895 they were 40,000,000 pounds, and 150,000 acres are
under cultivation, with 700 European planters and 165,000 Indian and Singhalese
laborers engaged on the tea plantations of Ceylon.

The riarriage Ceremony.

Late on Sunday night I received a ' ' chit ' ' from a friend telling me of a swell
Singhalese wedding that was to occur next morning, and suggesting that I get
my tea and toast by six o'clock and be ready for the carriage that would be at my
door at 6.30, as the marriage festivities would last all da3^

The early morning drive of ten miles along the beach, with the blue Indian
Ocean to my right, and the green-tufted cocoanut trees to my left, was refreshing
and delightful, and just as the music on the tom-tom at the bridegroom's house
was well begun we passed through the throng of people on the street and the
crowd of relatives of the groom in the front room. We were ushered into a com-
partment which was decorated most elaborately with pictures of Buddha, the
royal family of England, actresses and celebrated brands of American tobacco.
In the centre of the room was a huge flower-covered cake, to be presented at the
proper time by the groom to the bride. The cousin of the bridegroom took us in
charge, and as he spoke English very well, his explanations during the day threw

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light upon mail}- of the nu'steries of this marriage, according to the complicated
rites of the Buddhist religion.

It is the custom for the relatives only of the groom to gather before the mar-
riage at his father's house, and as these numbered several hundred, we were
entertained by watching these Singhalese men, women and children, some in
native, and others in half-European costumes, gathering in the rooms preparatory
to taking up the march for the house of the bride's father.

Six married women, nearest related to the groom (^with the exception of his
mother, who was not seen during the performances), were ushered in with great
pomp, and I am quite sure that Barnum's agent never caught anything alive so won-
derful as these painted, brilliantly costumed, powdered creatures ! My self-appointed
informer whispered to me that it was the first time that these women had tried to
dress like Europeans and Americans, and when I quietly said "remarkable," he
seemed quite satisfied with the effect produced.

The flower girls from the groom's house were dressed in bright bodices,
white skirts, flaming red stockings, and, as it was a dry, hot day, several of them
were shod with brand new, shining rubbers! But some of the part\' were sensible
enough not to trj' to imitate Western dress, and these looked attractive and
graceful in their hatte, cambaya and kabakumththu.

When the groom appeared in the handsome Singhalese dress worn by the
upper classes, ever^'one rose, shook hands with him, and the march was begun for
the bride's home. Our carriage was placed next to the one containing the happy
young man, and with him we equalh' divided the attention of the groups on the
corners, who were expecting to see only the relatives of the groom and Singhalese
followers of Buddha.

For four miles along the beach of the Indian Ocean, through cocoanut and
palm groves, and along the cinnamon gardens, we moved slowh* until sud-
denly there burst upon our ears the noise of many voices and the clatter of the
tom-tom, and our carriages were surrounded by the relatives of the bride, who
gave evidence of their joy by the indescribable movements of their bodies and
heads and the clapping of their hands.

A white cloth was stretched over several hundred ^-ards from the door of the
liouse, w^hite canopies w^ere held aloft bj'' gayly dressed young women; the father,
"Uncles, brothers and other male relatives of the bride came forward in stately
procession; several tom-toms, each surrounded by five vigorous persons, gave
forth the most excruciating music; the female relations of the bride from near and
far, dressed, if possible, more remarkably than the females of the other house,
gathered in the front rooms, and after the bride had been adorned in a lace
jacket brought her b}' the bridegroom, which was placed over her other bridal
attire, she was led in, and for more than an hour she sat upon an elevated seat.

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made for the purpose, in the centre of the room— the bashful, if not blushing,
object of the cruel scrutiny of curious eyes.

The girl bride had just passed her fourteenth year; her white satin costume

fitted not much better
Ihau the clothes of
luiglish women; her
])Oor cramped feet
looked little at ease in
the white slippers, and
lier long bridal veil,
with the price tag
still on it, w^as fast-
ened to her jet-black
hair with silver pins
and white, red and
pink flowers, and
hung gracefully over
her hazel-brown face.
After the scruti-
n i z i n g process was
over, and all the
members of the two
houses had examined
lier from every point
of view, the bride was
lielped from her chair
by the married women
of the groom's house,
and she was soon
standing with her
lover on a raised mat,
covered with wdiite
-loth, in the large
middle room, in the
immediate presence of
their maternal uncles.
The marriage

ceremony, according to the religion of Buddha, was conunenced by the senior
uncle; parts of it were repeated b)" the younger uncles; the thumbs of the couple
were tied together with white cord, over which was poured cold water; the cords

TAMII^S, CEYI^ON.

WITH KYES WIDE OPEN.

167

were untied, and the groom placed two rings on the bride's finger and she
put two rings on his. The gray-haired father of the groom then waved over the
pair a tray containing lighted tapers, and the Buddhist ceremon}^ was closed with
words of advice to the new-made husband and wife and with the announcement
that presents were in order. The young husband presented his wife with a satin
dress and jacket, which were put on her publicly by two w^omen, who looked like
they had been kissing the inside of a flour-barrel. The bride's father gave to his

TE.\ PACKING AND WEIGHING.

son-in-law a pile of rupees (a rupee is about twent3--seven cents of our money),
which were counted and the amount — six hundred and five — was announced, and
a tract of land as a dower, and then smaller presents followed.

After a general hand-shaking, which was the only mode of congratulation,
the procession moved off toward the office of the registrar, where the record of
the marriage was made according to English laws. The proposition that I made,
through my interpreter, to have a photograph taken of the bridal party, was

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agreed to most heartily by the 3-oung couple, and at the groom's house, in
the afternoon, an obliging photographer secured excellent views of the merr}^
crowd. As I was bidding farewell to them a cousin of the bridegroom, to whom

I had been speaking
of certain customs in
America, said to me
in broken English:
" I have fixed it for
you, if you like, to
give kiss to the bride.
Would you like?"
I shall not give to
the public ni}' reply.

LOW CASTE TAMIL GIRL.

creepers. The wild forests in which they 1
porcupines, iguanas, peacocks and jungle

The Wild Hen of
Ceylon.

Far back in the
central and eastern,
provinces of Ceylon,
away from all civil-
izing influences, is
found a class of hu-
man beings that live
very much like the
beasts of the forest,
and from their ap-
pearance, customs
and language the
conclusion has been
reached that they are
the aborigines of the
country'.

The}' live on the
game the)' kill, the
fish they catch, the
roots and seeds of
certain aquatic plants
and jungle plants and
ive abound in elk, deer, hogs, monkeys,
fowls, all of which they kill with their

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

169

bows and arrows except the iguana, which they run down with their dogs. The
steaks from the larger animals they dry in the sun, and these are eaten raw, with
salt. The rotten wood of a tree called bala is beaten to powder, kneaded into a
paste with honey and baked into cakes, which serve them as bread. It is said
when all other means of sustenance fail them they boil the leaves of the kora
or tora trees, which grow abundantly everywhere in the jungle. They never
use firearms, but the bows and arrows are used with great skill, with which they
kill the bear, the panther and other formidable animals.

MT. I^AVINIA HOTEL, COLOMBO, CEYLON.

These wild men never smoke, they know nothing of intoxicating drinks and
drink nothing but water. Some of them live in trees, and if thej^ have huts they
are constructed in the rudest manner, composed of a mere roof of three or four
sloping poles, one end of which is placed in the ground and the other end is
supported by a cross-stick placed on two perpendicular ones. The huts are covered
with bark of trees or dried grass. As they seldom stay more than two or three
months in one place these stick and grass houses can easily be removed.

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The men wear a string round their middle, with a narrow piece of cloth
attached; the women wear a cloth something like an apron; the hair of both sexes
is never cut, their bodies are never washed except by the rain, and they never
have been known to laugh.

The Devil Dances.

The use of medicine is not known among them, and in case of sickness the
demon priest is sent for, who leads what is known as the devil dances around the
sick person, chanting certain incantations, which are supposed to propitiate the
demon who is causing the illness. No respect is paid to the dead; the body is

thrown into the jungles to be de-
\'oured by the wild beasts, and, as far
as it has been ascertained, the}' have
no notion at all of a future .state.

The class known as the hill Ved-
das is of a savage and ferocious dis-
position. They dress only in a small
apron of plaited leaves; the women
are scarcely ever seen, and the}' dwell
in the deepest recesses of the woods
or among the rocks in the hill countr}',
living entirely on what nature affords
them, especially roots, leaves and bugs.

Trade with Outsiders.

I am told that they obtain the
iron heads for their arrows in the fol-
lowing manner: They carry a quantity
of dried flesh and honey to a place
near the residence of a Singhalese
blacksmith and hang it up on a tree out of the reach of dogs and jackals, together
with a leaf cut in the shape of the iron article they want. If the blacksmith
does not make the exchange speedily, he will hear from the wild man in a more
vigorous" manner.

The language of these sons of the forests and mountains defies all analysis,
and no one has been found who can interpret their mutterings. When the Prince
of Wales visited Colombo, some years ago, several of these creatures were cap-
tured and brought into the circle of civilization for him to see, but when at liberty
again they fled back to the freedom of the forests, where each, as a prince of
nature, enjoyed the royal right, unlike the English prince, of doing as he pleased.

COI.OMBO HIGH CASTK.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

171

With Arabi Pasha.

Through the kindly consideration of a gentleman from Scotland, who has a
large tea estate in the interior of Ceylon, I was enabled to have an interview of
several hours with Arabi Pasha, the -famous Egyptian, who is a prisoner of state
and an exile from his native land by the authority of the English government.

This man, whose exploits in the \ear 1.S82 attracted the attention of the
world, lives in an humble bungalow on the outskirts of the old cit}- of Kandy,
and with a pension of fift}' pounds a month, sent him by the government at Cairo,
supports a family of twentj^-five persons.

On mv arrival at his residence he met me at the door in quite a democratic
manner, and after a hearty grasp of the
hand and a few expressions of saluta-
tion he was soon, without the least hesi-
tation, discussing his varied and thrilling
experiences.

He is a magnificent specimen of an
Eg3'ptian, being six feet and two inches
in height and v.^eighing about two hun-
dred and sixty pounds, and when he
became aroused, while describing h.\y,
efforts to give freedom and independ-
ence to his people, he .stood erect,
threw back his great head and looked
ever\' inch a hero.

The Pasha's Account.

His English is .somewhat broken,
but it was, wdthout difficulty, that I fol-
lowed his eloquent words, which at times
stirred me thoroughlj' and elicited ray
sympathy.

' ' I am a prisoner of state, ' ' he said, ' ' and I cannot discuss current politics,
but as matters have changed in Egypt and as the reformation that I attempted to
bring about is gradually taking place, I am willing to give to you and to the
American press an account of my life and the motives that prompted my actions
in 1882. I confess that I wanted to see my country free, and for this freedom and
for the deliverance of my people from internal and external corruption I staked my
life and my all. I think now. as I thought then, that the God above has given to
different peoples different lands, and the inhabitants of tho.se lands should be left
to control them if they are willing to have law and order.

SINGHAI.HSE MAN.

172

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" I wanted to do for m}' countr}- what Washington did for his, and if I had
been successful, to-day I would be loved and honored in my own country, instead
of being an exile from my home on this island. It is not for me, in my position,
to sa}' anything against the great power of England that conquered me, but all the
facts are becoming known and perhaps during my lifetime I shall be put right
before the world.

" If I am allowed to return to my native land, I promise never again to take
part in public affairs unless my people call me to lead them, and as the movements

AX ELEPHANT MARCH.

that I started are largely being carried out by others, and as my ideas are being
adopted practically in Eg>'pt, my presence there could not possibly do harm. I do
not want to die an exile from home."

The Rebellion of 1882.

These are nearly the exact words of Arabi Pasha, but as some of 3'our readers
may not recall the facts of the rebellion that he led, I shall briefl}^ give them. In
the latter months of 1881 Arabi, an Egyptian peasant, but a man of great courage

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

173

and genius, who had risen to one of the highest positions in the service of the
Khedive, became enraged by the absolute and grossh^ abused power of the Turkish
ruling caste, and through his leadership the Khedive, himself a Turk, was forced
to grant his subjects a
parliament and con-
stitution on Western
models.

Under the new
order Arabi was ap-
pointed minister of
war and immediately
addressed himself to
certain reforms that
were greatly needed
in the country. The
n e w constitutional
ministers were recog-
nized by all the Eu-
ropean powers, includ-
ing England, and at
that time Arabi and
his followers were
greeted as reformers.
But the foreign cred-
itors of Egypt think-
ing that their financial
interests were endan-
gered under a govern-
ment so democratic,
took alarm, and such
pressure was brought
to bear upon the Eng-
lish government that,
largely through the
influence of Lord

/ •••i^

ARABI PASHA, AN EXILE IN CEYLON.

Granville, vigorous steps were taken to restore the Turksh Khedive's despotic
rule. As it will be remembered, English ships were sent to Alexandria to
intimidate the new ministers and Parliament, but Arabi and certain trusted
associates refused to betray the heroically won liberties and declined to yield to the
English admiral's threats.

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All attempt was now made to get rid of Arabi in a more indirect way A
commissioner was secured b\- Lord Granville from the Sultan to entrap the
minister of war in a conference and there shoot or arrest hin:, but through timely
warning from" certain foreign friends Arabi escaped the trap set for him, and all
-seemed smooth sailing for a short time.

But the end was not yet. After the fashion of the fable of the wolf and the
lamb, a quarrel was picked with these patriotic Egyptians and the city of

Alexandria was bombarded on the
plea that the feeble fleet of England
was in danger!

As a last step in this unworthy
performance Lord \V0lsele3' was sent
to Egypt with .sixty thousand Engli.sh
troops. Arabi and ]\Iahmud Sami,
with thousands of others, were made
prisoners of war at Cairo. A mock
trial was instituted against the lead-
ers of the national movement. Arabi
Pasha ( ' ' Pasha ' ' corresponds to our
general), the minister of war, Mah-
niud Sami, the prime minister, Yakub
Sami, the governor of Cairo, and four
military officers were condemned to
death, and only through the pressure
of an outraged public opinion in Eu-
rope did Lord Granville at la.st ini-
w^llingly consent to a commutation of
their death penalty to one of exile to a
British colony.

The Eg}'ptian liberal party and
Parliament were disbanded, the pa-
triotic ministers and five pashas were
*' deported " to Ceylon and an Englishman, Sir Evelyn Baring, was installed
in Egypt, with the cowardly, cringing Turkish Khedive to do his bidding, or
rather the bidding of the British government.

SINGHALESE GIRL.

British Rule and Reforms.

After eight or ten j-ears' rule in Egypt under English influence Sir Evelyn
Baring published a report in which he claims for the British government the
success of certain internal reforms by which the finances have been set in order

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and check has been put on the abuses of power by the Turkish privileged class
and certain European colonists. But Arabi Pasha, in his earnest declaration to
me, insisted that these very reforms owe their initiative and vitality to the
national movement that he headed, and to prove this he produces the program
published by him in December, 18S1.

An intelhgent Englishman makes this public statement: " Although we have
been for years in Egypt, we have introduced no reform there upon any permanent
basis. The popular institutions won by Arabi, and which gave so much promise
of a new life to Egypt, and through Egypt to other Mohammedan countries, have
been ruthlessly uprooted. No vestige of political liberty has been left, and in
spite of every effort the English representative in Egypt has nothing better to
recommend than an indefinite prolongation of our military occupation and our
English tutelage. What England has accomplished in Egypt has been along the
lines of Arabi's program, and to allow the originator of these reforms to die in
exile, an English prisoner of war, would be a monstrous shame. ' '

I am aware that the question whether Arabi Pasha is a patriot or a criminal
is an unsettled one in the minds of man}-, but the trend of events in Eg>^pt since
he was banished, the intelligent discussion of the rise and fall of the national
movement and the conduct of Arabi during his long exile have elicited for him
and his cause much sj^mpathy in Europe and America.

Of course, Eord Salisbury's administration is inflexibly against the return of
the old man to his loved land, and I suppose that there is not a Tor}- in her
Majesty's service who w^ould dare to differ, publicly, with the premier on this or
on any other question of state; but if many others are not greatly mistaken, the
verdict of history will be given in favor of this man, who thought and fought for
the independence of his country, and who tried to rid his land of rulers who had
proved themselves utterly incapable to govern; who had pawned the produce of
their country twice over to the money-grabbers of Paris, Amsterdam and L,ondon;
who had taxed every acre of Egypt far beyond its value, and who had ground down
to desperation the historic docility of that laborious and loyal people, in order
that a small class and caste might revel in luxur5%

Letter to Lady Blunt.

Arabi Pasha handed me a copy of a letter that he addressed to Lady Anne
Blunt, of England, wdio had shown sympathy for the Egyptian patriot and his
fellow-exiles. This pathetic appeal was written some years since:

" To the Lady Blunt : May God preserve you. Amen. AVe have forwarded to the
Marquess of Salisbury the petition signed by nie and by the rest of the exiles here with me. I
sent it, with medical certificates, on the thirtieth of last month, by the same steamer which
conveyed the late governor. Sir Arthur Gordon. Sir William Gregory, who is a friend of both

WITH KYES WIDE OPKN.

177

parties, knows the substance of the petition, and will inform you of it when you see him. We
have been now seven years and a half in Ceylon, while those very reforms which we wanted to
make in Egypt are being carried out by the British government, and we confidently trust in the
humanity of the English nation for our return to our country for the days that are left us of life,
and to enjoy the benefits of such reforms as it has obtained. Surely now the people in England
must understand that to seek such reforms was our duty — one both of patriotism and humanity.
Peace be with you and with all who are your friends.

"[Signed] Ahmed Arabi, the Egyptian.^''

" Colombo, June 15, 1S90."

Although five 3'ears and a half have been added to this man's banishment
since this letter was penned by him, and although earnest speeches have been
made by the Earl De I^a Warr, Mr. Wilfrid Blunt and others, in and out of
Parliament, in behalf of his release, he is still an English prisoner of war,
thousands of miles from his home, and his patriotic heart will doubtless beat its
last pulsation in his bungalow, near the jungles of Ceylon.

12

CHAPTER IX.

FIRST inPRESSIONS OF INDIA.

URING the latter part of my stay in Ceylon I enjoyed the
privilege of visiting several of the educational institutions of
Colombo, and through the kindness of Professor S. G. Lee,
the principal of the City College, I addressed the faculty and
students of this excellent foundation. Before meeting them
in the large hall of the college the boys and young men
were seen in the separate classes, and in some of these class-
rooms there were as manj^ as eight nationalities represented.

The curriculum corresponds somewhat to that found in our higher academies,
and a certificate from this school enables the graduate without difficulty to enter
Jaffna College, in Northern Ceylon, or one of the higher institutions of India.
Several hundred pupils, from the palest to the darkest complexion, gathered in
the hall, and m}' talk on " Self- Heroism " was punctuated bj- j'outhful exclama-
tions and hurrahs that did not add to the fluency of the speaker.

Elephants on His Hands.

As a result of the visit he found next day that he had several elephants on
his hands. Six packages of Ceylon curios were sent, including two heavy ebony
elephants, ' ' with the compliments of the City College of Colombo. ' ' As the
steamer trunk had been shipped on to Bomba}'-, with the expectation that a valise
was to be his sole companion through the cities, jungles and mountains of India,
what was the grateful recipient to do ? His embarrassment was not lessened by
the message that some of the faculty and students would be at the Nubia when
she sailed to wish the American bon voyage^ which information seemed to forbid
the propriety of leaving behind some of his burdensome wealth.

Necessity is often the mother of invention, and a pleasant farewell has been
waved to the kind-hearted friends, who were only guilty of being too kind.

The City of Madras.

On approaching India you are first greeted by the noble lighthouse at Madras,
over a hundred feet in height, which can be seen for twenty miles over the restless
waters of the Bay of Bengal. Situated on the open bay and exposed to the fury
of the northeast monsoons, Madras was one of the most unprotected spots on the
Coromandel coast until the stone breakwater was built, which is composed of a

(17S)

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conglomerate of small stones and cement in the form of large cubes, after the plan
adopted by De Lesseps in the construction at Port Said, which forms the Mediter-
ranean entrance of the Suez Canal.

It is interesting to notice the peculiar structure of the shore boats that are
used by the natives of different lands. For miles from the coast of India, in the
Bay of Bengal, the waters are alive with fishermen's boats that are different from
any I have seen. They are built of three pieces of timber, ten or twelve feet
long, tied securely together with cocoanut fibre, the centre one being longer than
the others and curved upward at each end.

CATAMARAN FISHING BOATS, MADRAS.

As our steamer was obliged to anchor some distance off shore, a boat was used
to take the passengers to the wharf, which is peculiar in construction. It is made
of teak, a wood peculiar to India and excellent for ship-building ; the thin planks
are sewed together with hide thongs, caulked wdtli cocoanut fibre ; no nails are
used, which could not take the place of the yielding thongs, and eight to ten
rowers propel the boat with oars shaped like spoons, being strong elastic poles with
flat rounded ends securely lashed to them by hide thongs.

You soon find yourself facing an esplanade, located between the two roots of
the breakwaters and facing the harbor, which is an irregular terrace of large

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

i8i

business premises, behind which is Blacktown, the native city, which is distin-
guished from Whitetown, the European quarter, surrounding the fort near the
suburbs. Great shade trees add beauty to most of the streets where the foreign
residences and shops are located, and the marine promenade, about two miles long,
is crowded toward sunset with handsome equipages and well-dressed pedestrians.

In and around Madras there are many extensive lakes and tanks, some of
which are very noted. At one of the suburbs called Triplicane there is an ancient

native; passenger cart, madras.

and sacred tank, said by its Brahmans to be more hoh- than the Ganges, and one
bath in its waters is equal to ten thousand dips in that river.

The cit}-, with its half million of people, and covering an area of about thirty
miles, is full of interest to the sight-seer.

Sight=Seeing.

The People's Park, wnthits eleven pretty lakes, its well-maintained menagerie
and aviaries, and its miles of shady walks; the Robinson Park, where a large
fernery is placed on an island reached by a graceful iron bridge of fifty feet span;
the St. Thomas Mount, sacred to many as the spot where St. Thomas the Apostle

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is said to have been martyred in 68 A. D. by Brahmans, who stirred np the people
against him; the old palace of the Nawabsof the Karnatic, now used as a govern-
ment building, and the museum, containing a collection of natural history-, among
which is the great skeleton of a whale fift}' feet long, found dead on the Mangalore
shore, said to be the most perfect specimen in existence, and departments of
botany'', economics, mineralogy, geology and industrial arts that are well chosen
and excellently kept up. All of these places can be visited in a single day, and with

C.ROLP OF TODDYMEN, MADRAS.

an intelligent guide 3-ou may be sure that 3"our note-book will be crowded by
night.

The proportion of Christians is higher in Madras than anywhere else in
British India, and I learned that the Church of Scotland, the Wesleyans, the
lyondon Missionary Society, the Free Church of England, the Society for the
Propagation of the Gospel, the German Lutherans, the Roman Catholics, the
American Baptists and others are hard at work, and I can easily imagine how
the poor native who w^anted to become a Christian would be iitterly at a loss to
know which way to turn and through what door to pass.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

183

There is in the city a large number of schools, among which the most
important are the Madras Christian College of the Free Church of Scotland, with
nearly two thousand pupils, one of the most famous educational institutions in
India; the City Medical College, and the Presidenc}' Government College, all of
which prepare students for the Madras University.

As in every other place in this part of the world, the shops and bazaars of
Madras form a prominent and important feature of the city life. The pierced and
hammered silver work is exquisite in design and workmanship, and the work
known as swarai, decorated with figures of the Puranic gods in high relief —
sometimes repousse, sometimes soldered on the surface — was strikingly unique.

The blackwood furniture, the
carvings in sandal-wood and ivory,
the models of Dravidian temples made
of the pith of the sola, and the artistic
coconada rugs, woven in oiit-of-the-
way villages on the Coromandel coast
by the Mussulman descendants of
Persian settlers, tempt 3-ou to linger
in the native shops, and 3'ou are apt
to come forth from them with fewer
rupees than when you entered.

In the native settlement, groups
of dancing girls are frequently met.
These are nearly alwaj'S connected
with the temple services, and, for a
consideration, which is supposed to
be appropriated by the priests, these
young women give performances of
their art. Their dances are supposed
to represent stories of different char-
acter, and love, hatred, jealousy and
passions of different kinds are set forth by the postures, contortions and facial
expressions of these dancers, whose ankles are encircled by little silver bells, the
music from which is supposed to be in harmony with the instrument that is fur-
nishing the dance music.

When these girls are unengaged by the temples, they are frequentlj^ engaged
by private citizens, and, as in the East, people seldom do their own dancing,
these professional toe-tippers are brought in, and afford amusement during the
evening for a few rupees. It may be according to the fitness of things that these
people hire both their mourners and their dancers.

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The Seven Pagodas.

Thirty miles south of Madras is located Mahabalipur (or the Seven Pagodas),
which is one of the most interesting places in India to the archaeologist, presenting
a series of architectural wonders from the early Christian centuries down to recent
times, their remoteness on a sea-washed island having contributed to their
remarkable preservation. The cave temples, monolithic figures, carvings and
sculpture, probably of the sixth century-, and the more modern temples of
Vishnu and Siva are of thrilling historic interest. The whole of one ridge is

DOUBI,:^ BUI.I.OCK: RAIKI,A, MADRAS.

pitted with caves and temples, and there is seen the recumbent figure of a man,
which measures 1500 feet, with its hands in the attitude of prayer. Here we
find, in architecture, sculptures, and in inscriptions a religious histor>^ of Southern
India carved in the imperishable rock.

The Bay of Bengal.

From Madras to Calcutta, during the month of February, the Bay of Bengal
is as placid as a sleeping lake. The cyclones, which seem most at home in these
waters during the rest of the year, are unknown in this month, and from the

A THOROUGHFARE IN CALCUTTA.

(185.)

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moment that our steamer lifted anchor within the breakwater at Madras until we
passed through the mouth of the Hooghly River for Calcutta our voyage was the
perfection of tranquillit\', the unbroken sapphire of the bay being disturbed for

days only by the little
flying fish making a
chain of ripples on
the sparkling mirror
of the deep, or by a
lazy, rolling whale,
bent on proving that
there was something
alive in the sea, spout-
ing his fountain into
the serene air.

Evening after
evening as we watch
the sun sinking over
the Coromandel coast,
turning the smooth
face of the waters into
a floor of ruby and
purple, we can under-
stand why Homer
speaks of it as " wine-
colored," and when
the queen of night
takes the place of the
king of da}' the pic-
ture in water colors
changes, and, assisted
b}" the lesser lights,
this generous empress of the evening scatters her jewels broadcast over the
laughing waters.

The author of ' ' The Eight of Asia ' ' grows poetically eloquent in his ecstasy
over this beautiful bay:

" For, even these days of subtler air and finer delight,
When lovelier looks the darkness and diviner the lisrht,
The gift they give of all these golden hours whose urn
Pours forth reverberate ra3's or shadowing showers in turn —
Clouds, beams and winds that make the fair day's track seem living —
What were they did no spirit give them back thanksgiving?"

A MADRAS BELLE.

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Calcutta.

Calcutta (taking its name from the ancient shrine of the goddess Kali) is
located about ninety miles from the mouth of the Hooghly River, and as the
navigation of this stream is attended with many dangers, expert pilots, who are
at the head of their profession and who draw large stipends, are employed to guide
all steamers up and down the river.

The chief peril is known as "James and Mary" (from the name of a ship
that was wrecked at this point some years ago), and the shoal thrown up by two
tidal currents meeting the broad stream of the Ganges causes, at low water, a
frightful "rip," which has often torn the steering-gear of a ship to pieces and

flung her broadside on the sand.
Even the best pilots do not dare to
pass this place at night time, and
must seek to cross it as nearly as pos-
sible at high water.

Nearer the mouth of the river is
Saugor Island, where the Ganges
runs to sea out of the great delta
formed by her own flood and that of
the Brahmapootra, and I am told that
the forests of this lonely place
abound with tigers of a large and
ferocious kind. But, unhurt b}' tide
or tiger, in due time we reach the
political capital of India.

It has been a little over two

hundred years since the East India

Company first established its factory

at Calcutta, and on the twenty-fourth

of August, 1690, the English flag was hoisted by the noted Job Charnock.

Twenty years afterward its population was only twelve thousand and now it is

not very far from a million.

The Calcutta of our day is modern in all of its improvements, and the famous
Black Hole, the Maratha Ditch and other historic spots that we associate with the
names of Charnock, Hamilton, Clive and Warren Hastings have lost their identity
and the ground that witnessed scenes that thrilled the world is covered by magnifi-
cent public buildings.

The Government House, a noble palace, situated in a park of six or seven,
acres, with a central building, contains handsome suites of reception and enter-

MADRAS COOWE;.

(i89)

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taining rooms, connected by galleries with four outlying blocks, in which are the
private apartments of the viceroy and his household; the town hall, the legislative
council chamber, the high court, the treasury and the currency office, located near
together; the imperial museum, the zoological gardens, the horticultural gardens.

HINDU SACRIFICE, KAI.I GHAT, CAI,CUTTA.

and the Fort William are all evidences of British influence, which has shaped the

appearance as well as the government of Calcutta according to the notion of John

Bull.

A Noted Antiquity.

The most noted antiquity in the city, perhaps, is the Kali Ghat, where Kali,
or ' ' The Black One, ' ' who is supposed to be a furious goddess, hideous in features,

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dripping with blood, with a necklace of human skulls, has held her shrine and
greeted her worshipers for ages past. She is thought to send pestilence and
famine, and, as she is only appeased by blood, during the fearful famine in 1866
liuman heads decked with flowers were found before her altar.

This is the only place of public worship for Hindus in Calcutta, and on
religious festivals thousands of natives repair to the shrine of Kali, sacrifice goes
on continually and ghats and tanks are crowded with bathers.

RIVER FRONT, CALCUTTA.

In this connection allow me to speak of the burning ghat on the banks of the
Hooghly, wdiere the Hindus cremate their dead.

Cremation of the Dead.

The pyre is laid in dry wood, mingled sometimes with sandal-wood for the
sake of its fragrance. The corpse is placed at full length on the pile and covered
over with more wood, the head and feet only being visible. Passages from the
sacred books are read by the ofl&ciating priest. The eldest son or nearest relative,

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(193)

194 AROUND THE WORI.D

having walked three times round the pyre, kindles it, and in two or three hours

the body is reduced to ashes, which are cast into the river.

As we watched the smoke noiselessly ascending from several pyres, while the

relatives of the dead solemnly and quietly, with bowed heads, stood near b}', the

thought occurred to us that this was a far more impressive funeral than many we

had seen in a more civilized land, where false notions, based upon unacknowledged

superstition, made such services most repulsive. But I turn to pleasanter

scenes.

The Banyan Tree.

In my walks I visited a noble specimen of the banyan tree. It sends down
aerial roots, striking into the ground and forming new trunks, and these again
make fresh branches and rootlets until a colonnade of living pillars is formed,
canopied with a roof of green.

The name of this tree is aszvaitha, and an old writing says that he who knows
the aswattha knows human life, for the tree is an emblem of the life of man, who,
growing to maturity in the air and sunlight of the sense-world, throws forth ever
and ever new roots to bind himself more and more to the earth and its allurements.

These wonderful, outspreading banyan trees adorn many of the private
grounds in and around Calcutta, and in its refreshing shade the family can be seen
during the pleasant days gathered about the lunch table.

The botanical gardens, which are situated beyond the village of Seebpur, on
the bank of the Ganges, contain, perhaps, the finest banyan tree in the world.

Nearly every American and English school child is familiar with the picture

of this superb tree, and it is regarded the greatest glory of these famous gardens.

Although it is only one hundred years old, its trunk is more than fifty feet in

circumference, and over two hundred air roots have descended to the earth from

its mighty limbs. Its outside measurement is more than eight hundred feet in

circumference.

The Indian fluseum.

Those who are interested in archaeology will visit, with interest, the valuable
contents of the Indian Imperial Museum, which was founded by the Asiatic
Society, whose journals are the source from which almost every authority on
Indian antiquities, philology, literature and natural history has come.

The archaeological galleries contain a gateway and railing of the great Budd-
hist Stupa of Bharhut, which is nearly two thousand years old, and which is richly
sculptured with representations of the various births of Buddha, giving pictures
of the dress, tools, weapons, furniture, buildings and domestic life of the people
who lived one and two hundred years before the Christian era.

On the opposite side of the river an imposing building is pointed out, which
reminds the student of history of an act of injustice on the part of England, the

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like of which has not been infrequent in her foreign polic}-. This structure was
the palace of King Oude, who was dethroned while he was the ruler of one of the
richest provinces of India, and under some specious pretence his private property
was seized, including his valuable jewels, and sold to enrich the treasure of the
Queen of England. Even the British press acknowledged at the time that
the English had no more right to that private property and to those precious
stones than they had to the crown diamonds of Russia.

If might makes right then our Anglo-Saxon cousins have had a supremelj^
righteous career. It was with peculiar interest that I visited Serampur, a few
miles from Calcutta, and looked upon the places made immortal by the heroic
efforts of Carey. Marshman and Ward, those pioneers of missionary enterprise in
India.

^':;#^^

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CHAPTER X.

IN THE HIMALAYAS.

FTER spending some clays sight-seeing abont Calcutta, and after
witnessing a fine display of the Indian tactics at a bril-
liant military tournament, it was with pleasure that we
boarded a coach on the East Bengal Railway, and, crossing
the Ganges at Damookdea, resumed our journey by the
North Bengal State Railwa}- mitil we reached Siliguri, where
the Himalayan Railway was taken, which has a gauge of only
two feet, and which is the most wonderful piece of engineering
in the world, not excepting the railway up the Pilatus, near Luzerne, Switzerland,
or the one running up Mount Washington, in Xew Hampshire. The locomotives
are sturdy little engines weighing ten tons. Each open carriage holds six in
comfortable arm chairs, and the railwa}' is a light tram, the rail weighing about
forty pounds a yard. The four-wheeled bogies wind in and out along the hill-
sides, running at times excitingly near the edge of tremendous gorges and
precipices, assuming the shape of the letter S for two-thirds of the journey. At
one place the train crosses a bridge, which a moment afterward it runs under,
and rising again the line makes a complete figure eight.

Scenery and Vegetation.

On this toy railwa}' you are now passing through dense primeval forests, now
you look out upon dark green tea gardens, that spread for miles along the slopes
of the mountains. A moment afterward you are looking thousands of feet below
you upon the vast fertile plain of Bengal, the meandering rivers rolling through
it, flashing like molten silver in the sunlight, and further on, as the train commences
to make the steeper ascent, you are carried through jungles of cane fifty or sixty
feet high, grasses that shoot their blades fifteen feet and seed-stalks twenty-five feet
from the ground, with great feathery tops.

As the ascent is made it is interesting to notice how the vegetation changes.
For the first three thousand feet oaks, banyans, mimosas, acacias, fig, india-rubber
and the giant bamboo, .sixty feet high, w^th .stalks as thick as a man's thigh, are
seen in every bend of the serpentine road. About four thousand feet above the
plain the spreading chestnut and the blooming almond and mango trees come in
sight, and now you come into a wilderness of graceful Himalayan tree ferns from
fifteen to twenty-five feet high.

(197)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

199

The riountaineers.

The attention is now divided between the natural scenery, which is becoming
transcendently grand, and the new tj-pes of people that gaze from the doors of
their dirt shanties or lie about smoking iron pots hanging over the fire on tripods,
quite in gipsy style, partaking of their midday meal. By the dress, physiognomy
and figure three nationalities could be easily distinguished — the people from Thibet,
Nepal and Cashmere — which countries are separated from this part of Northern
India by the Himalayan mountains.

The men were all armed with long sword-like knives, carried in their
belts which support their single garments. The women, with their brilliant

costume and more brilliant ear, nose
and toe rings, are more attractive-
looking than their southern sisters,
and the children wear no artificial
adornment except rings about their
ears, noses and ankles.

The wild country through which
we passed abounds in ferocious animals,
and our talkative conductor has just
given us a description of a great
Bengal tiger that was .seen lying near
the railroad track, and as the train
approached him he leisurely arose,
quietly gave a parting glance at the
nois}' engine and disappeared in the
thick jungles.

Approaching Darjeeling.

When the ascension is very steep

and the curves are sharp we can see

from our coach, near the rear, two

natives sitting on the cow-catcher

sprinkling sand on the rails to prevent

the busy little wheels from slipping, and while passing over the many horseshoe

turns about the cliffs we frequently find ourselves exactly opposite the scarlet-

turbaned man at the throttle of the engine.

We wind in and out, around and about, up and down, and as our snake-
twisting train passes the white board that marks seven thousand feet above the
sea level, the puffing little m.achine at the front, which has fought bravely andean
claim a noble victory, sends forth a shout of triumph. Sweeping around a sudden

A I,EPCHA MAN.

(,200)

DAKJKELING RAILWAY.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

20 1

turn, we see the hundreds of white houses of Darjeeling perched upon the sides
of the Himalayas as if they had been dumped from the floating sheets of clouds
abo.e, and, lifted far over tier after tier of moving sky vapors, which hide from
view over twenty thousand feet of the range, the sunlit, snow-crowned Kinchin-
junga stands forth like the pearl-white palace of the king of kings in the heaven
of heavens. Words seem quite inadequate to describe the stupendous magnifi-
cence of the view as we entered Darjeeling, which signifies "up in the clouds."

The " Halls of Snow."

It is located at the end of a long wooded spur of Sinchul, a mountain about
nine thousand feet high, and from the peak near my hotel the eye sweeps over a
perfect amphitheatre, resting in turn
upon the snow summits of Janu,
twent3'-five thousand and three hun-
dred feet above Calcutta; Kabur,
twentj'-four thousand ; Pandim , twenty-
two thousand; Chomiamo, twentj^-four
thousand and six hundred, and then
a succession of unnamed mountains,
which lead on to Donkhia, twenty-six
thousand, and towering above all of
them, whose irregular snow roofs can
alone be seen, is the Kinchinjunga,
which is more than twenty -eight thou-
sand feet in height.

In the valleys of these mount-
ains, which stretch in a chain of
over two hundred miles in extent,
are unbroken successions of snow
fields and glaciers, and in the centre
of the whole range rises the hoary monarch just spoken of, whose dazzling
crown is lifted more than five miles over the plain of Bengal.

In the early morning I was disappointed to find Kinchinjunga buried under
a thick mass of cloud, but my disappointment lasted only for a short time. As
the rising sun gathered strength, arrows of light pierced the vapory nightrobe of
the sleeping giant; a glow of glory rested upon the snows, changing into mingled
gold, ruby and purple, and as the king of day kissed the white-turbaned peaks
good morning a bright smile spread from summit to sunnuit, and, leaping down
the stairway of snow, the early morning light spread a veil of gold upon the dewy
lap of the valle}' s.

A I.l-.i'i^HA W'O.MAX.

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nount Everest.

To see Mount Everest, tli2 highest mountain in the world, is the supreme
desire of every one who visits Darjeeling, and in order to have this pleasure one
must take an early morning ride to Tiger Hill, a distance of eight miles, and
frequently after taking the ride the desired object is not attained.

Accompanied by two gentlemen and one lady I took the trip about daybreak,
and we all agreed that this delightful ride up the Himalayas (which means, in
Sanskrit, " Halls of Snow " ) amply repaid us for the inconvenience of rising so
early on a cold morning, although we might not see the king of mountains.

A RCSTIC SCENE IN IXDIA— BUFFALO PI^OWING

Our path, at times, led about the mountain ranges, with only a few feet
between the perpendicular granite walls and the gorges of thousands of feet in
depth; but our sure-footed little ponies, with the exception of one slight accident
did their work well, and in due time we were standing on Tiger Hill, two thou-
sand feet above Darjeeling. A deep mist enveloped us, and after straining our
eyes in vain to get a glimpse of the part of our globe that reaches nearest to the
skies we were about to descend, when our lad}- companion, whose intuitions are

20X

AROmW THE WORLD

worthy of her superior sex, insisted upon a dela}^ declaring that there would be a
break in the mist}' clouds, and we would be rewarded shortly. Of course she was
right, and of course we were wise in following the lady's advice.

Far out and up in the direction where our guide said Mount Everest was
located a brightness appeared, then a patch of blue, and as speechlessly we watched

DARJEEI.ING BAZAAR TYPES.

for the appearance the pure dome of Mount Everest, 29,000 feet above the sea,
stood against the deep blue sky, unsupported, apparently, by any base; and a
moment afterward it was wrapped again in the clouds. The picture is as
impossible to forget as it is impossible to paint.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 205

Himalayan Tea.

Accepting the invitation of an English gentleman, I visited his tea plantation
and factory, and from his gardens, covering about two hundred acres, I was
informed he ships over fifty thousand pounds of tea leaves every year. This tea,
in the Himalayas, has a distinct flavor of its own, and with the exception of that
tasted in Ceylon, I have found none so delicious as this.

The peoples that are found in these mountains are of peculiar interest. The
L/epchas, of the Sikkini race, who have no religious rites; the Limboos, whose
out-door temples are seen on the hill-tops; the Moormis, of large stature and
originally from Thibet; the Nepaulese and Cashmere people, with short, stout
frames, and the long-haired, unnamed men of the hills, present types and habits
of mankind that cannot but elicit attention and interest.

A Native Bazaar.

The native bazaar here in Darjeeling is one of the sights of the place, and at
noon the noise of the peddlers and more important tradesmen can be heard for
squares away.

The old saying that " it takes two to make a bargain " does not apply here,,
for before a trade is closed scores of merry women and children gather about 3'ou,
shouting, pushing and gesticulating like so many lunatics.

The open market-place is crowded with traders, many of whom have come
from Thibet, Cashmere and further distances, and heterogeneous assortments of
goods, consisting of brass Buddhas, ironmongery, pottery, skins, flashing jewelrj^
coins, curios of everj^ description, besides tamed snakes, birds and monkeys, are
offered for remarkably low prices. To stand on an eminence overlooking this
bazaar, and watch the brilliantly colored costumes and excited manners of the
people as they mingle in a great labyrinth of noisy confusion, is a wonderfully
interesting study.

The most attractive person in all the throng is the Bhutia woman, with a
great circlet round her head formed of large beads of coral and turquoise, four
necklaces of amber, agate, coral and moonstones; enormous ear-rings, pulling
down the lobes of the ears, and a massive silver girdle about her loosely worn
garment, with hanging ornaments like a chatelaine. After all, is not the most
charming creature in every land a — woman ?

On an Indian Railway.

A sleeping-car on an oriental railway is death to aristocratic airs. The early
morning (the tourist jo3'fully rises with the sun) finds his meekness only exceeded
by his shabbiness, and during the long, long night how often does he wish that he

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WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 207

was sleeping amidst the jungles through which he is passing, instead of tossing
up and down, round and round, over and over, in this wabbling, rattling, snorting,
creaking thing that is carrying him ten or fifteen miles an hour.

I am sure that the Indian sleeping-car possesses a patent of its own, and that
it has never been duplicated is a blessing to that part of humanity that does
not enjoy the nightmare while taking nocturnal trips through this country.

The car itself is a wonder in inconvenient workmanship. When it remains
still long enough to be measured, you find that it measures about ten by six feet,
contains four indescribable affairs called beds — two stationary and two hanging in
a threatening manner from above by leather-covered ropes; is lit by a single
flickering light that is too dim to read by and too bright to sleep by, and is entered
bj' the tourist through a side door, which is often too narrow for the bundle of
Ijedclothes that the railroad kindly allows him to furnish.

In an Indian 5leeping Car,

Having as my companion during the first night out on my way to the
mountains of India a bright, congenial fellow from the ' ' City of Brotherly Eove, ' '
the trip was crowded with incidents, some of which were very laughable several
days after they happened.

Far in the dark night it turned suddenly very chilly, and we were aroused to
£nd everything in a stiff gale, and fearing that the monkeys in the jungles would
have the joy of appearing next day in some of our garments, we arose to seize
them in the midst of their wild career as they danced in the whirlwind, and to our
surprise we found that our door was swinging wide open, and from the mountains
the cold air was sweeping through the car from door to window and window to
door.

These sleeping-cars encourage domestic economj^ in that they require j'ou to
■carry about with you all the bedclothing that 3'ou use, and make up your own bed
when you desire to use it! As my good-natured friend possessed a passion for
:such art, and as it is my creed that every one should be encouraged in developing
liis talent in any given direction, I allowed him to practice on my bed; but when
the time came to blow up my newly patented air-pillow, then came the tug-of-war!
We blew into that perversely empty pillow by turns until our heads grew dizzy
and we seemed to be blowing our brains out; but as we held it up after every
windstorm, it resembled in diameter a pancake rather than a pillow.

At last, my companion, thinking, perhaps, that it was not worth while to put
on airs while trying to put in air, assumed an attitude of strength rather than of
grace, and turning himself into a veritable bellows, inflated the pillow to an
enormous size and uncomfortable tightness, which he now handed to me with an
air of triumph.

2o8 AROUND THE WORLD

Crossing the riountains.

In the morning we expected a scene of desolation to greet us, as we would
be in the mountains, but, as we looked through the windows, everything was
green. Not only the trees and grass, but our eyes could not rest upon anything
that was not green — green birds, green cows, green pigs, green goats, green ducks,
green skies, and, stranger still (a sight w^hich we look for in vain in our countr}-),
green men and women!

What kind of country is this, anyhow ? In mute wonder we gazed upon the
green panorama, fearing to speak lest we exposed our greenness.

In a few moments the window pane was dropped, and the verdant delusion
came to an end. The windows were of green-colored glass, and the greenness,
alas, was not outside, but inside of the car!

Deliberateness to a painful degree is the dominant characteristic of these
trains, especially in Northern India.

While riding horseback with a party near Darjeeling, the cars were seen
approaching us, and the steed of one of the young men became unmanageable,
and succeeded in getting away from the rider, who had dismounted. The engineer
stopped his train and the brakeman caught the horse, which had run some distance
away 1

Slow Progress.

While on a railroad near the boundary line of India and Assam, the conductor
was asked why there were not more collisions, as there was only a single track.
" The reason is very simple," he replied; " we have only one engine."

To pass away the time during a tedious delay of the train in the walds of
Assam, my friend from Philadelphia and I tossed small coins in the grass, and the
violent scramble that followed on the part of the natives w^as a remarkable sight.
I counted sixty-seven grown men struggling in a heap over a coin valued at about
one-half of our cent.

When the amusement became a little monotonous, I exclaimed, " Is it not
time for us to be going, or what causes the long delaj^ ?' ' A gentleman near me
said, " Yonder is the engineer scrambling with those other men for the coin just
thrown out," and sure enough, there he was, with his firemen, in the midst of the
melee.

In order to test the speed of these fast-running Assamese, I placed a man
with a few coins in his hand about two hundred yards from a group of fift}- or
sixty men, and told them that the first who reached the holder of the money
could have it. At the drop of the handkerchief they all started, but what was my
surprise when I saw the man to whom had been given the coins to hold, just
before the swiftest runner reached him, turn about and run off" with the bag.

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On a Sacred River,

Our trip up the sacred Brahmapootra (" Sou of Brahma ") River on our way
into Assam was most dehghtful in every respect. It is impossible to bridge this
river, as it changes its course so often, and the most expert native pilots are
employed to guide the steamers through the treacherous channels.

Wild animals of nearly everj^ description abound in the thick jungles on
either side of the stream, and alligators, storks, cranes and quantities of many-
colored birds are seen as we near Dhubri.

One of the most noted rajahs in the country' has his magnificent palace in
this neighborhood, and as he keeps 150 elephants solely for hunting purposes, he
is very popular with English huntsmen. A hunting party is being formed this
week, and one of the sportsmen told me that if they were as successful as when
they last went out, a number of tiger skins would be carried home by the party.

In a Dak Bungalow.

My nights in
Assam are spent in
what is known as a
dak bungalow, which
is built and owned
by the government,
and as these bunga-
lows are located in
places out of the
usual route of travel,
they are great conve-
niences to government
officials who must
traverse the land from
one end to the other,
and to tourists w^ho
desire to get a glimpse of the places and peoples untouched by civilization.

These one-floor buildings are in charge of natives, who present to each guest
a book, in which he enters the time of arrival and departure, and on the opposite
place is a blank space for ' ' remarks. ' '

The column of ' ' remarks ' ' shows the varied characters of the persons who have
rested under the low roof of this forest hotel. A certain Delia Sjanonds, shocked
at the frivolity of the dak bungalow library, which consisted of a few broken-
backed novels and a pile of dry magazines and weekly papers, delivered herself,

DANDY, DARJEELING, INDTA.

WITH WIDE OPEN EYES.

211

too many novels for the good morals of the public." This could not be left
unnoticed.

The next person who made his remarks was evidently of a different frame of
mind from Miss Delia, and his entry proves that he was much more of a wag than
a poet:

' ' If fair Delia here would stay
Our faulty morals to better,
I'm sure we all should say

That we'd gladlj' be her debtor.
Bad books no more we'd peruse,

Enchained by her charms so entrancing,
The bad boy, poor chap, he would lose,
While we to glory should be dancing.'

A new deputy commissioner writes under this: " Travelers are reminded that
the remark column is not designed with the view of affording them an opportunity
of firing off brilliant flashes of wit or recording mawkish expressions of cant."

Fearing that I might break one or the other of these governmental prohibi-
tions, I refrained from making a " remark."

In these parts it is impossible from the clocks in use to tell the time of day or
night unless you perform mental gymnastics equal to working a problem in
calculus. I was awakened last night by the unearthly sound of a clock striking
twenty-seven, and next morning when I asked for an explanation and expressed
a desire to know how I could tell the time by this erratic timepiece, the solution
given me called to mind a certain clock that served a purpose, if you remembered
that when the long hand was at quarter after twelve and the short hand half-past
eight it was going on to ten o'clock.

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CHAPTER XI.

BENARES ON THE GANGES.

HESE words are written in a city that is supposed by many histo-
rians to be the oldest known habitation of man on earth. Five
and twenty centuries ago, when Rome was not yet on the records
of the world, and when Athens was in its infant splendor, Benares,
on the noble Ganges, exerted a mighty power and her fame was
established among men. Here the great Buddha proclaimed his
doctrines first, sending forth missionaries from this centre to Ce3'lon, China, Japan,
Burmah and Thibet, bringing, in time, nearly half the race of man under the
influence of his teachings. But centuries afterward, during a powerful religious
and political upheaval. Buddhism succumbed to Brahmanism, leaving behind only
the ruins of its topes and temples. And to-day, what Mecca is to the Moham-
medan, Jerusalem to the Christian, Benares is to the Hindu.

The cit}' is located along the crest of a hill over one hundred feet above the
sacred Ganges. For three miles on the sloping west bank, palaces, temples and
mosques, surmounted by domes, pinnacles and minarets, rear their irregular tops.
Giant flights of stone stairs, interrupted b}^ wide platforms, on which are built
shrines of every description, reach to the water, and on the edges of the bank are
bathing ghats, which are crowded with pilgrims from every part of India and from
other countries, in every stage of dress and undress, whose supreme desire is tc
plunge into these holy waters before death overtakes them.

Hindu Pilgrims.

These pilgrims are not all from the lower or middle classes, but include every
rank of Indian society, from the elaborately dressed rajahs, followed by long
retinues of attendants, to the unsightly looking ashes-covered fakir and the
miserable deformed beggar, and from the little boys and girls to the aged grand-
fathers, lifted by bearers to the stream, all bent upon dipping in the mother
Ganges for the remission of their sins.

The private boat of a rich rajah was anchored at one of the ghats, and a
covered canopy, which extended to the bank, hid him and his wife from view as
they went through their religious ablutions.

I noticed that many of the women and girls carried wreaths of white and
yellow flowers into the river, and as they most devoutly turned their faces

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214 AROUND THE WORLD.

toward the rising sun and inaudiblj^ whispered their prayers, the garlands were
broken in pieces and scattered upon the river.

Hundreds of these devotees were seen with brass jars and other vessels, in
which they carry away to their distant homes some of the holy water, and
employes of the temples, from Central and Southern India, were there with their
leather water-bags, which were to be filled and borne on the backs of the
pedestrians for scores and scores of miles to their houses of worship.

The thoughtful man, it matters not what may be his religious predilections,
has no disposition to sneer at these worshipers, who freely and quietly give their
time and money to what they sincerely believe to be true; which fact presents a
striking contrast to the loud professions and selfish, covetous lives of not a few
church-goers in Christian lands.

Along the river bank there are not less than fifty of these ghats, which have
for their background magnificent flights of steps leading up to imposing castles
and palaces, great white mosques and soaring minarets.

The Pauchganga ghat, where five rivers are supposed to meet underground,
leads to the noble mosque which the iconoclast, Aurangzeb, built on the site of
the noted Krishna temple which he destroyed.

This is the finest mosque in Benares, the foundations of which rise from the
bed of the river in huge stone breastworks, which support the four walls and
domes of the mosque, and springing lightly in the air are two graceful minarets,
lifting the whole structure three hundred feet above the swarm of bathers at the
water's edge.

In sailing up the river I passed the ghat where Vishnu dug his famous well,
where Brahma made his celebrated sacrifice of ten horses, the Golden Temple, and
many other spots that have made the city known the world over.

The Burning Ghat.

In the midst of these places of worship is located the Burning Ghat, where
bodies are brought from all over India to be bathed in the Ganges, and then
cremated on its banks.

Smoke from four pyres was seen as we approached the ghat, and several
corpses, wrapped in white cloth, and lashed between two stout sticks, were being
washed in the sacred stream, while the relatives of the dead were preparing the
wood, near by, for the cremation.

Bedecked with flowers, and sometimes wearing jewelry, the bodies are lam
between layers of wood, the ashes are cast into the water, and we saw a number
of men at work who make a regular business of searching the shore and filtering
the water through baskets in search of jewels or money that perchance might
have dropped from the dead.

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What a comment on humanity — the religious devotee, the fakir, the beggar,
the mourner, the stiff corpse and the money-grabber (who is always and everj--
where on hand), mingled together in the holy city on the sacred river.

A rionkey Temple.

One of the most curious places visited was the Durga, or Monkey Temple.
Durga is thought to delight in all kinds of bloodshed and destruction, and while I
watched the worshipers, a man approached the blood-bedabbled altar in front of

the shrine, and, having placed a num-
ber of coins in the hands of the offi-
ciating priest, was given the privilege
of having a little kid that he held
under his arm beheaded, and after the
oharp blade had descended, he made
an offering of the head and carried the
body awa}- to his home.

In the yards and trees about the
lemple are hosts of monkeys, who
spring into 3'our pathway, peer round
the walls, snatch at your clothes and
.nake the most comical grimaces at
you on the least provocation, but it is
a crime to molest them, for they are
gods and goddesses, held in the high-
est veneration.

I could hardly suppress an irre-
ligious laugh as I watched one of
these goddesses, holding a baby god
under her left arm, while she held a
nut in her right hand, on which she
was nibbling in the most human
fashion, and during the performance she was making the most unholy faces at me
because of my inferiorit}'.

What the monkey is to Vishnu the cow and bull are to Siva. To slaughter
these animals is a horrible crime, and in everj^ part of India can be found temples
dedicated to their honor, where they are kept wath the greatest care.

The "Holy Man."

One of the curiosities of humanity is the " holy man of Benares," whom I
visited last evening. His long-continued acts of penance have worn his body to

A MOUNTAIN MUSICIAN, INDIA.

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skin and bones. He is thought b}^ many to be above all passion and sin; he
declines to receive anything from visitors, and his bright eyes, sweet expression

and soft voice seem
to indicate that he pos-
s esses a serenity in
life that is enjoyed by
few. On leaving him
he presented me with a
book containing his fa-
vorite studies. As I
have not 3^et finished
pronouncing the au-
thor's name on the first
page, I am not pre-
pared to pass an opinion
on the merits of the
work. It is written
by Matparamahausa-
parinrajakacharyaswa-
mibhaskaranandasaras-
wati! I am doubtful
whether penance or pro-
nunciation caused the
thinness of the ' ' hoh'
man of Benares," for
after my frantic efforts
to pronounce the name
of this distinguished
author I feel that I
weigh less! Perhaps
the celebrated anti-fat
preparation is an ex-
tract from this tire-
somename, whose
owner died of exhaustion, and whose owner's disciple is growing thinner and

thinner every day.

In the Bazaars.

To those who enjoy examining curios and artistic manufactures the bazaars of
Benares will prove to be especiall}^ attractive. The city is famous for its beauti-
fully engraved brasswork, and trays, water ves.sels, bowls, lotus dishes, candle-sticks,

HOI,Y MAN.

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220 AROUND THE WORLD

lamps, fancy boxes, bells, spoons and scores of other utensils, engraved most exqui-
sitely, can be purchased for remarkably cheap prices.

Rich brocades wrought with figures of animals in gold and variegated colors,
the oldest survival of ancient loomwork extant and the finest of its kind in the
world, are found in the tiny shops in the bazaars, and this beautiful work is done
by experts who receive about three or four dollars a week.

When a piece is finished it is "worth its weight in gold," but the poor
fellow whose genius created the masterpiece lives and dies in poverty, while some
merchant in Europe or America gets the " weight in gold."

Some of these brilliantly figured brocades bring to mind the description of
Ulysses' dress, as given in the nineteenth book of the Odyssey:

" In ample mode
A robe of militar}- purple flowed
O'er all his frame, illustrious on his breast
The double-clasping gold the king confest.
In the rich woof a hound, mosaic drawn,
Bore on full stretch and seized a dappled fawn;
Deep in his neck his fangs indent their hold;
They pant and struggle in the moving gold.
Fine as a filmy web beneath it shone
A vest that dazzled like a cloudless sun."

An Elegy in riarble.

In Hearing Agra and Delhi we were soon to look upon the most superb
monument ever reared to woman and the most magnificent palace in the world.
From every elevated point of view in and around Agra, this city of castles and
palaces, can be seen the shining domes and minarets of the Taj Mahal, the most
beautiful tomb and one of the most renowned buildings in the world. It was
erected during the first half of the seventeenth century by Shah Jehan for the
body of his wife, Arjamand Banu, and history tells us that it required twenty
thousand workmen to labor twenty-two 5'ears and necessitated an expenditure of
four million pounds sterling before it was completed. It was the ambition of the
great Mogul Emperor to erect the most superb monument ever reared to commem-
orate a woman's name, and the verdict of the ages is not only that his purpose
was fulfilled, but that in this eifort to translate his loyal and royal love into,
marble, Mohammedan architecture reached its climax and the world was enriched
by the most perfect poem in stone.

Passing over a road amidst the ruins of many ancient palaces, you stand
before a gateway of red sandstone, inlaid with floral designs and passages from the
Koran in white marble. Through this splendid entrance, which is 140 feet high
and no feet wide, you enter a garden filled with palms, peepuls, thuja and

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222 A.ROUND THE WORLD

pomegranate, in the centre of which is a long tank of pure marble, reaching away
for three or four hundred feet, containing a score of fountains, and the lovely vista
closes at the base of the snow-white platform on which the Taj rests.

Arjamand's riausoleum.

The building itself, i86 feet square and 220 feet high to the top of the dome,
is raised upon a plinth 313 feet square, 18 feet above the level of the garden. At
each corner of this platform stand four tapering minarets 137 feet high, and at
each side of the Taj, 400 feet back across a great court flagged with marble, are
imposing mosques of red stone, richly decorated with mosaics of marble, topped
with three white domes, which are among the finest in India.

The milk-whiteness of this great mass of marble is broken onh' bj- the car^dng
and inlaid flowers done in precious stones, combined in wreaths, scrolls and frets,
which greet the eye as you enter through the wonderful door.

The inner walls of this burial place of the loved Arjamand are found to be as
much a marvel of subtle shadow and chastened light, decked with exquisite
jewelry, as the exterior is noble and sublime, and, as you study panel by panel,
column by column, trellis- work after trellis- work, inlaid most gracefully and
elaborately in jasper, coral, bloodstone, nacre, onyx, turquoise, sardonyx and the
most precious gems, you are willing to agree that the Moguls designed like giants
and finished like jewelers.

Memory of Undying Love.

Beneath the glorious dome, in the centre of the edifice, are two sarcophagi
covering the spots in the vault below w'here the ashes of the one for whom the
tomb was built and the builder of the tomb rest. At the threshold are inscribed
the words: " To the memory of an undying love," and the Kmperor has immor-
talized, if he could not preserve alive for one brief da}-, the one whom he named
" Exalted one of the palace."

My first view of the Taj was w^heu its pure dome was dazzling under the
bright sunshine of midday, and I was sure that nothing could exceed its splendor
and brilliancy. My next view was more enchanting, and the impression made
upon my mind by this ghostly hall of death is fadeless.

The silver moon, set in a cloudless sky, cast a soft glow over the scene as I
passed into the garden scented by roses and jasmine; the quiet shrubs and trees
were reflected in lakes of clearest water, and as I quietly sat on the extreme end
of the snowy platform overlooking the sacred Jumna and studied this masterpiece
of love, my admiration and astonishment gave birth to the overpowering thought
that seldom, if ever, in human history has man's afiectipns struggled so ardently,

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224 AROUND THE WORI.D

passionately and triumpliantl}- against the oblivion of death as in this mass of
marble that is unmarked b}^ the relentless tooth of time.

The marble of the structure came from Rajpootana, the diamonds and jasper
from Punjab, the carnelians and agates from Thibet, the corals from Arabia, the
sapphires and other precious stones from Ceylon, and the genius that turned this
stone into " frozen music " was the gift of Heaven to Austin, of Bordeaux, who,
driven by a strange fate from Ms European home, was employed by Shah Jehan
in the erection of more than one architectural monument by which his name, as
the " greatest of builders," has passed down the ages.

Reign of the Moguls.

Here in Agra, as in many other places in India, have I tried to study the
stupendous ruins that mark the places where the great Mogul dynasty, under its
different famous rulers, held absolute swa}' over millions of souls, and by this
debris of the ages can you trace its history from its crowning period, in the time
of Babar the Eion, down to the siege of Delhi.

The Mogul Humayun, whose brilliant court was known the world over, v\^as
succeeded by his son Akbar the Great, who did more than any other to establish
the imperial system, during whose reign several magnificent palaces and strong
forts were built, and who caused the gates of Chittor to be set up at Agra.

His son, Jehangir, did not greatly distinguish himself, but his grandson.

Shah Jehan, who was proclaimed Emperor at Agra iu 1628, gave a new impetus

to architectural works, and during his reign the Pearl Mosque, the Great Mosque

and the famous Khas Mahal were built, and the erection of the Taj and other

tombs by him associate his name with some of the most remarkable and unique

structures in the land.

Palace at Delhi.

The imperial palace, erected by this prince of builders at Delhi, is regarded
by many as the most splendid palace in the world. The area within the massive
and lofty red sandstone walls is more than a thousand yards long by five hundred
yards wide, and is entered by a gate which is one hundred and forty feet high, its
interior being a vaulted hall three hundred and seventy -five feet long, resembling
very much a gigantic gothic cathredral.

Within the inclosure the first building you reach is the Diwan-i-am or public
hall or audience, a beautiful colonnaded structure of red sandstone and inlaid
marble. In the centre of the back wall is the royal throne and canopy of white
marble, decorated with bits of precious stones representing flowers, fruits and birds.

The Dewan-i-Khas, or private hall of audience, is a building of white marble,
ornamented without and within by inlaid work, and the ceiling is decorated richly
with gold. In the centre of this hall stands a pure marble dais, on which rested

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226 AROUND THE WORLD .

the noted peacock throne, a seat between two peacocks, whose spread tails were
decked with sapphires, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and other stones in imitation
of the natural colors, and perched above all was a parrot, said to have been carved
from a single emerald. It seems in design, proportions and decorations to be
perfect, and one can easily appreciate the feeling that prompted the Persian
inscription that is written over the north and south arches of the hall: " If there
be a "Paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this."

The Jama flusjid.

Not far away rises the great dome of the Jama Musjid, which is without rival
among mosques. Six years Shah Jehan was engaged in building it. There are
three stately gates, approached by great flights of steps; the courtyard is 450 feet
square, paved with granite, inlaid wdth marble; the mosque is 260 feet long and
120 feet wide, and the building is crowned b}^ three domes of snow-white marble,
with two loft}'' minarets of marble and sandstone in alternate stripes.

The floor is paved with slabs of white marble, with a border of black; each
slab is three feet long by one and a half broad, and forms "a pew " for one person
on Friday, when devout Mohammedans throng the place.

Delhi's Ruins and flonkeys.

For centuries Delhi was the proudest capital of the Mogul empire, and I spent
a week visiting and studying the ruins of seven distinct ancient cities within a
circle of twenty miles about the present city, each of which was, in its time, a.
place of oriental splendor, but all that can be found of them now are broken streets,
crumbling forts, decaying pillars, leaning towers and tottering walls of grand old
castles and palaces, and where the mighty Moguls reigned in glory the jackals
and wolves awake the echoes, by night, wdth their hideous cries.

The monkey seems to be the present Mogul of Delhi. Hundreds of these
comical creatures are seen on the pavements, fences, trees and housetops of the.
city, and although they are up to all kinds of pranks, 3'ou dare not injure one of
them unless you are willing to pay a fine of fift}- rupees in court.

A school teacher told me that she rented a large building for her classes for a
very small amount cf money because the monke5^s were so troublesome in the
neighborhood. Several times they entered the building most unceremoniously,
scuffling and fighting as they dashed through the door or windows, and, of course,
during the edifying performances her classes suspended operations. A child
asked her, one da}^ whether she would be excused while she went on the roof for
her shoe. A monkey had quietly slipped into the room, snatched up the child's
shoe, which had been left near the door, and there it was on the flat roof trying.
to make an external application of the pupil's understanding!

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A veteran missionar}' told me that a workman of his acquaintance placed his
lunch, wrapped up in a cloth, on the limb of a tree, while he was working near b}-.
A monkey carried the bundle to the top of the tree, sedatel}' unrolled it, ate the
contents and politeh' took the cloth back and hung it in its proper place. The
next day the workman placed a snake in the cloth; his nionke3-ship repeated his
theft, but when the snake sprang out, after blinking his eyes for an instant to help
him take in the situation, the monkey rubbed the snake's head off against the
limb, threw the limp thing at the man, and hung the lunch cloth on the highest
twig of the tree. Doubtless you will think I commenced with the sublime and
closed v.'ith the ridiculous.

An Indian Wolf=nan.

"While in Japan a friend, who spent several years in India, spoke to me of the
wolf-boy who was caught some 3'ears ago in one of the northwest provinces of the
country, and urged me on my arrival in Agra to call at the Secundra Orphanage,
near the city, and see this human curiosity. As this strange creature has never,
as far as I am aware, been mentioned by tourists, and as I have secured reliable
information about him from Dr. C. S. Valentine, principal of the Agra Medical
]\Iissionary Training Institute, I desire to give these fact to my readers.

In the Spring of 1867 a number of natives in search of game in the
imfrequented jungles of Bulandshahr, situated in Northwestern India, surprised
a stra}^ wolf, Avhich they followed to a hillock, out of which rose a rock, and on
this rock, apparently sunning itself, sat a dark, curious-looking object which, to
their great astonishment, turned out to be a human being, who, on seeing the
iLunters, sprang from the rock, and, running on all fours, entered a cave with the
pursued wolf.

The frightened natives returned immediately to Bulandshahr, and, having
related what they saw to the magistrate of the place, they were advised to kindle
a fire at the mouth of the cave and smoke the thing from its den. This was done.
The strange creature rushed out, and after a struggle, during which several of the
natives were bitten, it was overpowered and captured.

The Wolf = Boy.

Here, in the wild jungles, running on all-fours, covered with filth ana vermin,
his face partially hidden by long, matted hair, and having no companion but the
wolf, was a boy, who at the time when he was found could not have been more
than seven or eight years of age. As one listens to Dr. Valentine telling the
story he is tempted to believe in the ancient fable of Romulus and Remus.

A few weeks after he was caught the wolf-boy was sent by the magistrate to
the Secundra Orphanage, and as he entered the institution on Saturday he was

THE KUTUB MINAR, I^EI.HI.

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named Sanicliar. For a loug time after he came to the orphanage it was impossible
to get him to act as a human being. He persisted in eating his food from the
ground, picking up vegetables with his lips and gnawing flesh from bones with his
teeth, like a carniverous animal, and the clothes with which he was supplied he
tore into shreds and cast them away as encumbrances. B}' degrees he grew more
docile, and, although he has never spoken a word, he gradually conformed some-
what to his surroundings, but he insists upon eating with his fingers.

It is thought that he is now about thirty-six or thirty-seven years old, although
he looks much older.

His Appearance and Training.

His head is small, his brovv' uncommonly low and contracted, while his eyes
are of a grayish color, restless and squinting. He has a small, thin, wrinkled
face, on which are two large cicatrices, marks, doubtless, of severe bites that were
received by him. On other parts of his body are found scars and other signs of
rough treatment to which he was subjected no doubt while living in the cave with
his wild companions. When he stands erect he is five feet and two inches in.
height ; in walking he lifts his feet as if he were wading through wet grass,
and when he moves along all the muscles of his body seem to be undergoing a
series of jerks, while his arms are thrown about in such a manner as to convey
the impression that they must greatl}' assist him in his progress.

His head is continuall}' in motion, turning from side to side with great
rapidit}^ while his eyes, which at all times have a hungry appearance, glare as if
he expected an attack from some unseen enem3^ When viewed from behind as he
walks, or when he stands in front of 3'ou with his head hanging on one side,
flashing his sharp eyes and beating his stomach to show that he is hungry, while
he utters inarticulate sounds, he presents a strange appearance indeed. He has
evidently been totally deaf and dumb since his capture, and although all attempts
to teach him to speak have failed, bj^ signs those v.dio care for him can get him to
sit, stand, and run.

If poor Sanichar, the wolf-boy, had received the same care that was bestowed
upon the afflicted Laura Bridgeman, it is possible that his faculties might have
been sufficiently developed to enable him to impart at least something concerning
the first years of his life, which must now alwaj's remain an unsolved myster5^

Invasions of India.

India has suffered from nine great invasions during its checkered histor>^
The first was the Arj^an invasion, which took place many years before the
Christian era; the second was headed by Alexander the Great, when the Bactran
empire was established in the second century B. C; then followed the Scythian

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invasion, first century, A. D. ; the Malimondef Ghazins' conquest, when a Turk

established rule and Mohammedan religion; the invasion of Tamerlane the Great,

139S ; the Mogul empire, founded by Baber, 1524; the Persian conquest of

Mohammedanism and the setting up of the Hindu reaction in 1739; the Ahmed

Shah Abdalis invasion in 1761, in which the Mahratta power was crushed and

more than 700,000 men were killed, and, lastly, the English invasion.

To-da}' nearly all of India is ruled absolutely by Great Britain, while by

sufferance there are certain States supposed to be " independent, ' ' ruled over by

Maharajahs. In these are placed English "residents," or rather English spies,

and the home government at London knows exactly what is going on and the

" policy " of these native rulers is decided for them by the little island across the

seas.

A Native Ruler.

The beautiful city of Jeypore is the capital of the territory belonging to
Maharajah Mardozing, whose province is about the size of Massachusetts, and as
the ruler is a cultivated, progressive gentleman, quite democratic in his manner
of dealing with foreigners, no difficulty was encountered in visiting his palaces
and seeing something of him personally.

His travels in Europe have made their impressions upon him, and the well-
paved streets, the public mint, the museum, the observatory, the hospitals and the
excellent school buildings all go to prove that he is much more Western than
Eastern in his ideas. Indeed the general appearance of the small dominion of
this native prince exhibits a favorable contrast to India generally, over which the
authority of England extends.

The Maharajah's stables contain nine hundred horses, seven hundred camels
and eighty-five elephants; and five hundred servants wait upon his wives and keep
the magnificent palaces and gardens in order. By the kindness of his honor four
elephants were placed at the service of our party of sixteen; each elephant
was attended by two servants from the palace, in livery; and each swaying elephant
back carrying four jolly Americans we proceeded to the royal summer palace,
several miles from the city walls.

A Ride on Elephant-Back.

These great creatures are easily controlled by their drivers, who sit just back
of their ears and frequently use the sharp iron -pointed rod to guide them; but
when the shuffling, flat-footed tread became monotonous, and at my urgent request
the beast was made to trot, we could imagine that we were again on a rolling ocean
steamer, and the performance was soon brought to a close.

Passing through the old city of Ambar, which is now in ruins, the elephants
wind slowly up the steep slopes which lead to the entrance of the palace, which is

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defended by a narrow approach with three massive gateways, the last of which
opens on a great square, where the elephants at the command of the drivers drop
on their knees and, with the aid of short ladders, the riders alight. Through
brass doorways and alcoves of embroidered marble we pass into the second court-
yard, and about us are the " Court of Honor," the " Men's Abode," which is
said to contain the finest portal in the world, the " Hall of Victory," adorned by
panels of alabaster, inlaid with birds, flowers and arabesques in various colors,
the roof glittering with the mirrored and spangled work for which Jeypore art is
renowned, and beyond these is the '•' Alcove of Light," which glows with tender
colors and exquisite inlaid work and looks through arches of carved ala-
baster and laced marble work upon the placid lake and silent mountains. In

the independent State of Baroda, ac-
companied by my host, Captain Lynn,
I visited the palace which contains
the famous regalia of Baroda, among
which is seen the gorgeous collar of
five hundred diamonds, the pendant
of which is the famous ' ' Star of the
Deccan," and a carpet ten feet by six
woven entirely of strings of pure
pearls, with central and corner circles
of diamonds. Near this palace are
two gold cannon, weighing two hun-
dred and eighty pounds each, with
two companions of silver, the wagons,
bullock harness and ramrods being all
of silver. It is the ambition of each
Maharajah to outshine his predecessor.

Indian Customs.

AN INDIAN RUSTIC.

The country is inhabited by people
of various colors, customs and lan-
guages, although it is generally sup-
posed that the different tongues can be traced to the mother Sanskrit, and the
people to a great extent find a common origin in the Indo-Caucasian stock.

The Bengalee, which is very much like the Sanskrit, is spoken in Bengal;

the Orria in the Orissa; the Tamul in Madras, by the Moharaslitros; and the

Hindoosthanee, in all its different forms, is spoken in the northwestern provinces.

The Brahmans, in their religious services and frequently in conversation, use

the Sanskrit, but the other castes generally adopt the Bengalee.

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The Bengalees, in bodily structure, are delicate, and in disposition are mild
and peaceable; on the other hand, the peoples of Upper India are brave, haughty
and warlike, and physically they are robust and muscular.

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Use of Tobacco.

In the use of tobacco these people are much more careful than more
" civilized " nations. The tobacco leaves, with other ingredients, are chopped up,

put in the earth for sev-
eral days, and the
smoker does not draw
the smoke directly into
his mouth, but it passes
through a long pipe,
comes into the bottom
of the hooka, which is
full of cold water, and
making its way through
another pipe at last
reaches the mouth. The
taric, or the juice of the
palm or date tree, is
used by the low caste
people generally; it can
be easil}' pressed from
the stalks of the plant
and it quickly intoxi-
cates.

I noticed that the
Hindus frequently ap-
pealed to the heavenly
bodies. On the temple
walls you find the
signs of the zodiac, and
by the motion of the stars and the eclipses they base their prophecies of good

or evil.

Sacred Time.

Three months in the year are regarded by the Hindus as sacred, viz. , Bois-
Ak (April), Kartic (October), and Magh (January). The first, commencing the
new year, is the holiest of all. The stores and homes are fancifully decorated,
the scales and weights are washed and worshiped, the first page of account books

LI^AMA WITH PRAYING WHHEI,.

WITH F.YES WIDE OPEN.

237

is ornamented at the top with two round iigures marked with red and yellow
powders. Every day the book begins by a deposit of a small amount of money to
the credit of a favorite deity, and when the year draws to a close the money is
accurateh' collected and used for purposes of worship.

On New Year's Day (first of April) all orthodox Hindus are expected to
dedicate pitchers to the gods and deceased ancestors. As these are supposed to be
thirsty at this hot sea-
son earthen, brazen
or silver pitchers (ac-
cording to the cir-
cumstances of the de-
dicator) are placed in
a row, with trays full
of fruit on their tops.
The first is offered to
the gods, the second
to the gooroo, or
priest, the third to the
father of the dead,
the fourth to the
grandfather, etc.
Each day of this
month is marked by
some feast or cere-
mony, and full thirty
daj'S are spent in the
most reckless forms of
dissipation and idola-
trous superstition.

A riarriage Procession.

The visitor to In-
dia cannot well miss a
marriage procession,
for it is of daily oc-
currence in the large
cities, and, as the whole affair is of the most fanta.stic character, accompanied
by the most fearful strains of music, he cannot but be attracted b}^ it.

In the ranks are generally to be seen white horses, painted sky-blue or bright
yellow; sacred bullocks, caparisoned in the most brilliant style, drawing covered

DANCIXG GIRL, OF JEYPORE, INDIA.

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carts, with peep-holes, in which the women of the harem ride. In the midst of
the crowd are painted and powdered men carrying banners, on which are ludicrous
figures, and near the band of musicians is seen the boy bridegroom, perhaps

conspicuously perched
on an elephant, unac-
companied by his
bride, who does not
appear in public.

This is usually
known as a marriage
procession, but it is
really a betrothal, for
years may elapse be-
fore the youth f u 1
groom of ten and the
baby bride of six
summers have any
communication at all
with each other, al-
though nothing but
death can interrupt
the union after the
ceremony is over.

Women's Ornaments.

The brilliant or-
naments worn by girls
and women in every
part of India attract
more attention than
admiration. This
morning I took a men-
tal photograph of a
swarthy female, flash-
i n g and t i n k li n s:

INDIAN ACTRESS.

with bangles on her wrists, ankles, arms, ears and nose. The heavy rings
dragged her ears quite out of shape; her perforated nostrils were ornamented
with trinkets that extended nearly to her chin ; her brown limbs and arms were
decked with great rings of silver and gilt, and part of her bosom was tattooed
with blue and red ink. She was a poor fruitseller in the market-place, but her

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240 AROUND THE WORLD.

poverty could not gain the victory over her vanity, which, to some extent, seems
to be a trait of character among all nations and of both sexes.

There is a class of women called Nautch dancers who are sometimes seen on
the streets, but those whose performances are regarded as most artistic are
monopolized by the rajahs and maharajahs, who allow them to dance in public
during royal receptions and festivities. At the " audience" given by the maha-
rajah at Jeypore, sixty-five of these toe artists entertained the ruler, about a
thousand natives and a small party of Americans, and I suppose the ridiculous
vshuffling gave a fair idea of the typical Oriental dance.

One who is much more gifted in describing a woman's attire than I, furnishes
me with the description of one of these professional and royal dancers, which I
append.

Royal Dancers.

The leading dancer was dressed in a close-fitting garment, with long sleeves
and a very full skirt, much plaited in at the waist, made of the finest transparent
muslin of a light violet color, trimmed nearly to her waist with rows of broad
gold brocade lace, as also about her shoulders and bust with the same. This
dress was confined slightly at her waist by a scarf of bright green muslin spotted
with gold, whose ends of gold brocade fell on her left side, and had the effect of
raising the skirt a little so as to show her trousers of the richest cloth of gold.
With one end tucked into her waistband, a splendid Benares scarf of filmy
amber muslin-gauze, profusely flowered with gold, having borders and ends of the
same, passed over her left arm and head and fell over her right shoulder.

The gold ornaments on her head and arms were all handsome and in great
profusion, and her gold anklets, whose tiny bells jingled as she moved, had a row
of large brilliant stones on their bands, which flashed as she danced, and gave, so
some of the Americans thought, a charming effect to the tinj^ graceful feet on
which they rested.

The Indian flutiny.

There is no bloodier chapter in the history of this centur}^ than that record-
ing the heartrending scenes of the Indian mutin}^ of 1857. As I visited the places
in Cawnpore, Delhi and Lucknow, which have been made historic by the bold
uprising of the natives of India, by the fearful suffering and slaughter of English
women and children, and by the heroic bravery of British soldiery, I experienced
mingled feelings of horror, sadness and approVjation.

While making these studies, I have had by my side most of the time an old
soldier who was wounded three times during the mutiny, who followed Havelock
and Outram in their noble charges and sieges, and whose eloquent recital of these
thrilling events added no little to the interest elicited by these localities.

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After much controversy on the subject the weight of testimony seems to
support the opinion that tlie origin of the outbreak can be found in both poHtical
and religious tendencies that had been growing in power for years before it
actually burst forth.

Long before 1857 it was knowni that the Mohammedans were dissatisfied with
their subordinate position, and their increasing idleness and immoral conduct
rendered them insolent and fractious. This restless feeling was fanned into a
flame when the royal family was dismissed from their residence in the fortress at
Delhi by the English government, and especially when, through the influence of
Lord Hastings, the kingdom of Oude was annexed to the British possessions.
But the Mohammedans, on account of their numerical inferiority, could do noth-
ing as long as the Hindu soldiers remained true to England. The wily Moham-
medans, aided by a concatenation of circumstances, were enabled to overcome
this difficulty. It was sedulously reported that the British government had
determined to force all of its subjects to embrace Christianity, and, in order to
accomplish this end, a plan had been devised b}^ which the whole of the Hindu
sepoys would become defiled and break their caste.

As it was well known that no Hindu could remain clean and touch with
his lips the grease of animals, the Mohammedan emissaries declared that the
government had adopted the device of issuing cartridges greased with pigs' and
bullocks' fat for the Enfield rifles, the end of which must be bitten off" before
they could be used. When a Hindu touched the unclean thing with his lips
and teeth of course he would become an outcast, and there could be no other
resource for him except to join the religion of his masters.

The leaders of the two great classes of natives were soon united in their pur-
poses; regiment after regiment rebelled; fort after fort was besieged; and the spirit
of the insurgents spread rapidly throughout northern India. The King of Delhi
was proclaimed sovereign of the whole country; the stores of firearms and ammu-
nition were seized; English officers were shot down by the native soldiers while
at drill; the residences of foreigners were broken into and plundered as quickly as
they could be reached; neither age nor sex w^as spared, and within twenty-four
hours from the time when the first gun was fired a frightful massacre was being
perpetrated in fifteen or twenty villages and cities.

Nana Sahib's Perfidy.

My old friend, Captain Lee, who received a terrible sabre gash while fighting
on the streets of Cawnpore, pointed out the scenes of the struggle at this place
and vividly described the disaster that befell the British arms early in the combat.

Sir Hugh Wheeler intrenched himself in the barracks with a force of about
three hundred soldiers, who were protecting five hundred women and children,

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the families of officers and civilians. The insurgents were commanded b,v Nana
Sahib, who nurtured a deadly hatred against the government foi declining to
recognize in him the successor of a late ruler to whom he was connected by-
adoption, and, wearied by the desperate resistance of the men in the barracks, he
offered to give to all a safe passage to Allahabad if a surrender was made.

The terms of the perfidious enemy were accepted. Unarmed men, with
hundreds of helpless women and children, marched to the river bank, and just
as they were about to embark a masked battery opened fire on them, the
murderous shots killing six hundred and fifty out of the eight hundred. This
apparent success seemed only to inflame the demon Nana. The one hundred and
fifty prisoners were brought into his presence. The men were tortured and
slowly put to death, and the others, after undergoing the most horrible ordeal,
were butchered by savages and their bodies cast into a well.

Marochetti's beautiful monument raised over this well is a pure white marble
figure of an angel, with folded wings and palm-laden hands, with its eyes sadly
cast downward toward the spot where the dead and dying were hurled.

The Defence of Lucknow.

Although the mutiny broke out in the early summer, Havelock and Outram
did not succeed in forcing their way into Lucknow until the twenty-fifth of
September, when they came to the relief of the British residency. During these
months a handful of men held the place against thousands of native soldiers.
Many within the walls died from wounds and exhaustion, while several officers,
among them Sir Henry Lawrence, fell before the shot of the enemy. Women, as
is always the case under similar circumstances, acted with transcendent heroism,
and when at last succor came, tears of men, women and children mingled in
thanksgiving.

As I walked through the hushed chambers of the Residency, Tennyson's
" Defence of Lucknow " came to mind, and in leaving, as I looked back upon its
broken and shot-scarred walls, I recalled the words of the angelic chorus over the
birth of one greater than Tennyson.

England may well shudder as she notices the indications of another Indian
mutiny. While victory has crowned English arms of late, in Northern India, and
the warlike tribes have been driven from their strongholds in the mountains, the
end is not yet. There is danger now, as there always has been, of a Moham-
medan uprising. The Mohammedan does not make a clear distinction between
the English and other European nations. The reports have been spread among
them that the Sultan's army has defeated the Greeks; this means to them that the
Crescent has been victorious over the Cross; and their hatred against the Christian

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never was more intense than now. It is thonght by some that the mutinous-
rumbling will grow louder; the bloody scenes of 1857 will be repeated; and the
map of the East ma}^ be changed.

Caste and Outcasts.

The caste system, which is so closely connected with the origin of the mutiny,
exists in India as nowhere else in the world. Among the primitive Hindus there-
were only four castes,
viz., the Brahman,
the highest, which
embraced the priest-
hood; the Kais-th,
which included the
trading classes; the
Khetryas, the gov-
erning and soldier
caste, and the Soo-
dras, embracing the
laboring population.

The members of
these primary castes,
notwithstanding they
had a common lan-
guage and religion,
socially were separated
b}^ insurmountable
walls.

In course of time
the four divisions
grew into many more
castes, and at the
present day every line
of activity is formed
into a kind of close
corporation, and each
is absolutel}^ exclusive
of the others. For

HIGH CASTE INDIAN WOMAN. • , .,

instance, there is a
weaver caste, and a weaver's son can marry only a weaver's daughter, and a
weaver's daughter cannot marry any one except a weaver's son; members of the

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sboemaking caste cannot intermarry with any other caste ; and so with the
blacksmith caste, the goldsmith caste, the washer caste, the farmer caste, tlie
barber caste, and so on. With the exception of the Soodra caste, the members
of which are virtually outcasts, no one can come into any of the castes except
by birth.

In other countries, by opulence, learning, application, etc., a person of
obscure birth can exalt himself in the social scale, but not so in India. An
orthodox Hindu will tell you that a person's position at birth is a dispensation
of nature, and as it is impossible to transform a dog into an ox, a deer into a
camel, a horse into an elephant, so you cannot make a barber out of a w^eaver,
a physician out of a cobbler, or a priest out of a farmer.

One of the greatest calamities that can befall a Hindu is to have his caste
broken, for then he is known as an "outcast," and he and his family are
disgraced forever. If a member of one caste eats- anything or drinks anything
that has been touched by any one not belonging to his caste, or if he eats
with, drinks with or sleeps with any such person, he loses caste immediately,
and the restoration of his loss is an impossibility.

Unintentionally I came very near bringing a calamity upon a man's business
and getting myself into a serious complication. In the market-place of Agra I
paused before a stand containing Indian sweetmeats, and desiring to sample the
dark-colored sugar I touched a small lump to my mouth, and was about to replace
the sugar, when three men sprang forward, and such a fuss I have not heard for
many a day. An old gentleman, who has lived fifty-six years in India, told me
that if the lump that had been placed to my mouth had fallen among the sweet-
meats the Hindu would have been obliged to close out his business, and any court
in India would have given him damages to the value of his stock.

Generally it is dangerous for a man to put his mouth into another man's
business. In this instance, I came near making the fatal mistake of putting
another man's business into my mouth! Since studying this question I learned
of the enemy of a certain high caste Brahman who secretly kneaded the flour in
the Brahman's kitchen. The Brahman and his family ate the bread, and they
irretrievably lost their caste and social standing.

If a man of one caste should intentionally or accidentally run his finger into
the mouth of a man of a different caste, immediately the latter becomes an outcast.
Not an external, but an internal, touch does the business. If a pin should drop
from the mouth of a low Soodra, and a high and mighty Brahman (they all go
barefooted) should step on it, he would not only jump high, but he would fall
low, for he would lose caste forever.

The names of thirty-four distinct castes, the outgrowth of the original four,
have been given me, and, doubtless, there are many more recognized by the

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Hindus of India. Ever>^ caste has its paiichayat, or governing committee, and
these committees have absolute power in all social questions. If a young man
desires, or, rather, if his parents desire him, to marry a woman (of course, of his
caste,) the panchayat committee is called together, and they arrange all details;
but the committee sometimes disagrees, a division takes place and the formation
of another caste is the result. A man cannot marry a girl of a higher caste than
the one to which he belongs, for such protection is thrown around her that he can
have no communication with her, but by becoming an outcast he can marry a
damsel belonging to a lower caste.

The visitor to India is immediately attracted by the brilliant marks on the
foreheads of the Hindus. At Calcutta I was informed that these are caste marks,
but this is a mistake. There are two great religious sects — the Shaivs, worshipers
■of Mahader, and the Vishnavi, worshipers of the incarnations of Vishnu. The
horizontal mark indicates the former and the perpendicular mark the latter.

The corrupted Mohammedanism of India, in imitation of the Hindus, recog-
nizes four divisions — the Sheikh, the Mogul, the Bathan and the Saiyad — but
these resemble family tribes more than they do the inflexible caste of the Hindu.

CHAPTER XIT.
THE QUEEN OF THE EAST.

ALCUTTA is the political capital and Bombay is the commer-
cial metropolis of India, and the two are located on opposite
sides of the country, the one looking toward the Bay of
Bengal, the other washed by the sea of Arabia.

Nowhere in Asia have I seen such a variety' of peoples
moving through the streets, dressed in every conceivable
oriental garb and representing so completely every degree of
Asiatic life as here in Bombay. Probably nowhere else in the
world, not even in Alexandria, can be found a population so motley and conglom-
erate, and where such striking varieties of race, nationality and religion are seen
as on these wonderfully busy streets.

While visiting the bazaars, accompanied by an intelligent guide, I passed
Banians of Guzerat, Mahrattas from the Deccan, Mussulmans, Afghans, Persians,
Bedouin Arabs, Turks, Malays, Chinese, Japanese, Abyssinians, Indo-Portuguese,
Jews, Armenians, Europeans, and," of course, the omnipresent Yankee.

Religious Divisions.

But I desire to speak especially of certain sects that thnve in Bombay, and
whose antagonistic opinions on social and religious questions have given rise to
many riots and much bloodshed.

The Jains, together with the Brahmins, lyingaets and Bhattias, comprise the
castes which scrupulously abstain from eating meat.

They form about one-eighth of the population. In religious tenets they
resemble closely the Buddhists and they are a wealthy sect, accumulating much
money in the different trades.

The Brahminical, or orthodox Hindus, form three-fifths of the entire popu-
lation of Bombay, and they are separated into two divisions of worshipers, the
one class paying homage to Vishnu, the preserver, and the other bowing before
Shiva, the destroyer, the second and third persons of the Hindu trinity.

The Banians.

The most important class among the Hindus, and the best known outside of
India, are the Banians. They have the commercial instinct remarkably developed
and largely control the foreign commerce of India with the countries bordering on

(251)

252

AROUND THE WORLD

the Persian gulf and the Indian ocean. To-da}' the trade of the whole east coast
of Africa and Southern and Eastern Arabia, I am told, is mainly managed b}^ the
great Banian merchants of Bombay.

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BOMBAY HARBOR.

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Many of them are Jains, and they have the utmost veneration for animal life.
You can see them carefully laying grains of sugar along the walls bj- the roadside
for the ants to eat or picking up worms and caterpillars and placing them where

WITH

EYES WIDE OPEN.

253

they will not be trampled upon; and they have temples dedicated to animal life,
in which the lowest and most repulsive forms of vermin are religiously preserved.
In some of these miserable men are reported to receive a small recompense for
allowing insects to feed upon their bodies while they sleep.

The Mahrattas, who are loyal and enthusiastic Hindus, have no commercial
instinct and few of them are merchants of any note. They were

originally

SHENT TOWER, BOMBAY.

warriors, politicians and farmers, and to-day most of them hold inferior places
in the community.

The Mohammedans, forming one-fifth of the population, are divided into the
Soonees, who only accept the historical succession of Caliphs after Mohammed,
and the Sheeahs, who are followers of Ali, the fourth Caliph. The Turks and
Arabs are the chief Soonee nation, while the Persians are mainly Sheeahs.

The Parsees.

The Parsees, followers of Zoroaster, and commonly known as ' 'fire- worship-
ers," do not comprise a large proportion of the citizens of Bomba}^ but owing to
their energy, commercial genius, freedom, to a great extent, from caste prejudices

254

AROUND THE WORI^D

and the readiness with which they have adopted European ideas and learned the
English language, have made themselves the most influential and wealthiest class
in the city.

More than eight centuries ago the Parsees, expelled from Persia, sought an
asylum in this part of the world. Their temples contain no images ; in some of
them burn still the sacred fire brought to these shores by their fathers, and

A HINDU SACRIFICE.

the flame at the altar and the sun in the heavens are worshiped as symbolic of
God, who is declared to be the source of all illumination.

The hat worn by the Parsee is quite characteristic and marks him out in any
crowd. It is in the shape of a cow's hoof, and tradition has it that on their arrival
in India, as a token of subjection, they were compelled to adopt this style of head-
gear by the Hindus, who regard the cow as the most sacred of animals.

The manner in which the Parsees dispose of their dead is characteristic
of this people alone, and it impresses the visitor to Bombay as strangely
repulsive. I drove to Malabar Hill, an elevated piece of ground in the outskirts

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256

AROUND THE WORLD

of .the city, on the top of which are located the five noted "Towers of Silence,"
constituting the cemetery of the Parsees.

The Towers of Silence.

These towers are approached through beautifulh^ kept gardens, and the
scenery in the neighborhood is made as attractive as possible.

When a Parsee dies the body is brought up long flights of steps, which are

only touched by the feet of this race. Taken to a temple, where the sacred fire

has been burning un-
interruptedly for hun-
dreds of years and
runeral services are
held, the corpse is car-
ried on a stretcher into
one of these towers
and placed, completely
exposed, upon a grat-
ing; and, after the
bearers and mourners
retire, hundreds ot
vultures, which are
always waiting on the
cornices of the towers
and on the tree-tops,
swoop down to their
human meal, and in
less than thirty min-
utes nothing is left but
the bones, which fall

into a large open space below, where they are decomposed by time and the

elements.

As fire, earth and water are all held b}- the Parsee to be sacred, a bod}' must

not be burned, for this would defile the fire; it must not be buried, for this would

defile the earth; it must not be cast into the river, for this would defile the water;

"but it may be taken into the life of the birds without violating any tenet as to

defilement.

I was informed of one strange fanc}- and superstition of these Parsees.

A dog always accompanies the funeral procession, 5nd when the white cloth

is lifted from the body, before it is left alone with the vultures, if the dog

approaches the corpse and notices it in any way, the dead is believed to be in a

DR. TUPPER IN CENTRAI, INDIA.

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258

'AROUND THE WORI.D

state of happiness; on the contrar}-, if the pup slights the body the friends are left
without hope!

At a distance of a quarter of a mile from the ' ' Towers of Silence ' ' I noticed
these baldheaded vultures, larger than our buzzards, lining the fences and tower-
tops, eagerly looking out for a procession. As our party passed through the
gates, among the birds there was great excitement, but this joyful anticipation
was changed into solenm disappointment when, with vigorous step, we all passed
out again.

Filth and Holiness.

The thought of this disposition of the dead was not so repulsive to me as the
manner in which a band of Hindu priests or fakirs are living not far from this

Parsee cemetery. It
is a peculiar trait of
.the Hindu religion
that its filthiest men
are often reckoned
among its holiest.
I witnessed an illus-
tration of this.

Around the
crumbling steps of an
ancient temple were
gathered a score of
nude fakirs on piles
of ashes who are sup-
posed to have passed
into a state of sinless-
ness. Their hair,
faces and bodies — un-
washed for years —
were covered with dust and dirt, and some of these deluded creatures had re-
mained seated in one position for so long a time that their limbs had become
enormously swollen and were rendered entireh' useless.

I was told that one of these men took an oath twenty-five 3'ears ago that he
would not drop his arm from a lifted position during his life — and there he is.
The member is perfectly dead, and now it is impossible for him to break his oath
should he desire. Another fakir is- pointed out who thirtj^-eight years ago pledged
the, gods that he would neither sit down nor lie down as long as he lived, and
during all these weary years he has found ph3^sical rest only by leaning over the

DR. TUPPER AMONG BUDDHIST ASCETICS, BOMBAY.

HINDU FAKIR WHOSE ARMS HAVE BEEN UP FOR MANY YEARS AND CANNOT

TAKE THEM DOWN. (259)

26o

AROUND THE WORIvD

rope of a swing or by supporting himself against a wall. By these frightful
penances they expect to win happiness in the life to come.

Brilliant Scenes.

Along the Elphinstone Circle and the Esplanade, Bombay presents one of the
most brilliant street scenes in the world. Some of the improvements compare
favorably with those in Vienna, Berlin, Paris or London, and the beautiful
gardens, handsome statuary and ornamental fountains add no little to the general
effect. Many of the broad roads are lined with oleanders, magnolias, laburnums,

jasmines, orange and
lemon trees, and the
white, scarlet and yel-
low honeysuckles and
other bright creepers
often completely cover
the walls and fences.

A delightful sail
of ten miles from the
city brought me to the
Island of Eleplianta,
six miles in circum-
ference, where are
found the celebrated
rock caves, for so many
centuries the holy
temples of worship.
The entrance and
walls of the main Cave
of Eleplianta are sup-
ported by elaborately carved pillars, hewn out of the native rock, and the sombre
chambers are decorated by numerous idols that give proof of the sensual supersti-
tion, as well as the unique art of these religionists of ages gone, whose faithful
successors are here to-day.

An Asylum for Animals.

The members of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals would
enjoy a visit to the Asylum for Aged and Decrepit Animals at Bombay, where
birds and beasts are as carefully nursed as are human beings in well-appointed
hospitals. The establishment was founded by a wealthy native, and here bullocks,
cows, horses, dogs, cats and birds, otherwise homeless, find excellent care, tbod
and shelter.

DR. TUPPER AT JEYPORE, INDIA.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

261

These animals are never killed, and it matters not how aged or badly injured
they are, an experienced doctor and nurse give them every attention until nature
ends their lives. The kind consideration shown all animals through the East,
especially in India, is marked, indeed, and this fact accounts for the tameness of
these creatures on the
streets of all the large
cities. In a hotel at
Allahabad I made my
toilet in the morning
while two bright-plu-
maged birds were hop-
ping on ni}' floor, and
on several occasions I
have dined while rooks
were perched in the
open windows of the
dining-room, looking
at me with their heads
turned to one side, as
if to say, " Hurr}- up,
there; my turn next!"
If I was an American
cat, rat or jaybird and
possessed my present
knowledge of the world,
I would hie to the land
of the Hindu and
defend his religion with
all my teeth and claws.

Famine in India.

Human 1 i f e has
received far less atten-
tion in India than brute
life. The horrors of fam-
ine have overshadowed
the land, and if it were

not for the information given to the world by Americans there would be great
ignorance on the subject, and if it were not for the aid rendered by Americans the
list of those who have died of starvation would be much longer. As in the

BUDDHIST PKIESTF.S.S.

262 AROUND THE WORI^D

famine oi 1877-7S millions of these miserable beings starve to death without the
knowledge of the government.

Twenty years ago Lord Lytton, then viceroy, declared in a public address tnat
only three or four persons in all India had died for lack of food, while, it was
proved afterward, that in the district where he spoke sixty thousand persons were
starving at the very time of his optimistic deliverance. That famine was not so
widespread as the one that has lately afflicted this unfortunate people. It
raged eighteen months; two-thirds of the entire country was affected by the terrible
scourge, and the number of victims, according to Renter's agent in India, exceed
eight million! Boarding a train at Bombay, within a few hours' ride beyond the
Ghats, or mountain-range, north of the metropolis, you enter upon a parched
desert of yellow-brown soil which is the home of millions of human souls, and
which extends for thousands of square miles, its hard and grassless surface relieved
now and then by the mango tree and collection of mud huts, with thatched roofs,
about which are huddled groups of emaciated human beings. A few miles away
from the railroad you are attracted here and there b}' the gruesome sight of
skeletons of men, women and children, glistening and bleaching in the sun, and
no one knows and no one cares who they were. No, this cannot be true; for far
across the Pacific have come to famine-stricken India tokens of a universal IcK'e and
sympathy. In the pulpit, on the platform, and through the press earnest appeals
have been made throughout America for India's starving millions ; and no efforts
in this line have been more prompt, more eloquent and more successful than those
that have been made through the columns of the Chfisfian Herald. Dr, Klopsch,
the proprietor of this journal, with his characteristic energy and foresight, early
took in the dreadful situation, and b}' means of his widely-circulated paper he has
raised in corn and money nearly $300,000, which has been distributed b}' over
sixt}" missionaries in the famine district. Free shipment of corn was allowed by
Congressional action ; the " City of Everett," loaded with provisions, sailed from
the Pacific coast, and through the Christian Herald Commissioner and the Inter-
denominational Relief Committee (of which Bishop Thoburn was chairman) the
distribution of money and provisions was ably managed.

CHAPTER XIII.

FAREWELL TO INDIA, GREETING TO EGYPT.

OR a number of days our steamer plowed through the waters of
the Arabian and Red seas from Bombay to Suez, and the
monotony of the long trip was relieved quite delightfully by
the companionship of agreeable Americans, Englishmen and
Frenchmen, by the entertaining program arranged through the
genius of the " amusement committee" day by day, by the
appearance now and then of the great fish and strange birds
of these seas and by our short stay at Aden, where I enjoyed a ten-mile drive
through two Arabian villages and saw the Arab for the first time on his native
heath.

I am now looking upon the narrow w^aters of the Suez Canal, and, although the
cutting of this canal and the repeated struggles and disappointments of the noted
M. de Lesseps are old stories, I shall venture to give some facts that are of fresh
interest to me and may be also to my readers. It is popularly supposed that the
union of the Red and the Mediterranean seas were not effected until the famous
French engineer came upon the scene, but this is a mistake.

Planned by the Pharaohs.

The Isthmus of Suez, a neck of land which joins Asia to Africa, is a little
over ninety miles wide, and modern investigations have proved that as far back as
Rameses II., one of the oppressors of the Israelites, a canal was cut partly through
the isthmus. This work was continued by Nekan (B. C. 6io), Darius and
Ptolemy Philadelphus, and, still later, the completed canal joined the two seas.

During the middle ages several unsuccessful attempts were made to cut a new
canal, but no serious effort was made until the year 1798, when Napoleon
Bonaparte directed M. Lepere to survey the route across the neck of land, but after
great waste of time and money the report was sent to the French Emperor that,
as the difference between the levels of the Red Sea and the Mediterranean was
thirty-three feet, it would be impossible to build a canal that would prove to be
of permanent benefit.

The New Canal.

Not until the year 1846 was it found that the level of the two seas is
practically the same, and in the year 1854 M. de Lesseps laid his plans for a canal
before Said Pasha; two years afterward they were sanctioned, and two years later

264

AROUND THE WORLD

the work began. The canal leads into several lakes. The filling of the Bitter
Lakes with sea-water from the Mediterranean was begun on the eighteenth of
March, 1869, and the whole canal was opened for traffic on November 16 of the
same year. An enthusiastic engineer, in whose company I spent some time, gave
me some interesting details on the subject of the construction of this important
commercial highway.

The channel which leads into the canal at the Suez end is three hundred j^ards
across in the widest part, the average width of the dredged canal is about ninety
feet, and the average depth is about twenty-eight feet.

On a mound nearly half-way between Suez and Shaluf are granite blocks

bearing traces of cuneiform
and hieroglyphic inscriptions
recording the name of Darius,
and these are evidently the
remains of one of a series of
buildings erected along the
line of the old canal, wdiich
was restored and probably
completed b}- Darius.

Records of Persian Work.

While digging the canal
M. de Lesseps and his work-
men found the ruins of sev-
eral buildings which have
thrown light upon the subject of ancient architecture, and some of the granite
slabs excavated by him and his associates, inscribed with the names of Darius
and other distinguished characters of history, are held as precious relics.

The track of the canal through the Bitter Lakes is marked b}' a double row of
buoys. The distance between each buoy is about three hundred and thirty yards,
and the space between the two rows is thirty feet. After passing out of the lake
channel into the canal proper you enter what is known as the plain of El-Gisr,
or the "bridge," which is fifty -five feet above the level of the sea, and through
this a channel eighty feet deep had to be cut.

A few miles further a more remarkable formation is .seen. It is a height
between the lakes of Bahah and Menzaleh, and as it forms a natural bridge it is
supposed that over this passed the invading armies that entered Egypt, which
supposition gave rise to the name, " The Bridge of Nations."

The town at the Mediterranean entrance is called Port Said, in honor of Said
Pasha. Its harbor and two breakwaters are wonderful pieces of workmanship.

DR. TUPPER AND FRIENDS SAILING UP THE RED SEA.

WITH KYES WIDE OPEN. 265

The breakwater on the east is over a mile, and the one on the west is still longer,
and the latter is lengthened yearh- to protect the harbor from the mud-carrying
current which always flows from the west and would block up the canal but for
the breakwater.

The Great French Engineer.

We are convinced that the completion of the canal is due, perhaps, less to
originality of conception than to the intensit)' of conviction and invincible
perseverance of the great engineer, whose faith in his enterprise seemed to remove
mountains, and whose magnetic personalit}- appealed successfully at last to those
who were at first his most persistent antagonists. The British government was
resolutely hostile to the scheme; the Ottoman Porte, the real suzerain of Egj'pt,
partly influenced by the attitude of England, and partly by its dislike to anything
tending to possible complication within the bounds of its own dominions, did
everything in its power to discourage the affair; the leading engineers in Europe
declared against the practicability of the enterprise, and their adverse verdict did
much toward sealing the coffers of European capitalists, and, worst of all, as so
often is the case in important matters with us all, those to whom he confided, and
upon whom he absolutely depended, failed him at the critical moment.

But M. de Eesseps seemed never daunted by the political and financial
difficulties which lay in his path, and with that power of persuasion that in his
latter years led him to make some fatal mistakes, he convinced the Vicero}' of
Egypt that his reign would be made glorious b}^ granting the powers for the
construction of the canal; he persuaded the French people to embark their savings
ill a foreign and romantic undertaking; he inspired with his hopeful enthusiasm
his engineers, contractors and every member of his staff, and, indeed, his magnetic
influence extended from the throne to the trowel; from the Arab sheiks to the
humblest laborer.

I am told that up to the moment the canal was opened it was thought by
some who posed as experts that the largest steamers would be unable to navigate
its waters, and at best it would only become a channel through which barges
might be towed with goods in competition with the Egyptian Railway.

New Era in Commerce.

The opening of the canal marked a new era in the commercial life of Europe.
Heretofore the long and expensive route by the way of the Cape of Good Hope
was taken by steamers from London to the ports in India, China and Japan, but
now scores of days and thousands of miles can be saved by this narrow highway
of less than a hundred miles in length. The distance from London to Bombay
via the Cape of Good Hope is 10,719 miles, the distance from London to Bombay
via the Suez Canal is only 6274.

266

AROUND THE WORLD

At the opening of the canal, and for several years subsequently, the dues
were levied at the rate of ten francs ($2.00) on the registered or net tonnage of
steamers, but in 1S72 the company determined to levy the same toll, not on the
net, but on the gross tonnage of all vessels. But as ships had been built and
capital invested largeh^ on the strength of the canal charges levied on the princi-
p^le of ten francs on net tonnage, there arose serious complaints. Strong appeals
were made to the English government to protect British interests; the Message-

THE PORT OF ISMAILIA, OX THE SUEZ CANAI,.

ries Maritimes of France and other foreign companies protested against the change;
an international commission was appointed by the Ottoman Porte to determine
the basis on which dues should be levied, and, after some delay, a compromise
was effected, which seemed to satisfy the interested parties.

Cost of the Canal.

The amount of ^16,000,000 is often quoted as the entire cost of the construc-
tion of the canal, but this is not correct. To this enormous sum must be added
the amount of the indemnity paid b}^ the Egyptian government, according to the

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 267

award of the Emperor of France in 1864, for the retrocession of territory and
other privileges, and, as this indemnity amounted to nearly ^4,000,000, the total
for constructing the canal aggregated ^20,000,000, or about $100,000,000.

On account of the narrowness of the canal, every five miles a siding is pro-
vided to enable ships to be moored out of the main channel, so that other vessels
may pass, and other expensive improvements have been made in recent years.
But, apart from these practical considerations, the Suez Canal is of thrilling
interest.

To open the way for the world's commerce, the pickaxe and shovel of mod-
em enterprise have cut through a region enriched by the memory of the greatest
events of histor\-. On either side of the canal stretches the plain where Abraham,
four thousand j-ears ago, wandered from far-awa}^ Ur, of the Chaldees; not far
from this spot are the ruins of ancient Zoan, where Moses performed his miracles;
nearby is where the host of Pharaoh perished through the sudden rising of a
southwest gale, and thus this narrow ribbon of water links together the great past
and the greater present, pointing, let us hope, to a still greater future.

Three Egypts.

Three Egypts attract the attention and elicit the interest of the traveler — the
Egypt of the ancients, the Egypt of the "Arabian Nights," and the Eg3'pt of
modern enterprise.

The first is seen in excavated cities, in pyramids, temples and tombs; the
second is witnessed in the strange scenes of the narrow streets of portions of
Cairo and in the queer towns of the country districts, and the last displays itself
along the Suez Canal and in the commercial din of modernized Alexandria.
You recall the words of the Jewish physician in the story of " The Hump-
back: " " He who has not seen Cairo has not seen the world. Its soil is gold, its
Nile is a wonder, its women are like the black-eyed virgins of Paradise." While
we may differ from the opinion thus expressed, we must agree that as we visit the
labyrinth of narrow lanes which intersect the mediaeval city, sights appear in this
Mohammedan capital that cannot be duplicated in all the world.

In Narrow Streets.

Passing down the winding alleys, where a tiny patch of sky marks the nar-
row space between the lattice windows of the over-hanging upper stories, crowded
and jostled by a swarming mass of human beings, camels, asses and donkeys, we
can readily imagine ourselves in the gateway of Ali of Cairo. We can nearly
hear the Three Kalenderis entertaining the portress and her fair sisters with the
history of their lives, and if we come this way by night, we would not be much

i26S)

STREET IN MODERN CAlKu.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 269

surprised to see the good Harun-al-Rasliid liimself, coming stealthily on his mid-
night rambles, with Jaafer at his heels and black Mesrur clearing the way. The
histories of the Thousand and One Nights are enacted every day upon these
streets, and the truth of to-day is stranger than the fiction of yesterday.

Bazaars and Public Buildings.

I have just returned from a five-mile walk up the street called " Muski " and
through the native bazaars. Here is the Norman-looking eleventh century gate
of the old Fatimi city; yonder is tlie Mosque of El-Hakim, the mad founder of
the Druse superstition; there is the exquisite tomb of Kalaun. Now the x\zhar
University is passed, where 2000 students from all parts of Asia and Africa, even
from distant Sierra Leone, are taught gratuitousl}' by professors learned in the
erudition of the Egj'ptians. Here the massive gate Zawila is passed, where the
people still offer mysterious trophies of hair and teeth to the famous saint who is
believed to hide behind the door, and where, in 15 17, the Turkish conqueror of
Egypt, Selim the Grim, hung the last of the Mamluke Sultans by his neck until
he breathed his last; and just beyond is the Sultan Hasan's mosque, the largest
in Cairo, with its splendid arches and .spire-like minarets.

Picturesque Costumes.

In picturesqueness of costume the peoples 5'ou meet on the Esbekyeh or Broad-
way of Cairo lead the world. Instead of the abominable trousers and buttoned
coats of the Europeans 5-ou are greeted by the graceful turban and flowing robes
that remind you of the classic antique.

Before the walk is over you have passed and repassed representatives of nearly
every nation under the skies, and your mind is confused with images of green-
turbaned sherifs, or descendants of the Prophet Mohammed, blue-turbaned Copts,
red-fezzed, frock-coated officials, extremely naked children, sedate professors with
snowy coils of muslin round their shorn skulls, tradesmen in striped kaftans,
squatting cross-legged in their little boxes of shops, solemnly puffing at their
chibuks or narghilas, and the endless number of donkeys, carrying upon their tiny
backs and pipe-stem legs enormous loads, big, laz}^ men, or a balloon of black
silk, which nearly extinguishes the little trotting creature, and which, from the
pair of lustrous black eyes shining above a white face veil, you speculate to be a
Turkish lad}-.

Now and then a " clear-the-way " cry is heard, and here comes dashing along
a handsome equipage, preceded by runners gorgeously dressed and carrying long
white wands in their hands.

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(270)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

271

Among the Shops.

But the candle and rose bazaars have greater attractions for us. In these
famous alleys the old Turk, with flowing caftan and pure white turban, from his
dark dingy shop dispenses delicious odors, m}^sterious pastes and essences, with

-TJ-

LOWER CI.ASS WOMAN, C.\IRO.

kohl for the eyes and henna for the fingers; the roaming peddlers patronizingly
offer vou sandal- wood fans, beads, trinkets, gaudy Syrian crapes, Egyptian sweet-

272

AROUND THE WORLD

meats, fruit in baskets balanced on their heads, colored slippers of kid and satin,
elaborately wrought in gold, silver and gilt, turned up at the toes, and wonder-

A. MORNING RIDE.

ful pipes of every description, with graceful stems of carved amber. From this
.scene we pass into another quite different.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

273

Saracenic Architecture.

Before you loom up the stately line of mosques, which present the most
beautiful and continuous series of Saraceuic mouuments in the world. They show

DANCE GIRL, CAIRO.

us the chaste and restrained stage of Art between the over-elaboration of the
Alhambra and the heaviness of the Mohammedan architecture of India.
iS

274 AROUND THE WORLD

The study of the cloistered mosques requires several days at least. Separated
not far apart, you find the ruined but beautiful Ibn-Tulun (ninth century), the
spacious Azhar and El-Hakim (tenth century), and among transept or cruciform
mosques Kalaun (thirteenth century), Sultan Hasan and Kait Bej' (fourteenth
century), which are found eastward out of the city among that wilderness of tawney
domes and minarets, miscalled the "Tombs of the Khalifs." In every mosque
here is an inlaid, carved or painted niche in the wall, indicating the kibla or
direction of Mecca. Round this niche centres the best decorations — mosaics of
marble and porphyry of ivory and mother-of-pearl, wood and plaster carving,
stained glass set in cunningly, shaded borders and Kufic inscriptions, and near by
is the pulpit, frequently a splendid piece of carved and inlaid paneling, arranged
in complicated geometrical patterns, and in front stands the lectern or platform,
where the Koran is recited.

Mohammedan Homes and Women.

While many of the columns of the cloisters are Roman in style, the domes
and minarets w'ere first used in Egypt before they were known in Europe. A
glimpse of the interior of a good Mohammedan residence reveals the skillful use of
paneling and tiles, the rich effects of facets of stained glass, and the mazy inter-
twinings of the latticed meshrebuja, but very few visitors are allowed to go beyond
the inner court, round which the house is always built, where the windows are
thicklj' webbed with carved and turned lattice-work, through which, now and then,
you can detect female eyes, fringed with kohl, peering at the intruder. How
wretched must be these Mohammedan women !

They have no mental resort; education is unknown among them; they are
entirel}' shut out from all society; it is a disgrace for them to show their faces;
they know no such thing as conjugal love, and, perhaps, the worst cross of all to
them, they can only see what is going on in the outside v/orld through the medium
of stolen glances !

At the Citadel.

We now stand on the great parapet of the magnificent Citadel of Cairo, where
Saladin stood when he had built the fortress. The sweep of vision takes in all of the
" Mother of the World ;" miles away can be seen the mighty pyramids, standing
against the deep-blue sky, and far in the distance you can trace the historic Nile
until it is lost in the sands o the Arabian Desert. Just below you is the narrow
passage where Mohammed AH massacred the Mamlukes; yonder is the gate
through which a handful of dragoons rode on September 14, 1SS2, in the face of
eight thousand of Arabi's followers, and spread beneath us is a labyrinth of
crumbling flat-roofed houses and green shady courts, overtopped by hundreds of

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

275

chiseled domes and tapering minarets, whence the evening call to prayer may now
be heard resounding from the muezzin's throat: " AlJalnc Akbar.'" There is no

god but God. Mohammed is the Apostle of God.
salvation. Allalm Akbar L.ailaha illa-llah.

Come to pra3'er. Come to

276 AROUND THE WORLD

With the Dervishes.

On Friday, at i o'clock, a sacred day and hour, we beheld the ridiculous
performances of the whirling and howling dervishes. Mingled feelings of pity,
amusement and disgust possess one as these senseless antics are w^atched. Upon a
raised platform a ring is made of mats upon which thirty or forty of these long-
haired, half-nude howlers sit, with wagging heads, until the monotonous notes of a
fife and a sort of Chinese tom-tom break the silence, and now led by the patriarch

dance; of the dervishes.

in the centre, both lungs and each particular muscle of every man are put into
vigorous exercise.

The first motion is that of throwing the head and upper portion of the body
forward and bringing it back with a sudden jerk, which would ordinarily break a
man's neck, but which seems to make these creatures more livel}', and, encouraged
by the success of this first feat, they enter upon a series of vocal and gymnastic
exhibitions that are only terminated when their brains seem to be addled and
physically they are completely exhausted. But before these afflictions befell me I

WITH EYEvS WIDE OPEN.

277

quietly departed. A short and pleasant excursion was made to the Island of
Roda, where we were shown the identical spot (!) where Moses was rescued by the
King's daughter, and the nilometer, which marks the rise and fall of the Nile, but
a donkey ride of eight miles to the famous ostrich farm afforded greater pleasure.
Fourteen hundred and fifty of these immense African fowls are kept in walled
yards, and they can be seen at every age, from the awkward little creature that
has just broken the immense egg to the giant black- plumaged male ostrich
twenty-five years of age.

TKMPI,K AT ABYD03.

CHAPTKR XIV.
THE HISTORIC NILE AND THE EXCAVATOR'S PICKAXE.

I^^OR weeks I have been looking upon walls that are books. From
.jnf their elaborate picture-writings we learn the daily life, the religion

and the superstitions of the people who were buried from four to
^ ;-/<u ^ gyg thousand years ago.

j\^^*^ It is ni}' purpose, in this chapter, to give a partial account of

-^ my brief investigations of these excavated cities and temples of

Egypt that are throwing so much light just now upon the past records of this
wonderland of history.

About five miles northeast of Cairo is a little village built upon part of the
site of the ancient town of Heliopolis, called " On " in Genesis, the " House of
the Sun " in Jeremiah, and here may be seen the sycamore tree, usually calkd
the "Virgin's Tree," under which, tradition says, the Virgin Mary sat and
rested with the young child during her flight to Egj^pt. Near by stands an
obelisk, sixty-five feet high, set up by Userten I., about B. C. 2433.

Heliopolis.

This ancient city, whose ruins cover an area of three miles square, played an
important part in history. The greatest and oldest Egyptian college for the
education of the priesthood and the laity stood here. During the twentieth
dynasty the Temple of Heliopolis, with its staff" of thousands, was one of the
wealthiest in all Egypt. It was here that Joseph married the daughter of Potiphar,
a priest of On (or Heliopolis), near the Goshen of the Bible. At this place the
Mnevis bull was worshiped, and here it was that the Phoenix, or palm bird,
brought its ashes, after having raised itself to life at the end of each period of five
hundred years, and it was round about Heliopolis that Alexander the Great
camped on his way from Pelusium to Memphis.

Memphis,

The ruins of Memphis and the antiquities of Sakkarah are even of greater
interest. On the ground lying for miles about these two villages once stood the
glorious city of Memphis, which Herodotus tells us, was built by Menes, the first
ruler of Egypt.

(278)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN

279

The original city was located upon a fertile and well-wooded tract of laud.
Diodorus speaks of its green meadows, intersected with canals, and of their pave-
ment of lotus flowers. Pliny talks of trees there of such girth that three men
with extended arms could not span them, and Martial praises the roses and wine
brought from thence to Rome.

About 4000 B. C. the city reached a height of splendor which was probably
never excelled. When Rameses II. returned from his wars in the East, he set up

WATER-WHEEI, OX THE NUE.

a statue of himself, which can now be seen. Cambyses, the Persian, conquered
the city and established his garrison there, and until the founding of Alexandria,
its power and glon,- were unexcelled.

The colossal statue of Rameses II. was discovered in 1820. The name of
Rameses is inscribed on the belt of the statue. On the end of the roll which the

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King carries in his hand are the words, " Rameses, Beloved of Amen," and by
the side of the King are figures of his daughter and son.

Antiquities of Sakkarah.

The tract of land at Sakkarah, near the present Memphis, which formed the
great burial ground of the ancient Egyptians at all periods, is about one and a
half miles long and one mile wide, and the most important antiquities to be found
there are the * ' Step Pyramid, ' ' oblong in shape, with an extreme length of 396
feet and a height of 197 feet, supposed to be older than the great pyramids of
Gizeh; the pyramids of the kings of the fifth and sixth dynasties, on which have
been found some valuable inscriptions, and from which have been taken fragments
of the royal mummies. The tomb of Phi, which represents this confidant of the
king superintending all the various operations connected with the management of
of his large agricultural estates, with illustrations of hunting and fishing expe-
ditions, and the Apis mausoleum, which contained the vaults where all the Apis
bulls that lived in Memphis were buried.

According to Herodotus, " Apis is the calf of a cov^- incapable of conceiving

another offspring, and the Egj'ptians say that lightning descends upon the cow

from heaven, and that from thence it brings forth Apis. The calf is black, has a

square spot of white on the forehead; on the back the imprint of an eagle; in the

*

tail double hairs, and on the tongue a beetle."

Above each tomb of an Apis a chapel was built, and on the tombs writings
have been found that give accurate chronological data for the history- of Egypt.

On the Banks of the Nile.

But we must turn toward the banks of the historic Nile, where the most
important and interesting antiquities have been found. On the east bank of the
river, 150 miles south of Cairo, is the lonely Convent of the Virgin on the Bird
Mountain (Gebelet-Tayr), where the monks swing themselves down the steep
rock which overhangs the water, priding themselves, despite the discomforts of
their lives, on the fact that they belong to the sleepy old Coptic Church, which
has remained crusted in its simplicity for 1500 years, since the council of Chalcedon.

Sailing down, or rather up the Nile, to which nature has given her own
unspeakable loveliness and art and history have added their own inspiring
associations, we pause only a short while to see the tombs where the mummied
"serpent of the Nile" was reverently laid to rest by the crocodile worshipers,
and we take only a lingering glance at Asyut, the capital of Upper Eg3'pt, nestled
in the glowing Libyan hills, for we are bound for the great temples of Egypt and
■we are not tempted to tarry.

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282 AROUND THE WORLD

We first reach beautiful Abydos — embraced by hills, veiled in palm groves,
surrounded by waving fields of ripening grain — with its noble ruins carved all
ov^er with delicate reliefs, wherein King Seti stands forth, offering to Osiris, and
where the Tables of Kings is set forth, with all their names, to the joy of modern
scholars.

Abydos and the flemnonium.

Abydos, Thebes and Heliopolis represented the homes of religious thought
and learning in Egypt, and Abydos, especially, was the centre of the great Osiris,
the type of the conflict between good and evil, life and death, resurrection and
immortality to every pious Egj'ptian of old. This sacred city is mentioned by
Plutarch, Athenaeus, Ptolemy and Pliny, and Strabo tells us that at one time it
was second only to Thebes. There are two magnificent monuments here.

The Temple of Seti, or the Memnonium, is built of fine white calcareous
stone, the pillars are inscribed with religious scenes and figures of the king and
the god Osiris. On the south wall is an inscription in which Rameses II., relates
all that he has done for the honor of his father's memory, how he erected statues
of him at Thebes and Memphis. The second hall is supported by thirty-six
columns, elaborately sculptured, arranged in three rows.

The scenes on several of the walls set forth, with remarkable artistic power,
royal ceremonies, and in one of the corridors is the famous tablet of Abydos,
which gives the names of seventy-six kings of Eg^'pt, beginning with Menes and
ending with Seti I.

The Temple of Osiris.

A little to the north of the building of w^hich we have spoken is the Temple
of Rameses II., dedicated by this king to the god Osiris, and it was thought by
many distinguished scholars to be the famous shrine which all Egypt adored, but
the excavations of M. Mariette proved that it was not.

The fragment of a tablet containing the names of Egyptian kings, now in the
British Museum, came from this temple, and the inscriptions and ornamentations
on the walls are of value.

Our next stopping place is over five hundred miles up the Nile, where the
wonderfully preserved Temple of Denderah calls forth exclamations of pleasure.
Although it is thought not to be older than the later Ptolemies, it is the most
majestic monument that has so far been visited by us.

The names of several of the Roman emperors appear on various parts of the
temple ; the well-known portraits of Cleopatra and Caesarion, her son, are on the
end wall of the exterior; a dromos of about two hundred and fifty feet leads into
a portico, supported by twenty-four, Hathor-headed columns. Several chambers
show beautiful decorations, and on the highest ceiling is the famous " Zodiac,"

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

283

which was thought to have been made in ancient Eg3-pt, but which is disproved
by the inscription A. D. 35, written in the twenty-first j-ear of Tiberius.

All through this marvelous structure we meet a happy blending of Egyptian
seriousness with Grecian grace, which lends enchantment to every part of it.
We now turn our faces again up the river, and with thrilling anticipations of the

INTERIOR OF TEMPtE OF ABYDOS.

fulfillment of many dreams, we approach the site of ancient Thebes, " the city of
a hundred gates " of Homer's verse.

Wondrous Thebes.

Beautiful for situation was the ancient city of Thebes.

The mountains on the east and west side of the river sweep away from this
historic spot and leave a broad plain on each bank of several square miles in

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extent. In this \vide space, where modern Paris could stand, was located the
renowned city which Horner sings about in his ninth Iliad, and which Diodorus,
who visited it about B. C. 57, tells us was not only the most beautiful and state-
liest city of Egypt, but could not be excelled in all the world.

Within her hundred gates were kept 20,000 chariots of war. The succeeding
kings from time to time adorned this pride of their kingdom with monuments of
gold, silver, ivory, alabaster and granite. Multitudes of colossi and obelisks
were reared in her streets. Wonderful sepulchres of the ancient kings, forty-

OUR NII,E BOAT.

seven in number, excelling in grandeur, according to Strabo (B. C. 24), every-
thing of the kind in the world, were built in her neighborhood; and as little by
little the local god, Amen-Ra, became the great god of all Egypt, his dwelling-
place, Thebes, gained in importance and splendor, reaching its highest point of
glory during the rule of the eighteenth and nineteenth dynasties.

Up and Down the Nile.

The two great divisions of Egypt into Upper and Lower, made from time
immemorial, and the expressions of " up " and "down " the Nile are somewhat
puzzling to the tourist when he first travels through this land of historic interest.

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Toward the Mediterranean Sea is known as Lower Egypt, way out toward
Nubia is Upper Egypt, and around Cairo and Alexandria we are down the Nile,
while way down here at Assouan, between seven and eight hundred miles south
of the sea, we are far up the Nile. Everything is decided by the course of the
great river, the river and country toward its mouth is " down;" toward its source

it is "up."

Although vast preparations are being made by the British and Egyptian
military powers for the war in the Soudan, and nearly all the boats on the Nile

THE NILE'S DELTA.

are being chartered by the government for the transportation of troops, after
negotiating for some days, a party of five Americans (including the writer) and one
Scotchman was formed, and securing a steam launch, manned by an Egyptian
engineer and fireman, a Libyan pilot, a Greek cook and steward, a Nubian waiter
and a Soudanese dragoman, we steamed up the river, passing numbers of boats
crowded with bright uniformed and fierce-looking militia, and after nearly two
weeks of life on the water of a stream that has supported by its annual overflow
countless millions during the last sixty centuries, we are at the extreme southern

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(2«7)

288 AROUND THE WORLD

boundarj^ of Egypt, surrounded by the evidences of a civilization that existed
four thousand years before the commencement of the Christian era.

Centre of Ancient Culture.

It must not be thought that the real Egypt is the vast country outlined on
our maps, reaching to the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea, and embracing equatorial
regions. It is and was, even far back in the days of the Pharaohs and Ptolomies,
the valley of the Nile, from the first cataract, where I am now writing, to the
Mediterranean Sea, shut in by the Libyan and Arabian deserts.

In this district, less than a thousand miles in length, were centred much of
the art, science and philosophy of the ancient world, and here were reared those
time-defying monuments which after a burial of thousands of years are being
resurrected by modern enterprise, and to-day are the wonder of an age that until
lately supposed that these ancients were uncivilized barbarians who could add
nothing to our boasted omniscience.

The Orientals compare the long, narrow valley- of the Nile and its broad,
triangular- shaped embouchure or delta to a long-stemmed fan, and the city of
Cairo is called the "brightest gem in the handle of the green Egy^ptian fan."
Just before it reaches the sea the river parts into several streams, and, during flood
time, it pours 700,000,000 cubic metres of water daily into the Mediterranean
through its different mouths. ■

Once clear of the belt of salt lagoons that fringes the sand hills behind
Alexandria, the Delta spreads before us the richest soil of Eg3^pt. The alluvial
deposit washed down annually by the flooded Nile from its gigantic reservoirs in
the Abyssinian mountains nourishes magnificent crops, and the spreading arms of
the river, the intersecting network of canals and multitudes of sakiyas or water-
wheels regulate the distribution of the water to perfection.

Wheat, maize, barlej'', rice, millet, beans, cotton and indigo are grown here in
luxuriance, and a succession of three crops in the year is not unusual with skillful
farmers.

The mud villages, with their little white mosque and minaret, their pigeon
towers and the sparse cluster of palms or tamarisks by the well, w^here women
and girls are filling the great earthen pitchers, which they afterward balance with
a stately grace upon their heads, make a characteristic picture, but in the Delta
there is nothing, perhaps, that need detain the traveler save the wonderful exca-
vations and discoveries of the " Egypt Exploration Fund " at the Bible cities of
Pithom and Zoan (Tanis) in the land of Goshen and the famous Greek port of
Naucratis.

At Pithom you may see the ancient sun-dried bricks which Pharaoh's task-
masters set the children of Israel to make without straw. In this part of the

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country the 011I3' town worth a visit is Tanta during the great periodical festivals
of the Saint El-Bedawi, when revels take place which are the modern representa-
tives of the Bubastian orgies of which Herodotus writes.

Scenes of the Voyage.

A Nile voj^age, with a small, congenial party, in a well-appointed and well-
furnished boat, under our own control, is one of the most perfect forms of human

XHB VOCAl, MEMNON.

enjoyment. The charm is something quite peculiar. In all the world, perhaps,
no river shows such varying moods as the Nile, despite its smoothness; and the
exquisite tints of the scenery, presenting a vivid contrast between the brown,
Nile-mud villages, fringed with palm groves and crowned with white minarets,
and the waving fields of pale-green corn or sweet-scented bean and purple lupin
blossom, are indescribable.

X

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During the day the book that you bought in Cairo to while away the weary
hours of the long journey is frequently forgotten as you watch a strange-looking
craft exactly after the pattern of those used five thousand years ago, or a long
line of fifty or a hundred camels, followed by Bedouins of the desert, attract your
attention, or you interestingly follow the movements of the nude Nubians as they
work the shadufs, lifting the leathern buckets, filled with water from the Nile over
three or four terraces and dash the fertilizing liquid into the furrows of the fields;
and you lay aside your book altogether tow^ard the hour of sunset, when the color
which was lost in the quivering white heat of noon returns to clothe the land with,
hues of unspeakable beauty and the evening breeze begins to rustle in the palms,
Avhose long, thin shadows now steal tow^ard the stream, and a deep, violet haze
"begins to creep along the clefts and hollows of the rose-red range of the Lybian
laills, flushing the whole sky with the tender tints of the after-glow till the twilight
deepens under the palm groves and the rippling river glides silentl}^ by under the
twinkling stars, as, one by one, they dot the growing darkness of the sky, bright
liarbingers of the brighter morn that now shows her beaming face over the track-
less Arabian Desert.

A Co-operative System.

I find that there is a co-operation of labor adopted by the people of this Nile
Valley that has been in existence for ages, and which goes far toward the
solution of certain vexed questions that are now giving Western nations no little
trouble.

Besides small specified wages the workers at the shadufs and water-wheels get
a certain percentage of the crop; those who do service on the boats share the profits
of the business, and into every form of labor this just principle seems to enter.
The possession of land passes from father to son. The tax rates (which, by the
way, have caused nearly all the trouble in Egypt for so many years) are now
decided by the tax commission under British appointment, and there is an air of
contentment and prosperity among the docile, simple-hearted children of the Valley
of the Nile that does not create wrinkles on their glossy black skin.

The Ruins of Tliebes.

For centuries these monuments of human skill and pride were swallow^ed in
the sand of the desert, but during these latter 3'ears they have one by one been
unearthed, and to-day we can look upon their magnificent ruins and imagine
w'hat they were.

After a long dusty donkey ride I climbed the Libyan hills, which here trend
away and leave a beautiful amphitheatre, girdled with peaked ramparts of yellow
cliflf and smiling with golden harvest fields of ripening grain in the face of the

W
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5h

1293)

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burning sun, and there about me the greatness of old Thebes stood partly
revealed.

There below us on the mountain's side in the terraced temple of Deyr-el-
bakri, which Hashop, first of the great queens of history, built as the vestibule
of her tomb. Lower down, on the sandy carpet of the level plain, is the grand

KARNAK IN RUINS.

colonnade which tells us what a structure the Rameseum, or " Tomb of Ozyman-

dias," must have been.

Statue of Rameses the Great.

Near b}^ are the battered blocks of what was once the most gigantic figure

ever carved out of a single granite rock, the statue of Ramejes the Great,

"Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown
And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command.
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read

Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things.
The hand that mocked them, and the heart that fed.

And on the pedestal these words appear :
' My name is Ozymandias, king of kings,

Ivook on my works, ye mighty, and despair.' "

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.
The Vocal Memnon.

295

Out in the grain fields, not far from the Nile in lonely majesty and turning
their solemn gaze toward the east, sit side by side those twin colossi one of

STATUE OF RAMESES.

■whom by a strange confusion with the son of Tithonus and Eos, the valiant
ally of the Trojans, has become famous forever as the "Vocal Memnon." For,
according to tradition and the ancient poets, as the rays of the rising sun smote

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upon the stone a sweet sound, as of a human voice, came forth, and pilgrims came
from afar to Egypt to hear Memnon softly chant his orisen to his mother the
rosy-fingered Morn:

" Beneath the Libyan hills
Where spreading Nile parts hundred-gated Thebes."

The whole statue is covered with the names of the pilgrims, from Sabina, the
consort of the Emperor Hadrian, to one Gemellos, "who came here with his
well-beloved wife, Rufilla, and his children. ' '

ISI,AND OF FHit,J^.

This vocal statue of Memnon is composed of two parts. The lower and older
consists of a single block of sandstone conglomerate; the upper part was broken
off by an earthquake in the year 27 B. C, and was not restored until the reign
of Septimius Severus, a number of years afterward.

INTKRIOR OF TKMPtE EDFOU, NIt,E.

(297)

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Tombs of the Kings.

In the steep hollows of the hills, a mile or so awaj', are those marvelous
" tombs of the kings," discovered by Belzoni, which are hewn out of the living

fe^

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,^, 1^'

OBEI.ISK AT I,UXOR.

rock mountains. These tombs consist of long inclined plains, with a number of
chambers receding into the mountain, sometimes to a distance of 500 feet.

Here lay the mummied bodies of Seti I. and a number of the Rameses, who
exerted such mighty influence on the history of Egypt, and other rulers, whose
dried, pinched faces may be seen in the Gizeh Museum, in Cairo.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 299

Away yonder across the Nile (for ancient Thebes extended along both sides
of the river) we can see the ruins of the Temple of Luxor, in the midst of which
stands forth the obelisk of Rameses II., its fellow being in the Place dela Concorde,
Paris.

From the Temple of Euxor there was an avenue of about 6500 feet long and
eighty feet wide, on each side of which was arranged a row of sphinxes leading
to the superb Temple or Temples of Karnak, now a wilderness of broken walls
and obelisks, fallen columns, mutilated statues, with here and there a noble
propylon, a stately column, or a wonderful wall painting, which tells, like the
sculptured epic of Pentaour, the poet, how the king smote his enemies and drove
them before his chariot.

The Temples of Karnak,

The ruins of Karnak are a priceless library, upon whose carved pages we
children of these last j^ears can read of the ancient raajest}^ of the house of
Ameu-Ra.

Under the brilliant Egyptian moon and at the hour when the shadows were
lengthening and the western sky was crimsoned by the setting sun, I quietly
studied these eleven shattered Temples of Karnak. Passing through the second
and greater pylon, we enter the famous "Hall of Columns." The twelve
columns forming the double row in the middle are sixt}^ feet high, and the other
columns, 122 in number, are about forty feet high. The court is 275 feet deep
and 338 feet wide and covers an area of 9755 yards.

The columns that support the roof of this hypostyle hall are adorned by
calyx capitals of gigantic proportions, and upon them are sculptured a record of
the names and deeds of the princes of the times and the customs and superstitions
of the people.

"It is impossible," says Eepsius, "to describe the impression experienced
by every one who enters this forest of columns for the first time and passes from
row to row, amidst the lofty figures of gods and kings, projecting, some in full
relief, some in half relief, from the columns on which the}^ are represented."

The Hall of Columns.

Some of the columns are prostrate, others lean as though on the verge of
falling, and architrave and roof slabs seem on the point of tumbling, but this
ruinous condition of everything adds a picturesque charm to the general impres-
sion. The outside of both the north and south walls of the Hall of Columns are
ornamented with scenes of the great warriors moving against the peoples who
lived to the northeast of Syria and in Mesopotamia.

The inscriptions found at Karnak show that from about B. C. 2433 until the
time of Alexander IV. , B. C. 312, the religious centre of Upper Egypt was Thebes,

C300)

INTERIOR OF TEVIPLE OF KARNAK.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 3or

and that the most powerful of the kings of Egypt who reigned during this period
spared neither pains nor expense in building, adding to and beautifying the
temples of this place of power.

While there is a wealth of monuments heaped together at Thebes and Mem-
phis that cannot be equaled, yet at Edfou is perhaps the most perfect single
temple in all Egypt, looking as though its priests still offered sacrifice to Horus,
as they did in the days of Ptolemy Philopator. Except the cornice, the immense
pylon is entire, and the building itself is as perfect nearly as when the architects
left it — thousands of years ago.

Two hundred and forty steps of a square staircase lead up to the summit of
each of its twin towers; the walls of the temple are covered not with epics of
battle, as at Karnak, but with the rites of religion, geographical lists, astronomical
tables, inventories of temples and their lands, their priests and precentors, and
here we find that the chisel, rather than the pen, has handed down to coming
ages an Egyptian encyclopedia.

The Island of Philie.

Most tourists return toward Cairo after seeing the wonders of Thebes, but
having chartered our launch for nearly three weeks, we continued to the extreme
southern limit of Egypt, a little below the first cataract of the Nile.

At Assuan exiled Juvenal avenged himself in remorseless satire. Here we
visited the quarries whence came the material of all the statues, obelisks, shrines
and facings of tombs, temples and pyramids at Thebes, Memphis and Heliopolis,
and here, after riding past old Kufic tombstones and ruined mosques scattered over
miles of yellow desert, we meet the river again, and see before us the pylon
of the Temple of Isis and the imposing columns of " Pharaoh's Bed " rising out
of the dark green palm grov^es of the Island of Philce.

As we walked through and around this Nile-girt island we recalled that to
millions for many centuries it was a holy place, whither devout pilgrimages were
made to pay homage to the beloved Osiris. We turn from these scenes, where
fifty centuries strew their records at our feet, astonished at the revelations of the
most ancient, and in some respects, the most wonderful civilization of the world.

Explorations of Professor Petrie and '• Sayings of Christ."

While visiting the excavated cities on the Nile, it was my pleasure to see
Professor Flinders Petrie, the noted Egyptologist, at work in the rubbish of one
of his excavations; and it was at this time that the Professor brought to light an
important tablet, the first which has been found giving a description of the wars
between the Pharaohs and the ancient Jews. More recently this gentleman,
together with Drs. Grenfell and Hunt, and others, have made noted discoveries,

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all of which throw light upon the customs and habits of the ancient Egyptians,
and some of them confirm Bible histor}'. While at work on the banks of the Nile
about fifty miles south of Cairo, Professor Petrie found a cluster of tombs, dating

HAI.I, OF COI.UMNS, KARNAK.

over five thousand years ago. The peculiarity of these tombs is that they do not
contain any of the mummies which are usually found in Egyptian tombs; but
instead boxes containing only bones, wrapped carefully in cloth. These tombs

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304

AROUND THE WORLD.

belong to the fifth dynasty of Egyptian kings; and here are found the bones of
Nenkheftka, a prince and royal priest, and those of his wife Nefersen and their
son; and as there are statues found in these tombs, it is thus known that at a
period earlier than that assigned Abraham, sculpture was a well-known art. While
exploring under the auspices of the Egyptian Exploration Fund, Bernard P.
Grenfell, M. A., and Arthur S. Hunt, M. A., discovered on the site of the ancient
African city, Oxyrhynchus, about one hundred and twenty miles south of Cairo, a
precious leaf containing the " Sayings of Christ." The date of these " sayings "
is supposed to be about A. D. 200. The page is written on both sides, and is
evidently torn from a book, as there is a folio number on it; it contains forty-three
lines, each line consisting of about four words; and of the eight sayings, two
cannot be deciphered at all. Three of the remaining six ' ' sayings ' ' are similar
to passages found in the Gospels of Matthew and Luke; and the remaining read
thus: " Jesus saith, I stood in the midst of the world, and in the flesh was I
seen of them, and I found all men drunken, and none found I athirst among
them; and my soul grieveth over the sons of men because they are blind in their
heart;" " Jesus saith. Except ye fast to the world, ^-e shall in no wise find the
kingdom of God, and except 3'e keep the Sabbath ye shall not see the Father;"
" Jesus saith, Wherever there are .... and there is one .... alone,
I am with him. Raise the stone, and there thou shalt find me. Cleave the wood,
and there am I." As this page is apparentl}^ a part of a volume, other parts may
be found which will, doubtless, add interest and importance to the discovery of
this fragment. We hail with joy every stroke of the excavator's pickaxe in Bible
lands; for as light falls upon the buried memorials of the past, the pages of both
secular and sacred history will be illumined.

CHAPTER XV.
THE PYRAMIDS OF EGYPT AND THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS.

HEORISTS have discovered, or think they have dis-
covered, many wonderful properties about the Pyramids,
but we should not lose sight of the main fact that they
are merely vast heaps of stone, exquisitely built indeed,
that mark the graves of monarchs who wished to keep
their mummied bodies inviolate for all time.

The Egyptians built their houses for the living
of perishable brick; they built their houses for the
dead of immortal granite. There was a reason for this,
founded upon their theory of human life and death.

They regarded man as composed of several entities, each having its separate
life and functions. First, was the body; then the ka, or double, which was an
ethereal duplicate, feature for feature, of the corporeal form; then was the soul,
which was popularly represented as a human-headed bird, and after the soul came
the " luminous," a spark from the divine fire.

By process of embalmment they could suspend for ages the decomposition of
the body, and by means of prayer and offerings the other component parts were
saved from the second death, thus causing prolongation of existence.

Egyptian Psychology.

The " double " never left the body, but the soul and the *' luminous " went
forth to follow the gods, returning, now and then, to the resting place of the
body. Thus, the tomb was called the "eternal house" of the dead, compared
with which the houses of the living were but wayside inns, and, therefore, if
possible, these eternal houses were built as durable as all time.

The tomb must contain a private room for the soul, which was closed at the
time of burial, not to be opened under any circumstances. It must also
contain a wide passage or reception-room, where priests and friends made offerings
for the dead. Indeed, the tomb was looked upon as a permanent dwelling, and it
was built to promote the well-being and insure the preservation of the dead.

The construction of the Pyramids and other imposing tombs illustrate this
idea, and the success with w^hich these ancient Egyptians preserved the mortal
remains of their royal dead is seen in the mummies that retain their facial
expressions after these thousands of years.
20 (305)

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WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

307

The Pyramid of Lights.

The great Pyramid of Cheops, at Gizeh, the most prodigious of all human
constructions, covers thirteen acres at the base and weighs about seven million
tons. Originally it was four hundred and eighty feet high, and it is estimated that
the materials that were used for its construction would build over twenty thousand
eight-roomed cottages and house a population of one hundred and fifty thousand.

Like most of its fel-
lows, it stands exactly
square to the four points
of the compass. The great
limestone blocks, some of
them five feet broad and
high and thirty feet long,
were brought from distant
quarries, and propelled,
doubtless, on rollers from
the river along a well-laid
causeway to their present
site. Mechanical appli-
ances, as well as the art
of cutting and polishing
the hardest stone, were
familiar to these Egyptians
of five thousand j^ears
ago.

Its Colossal Dimensions.

Twenty years, Herodo-
tus tells us, the great
Pyramid was building, L
and, when it was com-
pleted, instead of present-
ing the rough series of steps it does now the whole edifice was cased with shining
red syenite, brought from the first cataract, five hundred miles away, which
caused it to glisten so brightly that it was known as the " Pyramid of Lights."
Until the Arab conquest it preserved this stone casing, so wonderfully joined as
to appear like one block from base to summit.

In the inside everything was arranged so as to hide the exact place of the
sarcophagus and thus bafile all would-be spoilers of the royal tomb. It was

RAMESES II.

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necessary first to discover the entrance under the casing, which masked it. This
was found to be nearly in the middle of the north face, at the level of the
eighteenth course, about forty-five feet from the ground.

'M

m

PYRAMID OF CHEOPS.

When at last the casing was torn off and the block of stone was displaced
which covered the entrance, an inclined passage 41.2 inches wide and 47.6

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

309

inches high was revealed, the lower part of which was cut in the stone. This
descended for three hundred and seventeen feet, passed through an unfinished
chamber and ended sixty feet further in a blind passage.

The Interior and Contents.

Although the spoilers were disappointed here, by careful examination in the
roof, sixty-two feet distant from the door, a block of granite was found which shut
from view another passage.
Having passed this obstacle,
they came to an ascending
passage which divides into two
branches — one running into a
limestone chamber in the
centre of the Pyramid; the
other, continuing upward, be-
comes a gallery one hundred
and forty-eight feet long and
twenty-eight feet high, built of
Mokattam stone, so polished
and finely wrought that we are
told it was difficult to put a
needle or even a hair into the
joints.

Another difficulty must
now be surmounted. The final
passage leading to the chamber
of the sarcophagus was closed
by a slab of granite, and fur-
ther on was a small vestibule
divided in equal spaces by four
partitions of granite which
must be broken. When at last
it was reached, the royal sep-
ulchre was found to be a gran-
ite chamber nineteen feet high, thirty-four feet long and seventeen feet wide.

Thus we may see how painstaking these old Egyptians were to guard the
safety of the body of the great one among them, and in this and other cases they
kept it untouched by human hands and unseen by human eyes for ages and ages.
The mummy of the founder has long since been removed, but his stone cofl&n is on
exhibition.

A NILE belle.

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Queen Nitocris.

The second pyramid oi Gizeh, built by the brother of the builder of the first
(according to Herodotus), retains some of its original casing at the top, and round
the third, the red pyramid of Menkara, where it is supposed once lay the body of

S5HINX.

the beautiful Queen Nitocris, a Loreley legend has grown up; the queen's blushing
face caused her to be confounded with the rosy-cheeked Rhodopis, the Greek
favorite of King Amasis, and superstition imagines that a fair but treacherous
woman haunts the Red pyramid and bewitches travelers:

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

3^1

"Fair Rhodope, as story tells,
The bright unearthly nymph who dwells
'Mid sunless gold and jewels hid,
The Lady of the Pyramid !"

A short walk from the great Pyramid brings us face to face with a statue, the
most ancient known, that is more of a mystery, if not more of a wonder, than the
royal tomb — the Great Sphinx of Gizeh.

An Old Monument.

We have historic
proof that it was already
in existence in the time
of the builder of the
great Pyramid, but its
real age is unknown. It
is hewn in the living
rock; its battered bod}-
presents but the general
form of the lion, the
paws, and the breast,
restored by the Ptole-
mies and the Caesars,
retain but a part of the
stone facing with which
they were originally
clothed. The lower
part of the head-dress
has fallen and the neck
is badl}' broken ; the
nose and the beard have
been cut away and the
red hue which enliv-
ened the features is
almost wholly gone.

But notwithstand
ing the ravages of time

and fanatics, it has an expression of strength and greatness. The eyes gaze out
upon the waste of desert sand with intense thoughtfulness, the mouth wears a
smile, and the whole countenance possesses power and repose.

The body is about one hundred and fifty feet long, the head is thirty feet

DAME SOUDAI^L.

312

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CtEOPATRA AT UENUEKAH

long, the face is lour-
teen feet wide, and
from the top of the
head to the base of the
monument the dis-
tance is about seventy-
feet. The condition
in which it now ap-
pears is due to the
barbarous destruction
of its features by the
Mohammedan rulers
of Egypt, some of
whom caused it to be
used for a target.

We turn from these
masterpieces of
ancient skill with the
unanswered and un-
answerable question in
our mind: How long
did it take to arrive at
this degree of maturity
and perfection ?

The
Ancient Egyptians.

During the three
weeks I have been
studying the sculp-
tures and monuments
of Upper and Lower
Egypt, the query,
whence came the orig-
inal Egyptians, has
been of increasing in-
terest. There can be
but little doubt that
the}' belonged to the
Caucasian race; that

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

313

their first home was Asia, and that they made their way across Mesopotamia,
Arabia and the Isthmus of Suez into Egypt.

Historians do not fix for us a period when these new-comers from the East
came west of the Red Sea, but the strongest evidence points to the remote age of
B. C. 5000.

From carvings and inscriptions excavated recently we have proof that these
people from the East found in Egypt a race following agricultural pursuits,
navigating the Nile with their rude crafts, dressing scantily and having dark skin.

CARVING AT SAKKARAL.

This aboriginal race called the country Kamt, which means "black," and
the name may have originated either from the complexion of the people or, more
probably, from the dark, rich color of the cultivated land of Egypt.

Bible Lore and Picture Record.

The Bible gives the name of " Ham " to this country. The children of Ham
are said to be Cush, Mizraim, Put and Canaan, and we find that the second of
these, Mizraim, is the name given to Egypt by the Hebrews.

The descendants of Cush are represented on the monuments by the inhabi-
tants of Nubia and the negro tribes which live to the south of that country. The
children of Put, the third son of Ham, appear to have dwelt on both sides of the
Red Sea, to the south of Egypt, carrying on a large trade with the Egyptians as

314

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far back as 2500 B. C, and the descendants of Mizraim are supposed to have been
related to the aboriginal inhabitants of Phoenicia, called in the Bible Canaanites.
Without a single exception every representation of the ancient Egyptian
depicts him as having a slender form, rather broad shoulders, long hands and feet,
sinewy legs and arms, high forehead, square chin, short and rounded nose, jaws
slightly protruding and hair fine and smooth.

The skulls and bones of mummies which anthropologists have examined and
measured quite recently, support and confirm the pictures on the tombs, over-
throwing utterly the theory that
the Egyptian is, from what we
understand by the expression, of
negro origin.

Ancient and flodern Type.

Several times I have noticed
that the nose of one of the later
Egyptians, as seen in the carv-
ings, is slightly aquiline; but this
is explained by the intermarriage
of the Egyptians with people of
Semitic origin.

I have been greatly impressed
with the fact that the Egyptian
of to-da}- is an exact reproduction
of his ancestors who lived fifty
centuries ago. Yesterday I was
accompanied during the day's
ramble amidst the ruins of an
ancient temple by a pure Egyp-
tian, and in his dress, attitudes,
form and face he was the living

WATER CARRIER, CAIRO.

picture of a figure that was
repeated over and over again on
the crumbling walls which were

decorated twenty centuries before the Christian era.

The invasions of the Babylonians, Ethiopians, Assyrians, Persians, Greeks,

Romans, Arabs and Turks seem to have had no permanent effect either on their

physical or mental characteristics, and the type of the Egyptian fellah which we

meet to-day is just what it was in the earliest dynasties.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.
The Feliahin.

315

These Feliahin compose four-fifths of the entire population of Eg3'pt, and are
chiefly employed in agricultural pursuits — indeed, the whole of the cultivation of
Egypt is practically in their hands. The Egyptians represented on the earliest
monuments to which we can assign a date were already highly civilized and
possessed an alphabetic system
of writing, a grammar, a govern-
ment and a religion. Perhaps
there are no people in the world
whose wonderful history is so
accurately traceable in their laws,
customs, costumes and religion
as the Egyptians, and much of
this pictorial record on stone,
after having been buried from
the eye of man for thousands of
3'ears, is an unsealed volume
to the children of the closing
years of the nineteenth century
of the Christian era.

Other Nationalities.

Besides the Feliahin, of whom
we have spoken, about one-fifth
of the population of Egypt is
composed of Copts, Bedouins,
Jews, Turks, Negroes, Nubians,
AbyvSsinians, Armenians and
Europeans, all the inhabitants
of the land not exceeding much
more than seven millions. It
is estimated that there arc
about three hundred and fifty
thousand Copts in Egypt to-day.

They are descendants from the ancient Egyptians and live mostly in the cities of
Upper Egypt, are engaged in the different trades, and physically they are of a
finer type than the Feliahin. As is well known, they are famous in ecclesias-
tical history for having embraced with remarkable zeal and rapidity the doctrines
of Christianity as preached, it is supposed, by St. Mark at Alexandria, and before
the close of the third century many thousands of these Copts had cast away the

YOUNG NEGRKSS IN SOUDAN.

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weird religion of their fathers and embraced with enthusiasm the gospel of the
Nazarene. Because they held persistently to the doctrine that Christ had but one
composite nature and denied that He was both human and divine, they were called
Monophysites, but to-day, like many other so-called Christians, they are too much
occupied in watching the main chance to trouble themselves on theological ques-
tions. Generally speak-
ing, the knowledge of the
Coptic language is extinct,
and the Arabic seems to
be spoken by them en-
tirely.

The Bedouins.

The Bedawins (or Bed-
ouins) comprise the diff-
erent Arabic-speaking and
Mohammedan tribes who
live in the deserts along
the river Nile, and
although it is impossible
tor me to secure correct
statistics on the subject,
it is supposed that they
number perhaps two hun-
dred and fifty thousand.
During my trip of six
hundred miles up the Nile,
I rode for miles over a
barren desert, and a sight
of these independent men,
living far away from city or village, confirmed the opinion already formed that
they are possessed of brave and heroic characteristics. But I have no special
desire to meet them after dark, as I hinted to my guide. The Nubians (from
"nub," meaning "gold,") live nearly altogether in Nubia, extreme Upper
Egypt, v*^hich was a gold-producing country, and they speak a language that is
allied to some of the North African tongues. The negroes, forming a large part
of the non-native population of Egypt, are held practically as slaves by the
natives, and the Turks, although comparatively few in number, hold many civil
and military appointments and possess keen business instincts. The European

Type of the; negress.

(31?)

3i8

AROUND THE WORIvD

population in Egypt consists of Greeks, about sixty-five thousand ; Italians, thirty
thousand; French, fourteen thousand; English, nine thousand, and Germans,
Austrians and Russians, perhaps ten thousand.

Greek Merchants.

In Alexandria the most prosperous business men are the Greek merchants,
and although it is said that these citizens contribute most largely to the crime of
the country, no one can deny that their commercial genius has made Alexandria

the great city that it is.
Yes, it is "great," as
measured by the narrow
tape-line of modern ma-
terialistic greatness, but
its ancient pomp, power
and prowess have van-
ished forever. The
shades of Alexander the
Great! Where is the
city that was founded by
the world's might}^ con-
queror in 332 B. C. ?
Where is the Serapeum,
the wonderful museum,
the library with its mil-
lion volumes and the
magnificent palaces and
temples ? Where are the
twin obelisks which Cle-
opatra stole from the
Temple of the Sun at
Heliopolis ? One stands
in the fog of London, the
other in the flash of
Central Park, New York.
British guns and Euro-
pean commerce have
blotted out all that told
of the glory of the great
Alexandria, by Alex-
ni;gro (SOUDANESE). audcr the Great, and the

(310/

320

AROUND THE WORLD.

deeds of the Ptolemies, the heroic past of Antony's " Royal Egypt," of Hypatia
and C3'ril, are naught but the fading memories of bygone history, that are nearly
hushed and crushed by the din, dust and dirt of our boasted modern progress.

Soudan Expedition.

Fifteen years ago England abandoned the Soudan, after the unfortunate death
of General Gordon; and since that time it has been controlled by the Khalifa, the

Mohammedan fanatic, who
succeeded the Mahdi. During
these years England has not
been idle. There has been a
reorganization of the English
government in Egypt; the
Egyptian army has been
drilled, newly equipped and
officered by Englishmen; and
since the spring of 1896 pro-
gressive means have been
adopted to reclaim this blighted
region. Fighting on the Nile
entails many dangers. To
avoid the peril of having com-
munications cut off and the
advanced post of the army
surrounded by the enemy,
every position as it is occupied
is strongly fortified and con-
nected by railroad and tele-
graph, so that news can be
quickly received and troops
can be readily moved to the
field of action. After hard
fighting, Abu Haraid, only
one hundred and thirty miles
from the equator, was cap-
tured; and this is regarded
as an important event in the Anglo-Egyptian expediton. As the oppression of the
Khalifa became unendurable, the natives of this region hailed with joy the
victory of the Egyptian and British army; and now that the flotilla of steamers
built for the navigation of the upper Nile is doing effective service it is

NUBIAN ON THE NII,E.

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322

AROUND THE WORLD.

hoped that the expedition will press its way into the heart of the Soudan, and

bring liberty and hope to an enslaved and despairing people.

All Europe, as well as Egypt, is greatly excited over the war in the Soudan,

and thousands of

Egyptian and hun-
dreds of English sol-
diers crowd the Nile
boats, hurrying on to
the seat of war. I
have arrived at the
extreme southernmost
point to which tourists
are allowed to go by
the command of the
Eg3'ptian government,
and as I write three
boats, filled with na-
tive infantry, two
packed with boys of
the "Union Jack"
and one appropriated
b}' the camel corps,
are passing up the
Nile.

To make clear the
present status of af-
fairs in this country
allow me to refer to
certain historical mat-
ters.

I have given an
interview I held with
Arabi Pasha, in Cey-
lon, which gave an
account of the up-
rising of the fellahin

FEMME ABARAMBOU DE MAMBETOU (EQUATEUR). , ....

under Arabi, m 1882,
and of their defeat by British arms. In this same year came the news from
Khartoum from the Governor-General of the Soudan that his troops sent against
the Mahdi had been entirely destroyed.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN

The Mahdi's Career.

323

This " Mahdi," or Mohammed Ahmed, is the son of a carpenter, and his rise
to power is, perhaps, the most remarkable event in the history of the Soudan. He
was a rehgious fanatic, and while 3^et a young man he, surrounded by a number
of devoted disciples, went to live on the Island of Abba, in the White Nile, and,
having hollowed out a cave in the mud-bank, lived in comparative seclusion,

NILE WATER CARRIERS.

fasting and praying for days at a time. His renown soon spread throughout the
whole country and he was recognized as the Mahdi el Muntazer, the expected
guide, the messenger of God.

Now the Mahdi came forth, and under his leadership the flame of active
rebellion was kindled and burned with intensity throughout all of the Soudan at
the time of English conquest of Egypt. In November, 1883, the Mahdi defeated
Colonel Hicks, who had been appointed chief of staff in the Soudan, and now he

324

AROUND THE WORLD.

held the country from the Nile to the Red Sea and far on toward the Great Lakes.
Victory followed his arms until the regular English arm}' partly checked his course.

SOUDANESE (NEGRESS).

General Gordon's Fate.

The sad story of Gordon is doubtless familiar to my readers. In April,
1884, he telegraphed to England: " I shall hold out here as long as I can, and if

WITH HYES WIDIv OPEN.

325

I can suppress the rebellion I shall do so. If I cannot, I shall retire to the
equator and leave you the indelible disgrace of abandoning this garrison.'' The

EGYPTIAN DANCK GIRL.

British government criminally neglected Gordon's pleas for aid, and after months
of untold torture of mind he sent another telegram in answer to one ordering him

326

AROUND THE WORIvD

to retreat: "Retreat impossible. You ask me to state cause and intention of
sta3-ing at Khartoum. I stay because the Arabs have shut us up and will not let
us out." x\fter a long delay in lyondon and in Cairo an expedition was started

TYPICAIv ORIENTAI, DRAGOMAN.

for the rescue of the most heroic Englishman of the century. Although in the
early spring he had sent message after message begging for reinforcements, which
were unheeded, he sent a final one in December: " I have done all in my power

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328

AROUND THE WORLD.

to hold out; the position extremely critical." The expedition reached Khartoum
forty-eight hours after poor, noble Gordon had been cut to pieces by the Mahdi
and his fellow-fanatics.

Smarting under this disastrous failure to save Gordon, the British govern-
ment, under pressure, decided upon another expedition "to lay the Suakin-

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Berber Railway," but after losing five hundred and fift}' men in a twenty-
minutes' battle with the Mahdists this enterprise was abandoned.

British Plan of Revenge.

Since this time the followers of the Mahdi, especially his right-hand man,
Osman Digna, have been giving continual trouble, and from the decisive action

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 329

taken by the English and Egyptian forces, it is supposed that with them patience
has ceased to be a virtue, and that now it is determined to clear out the trouble-
some dervishes and open up the Soudan once for ail.

It is rumored (and rumors are nearly as plentiful as flies and fleas in Egypt
just now) that there is an understanding between England and Italy, and that
the Soudan campaign is for the purpose of assisting the Italians in their sore
straits in Erythrea.

Essentialh' it is an Egyptian question that is involved. For .some time past
the dervishes have been concentrating in menacing numbers at Dongola, and there
has been some reason to fear that an attack upon the Egyptian frontier would be
made. The defeat of the Italians at Adowa tmdoubtedly made the situation more
critical. It exposed Kassala to attack, and it sent a thrill of reviving fanaticism
throughout the Soudan.

Under the circumstances Lord Wolsele}' thought that military operations

were necessary, and the Egyptian war office was obliged to act accordingh-. It

cannot be denied that the success of the dervishes had greatl}- encouraged them,

and as the inhabitants of this part of Africa make no definite distinction between

European nationalities, this victory' means to them a triumph of the black.skins

over the whiteskins, which, it is feared, ma}' lead them to be more pugnacious

and progressive than ever, involving the interests of several European powers in

the country.

Egypt and the Dervishes.

During the month that I have been in Egypt I have on several occasions seen
representatives of these dervishes, and I can easily imagine that the descriptions
that come to us of their recklessness in times of war are not at all exaggerated.
They are said to be absolutel}- fearless of death, and, inspired by a deathless love
for their religion, which they think is endangered b}- the presence of Europeans in
Africa, their fanaticism knows no bounds.

Egypt is, and has always been, a land of mystery, and all those w^ho live any
time in its atmosphere— whether native or alien — partake of this spirit. After all
that has been said, the English as well as the Egyptians are acting most myste-
riously in this campaign. Two reasons are given out publicly for this rush of
troops up the Nile: first, for the protection of the frontier of Egypt, and, second,
for the indirect benefit of Italy by attracting the forces of the dervishes away
from her defeated army. If the former is true, why should not the Egyptian and
Engli.sh .soldiers stop here at Assouan, the frontier town of Egypt, and build their
fortifications at this place of entrance instead of taking the offensive and pushing
on toward Doneola ? If the second reason has foundation, why go toward
Dongola, which is six hundred miles from Ka.ssala, where the Italian army is in
distress ? The facts justify a different conclusion.

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AROUND THE WORLD

The " affairs " in Europe necessitate England having an active policy in this
country, which has been under her protectorate for more than ten years. She
would prove to France, Russia and other powers that the time for her to evacuate
Eg}-pt is not at hand, and that her process of trying to whiten the black hearts,
if not the black skins, of these children of the desert must be continued by the
flash of the sword and the crack of the rifle ! This may exterminate the der-

scene; in the valley of The ntle.

vishes, but it will not terminate the restless rumbling that is rolling through the
heart of the Dark Continent.

From Egypt to Syria.

After a month's study of the wonders of ancient and modern Eg>'pt, most
regretfully we took leave of the Shepheard's, the most comfortable and best
equipped hotel, not only in Cairo, but in the East, and within a few hours we

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

33 r

were passing through the fertile fields of Goshen on onr way toward the land of
the Sultan. On these plains, made historic by biblical events and as the battle-
field of contending armies in olden times, the frightened forces of Arabi Pasha
gathered after the bombardment and fall of Alexandria, and it was here that the
last stroke was given to his cause by English arms.

Before taking ship at Port Said we spent a short while at Ismailia, located
exactly midway on the Suez Canal, between the Mediterranean and Red seas, at

SCENE BETWEEN JAFFA AND JERUSALEM.

the Bitter Lakes, through which the canal runs. In this pretty little city, where
flowers and fruit trees seem to be in great abundance, the representatives of the
civilized nations of the world met on the occasion of the inauguration ceremony
at the time of the completion of De Eessep's grand canal, and here it was that
certain international friendships were created that gave a new impulse to commerce
between Europe and the East. At Port Said, in a sandy plain, and which receives
its importance alone from the fact that it is connected with the trans-shipment of
vessels to and from the Red Sea by way of Suez, we embarked for Jaffa, Palestine.

332 AROUND THE WORLD

The City of Jaffa.

In the early morning, after a rough night on the Mediterranean, we caught
our first gHmpse of the mountains of Judea; then the yellow shore came in view,
and in the distance we could see the red-tiled houses of Jaffa rising in terraces on
the slope of a beautiful hill.

This city on the sea — one of the oldest cities in the world — is where Hiram,
King of Tyre, undertook to send to Solomon wood from Lebanon for the building
of the Temple; here it was, according to ancient myth, that Andromeda, the
daughter of Cepheusand Joppa, is said to have been chained to the rocks in order
that she might be destroyed by a huge sea monster, but was released by Perseus,
and it was from this port that Jonah embarked just before his remarkable experi-
ence with the big fish. This latter reference prompts us to remark that Jonah, not
Samson, was the strongest man that ever lived, for even a whale could not hold
him down.

The present city is uninteresting except for a few biblical events that are
associated with it. We visit the reputed home of Simon, the tanner, and have
pointed out to us the place on the flat roof where the Apostle Peter had the vision
that is recorded in Acts, which put a new interpretation on the gospel that he
preached, and a short walk away brings us to the place where the same great
apostle is said to have raised Tabitha and given her back to her distressed friends.

On the Road to Jerusalem.

The forty miles from Jaffa to Jerusalem can be made in a short time in a train
of cars, pulled by a puffing, snorting steam engine. But as this mode of journey
seemed to violate a deep-seated sentiment, and would not afford an opportunity to
study the places of interest en route, we secured a carriage with the privilege of
taking all day for the trip. For miles out of Jaffa we drive through orange,
lemon, pomegranate and apricot gardens, and on every hand there are evidences
of the greatest fertility.

About thirty years ago a German colony' secured a thousand acres from the
Sultan, and large fortunes have been made by these thrifty men and women in
horticulture. I am told that ^80,000 worth of oranges and shiploads of other
fruit annually are exported by the colony and what was a barren plain has been
converted into gardens of the richest beauty.

The Rothschilds and other wealthy Hebrews have established and supported
a Jewish agricultural school near by, but this has not been a success, for these
sons of Abraham are so intuitively biased toward commercial life that when a few
pounds have been accumulated at the school, they bid good-bye to the hoe and
plow and go forth as traders.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

333

Approaching the Holy City.

In less than two hours from Ramleh we passed into the beautiful Valley of
Ajalon, where in Joshua (x. 12) we have it recorded that Joshua commanded the
moon to stand still. Through this valley and over the adjacent hills I walked ten
miles, and having as my companion an enthusiastic botanist and a good Syrian
scholar, this walk was much more enjoyable than the carriage drive. Within a
space of not more than three hundred yards I gathered twenty-two kinds
of flowers. The fields and hill slopes looked as if they were covered by many
colored carpets; the single-handed plow, used from time immemorial, w^as seen
moving through the rich soil, drawn by an ox and an ass, and driven by the
bearded Syrian; peeps were made into wells that were like those used by Father
Jacob; Latron, the reputed home of the penitent thief, was passed (which is now
said to be full of thieves, none of whom are penitent); the meadow is reached
where some insist that David let fly the stone from his sling that buried itself in
the forehead of the great giant; and having resumed our carriage we soon came
to Kuloniah, thought to be the Emmaus of Luke xxiv. 13, where Christ appeared
on the day of His resurrection. Just as the crimson light from the setting sun lit
the western sky over the Judean hills, casting a rosy glow on meadow and vale,
we passed through the gate into the city of the Great King,

CHAPTER XVI.
PILGRIMS IN PALESTINE.

T is estimated that fifteen thousand visitors land upon the shores of
Palestine annually, the large majority of whom come on religious
pilgrimages. The Holy Sepulchre is visited ever^^ j^ear by
nearly twelve thousand "pilgrims" — six thousand of these
are Russian peasants, four thousand are Greeks from the various
countries that fringe the Levant, or Armenians; nearly a thou-
sand are French and Latin, about two hundred are Copts from Upper Egypt,
and the rest are native Christian!?.

The Russian Visitors.

I have been greatly impressed b}- the quiet, earnest, serious manner of the
Russian peasants, men and women, as they come in from the great Russian
convent and barrack that dominate the city on the north, and with bared head and
taper in hand make the round of the sacred places; or as they trudge along the
road from Jerusalem to Jericho, with great bundles on their backs, bound for the
Jordan River. Most of these are past middle age; all are carrying out at last the
intention of a lifetime, over the consummation of which they have long brooded
and prayed and many of them have walked on foot one or even two thousand miles
from their native village in the interior of Russia before the\' arrive at the port of
embarkation on the shores of the Black Sea, and have voluntarih' undergone much
inevitable suffering and hardship on the way. Each peasant pays for his own
passage and all expenses of the long journey out of the earnings carefully stored
,up from year to year with this intent, and the Russian government requires, before
granting permission to any of them to leave Russia at all, a specific pledge and
contract that they will return, and demands also that each one shall deposit in the
hands of the authorities enough to defra}- his return fare. Besides this each has
to contribute his toll and fee to the local fund of the Eastern Church, and it is this
money that furnishes the means for the man}^ renovations of older buildings and
for the erection of new chapels and shrines that are springing up here and there
and everywhere in Southern Syria under the aegis of the Eastern Church.

(334)

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French Catholics.

Most of the pilgrims who belong to the Latin communion are French. There
exists in France a benevolent society for helping poor French Catholics to make
this pilgrimage, and this fund allows about one thousand of these pilgrims to visit
the Holy Sepulchre every year. There are not so many Moslem pilgrims, and the
Jews are coming in large numbers, not as travelers, but as colonists. The
number of tourists who spend from two to six weeks in Palestine is increasing

%.

THE ANCIENT GATEWAY OF SAMARCAND, IN TURKESTAN.

everj' year, but I have been unable to secure reliable statistics on this point.
Three-quarters of these attempt no more than a sight of Jerusalem and its
environs, perhaps go to Bethlehem, five miles to the south, and to the Jordan,
eighteen miles to the east, and then sail from Beirut, after having run up to
Damascus. These do not, apparently, take any real or abiding interest in the
associations of the land, and seem not desirous of enlarging or giving reality to

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 337

the impressions they had derived by study at home. It is quite impossible to take
but a most superficial glance of the country under a month's time, but during this
time the visitor, by a well-conceived and well- executed plan, can proceed from the
extreme south to the extreme north (about one hundred and twenty-seven miles),
and from the Mediterranean to the Jordan, studying somewhat carefully the
localities associated with the Old and New Testament.

Doing Jerusalem.

Many who attempt " to do " Jerusalem on schedule time and dash from one
place of interest to another seem not to realize that the modern city is but the
topmost stratum of several former cities; that beneath its outward aspect lie
entombed the remnants of those who have played their part in what every one
must acknowledge to have been the most remarkable drama of history,
and where the ruins of the work of at least three distinct Jewish periods, as
well as those of the Herodian, the Roman, the Byzantine, the Crusader and the
Moslem lie piled together. In our study of this wonderful cit}', if we do not go
beneath the dust of its present streets and alleys, we are naught but slaves to a
bald external materialism. The excavator's pickaxe is yet to unearth stones that
have tongues, beneath the spots where the knees of devout pilgrims now touch,
and a new historic revelation shall be brought to light.

The Valley of the Jordan.

Those who are interested in the " Palestine exploration fund " are addressmg
themselves earnestly to this noble work, and I am assured by the honored secretary
that the association is greatly encouraged in its work. The tourist, it matters not
how quickly he must depart after entering the Holy Land, cannot afford to miss
the wondrous ravine of the Jordan, unlike anything else on the face of the globe.
Here he passes the threefold interesting site of the prehistoric, the Jewish and the
Herodian Jericho, haunted by the martial memories of Joshua's raid, with the
vanguard of the Ben -Israel, and by those of many romantic and picturesque
episodes belonging to the schools of the prophets, by memories of the Egyptian
Cleopatra, of Herod's funeral that here wound its way, of the last journey of
Jesus, of the Essenes and early Christians and many other events of sacred and
secular history of thrilling interest.

riagnificent Landscape.

The topography of Palestine is an agreeable surprise to me. In my trip

around the world, with but one exception, I have seen no view that surpasses in

grandeur the one to be had from one of the heights in the Jordan Valley, near the

traditional spot where the prophet sweetened the bitter waters. The panorama of
22

338 AROUND THE WORLD

all Central Palestine lies outspread as a map before your gaze, and from, the deep
blue.rippleless waves of the Dead Sea, to the south, to the dazzling snow fields of
Mount Hermon, on the north, a distance of a hundred miles, the magnificent
landscape extends, dimpled b}- numberless vales and domed by many hillocks,
flanked on the east by the grand mountains of Moab and Gilead, from which
spring the heroic Nebo and Pisgah, watch-towers of the Land of Promise.

An Old Highway,

This view, so multiplied and beautiful, must have been the very prospect
which presented itself to the eye first of Abraham and then of Jacob as they came
in from Mesopotamia, and is substantially the same to-day as it was w^hen unfolded
before the eyes of Balaam and Moses. Looking toward Jerusalem , j^ou can see Mount
Olivet, and Vv^inding through the hill country you can trace the white road that was
pressed by the feet of the Christ and His disciples as the}- came over the road
from Jerusalem to Jericho, a part of which you have passed, and must repass
before you enter the Holy City again. Along this old highway, through your
field-glass, you can distinguish long caravans of Russian and French pilgrims
solemnly moving toward the Jordan, that flashes in the sunlight below you.

The Holy City.

It is well, before studying a great city in detail, to ascend to an elevated place
and take a bird's-eye view of the city and its surroundings as a whole. This was
done the day after our arrival in Jerusalem. From a tower two hundred feet high,
erected on the Mount of Olives, lookitig toward the west, you have the Garden of
Gethsemane and the Valley of Jehoshaphat below you; beyond spreads out the
Holy City, and behind, nestling in the hills, is the town of Bethany, while twenty
miles away is Jericho, not far from the waters of the Jordan and the Dead Sea,
which are distinctly visible. The four hills upon which Jerusalem stands were once
separated by deep valleys, which are now filled by the debris of successive destruc-
tions of the cit}\ On the southwest rises Zion, the most celebrated of these, which
is three hundred feet above the Valley of Hinnom and five hundred feet above the
Kidron. It was the old citadel of the Jebusites and "the City of David."
Mount Moriah, which was the site of the ancient temple and is now crowned by
the Mosque of Omar, is on the southeast, separated from Zion by the Tyropaeon
Valley and from Olivet by the deep gorge of the Kidron. On the northeast is
Mount Bezetha, w^hich was enclosed within the walls, after the time of Christ, by
Herod Agrippa, and Mount Akra, which is the highest point of the city, is on
the northwest. Thus it will be seen that the city slopes down from the northwest
to the northeast, and standing on the northwest angle of the wall, you are at the
highest point and see Moriah far below on the southeast, with the Tyropaeon

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

339

Valley on the west of it, running down between it and Zion to the junction of the
Kidron with the Hinnom.

The city covers an area of more than two hundred and nine acres, has a cir-
cumference of nearly two and a quarter miles, is enclosed by walls averaging about
thirty-five feet in height; around the walls are thirty-four towers, and in the walls
are eight gates, six open and two closed. The population is variously estimated

JERUSALEM MERCHANTS.

from 75,000 to 100,000, and the Jews, who have been coming in large numbers in
recent years, largely outnumber all others.

The Holy Sepulchre.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre first attracted our attention. As to the
genuine site of the holy sepulchre there has been no end of controversy, but it is
quite certain that there is no historical evidence that the question was at all settled
until the third century, when it appears from Eusebius that over the sepulchre

«t '«»"'*^«»5J(

^JU^ CENTRE OF THE EARTH, CHURCH OF THE HOI,V SEPUI.CHRE. JERUSAI^EM.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

341

had been erected a temple to Venus. In the present building there are thirty-
seven stations, at which the Roman Catholics, Greeks, Armenians and Copts hold
services. The following are some of these: Tlie stone of unction on which they
say Christ was laid and anointed v/hen taken from the cross; the spot where Mary
stood to see what would be done with the body of her son and Lord; the sepulchre
itself and the stone which closed the door; the place where Mary met the risen Lord,

ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.

supposing Him to be the gardener; a hole through the marble pavement where
the cross is said to have stood, and what may well surprise us, we are shown at
last the tomb of Melchizedec and the tomb of Adam.

The holy sepulchre stands in the centre of the rotunda. The slab is cracked
through the centre, is much worn by adoring pilgrims, and the little chapel that

342 AROUND THE WORLD

encloses it is lit by forty-three lamps, always burning. The church is the joint
property of the Greeks, the Latins (Catholics), Armenians and Copts, and each
take their turn in making processions to the holy places and worshiping at the
sacred shrines.

The Mosque of Omar.

Upon Mt. Moriah, where once stood the great temple designed by David and
built by Solomon, is now the Mosque of Omar, and tradition declares that it
covers the spot where Oman had his threshing floor, where Abraham offered up
Isaac and where David interceded for the plague-stricken people. Standing in
this magnificent building, one's thoughts rush back to the past, when psalmists
wrote and patriots sung of the temple's glory. Hither the tribes came up; here
shone forth the light of the Shekinah ; here was the centre of the religious, the
poetical and the political life of God's chosen people, and to this spot still devout
Jews in every land turn with tearful eyes and prayerful lips, longing for the
restoration of their loved land. The Christian thinks of the little Child presented
here by His mother, of the divine Youth asking and answering questions, and of
the man-God " teaching and preaching the things concerning Himself,"

The Sacred Rock.

The spacious area known as the Haram esh-Sherif, upon which the mosque
stands, is surrounded by a wall 1601 feet long on the west, 1530 on the east, 1024
on the north and 922 on the south, and is entered by eight gates on the west. In the
building there are many things to attract attention , but the greatest interest centres
upon the Sacred Rock, immediately beneath the dome, about sixty feet long and
forty-five feet wide. Numberless legends cluster about this rock, Jewish,
Christian and Moslem. Here, it is claimed, Melchizedec offered sacrifice, Abraham
brought 3'oung Isaac as an offering, the ark of the covenant stood, and through
the circular hole is said to have passed the blood of the sacrifices, which was carried
by way of the brook Kidron outside of the city. In the cave below are shown the
praying places of Abraham, Elijah, David, Solomon and Mohammed.

The next building of importance in the enclosure is the Mosque-et-Aksa,
which contains the tombs of the sons of Aaron, the praying place of Moses, and
other places of traditional interest. From the Haram a fine view can be had of
the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where devout Jews long to be buried, for to this place
will the Messiah come w^hen the prophecy of Joel is fulfilled: " I will gather all
nations and w^ill bring them down into the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and will plead
with them there for my people, whom they have scattered among the nations, and
parted my land."

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

3-1-3

The Via Dolorosa.

The Via Dolorosa is a narrow but remarkably picturesque street leading from
a point near St. Stephen's gate to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and, remem-

''1 1

THE "WAILING PLACE," IN JERUSALEM.

bering that it is sacred with the tears of many generations of pilgrims who strove
to walk in the footsteps of the agonizing Christ, we cannot step upon its rough

344 AROUND THE WORLD

pavement with indifference as we visit Pilate's Judgment Hall, the place where
the cross is said to have been put on Christ's shoulder, and the different " Stations
of the Cross ' ' until Calvary is reached. I have visited no spot in Jerusalem more
pathetic than the Jews' Wailing Place.

Jews' Wailing Place.

Every Friday afternoon the old wall of the temple, composed of enormous
blocks of marble, is lined with Hebrews of every age and station in life, who
spend hours reading their psalter and prophets, while they weep over the ruins of
the Holy City. Jerome makes an affecting allusion to the remnant of mourners
in his day who paid the Roman soldiers for the privilege of leaning against this
wall while they bemoaned their fate; and as I watched these children of ancient
Israel, holding their sacred books, their bodies waving to and fro, their lips mutter-
ing and wailing out lamentation after lamentation, while tears rolled down their
faces, I could not for a moment doubt their sincerity, and a thrill ran through me
as I recalled their past history and their present condition in the city of their
fathers.

The subterranean quarries which run under nearly the length and breadth
of the city give the probable explanation of the place where the mighty stones of
the temple were secured. As you pass through a vast succession of might}' aisles
and mammoth chambers 3'ou see the marks of chiselings left centuries ago, you
pass niches for the lamps of the quarry men, and now and then you stumble
against huge blocks partly cut from the rocks, and pillars partially shaped and left
unfinished.

In the Holy City.

The exact localities of Calvary, where the Chri.st was crucified, and the tomb
in which He lay, have greatly interested the hosts of pilgrims who have visited
Jerusalem for many centuries.

The Empress Helena, mother of Constantine, visited the Holy City in A. D.
326, with the purpose of identifying these spots, and tradition tells us that it was
by means of a dream that her desires were fulfilled. Her son erected a magnifi-
cent basilica over the place where the tomb was supposed to have been, and
although this original edifice has long since disappeared the present Church of the
Holy Sepulchre is located where the dream of the devout Empress led her to
suppose were the tomb of the Lord and the place of the crucifixion.

In this church we are surrounded by everything that human invention and
modern art could devise, but we turn away sickened at heart to think that such
folly and superstition should be associated with the most sacred events of the
world's historv.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

345

Here we are shown where the Empress sat and threw pieces of gold into the
rubbish to encourage the workmen in their search for the cross; there we are
shown a slab of limestone where, it is said, the Eord's body was anointed when
taken from the cross, and scores of other evidences of the baldest superstition are
marked and labeled in the most artificial manner.

GOLGOTHA.

It is surpassingly strange that this place was selected, if the biblical record
was consulted at all. It occupies a position, not on a solid rock, but above the
ground, in space. The chamber of the tomb is lined with marble, and has not
the least resemblance to a cave cut in the rock, and it is located inside the city
walls, as they existed in Christ's time, while all admit that the true Calvary must
have occupied a place outside of these walls.

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AROUND THE WORLD

riajor Conder's Discovery.

We are indebted to Major Conder, who labored in connection with the Palestine
Exploration F\ind, for ably pointing out in 1878 that in all probability the place
where the crucifixion took place is a rock}^ knoll outside the Damascus Gate, and
known as "Jeremiah's Grotto." This knoll presents a striking resemblance to a

THE " ECCO HOMO" ARCH, JERUSALEM.

human skull, which corresponds to the words in the New Version, "the place
which is called the skull."

The following points of evidence in favor of this being the actual scene of the
crucifixion are striking: It was certainly outside the walls of the city in the time
of Christ; it was at the junction of the two main roads, from S. to N. and from
W. to E., and consequently there would be many passers-by (Matt, xxvii. 39, Mark
XV. 29). This hill is called by the Jews to-da}^ as it has alwaj^s been called, the
"Hill of Execution;" it is held as an accursed spot, and Jews even now, when

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

347

they pass it, spit and throw stones in its direction, uttering this imprecation:
"Cursed be He who destroyed our nation by aspiring to be king thereof."

The Writer's Impressions.

For ten days I studied this and other localities, and I confess I was deeph^
impressed by the place and its surroundings.

On this skull-shaped mound outside of the gate of Damascus the whole
transaction could have been seen b}^ the vast multitudes that thronged the public

CHURCH OF NATIVITY.

thoroughfares at that season, and the priests could have witnessed the terrible
tragedy from the wall of the city or from the tower of Antonia.

If this little hill is established as the Golgotha of the New Testament, it
necessarily follows that the sepulchre in which our Eord was laid must have been
situated somewhere in the immediate vicinit}'.

Biblical Testimony.

In John we read: "Now, in the place where He was crucified there was a
garden, and in the garden a new sepulchre, wherein was never man yet laid.

348 AROUND THE WORLD

There laid they Jesus, therefore, because of the Jews' preparation day, for the sep-
ulchre was nigh at hand." The garden containing the tomb was, therefore, quite
close to the spot where the cross stood.

A tomb that seems to correspond remarkably with the biblical account has
lately been excavated, and while as yet there has been little published about it, a
company of English Christians have bought the spot and the garden near by, and
doubtless we shall hear much of it in the near future.

The Probable Tomb.

It is located 230 feet from the summit of the knoll supposed to be Golgotha;
it is hewn out of the solid rock, and evidently was the tomb of a rich man —
Joseph of Arimathea. It is located in a garden, and the whole structure of the
tomb shows how the disciple could have stooped down and looked in without
entering.

It consists of a chamber cut in the rock, seven feet six inches in height, four-
teen feet six inches long and eleven feet two inches wide, having a low partition
dividing the tomb into two parts. In these are three receptacles for human
bodies, but only one of these appears to have been actualh' completed, and por-
tions of the "scale," which was loose at the bottom of the receptacle that was
evidently used, was taken to the British Museum, where the authorities declared
that "no body has ever decomposed in the tomb, if this is from the bottom of it."

There are strong evidences that the Crusaders knew of this tomb. At the
east end two crosses are inscribed on the wall in red paint, with the letters Alpha
and Omega at the corners, and it has been ascertained that an arched building
once existed in front of the tomb, supposed to have been erected about the twelfth
century.

There are the faint outlines of an inscription which, if ever deciphered, may
tell us how those who, centuries ago, looked upon this sepulchre regarded it.

From what has been written certain inferences may fairly be drawn, namely,
that the traditional Holy Sepulchre cannot possibly be the true site of the tomb
of Christ, as it lies within the walls of the ancient city; that the skull-shaped hill
is in all probability the true Calvary, and that the rock-cut sepulchre in the
immediate vicinity of the hill answers all the conditions of the tomb in which
the body of the Christ lay.

I have penned these words in a room cut into the rock, just below the Skull
Hill, where lives the old Christian man who watches over the new-found tomb,
who insists that he stays in the house occupied by the gardener whom Mary thought
she saw when she looked upon the resurrected Lord.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

349

Christ's Birthplace.

Mounted upon a fine horse, it was with anticipations of great pleasure that I
passed through the Jaffa Gate, and leaving Jerusalem to the north, passed into the
Valley of Gihon, on the way to the birthplace of the King of kings.

THE TRADITIONAL, STONE; OF ELIJAH, NEAR BETHLEHEM.

Every new view of the historic valleys, meadows and hillocks recalls events
that are and sh^ll always be of stupendous importance and thrilling interest to
the world.

We are now in the plain which marks the boundary line between Judah and
Benjamin, where the Philistines were defeated by David; presently there is pointed
out a well where tradition tells us that the wise men from the east on their way

350 AROUND THE WORLD

to the manger of the child Jesus, stooping to draw water, saw the star reflected
in the water.

Here is the spot where it is said the prophet Elijah rested on his flight from
the fiery Jezebel, and less than a mile farther we approach the tomb of Rachel,
which brings to mind the touching story of the death of Jacob's loved wife, as given
in the thirty-fifth chapter of Genesis, just before she reached her journey's end.

After a short six -mile ride on an elongated hill, well cultivated in terraces
round the sides and with fertile grain fields in the valley below, we look upon
Bethlehem.

The groups of women in white robes standing yonder on a terrace just under
the town, gesticulating to one another in vigorous conversation, remind one of
the group that surrounded Naomi, the sorrow-stricken widow returning to this,
her native home, with exclamations of surprise at her haggard face.

The men and women in yonder field cutting the golden grain give you a
vivid picture of Ruth gleaning after the reapers, when Boaz saw her in these very
fields about Bethlehem, loved her for her love, and in process of time she became
the grandmother of David the king and the ancestress of Christ.

It was upon one of these hills that David, the ruddy youth, kept his father's
sheep, as the 3'oung boy is doing on the green slope before you, and it was in the
sunshine and shadow of these vales and hillocks that God created within him
those treasures of music and poetry that have enriched all the centuries.

The Scripture allusions to Bethlehem, which we now enter, are very
numerous. Here it was that Samuel anointed David to be king of Israel, and in the
adjacent hill country the shepherd boy encountered wild beasts, and composed his
earliest Psalms. From here he was sent to minister to the diseased mind of Saul
by his melodious harpings. Hence he went forth to see his brethren with the
army and slay the giant champion of Philistia.

This little city was one of the strongholds fortified by Rehoboam after the
division of the kingdom, and it figured conspicuously in the political life of the
ancient Hebrews; but, above all, it was the prophecy of Micah and its wonderful
fulfillment which make Bethlehem a household word wherever Christianity is
professed, and cause millions all over the world to turn their thoughts toward this
Judean village as Christmastide comes round. "And, thou, Bethlehem,
Ephratah, though thou be little among the thousands of Judah, 3'et out of thee
shall He come forth unto me that is to be ruler in Israel, whose goings forth have
been from of old, from everlasting."

The angelic announcement made to the shepherds as they kept their sheep by
night nearby, and the wondrous events recorded in detail by the Eva'ngelists
Matthew and Euke, and summed up by St. John in the statement that "the Word
was made flesh and dwelt among us," have made this place known in all civilized
lands.

A BETHI.EHKM MERCHANT.

(351)

352 AROUND THE WORLD

At the eastern extremity of the village we find a confused fortress, like a pile
of buildings, which comprises the Church of the Nativity, and the three contig-
uous convents belong respectively to the Latin, Greek and Armenian Churches.

Church of the Nativity.

The nave of the church, which is the common property of all Christians, is
supposed to be the oldest monument of Christian architecture in the world.

In the chapel of St. Helena (named for the mother of Constantine) there are
forty-four marble columns, taken from Mount Moriah, supposed to have been
originally in the porches of the great temple.

Descending a spiral staircase we enter the Grotto of the Nativity, which is
a cave in the rock, over and around which the church and convent buildings are
reared. The vault is 33 feet by 1 1 feet, encased with Italian marble and decorated
with numerous lamps, figures of saints, embroidery and other ornaments.

A silver star on the floor of the grotto indicates the traditional spot where
the Saviour was born; above it sixteen silver lamps are perpetually burning, and
around the star are the words: Hie de virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est.

That caves in the hillside adjacent to the inn were utilized as stables for the
cattle, especially when the inn was crowded, and that in such a cave the Redeemer
was born, is a tradition commonly accepted as early as the time of Justin Martyr,
about a hundred years after the facts occurred. This, therefore, may be the
actual place of Christ's birth.

St. Jerome's Grotto.

St. Jerome, who ardently believed in this grotto as his Saviour's birthplace,
spent the greater part of his life just here. Here he fasted, prayed, dreamed and
studied; here he gathered round him his devoted followers in the small commu-
nities which formed the beginnings of conventual life in Palestine; here his fiery
spirit vented itself in the treatises, letters and commentaries which he sent forth
from his retirement to terrify and enlighten the western world; here he made the
famous translation of the Scriptures which is still the ''Biblia Vidgata'' of the
Latin Church; and here took place his pathetic death, which Domenichino has .so
vividly portrayed in his world-renowned picture.

Near the outskirts of the town is seen the well of Bethlehem, or David's
Well, which is referred to in 2 Samuel xxiii. 13-17, and i Chronicles xi. 15-19.

When David and his men were in the cave of Adullam (which is still
pointed out), and Bethlehem was garrisoned by the Philistines, David expressed
the de.sire, "Oh, that one would give me to drink of the water of the well of
Bethlehem, that is at the gate." Three brave men heard the wish of their leader,
rushed through the hosts of the enemy and brought him the cooling drink he

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 353

longed for, but David would not drink of the water because the lives of his men
had been hazarded.

The Shepherds' Field.

From an elevated and most picturesque spot near the walls of the old cit}- can
be seen the Shepherds' Field, which stretches for miles over the green meadows
and hill slopes.

As we looked out upon the charming landscape, yonder in the distance could
be seen a group of shepherds, with long crooks in their hands, watching over
the flocks as they quietly fed in the vales. My guide informs me that all during
the spring months, in these fields the shepherds watch their sheep by night.
"And there were in the same country shepherds abiding in the fields, keeping
watch over their flock by night. And lo! the angel of the Lord came upon them,
and the glory of the Lord shone round about them; and they were sore afraid.
And the angel said, Fear not; for behold I bring you good tidings of great joy,
which shall be to all people. For unto you is born this daj' in the City of David
a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord. And this shall be a sign unto you: Ye shall
find the babe wrapped in swaddling clothes, lying in a manger. And suddenly
there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly hosts praising God, and
saying. Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men."

The Pools of Solomon.

The immense basins, a few miles south of Jerusalem, known as Solomon's
Pools, are in such an admirable state of preservation that you can hardly realize
that they are more than a century old, but it is probable that they date from
Solomon's time, although we know that they were restored by Pontius Pilate.

At present water is conveyed from these pools only as far as Bethlehem,
although the course of the aqueduct can be traced to the old court of the temple,
a distance of nearly fourteen miles, and it is reported that the Turkish govern-
ment has on hand funds for the restoration of these pools to their original state
of usefulness.

There is near the upper pool a huge building with castellated walls, obviously

of Saracenic origin.

The Sealed Fountain.

A short distance to the right of this castle is the sealed fountain of Solomon
(Song of Sol. iv. 12), which regulated and secured the constant supply of water
for the Holy City.

The pools consist of three enormous cisterns of marble masonry, and their
measurements are as follows: The lower pool is in length 582 feet; breadth, east

23

354

AROUND THE WORT.D

end, 207 feet; west, 148 feet; depth at east end, 50 feet. Dr. Thomson says
that "when full it would float the largest man-of-war that ever plowed the
ocean . ' '

The middle pool is located 248 feet above the lower pool and is 423 feet in

ti* *^ .

GIBEON, THE SCENE OF SOI^OMON'S SACRIFICE.

length, 250 feet in breadth at the east end and 160 feet at the west end and is 39
feet in depth at the east end.

The upper pool is 160 feet above the middle pool and in length is 380 feet, in
breadth at the east end 236 feet, at the west end 229 feet, and has a depth of
25 feet.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 355

For more than three hours from these pools we passed over a rough road
southward. Vallej-s and spurs of hills are crossed and olive groves, vineyards
and fig gardens are seen on either side during much of the way. Merchantmen,
with their long camel trains, are frequentl}- met; and husbandmen are seen fol-
lowing their one-handled plows, drawn b}- donkeys and oxen.

The House of Abraham.

Soon we reached a spot where the Jews declare that their Father Abraham
pitched his tent, whicn is still known as the House of Abraham.

A crowd of thoughts rushed through our minds as we passed over the old
road to Hebron, probabl}' the oldest road in the world. Over it Abraham passed
on that journey of faith to sacrifice his son of promise on Mount Moriah; over it
David led his faithful host to conquer the stronghold of the Jebusites, on Zion;
here, doubtless, Isaac, Jacob and Solomon walked, thinking of the destinj- of that
nation which promised to be the centre of universal empire, and along this
way, perhaps, the child Jesus was borne in His mother's arms on the flight to
Egypt.

The Town of Hebron.

We were somewhat wearied when we passed through the gate of the old city
of Hebron, one of the most ancient cities in the world. We know that it was
built seven years before Zoan (Numbers xiii. 22), that is, Tanis in Egypt, and
when Josephus wrote it was 2300 years old. It was a walled city in the time of
Abraham (Gen. xxiii. 10), and we also learn from Genesis that Damascus was a
city at the same time, but which can claim seniority is not known.

Here lived the father of his people and the "friend of God;" from this place
Joseph went forth to seek his brethren in Shechem, where his strange fate befell
him; here it was that Joshua waged fierce struggles; this was selected as one of
the cities of refuge, unto which the pursued man-slayer might flee; it was here
that David had his residence for over seven years, when he reigned over Judah
alone. Here Absalom was born and led his wild, faithless life; and in this place
was Abner treacherously murdered by Joab.

Hebron is situated in the narrow Valley of Eschol, still abounding in vine-
yards; the streets are dark and dirty and the houses are mostly built of stone and
covered over with cupolas or small domes, which give a curious and interesting
effect.

Of the 12,000 people who live in this unique old town about 600 are Jews,
who attract attention by their pale faces and long ringlets. The Moslems, who
compose the rest of the population, are noted for their rank fanaticism and super-
stition, which fact makes it dangerous for Christians to visit the place unguarded.

356 AROUND THE WORLD

At the entrance to the city we were met by a Turkish official, who, armed to
the teeth, went before us in all of our walks and drives through the streets.

Only recently an Englishman was set upon by a crowd of these roughs and
only escaped with his life.

The Cave of flachpelah.

The Cave of Machpelah is the object of the greatest interest in Hebron. It
recalls some of the most touching of the Old Testament scenes.

When Sarah, the wife of the patriarch, died, we read that "Abraham stood
up from before his dead and spake unto the sous of Heth, saying: 'I am a
stranger and a sojourner with you; give me a possession of a burying place with
3'ou, that I may bury my dead out of my sight.' " The contract was made in
the gate of the city, and the field, the cave, the trees in the field, all were "made
sure to Abraham for a possession, and Abraham buried Sarah, his wife, in the
cave of the field of Machpelah." (Gen. 23.)

Patriarchs' Burial Place.

As old Jacob laj' a-dying he tenderly spoke of this Cave of Machpelah, and
said: " There they buried Abraham and Sarah, his wife; there they buried Isaac
and Rebekah, his wife, and there I buried lycah." He gave explicit directions
that his body should rest there with his fathers.

Perhaps there was never a grander funeral than that of Jacob, when Joseph,
" with all the servants of Pharaoh, the elders of his house, and all the elders of
the land of Egypt, and all the house of Joseph, and his brethren and his father's
house, and chariots and horsemen" carried the embalmed body from Egypt into
the land of Canaan to the Cave of Machpelah.

Closed to Jew and Gentile.

It seems strange that the brutal Turkish government should be allowed to
close the doors to this cave, that is of such great interest to the Christian world
and to all who are concerned about ancient Israel. The only Christian visitors
who have ever crossed the threshold of the building that covers the cave are the
Prince of Wales, the Marquis of Bute, the Crown Prince of Prussia, General Lew
Wallace, Princes Albert Victor and George of Wales.

I was shown cracks and rents along the walls where devout Jews are accus-
tomed to place written prayers addressed to their Father Abraham. I have before
me an exact copy of one of these prayerful epistles, and the Jewish mother who
wrote it and attempted to put it into the cave where the bodies of her distin-
guished ancestors rest appeals most pathetically for individual, domestic and
national blessings.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

357

The Oak of Abraham.

This is believed to be the onlj^ spot on earth which attracts to it all who
possess the one creed, " I believe in God." The Hoh' Sepulchre in Jerusalem
separates Mosletn, Jew" and Christian, but here they meet with a reverence
equally affectionate. Not far awaj^ from the cave the Oak of Abraham is visited,
where it is supposed that the Lord appeared to the patriarch as he sat in his tent
door and gave him the account of the coming destruction of Sodom and Gomor-
rah. It is certain that in this neighborhood this wonderful conference took place,
but that this oak, old as it seems, was then standing is as probable as that the
grave of Adam has been identified.

SYRIAN PEASANT MOTHER AND DAUGHTER.

CHAPTER XVII.
PEOPLES AND PLACES OF THE SOUTH AND NORTH.

'{^ URING the course of a month I have ridden on horseback more
than four hundred miles through Palestine and Syriaon my
way to Asia Minor.

On this long tour, with the aid of an excellent dragoman,
I have not only been enabled to visit the principal cities and
towns of these historically interesting countries, of which I have
written, but I have had occasion to study the habits and customs of the wild
Bedouin tribes that live their unsettled lives in these valleys and along these
mountain slopes.

On the western side of the Jordan river there are many of these roving
bodies of men, women and children, divided into different family tribes, but on
the eastern side of the river there are only a few tribes much larger than the
others and very much wilder. Each tribe has a sheik or prince, who is final
authority on all questions, and often has the power of life and death. This office
is hereditary, as a rule. When an election is necessar}^ it is done by vocal decla-
ration, must in all cases be unanimous, and must be endorsed b)' the government
at Constantinople.

The head of each tribe is legally required to pay to the Sultan one Turkish
pound (nearl}^ five dollars), for each man who is able to go to war, which amount,
paid yearly, rids these men from military duty under the government. Certain
districts of country are allowed these tribes where their tents and herds are
usually found, but frequently they roam in other parts of the land, carrying on
their independent raids until they are driven into their own regions by Turkish
guns.

Their tents are generally made of the hair of goats, ingeniously woven, and
their food consists nearly altogether of bread made into thin wafers, looking very
much like sheets of sandpaper, butter made from the goat and buffalo cow and
fish, which abound in all the streams.

The Bedouins are natural born robbers, and it is always unsafe for any one to
pass through their country unguarded.

Some time ago a party was visiting the Jordan and Dead Sea with the
usual guard; but four of the number separated from the others, and in less than

(358)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 359

two hours they were seized, and robbed of their horses, money and clothing. A
most pitiable set they were, I am told, when they reached their tents after night.

An American Guide's Story.

Mr. Rolla Floyd, who is the only American dragoman in Palestine and Syria,
entertained me for several days by a recital of some of his experiences during a
thirty years' stay in the country.

Not long since, while accompanying a number of ladies and gentlemen
through the desert, in the neighborhood of ancient Shechem, a noise was heard
in the hills near by; and, on turning, he found they were being surrounded by
forty or fifty Bedouins, headed by their sheik. Of course there was great terror
among the party, and for a while Mr. Floyd was stricken with fear. But a for-
tunate thought occurred to the dragoman. It is a custom among these wild
tribes to befriend any one who is in trouble, if he reaches the sheik and, seizing
his belt, exclaims: " I am your guest."

While demands were being made upon Mr. Floyd and those under his protec-
tion, and the robbers were in the act of carrying out their desires, he rushed
forward and, taking a strong grip upon the belt of the sheik, exclaimed, in
Arabic, "These are all your guests." This acted like magic. The robbery was
ordered off ; the sheik drew his sword and in a most pompous manner announced
to his men that the party was under his protection and guidance, and, leading the
way, he guided them for hours through the desert.

When I was suddenly approached by a band of these barbarians at ten
o'clock at night, in the wild country east of the Jordan, by the moonlight I saw
that there was no belt to seize. As all of them were clothed in single and
unadorned garments, I resorted to another device, which proved just as effective,
though not so dignified, and which put me quite a distance from them in a very
short time.

A Missionary's Adventure.

Mr. Carey, whose life-long residence in Palestine and Syria furnishes him
with a fund of information on this subject that is possessed by few, gave me an
account of a personal episode with the Bedouins which illustrates their exceeding
kind-heartedness after they have robbed you of everything that they can lay
their hands on.

Mr. Carey left his home in Nablous on a missionary tour among the moun-
tains once owned by the tribe of Reuben, east of the Jordan river. After crossing
the stream he had not gone many miles when he was surrounded by a score of
these men, who, lifting him off his beast, stripped him of his clothing and, while
he sat on a cool rock near by and watched the performance, they examined

36o

AROUND THE WORLD

carefully all of the garments, ripping open the linings of his coat, and after they had
taken everything, even his pocket-knife, they tossed him his clothing and politely
informed him that he could go his way.

As it was now late in the evening, he told them that he could not continue
his journey after dark without losing his way, and requested that they would take
care of him until the next morning. They immediately and gladly agreed to do
this, helped him on his donkey, led the way through the valley to the place of

PALESTINE MAT WEAVERS.

their encampment, cooked him food, listened most attentively w^hile he told them
Bible stories, tucked him in bed and started him on his journey next day with
everything that he had when he met them except his money and other things in
his traveling-bag that the}- could possibly use.

It seems that the belt trick is not known among the inhabitants of Reuben's
ancient province. I had occasion to visit one of their encampments, but it is
impossible for me to picture adequately tlfeir mode of living.

(3^3 U

362 AROUND THE WORIvD

Each famil}' in the general family tribe occupies a small tent of one room,
which is the sleeping, cooking and working apartment. The floor is the bare
ground, which in a few cases may be partl}^ covered bj' bits of dirty goat-hair cloth.

The eating is done in front of the tents, where the family sits in a semicircle,
using their palms as plates and fingers as forks. A peculiarly distasteful butter,
churned from the milk of the goat and buffalo cow, is their chief means of sup-
port, and, as a rule, they reside in one locality not more than two months.

They claim a direct descent from Abraham, who was, they insist, a wealthy
sheik of a large tribe.

Home of EH and Samuel.

It was in the city of Shiloh that Joshua divided the land among the tribes,
and here the tabernacle was reared; here dwelt old man Eli and the boy Samuel,
whose strange experiences are recorded in the first book of Samuel.

As we ride northward the fields abound in heavy-headed grain, the fig and
olive groves stretch for miles before us, and to the right Mount Ebal and to the
left Mount Gerizim loom up.

At Jacob's Well.

In the valley dividing them we reach the famous Jacob's Well, where Christ
held His memorable conversation with a Samaritan woman.

The authenticity of this place has never been doubted. Doubtless here the
Saviour sat, and over to the right is the parcel of ground that Jacob gave to his
son Joseph.

The well is not a spring of water bubbling up from the earth, nor is it reached
by an excavation, but it is a shaft cut in the living rock about nine feet in diameter,
and now more than seventy feet deep. The mouth is funnel-shaped, and its sides
are formed by the rubbish of a church building that was once erected over it.

Passing between the mountains of Gerizim, where blessings were pronounced
upon the people, and Ebal, where curses were poured out upon them, we
encamped for the night at ancient Shechem.

Somewhere about here Joseph was seized by his brethren and sold to the Ish-
maelites, and his bones were brought from Egypt and buried here.

On these plains all Israel assembled in the time of Joshua. After the death
of Solomon this city was made the seat of government under Jeroboam. After
the return from the captivity it became the centre of Samaritan worship.

After His talk with the Samaritan woman Christ tarried here two days and

many believed in Him.

The Samaritans.

There is, and alwavs has been, a bitter animosity between the Jews and the
Samaritans, and it became a sin on either side to extend the rights of hospitality.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

363

The greatest curiosity to be seen in the old sj-nagogue is the celebrated
Samaritan Codex of the Pentateuch, which is affirmed to have been written by a
grandson of Aaron, but which is certainly not older than the Christian era

On Mount Gerizim.

The view from the summit of Mount Gerizim is exquisite. In the far west
are the waters of the Mediterranean; in the north the snowy top of Hermon, partly
intercepted by Mount Ebal; below, to the east, is the fertile plain that was the
arena of so many important events in sacred history, and beyond are the mountains
of Gilead.

There is only a small number of them left who exclusively follow their old
customs and inhabit what is known as the Samaritan quarter of the city. They
believe in one God, the resurrection of the body, the advent of the Messiah, the
Mosaic system of feasts, and
they acknowledge only the
authority of the Pentateuch in
the Old Testament writings.

The journey from Shec-
hem (now called Nabulus) to
Samaria is through the beau-
tiful valle}^ where every va-
riety of vegetation is seen,
and where I counted in one
large field thirty-two plowmen
at work.

The City of Samaria.

Entering the city of Sa-
maria, as one looks upon the
desolate scene, the burden of
prophecy comes to mind
(Hoseaxiii. 16), and the story
of the siege of Samaria, as
given in 2 Kings vi. 24-33,
lend a peculiar interest to a
place that once exerted such
a mighty influence, but is now largely a pile of magnificent ruins.

From this desolation we turn toward the romantic plain of Esdraelon, which
stretches from the Mediterranean on the west across Central Palestine, with an
average width of ten or twelve miles, to the river Jordan, on the east. These
fertile meadows, which now smile in their gay dresses of wild flowers and ripening
grain, have for centuries been the scene of plunder and war.

WEAVING.

CHAPTER XVIII.

IN SADDLE AND TENT.

O spend thirty days in saddle and tent is not the most restful
experience, but this must be accomplished if one would cover
the length and breadth of Palestine and visit all the places of
sacred and secular history that have made this wonderful land
so famous.

In former chapters I have written of the country between
Jaffa and Jerusalem, of the Holy City, of the region about the
Jordan and Dead Sea, of the country south of Jerusalem, and of the city of the
Samaritans.

Accompanied by an intelligent conductor and a native dragoman, who fur-
nished horses, servants, tents and provisions for several weeks' trip, a congenial
party of ten Anglo-Saxons, forming quite a caravan, moved out of Jerusalem
northward.

From the beautiful hill Scopus a last view is taken of the Holy City, which
leaves an indelible impression on the mind.

The town of Nob is soon passed, where David came for Goliath's sword,
where he ate the shewbread which Christ commended and where the tabernacle ,
and ark were stationed in the time of Saul. A mile or two further the site of
Gibeah, the native place of the first king of Israel, is pointed out, where seven
descendants of Saul were hanged by the Amorites, and which was the scene of
one of the most touching stories of motherly love on record, as given in 2 Samuel
xxi chapter.

To the left we now have Mizpah, where Saul was chosen king, and to the
north is Gibeon, the place where Solomon offered a thousand burnt offerings and
the lyord appeared to him in a dream.

We pause for a short while at the spot where tradition tells us Mary missed
the young boy Jesus and returning to Jerusalem found Him in the temple asking
and answering questions, and an hour later we reach Bethel.

Records of Bethel.

Here Abraham reared an altar, and from this place he went into Egypt and
fell into temptation, dishonoring God before the heathen king, who dismissed him
from the country; here Jacob, weary with his forty miles' journey, lay his head

(364)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 365

upon a pillow of stone and had that wondrous dream of angels ascending and
descending the mystic ladder which made him exclaim: " This is none other than
the house of God and this is the gate of heaven," and he called the name of that
place Bethel. At this place Jeroboam set up a golden calf and tried to wean the
people from the service of God, and hereabouts the bears tore forty- two children,
who cried to Elisha: " Go up, thou bald head."

After passing over a barren, rocky hill, we enter the vineyards and orchards
of the land of Ephraim, which is as fertile and picturesque as any part of Pales-
tine. But Shiloh must not be passed unnoticed. Its large heap of ruins seem to
be a singularly graphic fulfillment of the terrible prophecy of Jeremiah.

Following the Footsteps of the Christ.

The fourth day out from Jerusalem in our northward journey we camped on
the Plain of Esdraelon, with the mountains of Gilboa on our right.

The following day, as we entered the Valle}' of Jezreel, associations crowded
upon us.

Here is where Ahab coveted the vineyard of Naboth; in this neighborhood is
where the painted Jezebel proceeded with her wicked machinations, and where
the prophet Elijah came down upon her with messages of wrath. It was along
this wa}' that Jehu came "driving furiously' ' and put Jehoram to death; and it was
in this valley that Gideon gained his famous victory over the Midianites.

The Valley of Jezreel.

On this very ground Saul pitched his camp, while the Philistines encamped
over there at Shunem and here it was that he was alarmed when he saw the host of
the Philistines, and under cover of darkness visited the witch of Endor.

During the next two hours' ride we pass Gideon's Fountain, where his 300
men lapped water, putting the hand to the mouth. Next comes Shunem, where
the woman lived who entertained Elisha and whose son he raised from the dead.
Beyond lies the village of Nain, where Christ raised the widow's son (Luke vii. 11-
16), and a short ride across the plain brings us to the foot of Mount Tabor, from
whose altitude of 2017 feet, the traditional scene of the transfiguration, the eye
can range from the vicinity of Dan on the north to Beersheba on the south.

riount Tabor.

Standing almost alone in the plain. Mount Tabor presents a mo.st striking
appearance. It is somewhat in the shape of a sugar-loaf, flattened at the top.
On the southern side it is rough and rugged, with nothing but barren limestone
visible; northward it is covered with thick foliage, oak, terebinth and syringa
ornamenting it from base to summit; elsewhere it presents the appearance of a
series of well-planted terraces.

366

AROUND THE WORI^D

The summit of the mountain is a broad plateavt, covered with the ruins of
buildings of all ages; there are the thick, beveled stones of a wall, very ancient,
undoubtedly, and there are the remains of towers, houses, cisterns and vaults,
probably belonging to the age of the Crusaders.

As we approach the high hill on which Nazareth stands a sharp, precipitous
spur of the mountain, called the Mount of Precipitation, is pointed out, which
name arose from the worthless tradition that alleges that it was from here that the
people of Nazareth sought to cast the Saviour down headlong. It is about two
miles from the town and about as improbable a site as could have been selected.

Nazareth.

After climbing a sharp ascent through glens and gullies and over steep and
rugged places, where the well-trained Syrian horses pick their way -with mar-
velous sagacity, we at length
enter Nazareth, where the
Christ spent thirty years of
His life.

The town, as seen from
the enclosing hill, is very pic-
turesque, backed by high cliffs
and approached from under
the shade of spreading oaks,
with substantial looking
houses of stone, the massive
walls of a large church and
monastery and the graceful
minarets of two mosques,
overtopped by the tall, spiral
forms of the dark green
cypress tree. Nazareth was
the residence of Joseph and Mary, the scene of the annunciation, the place
whence Joseph went to Bethlehem " to be taxed with Mary, his espoused wife,"
and the home of our Lord until He entered upon His public ministry. After-
ward He visited the place of His boyhood and young manhood, when His
townsmen attempted to cast Him from the brow of the hill and kill Him.

Tradition has marked many spots in the town, associating them with the life
of Christ, but nothing positive can be asserted about these localities.

It was with some degree of satisfaction that I visited a carpenter's shop, and
as it is quite certain that for centuries and centuries these shopmen have been

FARMING IN VALLEY OF JEZREEL.

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1.307;

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AROUND THE WORLD

doiug the same kind of work, I imagined that the man and boy whom I watched
at work were engaged in the same kind of activity as were Joseph and the boy
Jesus nearly nineteen hundred years ago.

The Virgin's Fountain.

At the Fountain of the Virgin, a plentiful spring of water issuing from three
mouths, the village women in their white robes and bright head-dresses assemble,

and gracefully bear away their
well-filled pitchers on their
heads; and as the same foun-
tain has been in use ever
since the town was inhab-
ited, doubtless she who was
' ' blessed among women"
would often come here, per-
haps carrying the infant Sa-
viour in just the same fashion
as that young mother yonder,
who moves away from the
sparkling stream, with her
pitcher poised on her head
and her babe in her arm.

Among the remarkable
things in the modern history
of Nazareth are the circum-
stances that Napoleon supped
here on the night of the battle
of Tabor, and that a plot was
laid here b}^ Pasha Jezzar to
murder all the Christians in
his dominions as soon as the
French had evacuated. His
bloodthirsty scheme, however, was thwarted by Sir Sydney Smith, the English
admiral.

Cana and Mount of Beatitudes.

As we ride toward the Sea of Galilee we soon approach the village of Cana,
where Christ performed His first miracle at the marriage feast, when "the con-
scious water saw its Eord and blushed," where He healed the nobleman's son who
lay sick at Capernaum, and where Nathaniel, " the disciple in whom there was
no guile," was born.

A PAI^ESTINE BEDOUIN.

24

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370 AROUND THE WORLD

Resuming our journey, we have now on our left, rising up out of the fertile
plain, a curiouslj^ shaped hill, having on its summit two peaks or horns, from
which it derives its name of Horns of Hatton.

This is known as the Mount of Beatitudes, where it is supposed our Lord
preached the Sermon on the Mount.

Another tradition makes this also to be the scene of the feeding of the five
thousand, as recorded in the fourteenth chapter of Matthew.

The plain before us was the last battlefield of the Crusaders. Here, in July,
1 187, Saladin defeated them.

The Crusaders' Battlefield.

As faithfully chronicled by Michaud we read that at nightfall they gathered
together by the Horns of Hatton, Guy of Lusignau, with Raynald of'chatillon,
the grand master of the Knights Templar, and the Bishop of Lydda, bearing the
holy cross.

But a great triumph awaited the Moslem, and the power of the Crusaders
was broken forever in the Holy Land. King Guy was taken prisoner; Chatillon,
whom Saladin hated with a peculiar hatred, was killed, and all the army of the
noble knights were slain or taken prisoner.

The more one sees of the Moslem rule the stronger is his wish that ere long
some power may rise and sweep from this land of blessed memory a nation of
brutes, whose barbarous cruelty is only exceeded by their religious hypocrisy.

On the Sea of Galilee.

A magnificent view of the Sea of Galilee can be obtained several miles before
its waters are reached.

The whole of the lake, from below Tiberias on the right to Capernaum on
the left, is distinctly seen, lying in a basin more than a thousand feet below the
steeply-sloping and well-clothed hills upon which you approach it.

Across the lake rise the irregular hills, bare and barren in foliage, but rich
and varied in tone and tint; behind are the mountains of Galilee, and way to the
north snow-capped Hermon stands in its spotless purity against the clear
azure sky.

The natural beauty is only exceeded by the divine associations.

The City of Jesus.

Cast out from Nazareth, Jesus made Capernaum on the lake His cit3^ Along
these shores He spent the principal part of His public ministr}^, and to record the
mighty works performed within sight of these blue waters would be to transcribe
a very large part of the four gospels.

A PAI^ESTINE BURDEN BEARER.

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^72 AROUND THE WORLD

From the banks of the lake He called Peter, James and John, the inner circk-
of His chosen band. From Simon's boat He taught the people on the shore, fol-
lowing His talk by the miracle of the draught of fishes, and using a ship as His
pulpit He delivered that marvelous discourse on the kingdom of Heaven. Here
it was that He gave those striking parables of the sower, the wheat and the tares,
the grain of mustard seed, the leaven and the net cast into the sea. It was on
these waters that a great tempest arose, when He rebuked the winds and the sea
and there was a great calm.

Divine Associations.

It was on the slope of the hill over yonder that He cast the devils out of the
men from the tombs, causing the destruction of the herd of swine; near there He
fed the five thousand and afterward walked on the crystal pavement of the sea
toward His disciples, rowing in the storm.

From these waters He caused to be caught the fish, in whose mouth was
found the piece of money with which He paid tribute, and after His resurrection
in the gray dawn of the morning He suddenly appeared to His disciples, after
they had toiled all night, and caught nothing. There on the shore He kindled
the mysterious fire of coals, spread the farewell meal, and there the impulsive
disciple, who, three times warned, had thrice denied his Lord, by threefold con-
fession, was restored and reinstated in the apostolic ofiice.

Camping Near Capernaum.

On the site of Capernaum we camped, and from my tent door the views were
verj^ striking.

The hills, except where there are cliffs, recede gradually from the lake; they
are of no great elevation, but everywhere from the shore the snow fields of
Hermon are visible.

The shore-line, for the most part regular, is broken on the north into a series
of little bays of exquisite beauty, especially at Gennesaret, where the beaches,
pearly white with myriads of minute shells, are on one side bathed by the clear
waters of the lake, and on the other shut in by a fringe of oleanders, rich at this
time of the year with their blossoms, red and bright.

Lake Gennesaret and the Jordan.

The lake is pear-shaped, the broad end being toward the north. The greatest
width is six and three-quarter miles, and the extreme length is twelve and a
quarter miles.

The Jordan river enters at the north, coloring the lake for a mile from its
mouth, and passes out pure and bright at the south.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

373

On the northwestern shore is a plain nearly three miles broad, known as
Gennesaret; on the west there is a recess in the hills containing the town of
Tiberias; on the east are small tracts of level ground before the hill country is
reached, and on the south the open valley of the Jordan stretches out toward the
Dead Sea, covered near the lake with luxuriant vegetation.

The lake is from 600 to 700 feet below the Mediterranean Sea. It is still

GROUP SHOWING COSTUMES OF PAIvESTINE AT PRESENT DAY.

subject to sudden and violent storms, as in the time when Christ and His disciples
rode upon its bosom.

In the lake there are a number of warm springs, and violent earthquakes are
not infrequent, as in 1837, when half of the inhabitants of Tiberias perished.

A Prophecy Fulfilled.

Capernaum, Bethsaida, Chorazin — mounds of rubbish, tangles of thistles,
heaps of ruins — recall those pathetic words of our Eord: "Then began He to
upbraid the cities wherein most of His mighty works were done because they
repented not:

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"Woe unto thee, Choraziu! Woe unto thee, Bethsaida! For if the mighty
works which were done in you had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they would
have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes. But I say unto you, it shall be
more tolerable for Tyre and Sidon at the day of judgment than for you.

"And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven, shall be brought

down to hell! For if the might}' works which were done in thee had been done

in Sodom, it would have remained until this day. But I say unto you that it

shall be more tolerable for the land of Sodom in the day of judgment than for

thee."

A Hoonlight Sail.

Accompanied by a single friend and four boatmen I can never forget the
eight hours spent on the Lake of Galilee.

During the afternoon a whistling wind dotted the water with white caps, but
as the sun was setting behind the crimson curtains in the western sky, and as the
full moon calmly looked into the depths of the lake, a voice seemed to speak,
"Peace, be still," for suddenly there was a great calm.

The white houses of Tiberias were distinctly visible in the glowing moonlight.
The sombre ruins of the cursed cities lay like black heaps upon the shores. The
hill platforms upon which the multitudes were miraculously fed and taught were
outlined in the distance.

The might}' hills on the eastern shore stood like giant sentinels against the
sky, and the placid moon-kissed Galilee seemed a fit pavement for the feet of the
Prince of Peace.

Far in the night we passed into the Jordan at the extreme northern point of
the lake, crossed to the eastern side, and after quite a thrilling experience with a
band of Bedouin robbers, which somewhat disturbed the placidity of the occasion,
we turned our boat toward the tents on the western shore, some miles away.

CHAPTER XIX.
THE EYE OF THE EAST.

'HIIvE the ancient cities along the Nile are known only by
the magnificence of their ruined temples, while Baalbec and
Palmyra have long since passed away, while Babylon is a
heap in the desert and Tyre a ruin on the shore, Damascus,
which Josephus declares was standing before Abraham's time,
and which is called in the prophecies of Isaiah ' ' the head
of Syria," is to-day, as it has been for thousands of years,
a mighty city, influencing the customs and trade of a region
of hundreds of miles around it.

Its importance in the flourishing period of the Jewish monarchy we know,
from the garrisons which David placed here and from the opposition it presented
to Solomon. How close its relations continued to be with this people we infer
from the chronicles of Jeroboam and Ahaz and the prophecies of Isaiah and Amos.
Its mercantile greatness is indicated by Ezekiel in the remarkable words addressed
to Tyre: "Damascus was thy merchant in the multitude of the wares of thy
making for the multitude of all riches, in the wine of Helbon and white wool."
Alexander the Great saw its greatness and sent Parmenio to take it while he
was engaged in marching from Tarsus and Tyre. Julian, the apostate, describes
it as "the eye of the East." Recognized at one time as the metropolis of the
Mohammedan world, its fame is mingled with the exploits of Saladin and
Tamerlane.

The tradition that the murder of Abel took place here is alluded to by
Shakespeare (I King Henry VI., i. 3).

Winchester.— ^ay , stand thou back, I will not budge a foot; ^

This be Damascus; be thou cursed Cain
To slay thy brother Abel if thou wilt.

The Streams of Lebanon.

The cause of its importance as a city in all the ages is easily seen as you
approach it from the south.

Miles before you see the mosques of the modern city the fountains of a
copious and perennial stream spring from among the rocks and brushwood at the

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376 AROUND THE WORLD

base of the Anti Lebanon, creating a wide area about them, rich with prolific
vegetation. These are the "streams of Lebanon," which are poetically spoken
of in the Songs of Solomon, and the " rivers of Damascus," which Naaman, not
unnaturally, preferredto all the " waters of Israel." This stream, with its many
branches, is the inestimable treasure of Damascus.

While the desert is a fortification round Damascus, the river, where the
habitations of men must always have been gathered, as along the Nile, is its life.

Modern Damascus.

The cit}', which is situated in a wilderness of gardens of flowers and fruits,
has rushing through its streets the limpid and refreshing current; nearl}- every
dwelling has its fountain, and at night the lights are seen flashing on the waters
that dash along from their mountain home.

As 3'ou first view the city from one of the overhanging ridges 3'ou are
prepared to excuse the Mohammedans for calling it the earthly paradise.

Around the marble minarets, the glittering domes and the white buildings,
shining with ivory softness, a maze of bloom and fruitage, where olive and pome-
granate, orange and apricot, plum and walnut mingle their varied tints of green,
is presented to the sight, in striking contrast to the miles of barren desert over
which you have just ridden.

Damascus remains the same true type of an oriental city. Caravans come
and go from Bagdad and Mecca, as of old; merchants sit and smoke over their
costly bales in dim bazaars; drowsy groups sip their cofiee in kiosks overhanging
the river; the bread boy cries aloud, "O Allah ! who sustainest us, send trade;"
the drink-seller as he rattles his brass cups exclaims, "Drink and cheer thine
heart," and all the brilliant costumes of the East mingle in the streets.

Its Bazaars and Streets.

Although Cairo contains a much larger population than Damascus, its bazaars
are by no means as extensive or imposing. These bazaars are in long avenues,
roofed over, and each is devoted to some special trade. There we find the silk,
the saddler's* the tobacco, the coppersmith's, the bookseller's, the shoe and many
other bazaars, and now and then we come across an " antique Damascus blade "
which was made last 3'ear in Germany.

While passing through the city on Friday, the great market day, I was
attracted by Persians in gorgeous silks, Nubians in black and white, Greeks in
their national costumes, Jews with long ringlets. Bedouins, Druses, Kurds and
Armenians mingling together, and lines of pilgrims on their way to Mecca — a
marvelous medley' of humanitj-, not to be seen, perhaps, elsewhere on the globe.
The great mosque (there are over two hundred smaller ones) exhibits three

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distinct styles of architecture, marking three epochs in the history of the place,
and proclaiming the three dynasties that have successively possessed it. In the
transept is a chapel said to contain the head of John the Baptist, which was found
in the crj^pt of the church.

The "street called Straight," which is interesting to all New Testament
readers, is about a mile in length and runs across the city from west to east.

In round numbers the population is about one hundred and fifty thousand,
one hundred thousand of which are Moslems. These are notorious for their
fanaticism, which has a terrible proof in the massacre of July, i860, when six
thousand Christians were slaughtered in the streets and nine thousand more in

the district about the
city.

In this butchery
we have a true picture
of the " unspeakable "
Turk when he is
aroused.

The churches
and convents, which
had been filled with
the terror-stricken
Christians, presented
piles of corpses, and
the thoroughfares
were choked with the
slain.

Through the in-
fluence brought to
bear upon the Turkish government the governor and three city officers were
shot, fifty-six of the citizens were hanged, one hundred and seventeen others
received the death penalty, four hundred were condemned to imprisonment and
exile and the city was made to pay the sum of one million dollars.

The Unspeakable Turk.

Some refused at first to believe that the Turks were responsible for the
massacre, but it has been shown beyond a doubt that they connived at it, they
instigated it, they ordered it, the)'- shared in it. Their conduct north of Damascus
at present is a repetition of the same thing.

Besides the biblical allusions that have been made to Damascus it will be
remembered that Paul was converted on his way here, and that when the

WOMAN GRINDING FI,OUR AT DAMASCUS.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 379

governor sought to apprehend him he was let down in a basket through a window
and made good his escape, and that during his residence here "he preached
Christ in the synagogue, that He is the Son of God, and confounded the Jews
which dwelt at Damascus, proving that this is the ver}- Christ." We are
tempted to think that it would take more than the eloquent voice of a Paul to
disturb the consummate indifference of the average pipe-smoking, coffee-drinking,
sleepy-eyed citizen of modern Damascus.

The Ruins of Baalbec.

Standing among the ruins of .this inglorious city j-ou look upon the remains
of two distinct but blended civilizations. The popular natural religions, which
for centuries held Asia captive, mingle the wrecks of their colossal architecture
with the exquisite forms that the artistic genius of Greece created.

Camels, sheep and goats graze on the grass which grows over the fallen,
crumbling columns and capitals, and the opening spring casts fresh, green garlands
over these relics of the dead past.

Great columns lean heavily against tottering walls, as if determined to post-
pone their fall to the last moment, and over the scene of desolation the white
chain of the Lebanon, capped b}^ perpetual snow, gives a chilling look.

Sun Worship and Temples.

Here is the ancient Heliopolis of the Greeks and Romans, celebrated for its
sun worship in the temple which was one of the wonders of the world. Here
you ma}' witness how the pride and pomp of paganism arrayed itself before its
death; here you see the ruin of an entire cit)*, full of disorder, poetr\-, grandeur,
and as you study some of this enormous debris in detail 5^ou find that nowhere is
the Corinthian acanthus carved with more delicacy than on these gigantic blocks.

The temples of Baalbec, dating at least from the reign of Antoninus Pius,
were erected on the Acropolis of the city, which was placed on an eminence, sur-
rounded with gigantic walls, the stones of which belonged to that Phoenician
architecture which has earned the name of Cyclopean.

First, there was the Great Temple of Jupiter, which has preserved a large
part of its portico, its ornate architrave, its fluted columns and a rich profusion of
decoration; then there was the Temple of the Sun, the ruins of which clearly
indicate its past grandeur, and the last was what was known as the Circular
Temple, the only remains of which are a few highly decorated chapels.

Courts and Porticoes.

Passing through a long passageway we enter a court, seventy yards long by
about eighty-five wide, which is in the form of a hexagon, with here and there
rectangular recesses in the wall, each with columns in front.

38o AROUND THE WORLD

From this hexagon originally a handsome portal led into the great court,
about a hundred and fifty yards long by a hundred and twenty-five wide, in the
centre of which stood the basilica, while around were rectangular recesses, called
by the Romans exedrae.

In front of this great court the principal temple of Baalbec stood. This
temple had columns running round it, only six of which are now standing. These
are sixty feet in height, with Corinthian capitals and bordered with a frieze.

Sacred to Jupiter.

"When the temple was in its glor}^ there were seventeen columns on either
side of the temple and ten at either end, fifty-four in all, the building enclosed by
them being two hundred and ninety feet long by one hundred and sixty broad.

The masses of broken columns and falling w^alls indicate not only the work
of the " tooth of time," but the ruthless ravages of the Arabs, who have destroyed
priceless treasures in art in order that they might secure the iron clamps in
the columns.

In the grand portico of the temple there is an inscription, which ma}- be
translated as follows: "To the great gods of Heliopolis. For the safety- of the
Lord Ant. Pius Aug. and of Julia Aug., the mother of our Lord of the Castra
(here it is quite indistinct) Senate. A devoted (subject) of the sovereigns (caused)
the capitals of the columns of Antoninus, while in the air, (to be, ) embossed with
gold at her own expense. ' '

Sun's Trilithon.

The second temple, or Temple of the Sun, stands on a platform lower than
that of the Great Temple; nineteen out of the forty-six columns, each sixty-five
feet high, remain, and the capitals and entablatures of the columns and the friezes
round them are as exquisitely executed as anything in Baalbec.

The portal of the temple claims one's special attention. The door-posts are
monoliths, most richly ornamented with foliage and genii; the architrave is of
three stones, on the lower side of which is the figure of an eagle, the emblem of
the sun, and the basement, which is one hundred by seventy feet, is ornamented
most profusely.

Built into the outer wall are three stones, the largest ever used in architecture.
The temple was, at one time, called Trilithon, or three-stoned, probably from these
stupendous blocks. One stone measures sixty-four feet long, another sixty-three
feet eight inches, and a third sixty-three. Each is thirteen feet high and thirteen
feet thick, and placed in the wall at a height of twenty feet above ground.

It is still an unsolved problem how they were ever raised to their present
position.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

381

The Quarries of Lebanon.

At the quarries in the Lebanon mountains, where doubtless these stones came
from, I examined an unfinished block which is seventy-one feet long and nearly
eighteen feet in thickness. The Circular Temple, which is located near to the
modern village, is surrounded by Corinthian columns, is richly adorned by a frieze
of flowers and the entablature is heavily laden with elaborate decoration.

As I sat upon an ornately sculptured parapet and, quietly and alone, studied
this wilderness of magnificent ruins, where were displayed Phoenician glor^^ and
power, the poetry of Grecian art and the pomp of Roman pride, the transitory
character of even the most permanent and glorious of the material was pictured
before me as never before.

ORPHANS IN CAMP ON A TRIP TO THE JOKI \ 1

CHAPTER XX.
IN ASIA niNOR.

N the Ivcvant, which is chiefly in Asia Minor and belongs to
Turkey, there are two cities which are of special interest to the
tourist. The first is Smyrna, the capital of Anatolia, the
second city of Turkey and the great port of Asia Minor and
the Levant trade. As you enter the bay, a noble inlet, forty-
five by twenty-two miles, the city presents a most striking appearance, with its
two harbors, covering seventy acres; its fine breakwater, 1125 yards long; its
splendidly built quay, over two miles in length, which cost $1,500,000, and the
Governor's palace, the barracks, the imposing Vizier Khan, the numerous mosques,
the large warehouses and the well-built residences, holding a population of 270,000,
the bright picture having as its background the green slopes of the hills.

Smyrna is the centre of the caravan trade in Asia Minor; it is the great
market place for the whole Levant, and the merchants and traders who are
found on her streets represent every nation in the Orient.

Smyrna's Busy Scenes.

From my hotel window, that overlooks the busy scenes on the qua}', by their
costumes I distinguished representatives of seventeen different nationalities.
Their facial expressions and features, their modes of salutation, their manner of
talking, walking, laughing and quarreling, and their peculiar ways of attracting
and convincing customers, were indeed a rich study which was greatly enjoyed.

The fruit-seller, the fish-cryer, the trinket peddler, the vegetable cartman,
the man with cooling drinks, the flower and match girls, the curio vender of the
Orient and the pug-nosed, bow-legged dogs rub up against one another with a
degree of intimacy that is more than touching.

After all, what is more interesting and instructive than a quiet study of a
mass of human beings, with a few dogs thrown in, provided you are out of reach ?

There are five or six Smyrnas, one over the other, and some of the excava-
tions that have been made while digging the foundations of houses and
cultivating the neighboring fields go to prove that this city, so admirably located,
was, in the far past, a place of great commercial and political importance.

It claims to be the birthplace of Homer, and here the distinguished Bishop
Polycarp was martyred in the year A. D. 169, whose tomb is pointed out.

(382)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 383

The B^'zantine Castle is on the site of tne Acropolis, on Mons Pagus, and
has in it many remains. Its corner nearest the city is Cyclopean, and the further
walls were built by Eysander. .

The way to it leads past a cliff marked by three streaks of shells like flints,
and the road brings you past parts of aqueducts that were evidently built by the
Romans.

The antiquities of Smyrna are scattered, for the most part, two or three miles
apart on the site of the old Ionian town, where Homer is supposed to have been
born, up to Meles, in view of Mount Tmolus.

It was rebuilt in 627, B. C. , and half ruined by Tamerlane A. D. 1402.

The whole district is very rich in archaic remains. From Sm3ana, one of
the famous Seven Churches, five others are accessible by rail.

My chief concern in coming to Smyrna was to take a trip from here inland to
see the country and people of this part of Asia Minor and visit the ruins of the
ancient city of Ephesus, which are found about one mile from the modern village
of Ayasoluk, at the foot of Mount Prion.

The Ruins of Ephesus.

Ephesus was the old capital of Ionia or I^ydia, birthplace of Diana, a sacred
city of both Pagans and Christians and a capital of the Saracenic Sultans.

It was located in a fine plain at the head of Port Panormus, on a surface
raised by deposits of the Caystrus or Cayster, was founded B. C. 1040, half
swallowed up by an earthquake about A. D. 17, and has been mostly in ruins
since the year 527.

To the Christians at this place St. Paul addressed his ' ' Epistle to the Ephes-
ians," and the old fort is shown where it is said he was imprisoned.

The ruins, consisting chiefly of broken columns, crumbling walls and
fragments of pavements, are spread over a wide district, and after visiting them
one is prepared to give credence to the supposition that before the Christian era
more than a million people inhabited the place.

Pagan and Christian Records.

You are possessed by strange feelings when you attempt to realize that you
are at the Cyclopean city of the Amazons, the refuge of Latona, the home of
Apollo and Diana, the place of the metamorphosis of Syrinx into a reed, the
lurking place of Pan, the asylum of Apollo on Mount Soimissus, the deathplace of
Orion, the panionium under Mount Mycale, the great gymnasium, the odeum, the
aqueduct, the magnificent Ephesus Theatre, 600 feet in length, and the marvelous
temple of Diana "of the Ephesians " — one of the seven wonders of the worlds
built 552-352 B. C.

i3«4j

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 385

Some of the columns from the temple are now in the mosque of St. Sophia,
at Constantinople.

An English excavator in 1876 found the remains twelve to twent}' feet below
the surface to correspond with Pliny's account, the dimensions being 418 feet by
240 feet, with one hundred columns, 56 feet high and an elaborate cedar roof.

Other names connected with Ephesus are Bacchus, Homer, Croesus, Artemisia,
Queen of Caria; Julian, the Emperor, and Tamerlane.

The famous Council of Ephesus was held here in 431 A. D.

To the Bible student the most interesting fact is that the Apostle Paul spent

three years here and taught in the school of Tj^ranus, the supposed ruins of which

are pointed out.

Turkish Tyranny.

It is impossible for the citizens of free America, who have never visited the
Ottoman empire, to imagine the corruption of the Turkish government. From
the most subordinate officer to the Sultan himself this official rottenness is
traceable; and how the thing has held together so long is a wonder of wonders.

As this terrible state of affairs is supposed to be kept in secrecy from the
outside world, and a man's head is at stake if he is caught speaking or writing on
the subject while in these regions, I have found no little difficulty, although I have
had the aid of a discreet native interpreter, to reach the reliable facts that are now
in my possession.

In the shop, on the farm and within the humble family circle, through my

assistant, I have interviewed a number of the inhabitants of this cursed land, and

everywhere the same sad story of governmental injustice, dishonesty and oppression

is heard.

Official Rottenness.

Here the seed of patriotism is crushed, if it ever exists at all; here the young
Turk, it matters not how noble may be his ambition in commercial, civic or
military life, has no opportunit}' for its expansion; here the farmer is yearly and
systematically robbed b}^ the merciless agents of the government at Constantinople,
and here an official premium is put on any and every vice from which the Sultan
■can possibly receive a revenue.

In the light of these facts it is not a matter of surprise that every influence
from without that has a tendency to reveal or improve the condition of the country
is indignantly opposed by the government, and that the basest deception is perpe-
trated to mislead the nations of the civilized world.

Book and Press Censorship.

No publication is allowed in the country that is not first carefully examined
by agents of the Sultan. If a book is written, it matters not of what subject

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386

AROUND THE WORLD

it treats, the original manuscript must be sent to Constantinople, and is closely
read by a committee created for the purpose. Every word that is at all objection-
able is expunged. The revised manuscript is sent back after a copy is taken. At
the author's expense an edition of only two copies of the book is first published,
one of which is sent on to be compared with the copy which is retained, and if
there is the least variation the volume is not allowed to see the light of day.

Nothing can be published
which gives the people infor-
mation about the true gov-
ernment of the land, and no
word is printed about the do-
ings of other nations which
would have a tendency to give
rise to a comparison between
the wa}^ of doing things in the
Ottoman empire and else-
where.

When the president of the
French republic was assassi-
nated the order went out from
the Sultan that no such words
as corresponded to " assassi-
nate " or "murder" should
be used in the report of the
event, but it should be circu-
lated that the president died
of a lingering disease.

I was in a Sj^rian village
last week when the news of
the murder of the Shah of
Persia reached the place. A
Mohammedan at the head of
a printing establishment told
me that the same deception
would be perpetrated by the press of the country. The Sultan, knowing his own
unpopularity, is not willing that his people should be educated in the art of easily
getting rid of a hated ruler.

Administrative System.

The large cities are ruled by pashas; the towns have over them governors,
and the villages have sheiks. x

A TURKISH PASHA.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 387

A man receives and holds his appointment only because he pays for it more
money than any one else is willing or able to pa3\ The idea of efficiency does not
enter into the question at all.

A few weeks ago a man living near Damascus found out through a spj^ what
the governor of the place was paying to hold his office. He consulted with his
friends as to how much he could make out of the office, sent a higher offer to the
Sultan than the acting governor had made and was immediateh^ installed.

This principle, or rather lack of principle, holds in reference to every office
under the government. Everything is for revenue only.

Oppressive Taxation.

The tax collecting system is one of the most wretchedly unjust in the world.
The whole thing is farmed out to the highest bidder.

The one who gets the position of tax collector for a district must necessarily
pay the government an exorbitant price for the privilege; the money is, in
nearl}^ every case, borrowed to send in advance to Constantinople, and now, in
order to reimburse himself and make money, the collector goes to work on the
long-suffering citizens, and with the soldiers that are placed at his disposal the
most cruel extortion is enacted.

According to the written law (which is a snare and delusion) he is allowed
to collect one-tenth of the produce of a farm. On three farms I was shown how
eighty per cent of the whole crop went into the pockets of the collectors.

An old man, who owns an olive orchard, told me that he gave in a true report
of the 3-ield of his place as ten barrels of oil. The legal tax would have been one
barrel of the stuff", but the collector reported the ^-ield of the orchard as eighty
barrels of oil, taking one-tenth of this, leaving two barrels for the owner of the
orchard.

This instance may induce certain ward politicians in America to leave their
seemingly lucrative business and apply for a job under the gracious Sultan.

Justice with a Vengeance.

To illustrate how justice, so called, is administered, let me give a case in
point, the truth of which is vouched for by an American, who has lived in this
country for thirty-five j-ears, and who is personally acquainted with characters
involved. A wealthy man by the name of Aly made accusation against his enemy
Jacob, and swore in court that he owed him 100,000 francs. For about six p^ce
each he bribed two witnesses to testifs* for him. ^M

The accused was brought before the judge, and although he did not Jm| a
cent in the world he confessed judgment, but declared that his accuser o^^^^m
200,000 francs, and that he was waiting patiently for a settlement. .g^.. j

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Being asked to produce his witnesses, lie started out to secure them, when
Aly requested the judge to send a guard along to prevent him bribing men to
testify in his behalf. The chief of police was sent with him.

Jacob, after walking about for some time, slipped a Turkish pound in the
chief's hand; the head of the police took him to his ofQce, where two witnesses
were bribed for a few pennies; they returned to court, and, after secret consulta-
tion with the judge and testimony' of new-bought witnesses, judgment was given
in favor of Jacob, who paid the 100,000 francs that he didn't owe to Aly, and
collected the 200,000 francs that Aly did not owe him.

This, verily, is justice with a vengeance.

The City of the Sultan.

Constantinople, or Stambool, the city of the Sultan, is located on the western
shore of the Thracian Bosphorus, in a situation equally remarkable for beauty and
securit3\

A gently declining promontory, secured b}' narrow seas, at the southeast cor-
ner of Europe, stretches out to meet the continent of Asia, from which it is
separated by so narrow a strait, the Bosphorus, that in fifteen minutes j^ou can
row from one continent to the other.

This channel, running for about twenty miles from the Black Sea, looks like a
stately river until it sweeps by the angle of Constantinople and enters the Sea of
Marmora. But just before it is lost in that sea it makes a deep elbow between the
triangle of Constantinople proper and its foreign suburbs of Galata and Pera,
thus forming the port of the Golden Horn.

At this corner of Thrace the Megarian leader, Byzas, planted the city of
Bj^zantium about 660-70 B. C. It was taken by the Romans A. D. 73, and here
Constantine fixed the eastern seat of the Roman empire in 328-30, calling it Con-
stantinopolis, the citj^ of Constantine, of which the Orientals make Stambool, from
the Greek es tan poll, or * 'the cit)-." "Room," or Rome, is also a popular name
for it to this day, and the province in which it stands is Roumeli, which name
appears in Roumania.

Godfrey de Bouillon was here in the first crusade — 1096-97 — in the reign of
Alexius Commenus. It was taken by the Venetians and Franks, led by ' ' Blind
Old Dandolo," and held till 1261, during which period the Greek emperors
reigned at Nicsea and Trebizond. Their rule terminated with its capture by the
Turks in 1453, under Mahomet II., after fifty -three days' .siege.

Stambool, like its prototype, is said to have been built on seven hills, which
appear to rise above one another in beautiful succession, and was thirteen miles
in circumference. It is of great interest to study the many decaying and neglected
remains of Roman and mediaeval times which it contains.

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Life and Scenes.

m

The ridge of the first hill is occupied by the Seraglio, behind which a little
on the reverse of the hill the imposing dome of the Santa Sophia can be seen.
This was the site of the first city of Byzantium.

Four of the hills are covered with magnificent mosques, whose domes are
strikingly bold and lofty.

The city proper, occupying the triangle between the Golden Horn and the

Sea of Marmora, is partly sur-
rounded by the remains of
decaying walls, which are fast
disappearing.

Galata, founded by the
Genoese in 1216, on the north
side of the Golden Horn, is
joined to the main city by
an iron bridge, and is the
chief business quarter for
European merchants, who,
strangely enough, go under
the general name of Franks.

A steep street leads up to
Pera, which stretches two
miles along a hill, and is the
residence of diplomatic corps
from the different nations of
Europe, where each has a fine
palace. The tremendous con-
flagration of 1870 swept awa}^ a
great part of Pera, destroying
6000 houses, including the
British embassy.

The Town of Scutari.

TURKISH WOMAN.

Scutari is a mile and a
half across the Bosphorus from Galata, and is mostly inhabited by Turks, Greeks
and Armenians. Here are located the Sultan Selim barracks, used as the English
military hospital during the Crimean war, and which are specially noted as the
scene of Miss Nightingale's heroic and memorable labors. In the adjacent ceme-
tery are buried 8000 English soldiers, victims of that terrible struggle.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

391

From the hill of Bulgaria, overlooking the column of Marochetti in the
■military cemeterN', a splendid panorama of Constantinople is had, taking in the
Black Sea, Therapia and Buyukdere on the Bosphorus, the castles of Europe and
Asia, near the water, and the Golden Horn. On this hill, where ancient Chryso-
polis was located, Constantine defeated his enemy and rival, Licinius, A. D. 325,
and not far from this place of victory the great conqueror was conquered by his
last enemy.

On entering the city the visitor is first attracted by the wilderness of mosques
and minarets. Within the walls there are sixteen imperial mosques, 150 ordinary

THE sultan's palace of DOLMA-BAGTCHE, CONSTANTINOPLE.

ones and 200 mesjids, the last of which are only distinguished as being places of
worship by having little minarets or towers contiguous to them.

The Mosque of St. Sophia.

I shall speak of onlj- one of these mosques, which is the most wonderful
building of its kind in the world. St. Sophia was dedicated A. D. 360 to Agia
Sophia, " Holy Wisdom," b}' Constantine II., the son of Constantine the Great,
and was rebuilt by Justinian, 532-48, in the shape of a Greek cross.

Among the numerous pillars brought from all parts of the empire are some
from Delos and Baalbec; six of green jasper from the Temple of Diana at
Ephesus, and eight of porphyry, which had been placed by Aureliau in the
Temple of the Sun at Rome and were removed here by Constantine.

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AROUND THE WORI.D

It is an immense marble basilica, 270 by 245 feet, with sixteen bronze gates,
and a stupendous dome, 115 feet across, adorned v/ith mosaic work. It is illumi-

PEASANT VII,IvAGE GIRI.S OF ROUMANIA.

nated with globes of crj-stal and lamps of colored glass at the Ramadan, and
ornamented with ostrich eggs and flags.

On Fridays you can count the' worshipers b}- the thousands, and from the

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 393

great galleries you are allowed to watch the congregation of believers at prayers,
with their faces turned toward Mecca.

Every mosque has, in general, a large area in front, surrounded by a lofty
colonnade of marble, with gates of wrought brass, and in the centre a fountain of
polished marble.

Curious Sepulchral Chapels.

Adjoining each is the sepulchral chapel of its founder. Some of these tombs,
in which the sultans, viziers and other great personages repose, are exceedingly
handsome; others in their w^orkmanship, defy all laws of art and display a
decided genius on the part of the builders for making what is supposed to be very
solemn exceedingly laughable.

Looking through the grated windows you see the coffins, surmounted by
shawls and turbans, and slightly elevated from the floor, with lamps continually
burning and immense wax torches, which are lighted on particular occasions.

The slender and graceful minarets form one of the pleasing features in the
architecture of Constantinople, and two, four or even six of these are connected
with some of the mosques. Near the summit there is a little gallery, from which,
at the five appointed times in the twenty-four hours, the Muezzin calls the
Mohammedans to pra3-er.

A fountain, with its marble front, elaborate arabesque ornaments and Chinese-
like roof, stands by every mosque, for before a Turk prostrates himself in prayer
he must perform hrs ablutions. The supply- for these man}- fountains in the city
is brought from artificial lakes in the forest, about twelve miles from the city, by
means of subterranean aqueducts and hydraulic pyramids, contrived so as to
overcome the inequalities of surface.

The Bazaars and Their Crowds.

The bazaars, where you see the people acting naturalh% are much more inter-
esting than the mosques. The former consist of loft}^ cloisters or corridors, built
of stone and lighted by domes, which, during the hot hours of the daj^ afford a
pleasant retreat.

The Grand Bazaar, called Bezesteen, is a hive of small shops walled in with
thirty-two gates, and here, as nowhere else in Constantinople or perhaps in the
world (with the exception of Cairo), can you see displayed the brilliant, ever-
changing picture of oriental life to such perfection.

A world in miniature is continually moving to and fro. In the bewildering
multitude of nationalities you get a glimpse at the Albanian, with his tasseled
cap, white, short skirts, flashing scarf, buckskin leggings and bright rosettes on
his toes; the swaggering Turk, looking little like he was a member of a corrupt

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WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

395

and bankrupt nation, with his turban and flowing robes, or puffing a cigarette
under a jockey red fez and over ill-fitting European vest and trousers; comical-
locking w'omen, waddling along in formless sacks for dresses, their faces hidden
lest some one should be stricken by their bashful loveliness, and an army of
soldiers, beggars, priests, patriarchs — each one a drop in the rushing, rolling,
rumbling stream of humanit)-.

It matters little how interesting may be the palatial residences and busy
streets of a great city, wdien the brain is tired reflecting upon the manners and
methods of man, it is joN'ful and restful to hie away from these scenes, and find
repose in some rural place, at the foot of a noble mountain or by the side of a
leaping, laughing, limpid stream, or on the banks of a beautiful ba}-.

Taking a steamer across the Bosphorus (so called after lo, who swam over it
in the shape of a heifer), you soon reach a prettj- spot beyond a little village on
the Asiatic side at the bend of the w^ater. Here you have at once the mountain,
the brooklet and the bay. From the summit of the Giant's Hill there is a strik-
ing view of the shores of several seas and the nearby united lands of two conti-
nents.

As this picturesque panorama spread before him the poetic soul of Byron
went forth in the exclamation: " 'Tis a grand sight, from off the Giant's Grave,
to watch the progress of those rolling seas, between the Bosphorus, as they lash
and lave Europe and x\sia. ' '

ARMENIAN FUGITIVES ON THE TURKO-PERSIAN BORDER.

CHAPTER XXI.
A REIGN OF TERROR.

despair of being able to give any adequate impression of the ter-
rible condition of affairs in Armenia.

One must be on Turkish soil and hear for himself the heart-
rending tales of torture and torment to have any just conception
of the scenes that have been enacted, and the fearful ordeal through
which hundreds of thousands of Armenians are now passing.

It is now openly confessed by certain Mohammedans that the systematic
massacres that went on from village to village was simply the prosecution of a plan
well understood by the Turks to exterminate all native Christians in Armenia, and
it is generally believed that the Sultan ordered these massacres, those who led the
bloodthirsty business being under his appointment.

I went as near the town of Oorfa as I was allowed to go, and from the most
reliable sources I have positive proof of Ottoman persecutions more dia-
bolical than any reports that have come to us through the American or English

press.

The Massacre at Oorfa.

So far as magnitude is concerned Oorfa heads the list with fully 3500 victims
in the last massacre alone. The number sacrified in the great church, where they
had fled for safety, is now ascertained to be about 4000, and in the streets and
suburbs of the village nearly the same number of bodies were found cut and
mangled most terribly.

It is evident that if special honorable recognition by his Majesty the Imperial
Sultan is to be bestowed upon those of his loyal warriors who have carried out the
task assigned them on the grandest and the most satanic scale, his Oorfa legion
will come in for the highest awards.

A private letter from a missionary who is at present in Oorfa, that is before
me as I write, explains what has hitherto been a mere conjecture — namely, as to
how the Turkish soldiers succeeded in burning these 4000 victims in the church.

This missionary, who has made careful investigation on the spot, explains
that a gallery extends around three sides of this church, and from here a great
quantity of petroleum was poured upon these defenceless men, women and
children, who were jammed together on the floor below.

(396)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

397

Numbers of them had been butchered before this was done, and the fifty or
sixt}^ who escaped to the roof were overtaken and tossed into the flames.

It seems that after the petroleum had been poured down upon them from the
galleries, lighted torches were thrown among them. Is it possible to conceive of
anything more diabolical ?

Among those who thus perished were aged men and women, mothers with
babies at their breasts, ill persons just taken from their beds and hundreds of boys
and girls.

The church building where this occurred, which has been used for many years
as a place of worship by the Armenians, has been converted by these murderous

RECENTI.Y MADE ARMENIAN CRAVES IN THE SUBURB OF VAN.

Turks into a Mohammedan mosque, where prayers are now daily offered to the
prophet Mahomet.

The Victims at Biredjik.

The massacre at Biredjik, only a few miles from Oorfa, is hardly less
revolting. The facts below are given by a Christian citizen of the place, whicli
were received by me last night.

The Christian population of Biredjik consisted of about two hundred houses.
For some months the Christians had been kept almost wholly within their houses
from fear. ,

398 AROUND THE WORLD

One morning, about two hours after sunrise, a massacre began without any-
apparent cause and continued until far into the night. The Turkish soldiers and
Mohammedans in the city generall}' participated in it.

At first the principal object seemed to be plunder, but later on the soldiers
undertook the work of systematic killing, and profession of Islam or death was
the alternative of all those who named the name of Christ.

Many of the victims were dragged to the river Euphrates, and with stones
tied to them, were drowned. In some cases several bodies were found tied
together and thus thrown into the river.

One 3'oung man was caught, a rope put around his neck, and while he was
being dragged to the Euphrates he succeeded in freeing himself three times, but
finally, after being tortured in a nameless manner, he was overpowered, and amid
the shouts of the demons he was tossed into his watery grave.

Islam or the Sword.

Every house belonging to a Christian in the village was plundered, except
two, which were saved by Moslem neighbors, wdio claimed them as their property.

Christian girls were eagerly sought after, and much dispute and quarreling
occurred in dividing them among the captors. If they refused immediately to
marry 5'oung men of the Mohammedan faith they were tortured into obedience or
cast into harems.

There is not a single Christian remaining in Biredjik. Scores of men and
women were brought forward, offered protection if they w^ould embrace the Islam
religion, and those who refused (and nearly all of them did refuse) were put to
death after lingering persecution.

As the Turks doubted the sincerity of the new converts they arranged a new
massacre, which was only averted by the new converts promising to change the
Armenian churches into mosques.

They are now at work making the required alterations in the buildings. The
Protestant church will be turned into a Moslem schoolhouse if the missionaries do
not claim it as Armenian property.

The misery and suffering among the plundered cannot be described.

Lady Teachers Captured.

The wife (a recent graduate of the American Girls' College at Marash) and
child of the Protestant preacher (who is imprisoned at Oorfa) and two young lady
teachers, with some twenty other persons, hid themselves in a cave, but were
discovered and seized by the Turkish mob. All the men and boys were killed
and the women and children carried off to the Moslem houses.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

399

The women were dragged by the hair and badly beaten, but being unable to
compel them even in this way to go with them, the Turks carried them on their
J)acks.

They tried to kill the babe of the pastor's wife, but she pressed it so closely

MOHAMMEDAN WOMEN.

to her bosom that at last they desisted, as they feared she would be harmed, and
she was wanted for their harem. For more than three weeks every effort was made,
including threats of death, to make these three women (the pastor's wife and

400 AROUND THE WORIvD

the two lad}^ teachers of the mission) to profess Islam, but they steadfastl}^
refused. Wedding preparations were being made for these women, who were to
be forced to marry Mohammedans, when the district governor received an order
from Aleppo commanding them to be sent, under guard, to the missionaries in
Aintab, which changed their fate.

Distress and Work of Relief.

The news from Marash was of the most distressing nature. Nearly ten
thousand were receiving daily help from the missionaries, and there was every
indication at that time this number must be greatly increased in the near future
if the funds at the disposal of the missionaries permitted of it.

One who was appointed to visit the district and distribute funds, referring to
the condition of affairs, exclaimed: " This region has been one vast flaming hell."

In Van between 15,000 and 20,000 are dependent upon the relief work that is
carried on through the agency of the missionaries.

A letter from there, that is lying, before me, says: " I am sure that all who
have interested themselves in raising funds would feel abundantly repaid for their
trouble and self-sacrifice if they could see the misery their money is relieving.
We are at present spending at the rate of a thousand dollars per week, and I am
confident that another thousand could be spent in the same way of relieving only
the most distressing need, and that, too, in a meagre enough fashion.

" Hundreds of refugees are living in cold, damp places on earth floors, with
absolutely no bedding, very little, in some cases, no fuel, and with nothing to eat
save the dry bread we gave them,

" Since last winter the bazaars have been closed, hence everybody in the city
is out of employment, while life in the villages is, for the most part, well nigh or
absolutely impossible. ' '

The Turkish officials watched carefully every effort to distribute money and
provisions among these wretched victims of their cruelty, and they have been
known repeatedly to force the widows and orphans of those whom they murdered
to give up funds that came to them to provide against starvation.

Who Are the Armenians?

If we accept Armenian histories, the first ruler of the Armenians was Haik,
the son of Togarmah, the son of Gomer, the son of Japheth, the son of Noah,
and it is interesting to note that they, even to this day, call themselves Haik,
their language " Haiaren " and their country " Haiasdan."

The word ' ' Armenian ' ' was given them by other nations because of the
bravery of one of their kings, Aram, the seventh ruler from Haik.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

401

Until A. D. 1375 they were a proud and independent nation, but since the
latter quarter of the fourteenth century their country has been under the govern-
ments of Russia, Persia, and during the most of the time, under Turkey.

During the period from 600 B. C. to nearly 400 A. D., the time of their
greatest advancement, they showed remarkable prowess in the wars of the
Assyrians, Medes, Persians, Greeks and Romans.

From the incomplete government returns it is estimated that, at present,
there are between two and a half and three millions of Armenians in Turkey, and
these are everywhere surrounded by Turks and Kurds, many of whom are armed

ARMENIAN SCHOOI..

by the government, while the Armenians are forbidden to carry or possess arms
under the severest penalties.

Their Religion and Clergy.

In the third century, under the influence of Gregory the Illuminator, the
Armenians as a nation became Christian, and this was the first time in the history
of the world that Christianity was adopted as a national religion.

By the outsiders their church was then called "Gregorian," and afterward
the Gregorians and Greeks worked in a fraternal spirit in the great councils of the
church until 451, but at the fourth Ecumenical Council, which met at Chalcedon
26

402 AROUND THE WORLD

that year, the Gregorian Church separated from the Greek upon the Monophysite
doctrine, the former accepting and the latter rejecting it.

There are nine grades of Armenian clerg\-. The spiritual headisa Catholicos,
but in addition to him there is a patriarch, whose duties have largely to do with
the political side of the national life as related to the Ottoman government.

In the fifth century the Bible was translated into their language; but the book
has largel}^ been a sealed one so far as the people are concerned.

For more than a thousand years the Armenians have been subject to the
bitterest persecutions, and during these centuries they have willingly chosen
death, with terrible torture, rather than prove false to their faith.

Culture and Education.

As is pointed out by a recent writer, and generally admitted to be true, the
strong tendency to disagree among themselves has greatly weakened their national
character, and the wily Turks have repeatedly taken advantage of their suspicions
of each other and their internal rivalries by playing one party off against
another. There can be no question but that the Armenians are the most intelligent
of all the people of Eastern Turkey, and in Western Turkey their only rivals are
the Greeks. For more than a score of years Armenian young men have attained
high scholarship in the universities of Europe and America, and the eager desire
among the people for a liberal education is very marked.

It is worthy of note, especially in this part of the world, that this people give
special encouragement to female education, and it was my pleasure to address a
college of two hundred and fifty Armenian girls in Smyrna, where there was every
indication of culture and refinement.

Traders and Farmers.

The Armenian is the trader and banker of this part of the world. The
Mohammedan is no match for him, and this is where the rub lies.

An impartial judge, who is neither a Christian nor a Mohammedan, informed
me in an interview yesterday that if you put five Armenian shopkeepers and ten
Mohammedan shopkeepers on the same street, in a short while, provided both are
granted the same privileges, the former will control the whole business from one
end of the street to the other.

Although the Turkish government has imposed upon them the most unjust
laws and excessive taxes, they have kept well to the front, and until these perse-
cutions and massacres commenced some of the leading business operations of the
country were in their hands.

They are also the leading artisans and farmers. I have the statement from a
reliable source that twenty-five years ago in certain large sections the laud was

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

403

owned almost entirely by Moslems, but rented and farmed by the Armenians, but
lack of industry on the part of the Mohammedans have led them to sell many of
their large estates to the Armenians, many of whom became proprietor farmers.

A Turkish governor is quoted as saying that if the Armenians should
suddenly emigrate or be expelled from Eastern Turkey the Moslem would
necessarily follow soon, as there was not enough commercial enterprise and

ability coupled with industry
in the Turkish population to
meet the absolute needs of the
people.

Home and Family.

While at one time in their
history they gained distinc-
tion as warriors, they seem at
present to be domestic in their
thought and habits, and, ap-
parently, they are possessed
with little military ambition
or desire to rule.

I have had the privilege
of seeing something of their
home life, and seldom have I
seen sweeter pictures of do-
mestic life than were wit-
nessed in their quiet family
circles.

The home life is patri-
archal, the father ruling the

household as long as he lives, and at his death the eldest son takes his place at

the head of the family.

Children have the highest respect for their parents, sons and daughters never

become too old to seek the counsel and obey the word of fathers and mothers, and

special respect is given to the aged.

An Unmixed Race.

In the eloquent words of another, here we have a race old in national history
when Alexander invaded the East, and with its star of empire turning toward
decline when the Caesars were at the height of their power; a nation not mingling
in marriage with men and women of another faith and blood, now as pure in its

TURKISH SOCIETY WOMAN.

404 AROUND THE WORLD

descent from the undiscovered ancestors of nearly three decades of centuries ago
as the Hebrews stand unmixed with Gentile blood; with a language, a literature,
a national church distinctively its own, and yet a nation without a country, without
a government, without a protector or friend in all God's world.

This is not because it has sinned, but because it has been terribly sinned
against; not because of its intellectual or moral or physical weakness, but because
it has little to offer in return for the service which the common brotherhood of man
among nations should prompt the Christian nations of the world to render.

In all of her varied historj' I suppose that the sky over the national life of
Armenia was never as starless as it is to-day. The great powers on the European
continent turn deaf ears to her cries, some of them apparently giving indirect
endorsement to the rotten rule, satanic cruelty and murderous madness of the
Moslem Sultan; and if substantial aid is rendered in putting bread in the mouths
of these widowed, orphaned and plundered thousands, and in creating a world-
wide sentiment in their favor, it must come from that country which is to-day the
hope of the world and the inspiration of mankind— generous , liberty-loving
America.

Armenia's Plight.

In view of the widespread sympathy that is now being manifested in both
England and America for this practically enslaved and downtrodden race in the
overwhelming calamities that have so recently' befallen them, it may be reasonably
supposed that the governments and peoples of these two countries are inter-
ested in the asking and answering of the question, " What is to become of the
Armenians ? ' '

Whether we regard this question as referring to a choice between Islam and
the sword on the one hand, or to a choice between a continued struggle for exist-
ence under Moslem oppression and extortion, with the constant additional dread
of torture and massacre and complete emancipation in some form or the other,
it is a question which forces itself upon the Christian world to-day for solution.
If we are to judge by the attitude of the great powers of Christendom toward
the Armenians in their indescribable sufferings during the past months, England
and America are the only two nations that choose to concern themselves with the
present or ultimate fate of these people. It is for this reason that the arms of the
Armenians are to-day outstretched toward Anglo-Saxon Christendom for help
and deliverance.

Attitude of the Powers.

To those who know the situation as it stands here to-day in Asiatic Turkey
the future holds not a single ray of hope for any permanent betterment of condi-
tion of the Armenians so long as the Ottoman empire holds together, and the

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

405

apparent determination of the European powers that it shall not go to pieces so
long as they can agree together to bolster it up, leaves but little prospect of relief
from that source. The utter inability of these same powers to afford them any
protection while they remain subjects of the Turkish government, and scattered
as they are to-day in every corner of the empire, has been so painfully demon-
strated during the past months that no hope of help or protection can ever be
reasonably expected in the future from Christian Europe. It has also been just

A GROUP OF ARMENIAN ORPHAN BOYS OF C^SAREA AND TABAS.

as fully demonstrated that some, at least, of the European governments are abso-
lutely determined that no part or parcel of the empire shall be assigned to them
where they would enjoy any measure of independence or opportunity to work out
their own legitimate destiny. In a word, it has now become not only perfectly
evident that the Sultan is to be allowed to work out his own will toward his
Armenian subjects with impunity, so far, at least, as European interference is
concerned, but it is also equally evident that it is the will of his Majesty to give

4o6 AROUND THE WORLD

them over to every form of cruel oppression and diabolical torture and outrage
which his fanatical and inhuman followers may choose to devise and inflict upon
them. This, then, is the answer to our question, ' ' What is to become of the
Armenians?" so long, at least, as they remain the subjects of his Imperial
Majesty Abdul Hamid IL The histor}^ of the past is to be the history
of the future. The onlj- possible hope of even temporary amelioration is that
which a change of rulers might bring. But even a change of rulers or a change
to a more responsible form of government will not alter the attitude and spirit of
Islam toward a subject Christian race.

" Christian Herald " Work.

The noble and extensive relief w^ork which has been carried on with the funds-
sent from England and America prevented much suffering and saved mau}^ lives.
Through the activity of Dr. Klopsch, proprietor of the Christian Herald, a great
Relief Depot was established at Van under Dr. Grace Kimball, American Mis-
sionar}^; and there is at present in Oorfa a large number of Armenian orphans,
under Miss Corinna Shattuck, supported by Christian Herald contributions. No
less than $60,000 has been raised by Dr. Klopsch through his journal from sympa-
thetic American readers for this persecuted people, which was distributed by
American missionaries at seventeen different stations.

A Colonization Scheme.

Every instinct of true manliness and Christian sympathy rises against the
thought of abandoning the Armenians to the inevitable fate that awaits them as
subjects of the Turkish empire. God has other and higher purposes for them to
serve as benefactors of our race, and shall we not seek to open to them the oppor-
tunities which will afford them deliverance from their present bondage and scope
for enlarged activity and usefulness ?

The very suggestion of colonization raises at once a number of questions of
primary and essential significance, and among these: Colonize where ? Do they
wish to emigrate ? Will the Turkish authorities permit them to leave the country ?
Would such a scheme be practicable ? Do they possess the qualities essential to
successful colonization, such as the power of adaptation to new surroundings and
conditions ? Are they desirable neighbors ? etc. , etc. In the space of the present
chapter it will not be possible to discuss each of these questions separately and in
detail. In answer to the question, "Where?" I answer unhesitatingly, to the
United States and Canada. In view of the sympathy shown by the American and
English governments and the generous response of the people of these two nations
to the appeals for relief, it may be taken for granted that every facility would be
ofifered for colonizing portions of the western territories and provinces of the

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 407

United States and Canada with these people, and that they would receive welcome
to our hospitable shores.

' ' Do they wish to emigrate ? ' ' Eet the thousands who have been imprisoned
for attempting to emigrate answer this question.

Will the Sultan AUow It ?

"Will the Turkish government permit them to leave the country?"
Although the Turkish government has persisted in representing the Armenians
as the only disturbing element to the peace and prosperity of the empire, and as
being the constant objects of Turkish pity, compassion and toleration, it is a
strange fact that laws have been made prohibiting them, on pain of severe
penalties, from leaving the country. These laws for some years past have been
rigorously enforced, though in spite of this some have escaped from this forced
imprisonment b}^ bribing port ofiicials. Now, however, I learn the government
has suddenly adopted a different policy and is readily giving passports to
Armenians wdio wish to emigrate. This fact would much facilitate any scheme for
colonization which might now be undertaken. Even should the government again
attempt to prevent the emigration of the Armenians surely even those powers
which are most fearful of disturbing the status quo of the ' ' Eastern Question ' '
could be trusted at least to use their authority to compel the Sultan to refrain from
an attempt to prevent any scheme for the emigration and colonizing of the
Armenians.

Would It Be Practicable ?

Would a scheme for colonization be practicable ? Of course, in the present
impoverished state of a large portion of the Armenians in the interior provinces,
any scheme for successful colonization would require the sanction and at least
partial support of the American and British governments. The people of these
two countries could also be trusted to respond promptly and generously to an
appeal to carry out anj^ such scheme of practical and permanent relief for those
they are now supplying with dail}^ bread and raiment. Government grants of land
or special facilities for easy purchase would of necessit}' become a factor in any
such scheme. A very large proportion, however, of Armenians would undertake
to emigrate on their own charges and would at once form a self-dependent element
in each colony or community. I have every confidence in the practicability of
colonization if taken up in an earnest, determined spirit.

But it maybe asked, Would the Armenians make good colonists and are they
desirable neighbors ? English and American missionaries and others who have
lived among the Armenians and who have had the best of facilities for studying their
national characteristics are accustomed to designate them the ' 'Anglo-Saxons ' ' or

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*' Yankees" of the Orient. It is unquestionable that thej^ possess some of the
characteristics which distinguish the Anglo-Saxon race. They are a hardy,
energetic, intelligent and progressive people, and with the favorable environment
of our free Western institutions and civilization, and under the authority of
capable and responsible governments, they would unquestionably become an
important and stable factor in our Western life and progress. They are a peaceful,
law-abiding race, devoted to agricultural and commercial pursuits. They possess

also the faculty of becoming skilled
artisans, and are both capable and
eager for intellectual advancement.
They wish to live at peace with their
neighbors and would most assuredly
prove themselves not only good neigh-
bors, but also loyal, devoted citizens
of our responsible governments.

Going to Cyprus.

An effort is now being quietly put
forward by certain influential English-
men to transport the thousands of
widows and orphans in Armenia to the
Island of Cyprus, where they would be
granted land and helped to at least
partly support themselves. Difficulties
that were expected have arisen, but
these are supposed not to be insur-
mountable. Hundreds of men have
secretly escaped the country, but the
shores are all patroled; no Armenian
is allowed to go from one village to
another without giving a full account
of his movements and without secur-
ing bond for his return in a certain number of days; every road in Armenia is
guarded by brutal Turkish soldiers, who shoot down Armenians on the least pre-
text; and we may depend upon it that this wretched state of affairs will continue
to exist until some strong national voice is raised, and, if necessary, some strong
national arm is stretched forward in defence of a down-trodden race that has on
its neck an iron heel and over its prostrate body the flashing sword of a heartless
tyrant.

AN ARMENIAN HOME.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 4.09

nissions in Turkey.

It is generally thought in these parts that the conduct of the Turkish
government in regard to the American missionaries is an attempt to see how
Europe ^YOuld regard any measure taken for the expulsion of Christian mission-
aries generally. The result can hardly be satisfactory to the Turk.

The Roman Catholic missionaries are full}' alive to the meaning of the
experiment and the activity of Monsieur Cambon shows that France intends to
claim the full rights of French citizens, whether clericals or not.

For many months an attempt was made to distinguish in the massacres
between the Armenians of the national church and the Catholic Armenians, that
is, those who are in union with Rome, but this distinction could not be observed
in Armenia itself. A Moslem ruffian at Trebizond exclaimed: " Are they not
all Giaours (infidels) alike ? " And no satisfactory answer could be given him.

Foreign flission Work.

This attempted distinction did not deceive the foreign Catholic missionaries,
and their silence was not to be purchased bj^ securing the safety of their own
flocks. In man}- places they have done their best for the Christian population,
whether they were in communion directly with Rome or not.

It must not be forgotten that the Christian population of Asia Minor and
Syria had sunk into a condition of ignorance which is not remarkable, in view of
the repeated and periodical massacres and plundering.

It is quite true that the Mekitarist congregations of Armenians in Vienna and
Venice, established by men who escaped from Turkey, have accomplished a noble
work, which has called forth congratulatory words from both Mr. Gladstone and
Mr. Ruskin. But it has mainly been for the education of Armenian priests and
did not affect the mass of the laity.

The American Board of Missions, some fifty or sixt}' years ago, set itself to
remove this ignorance. As America could not possibly have any political ends
to serve b}' sending missionaries into the country, there seems to have come about
an understanding and arrangement with English and German missionary
societies by which it was agreed that the Turkish mission field should be left
almost exclusively to Americans.

American Institutions.

Whatever might be said of England, no one would believe that America
coveted an inch of Turkish territor>^ American missionaries, as every one
admits, have worked solely for philanthropic, educational and religious ends.

The American missions have colleges at Kharpoot, Marsovan, Beyrout and
Aintab. They have splendid colleges for girls at Smyrna, Scutari — on the

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Bosphorus — and in Stambool. They have hospitals at Aintab, Mardin and
Csesarea. The}' have boys' and girls' schools at such centres as Broussa, Adana,
Trebizond, Sivas, Mosul, Van and other places, and until a few years ago
wherever an educated Armenian was met he had in all likelihood been educated
at one of these missionary schools.

Robert College.

I spent a pleasant evening at Robert College, nine miles from Constantinople,

■on the Bosphorus.

This college was founded thirty-three years ago by Mr. Robert, a New York

merchant, and is to-day one
of the greatest powers for good
in all Asia Minor.

It owns magnificent prop-
erty under imperial charter;
has all the equipments of a
well-furnished American col-
lege; has in its classes 350 boys
and young men from different
portions of Turkey, Syria,
Palestine, Bulgaria, Roumelia
and Greece, and its distin-
guished American president,
Dr. Washburn, and his as-
sistants are doing much for the
rising generation of this part
of the world.

Some years ago a good
deal of opposition was encoun-
tered by the missionaries, on
the ground that their object

was to establish rival churches and to obtain proselytes from the Armenian

Church. Such opposition has long since been overcome by the sturdy common

sense of the missionaries.

Light for Asia.

One hundred and fifty American missionaries, many of whom are highly
educated, are now centers of light throughout Asia Minor and Syria; their
influence would do honor to any civilized government and they are everywhere
respected and trusted by the population, Turkish as well as Christian, and by the
foreign consuls of every part of Asia.

DECORATED BY THE SULTAN.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 411

Many of these are qualified medical men, and the value of their medical
ser^'ices meets with unbounded appreciation in districts where no doctors are to be
found.

Although they take no part in politics, their instincts are, of course, against
anything in the nature of rebellion, and so careful are they not to become com-
plicated in the present political condition of affairs that ISIr. Greene had to abandon
all connection with the mission board before he published his volume of evidence
on the Armenian wrongs.

Taking in consideration these facts it may be asked: " Wh}^ should the
Turkish government wish to get rid of missionaries, Protestant and Catholic
alike? '"

No Conversions Possible.

There is no question of converting Mohammedans to any form of Christian
faith, for the penalt}' of such conversion is immediate death, and neither Cath-
olics nor Protestants make any efforts in this direction.

The reason must be sought in another direction.

The influence of the missions and missionaries have a tendency to elevate
the tone of morality among the various Christian populations, and the education
they have given has enabled thousands to become comparatively prosperous.

As in the case of Bulgaria, a score of years ago, the prosperity' of the Chris-
tian portion of the community aroused the envy of those who belonged to the
ruling class and creed, so instinctively, the Turk recognizes that the education
given by these foreign ' ' infidels' ' places the Christians at an advantage in trade
and even in agriculture.

There are, indeed, a number of cases, both in the provinces and in the capital,
where boys and girls have secretly been sent b}- their Moslem parents to mission
schools to obtain secular education, but this is alwa5's attended by grave dangers,
and just now Mohammedan authorities are more watchful than ever.

It is also felt and admitted b\' the agents of the Sultan's government that
these missions, with their schools and colleges, their hospitals, their medical men
and trained nurses, are the symbols of the advance of a civilization along western
lines, and as progress in this direction is the sure death-knell to the corruption
and tyranny of ^Mohammedanism, the thought of it is the waving of a blood-red
flag before the bellowing Turkish bull.

Keeping in mind these facts we can easily trace the cause for the recent out-
break against Christian missions.

Protestant and Catholic missionaries have been largely instrumental in turn-
ing the lights upon the sad events in Armenia during these latter months.
Newspaper correspondents could be forbidden to travel in the interior; the letters

412

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of Armenians and other Turkish subjects could be ostentatiously examined and
their writers imprisoned, but these foreign missionaries could not be prevented
from telling the truth.

M. Cambon's notification to the Grand Vizier that if any French citizens at
Sivas were injured he would require the head of the Vali, shows how far France
was prepared to protect her missionaries.

A XVPICAL TURKISH DWEtUNG OF THE POORER CI,ASS.

As these and the American missionaries know more of the Armenian massa-
cres than any other bodies of persons, and as they were active in the distribu-
tion of relief among the survivors of the massacres, there is not a very sweet
taste in the mouth of the man who sits upon the Ottoman throne.

The Hassacres of the Armenians.

Certain persons in Europe and America have ascribed the dreadful massacres
which have taken place in Asia Minor to sudden and spontaneous outbreaks of
Moslem fanaticism. The truth is that th^se outbursts, while sudden, have taken

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 413

place according to a deliberate and preconcerted plan. According to the state-
ments of many persons, French, English, Canadian, American and native —
persons trustworthy and intelligent, who were in the places where the massacres
occurred, and some of whom were witnesses of the horrible scenes — the massacres
were strictly limited with regard to place, time, nationality of the victims, and
generally with regard to the method of killing and pillaging. The following
facts have been received from one who does not desire his name to be used:

With Regard to Place.

With only a few exceptions of consequence, the massacres have been confined
to the territory of the six provinces where reforms were to be instituted. When
a band of mounted Kurdish and Circassian raiders, estimated at from one to three
thousand, approached the boundary line between the provinces of Sivas and
Angora, they were met and turned back by the local authorities and certain
influential Mussulmans of the latter province, who told the raiders that they had
no authority to pass beyond the province of Sivas. The only places where out-
rages occurred outside of the six provinces w^ere, first, in the flourishing sea-
board city of Trebizond; secondly, in Marash, Aintab and Oorfa, and in these
places Moslem fanaticism was specially stirred by the success of the Armenian
mountaineers of Zeitun in defending themselves against their oppressors, and in
capturing a small Turkish garrison; and, finally in Caesarea; and here, as in the
places just mentioned, the Moslems were excited by the nearness of the scenes of
massacre, and by the reports of the plunder which other Moslems were securing.

With Regard to Time.

The massacre in Trebizond occurred just before the Sultan, after months of
every kind of opposition, was at last compelled by England, France and Russia to
consent to the scheme of reforms, as if to warn the powers of Europe that, in case
they persisted, the mine was already laid for the destruction of the Armenians.
In fact, the massacre of the Armenians is Turkey's real reply to the demands of
Europe. From Trebizond the wave of murder and robbery swept on through
almost every city and town and village in the six provinces where relief was
promised to the Armenians. When the news of the first massacre reached Con-
stantinople, a high Turkish official remarked to one of the Ambassadors that
massacre was like the small-pox — they must all have it, but they wouldn't need
to have it the second time; thus quietly, if not maliciously, hinting at what was to
be expected. Even the Sultan, when striving to avoid assent to the scheme of
reforms, told the Ambassadors, by way of intimidation, that troubles might ensue,
and the event shows that he knew whereof he spoke.

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The Nationality of the Victims.

These were almost exclusively Armenians. In Trebizond there is a large
Greek population, but neither there nor elsewhere, with possibly one or two
exceptions, have the Greeks been molested. Special care has also been taken to
avoid injury to the subjects of foreign nations, with the idea of escaping foreign.

AN ANCIENT EASTERN CHURCH, NOW DESECRATED.

complications and the payment of indemnities. In Marash three school buildings
belonging to the American Mission were looted and one building was burned, but
the houses and the Girls' College occupied by Americans were not touched. In
Karpoot the school buildings and houses belonging to the American Mission were
plundered, and eight buildings were burned; but none of the Americans were hurt,
though shots were fired at two of them. In this place and in Marash, had the
fanatical Moslems not been restrained by special orders, they would probably have

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 415

killed the Americans since they regarded the Americans in those centres of
educational and religious work as the chief agents in enlightening and elevating
those whom they wished to keep as their docile and unambitious subjects and serfs.

The Method of Killing and Pillaging.

With slight exceptions, the method has been to kill within a limited period
the largest number of Armenians— men of business capacity and intelligence —
and to beggar their families by robbing them, as far as possible, of their property.
Hence, in almost every place, the massacres have been perpetrated during the
business hours, when the Armenians, in whose hands in almost ever>^ plundered
city at least nine-tenths of the trade was concentrated, were in their shops. In
several places, where, on account of fear, the Armenians had shut their shops
and stores, they were induced by the assurances and promises of the authorities
to open them just before the massacres began. In almost every place the Moslems
made a sudden and simultaneous attack on the market-place just after their noon-
day prayer, killing the shopkeepers and their clerks in their shops, or when they
attempted to flee, and then plundering the shops. In Diarbekir, not .satisfied with
the killing and plundering, they also burned the shops; and in Erzroom and Sivas,
where the plunderers were many and the booty insufficient, thejdooted many houses.

In every place the perpetrators were the resident Moslem population, rein-
forced in Baiboot and vicinity by the Mohammedan Lazes from the southeasterl}^
section of Asia Minor bordering on the Black Sea; in the provinces of Erzroom,
Bitlis, Diarbekir, Harpoot and Sivas the Turks were reinforced by the Kurds, and
in the province of Sivas by the Kurds and Circassians; while in the city of
Erzroom the chief perpetrators were the Sultan's soldiers and officers, who began
the dreadful work at the sound of a bugle, and desisted, for the most part, when
the bugle signaled to them to stop. In Harpoot, also, the soldiers took a promi-
nent part, firing specially on the buildings of the American Mission with Martini-
Henry rifles and Krupp cannon. A shell from one of the cannon burst in the
house of the American missionary. Dr. Barnum. In most places the killing was
by the Turks, while the Kurds and Circassians were intent on plunder, and gene-
rally killed only to strike terror, or when they met with resistance. The surprised
and unarmed Armenians made little or no resistance, and where some of the
Armenians, as at Diarbekir and Gurun, undertook to defend themselves, they
suffered the more. The killing was done with guns, revolvers, swords, clubs,
pick-axes, and every conceivable weapon, and many of the dead were horribly
mangled. The dead were generally stripped and dragged to the Armenian ceme-
teries, where the surviving Armenians were compelled to bury them in huge
trenches, as in Erzroom, where over 500, and in Sivas, where over 800 naked and
mutilated bodies were covered with earth in one grave.

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The plundering was perpetrated with remorseless cruelty. The shops were
absolutely gutted. In the great city of Sivas, not a spool of thread or yard of
cloth was left in the market-place. Even the doors of some of the plundered
houses were torn off and carried away. But the refinement of cruelty was inflicted
on the inhabitants of hundreds of villages, upon whom the Kurds came down like
the hordes of Tamerlane, and robbed the villagers of their flocks and herds.

- Gl>l iH

ARMENIANS HEI,D PRISONERS AFTER THE TREBIZOND MASSACRE.

stripped them of their very clothing, and carried away their bedding, cooking
utensils, and even the little stores of provisions which the poor villagers had with
infinite care and toil laid up for the severities of a rigorous winter. Worst of all
is the bitter cry that comes from every quarter that the Turks and Kurds
seized and carried off" hundreds of Christian women and girls.

The number killed in the massacre in three months' time is estimated at over
fifty thousand — almost entirely the well-to-do, capable, intelligent men of the

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 417

Armenian population in the six to-be- reformed provinces. The amomit of property
stolen from their prostrate subjects b}- the Moslems is estimated at X" 10,000,000.
(Tlie latest estimate is much larger.)

The notive of the Turks.

This is apparent to the most superficial observ^er. The scheme of reforms
devolved civil ofl&ce, judgeships and police participation on Mohammedans and
non-Mohammedans in the six provinces, according to the population of each
element of the locality. This was a bitter pill to those Mohammedan Turks who
had ruled the Armenians with a rod of iron for five hundred years. Hence the
resolution of the Turks was soon taken. It was to diminish the number of the
Armenians, first, b}' dealing a vital blow at those most capable of taking a part in
any scheme of reconstruction; and, secondly, by leaving as many as possible to
•die by starvation, exposure, sickness and terror during the rigors of winter.
Sureh' the arch fiend could not have suggested a more terrible and effectual
method of crippling and ruining and terrorizing the Armenian Christians in the
entire six provinces concerned.

Some may wonder how the Turkish authorities should be so blind as to
destroy so large a part of their best tax-paying subjects in Asia Minor. And it
is indeed a wonder. The explanation is that fanatical hatred of those whom they
had held so long in cruel subjection, and who were, according to the scheme of
reforms, soon to enjoy some form of equality, was stronger than self-interest.
The thought of the Turk was to make sure of the country, and he could conceive
of no other way than by diminishing the number of Armenians and utterly
terrorizing and impoverishing the survivors.

But did not the Turks fear the intervention of Christian Europe? Not much;
certainh' not enough to keep them from carrying out an effective, albeit diabolical,
plan of vengeance. And they were right, for did not 400,000,000 of Christians
witness, last 3'ear, the slaughter in Sassoon of some thousands of Armenians by
Turks and Kurds without extorting from the responsible Turkish authorities the
punishment of a single man engaged in the diabolical work, or even the slightest
indemnity for the utterly impoverished survivors? Nay, more, has not the Sultan
laughed Europe to scorn by decorating Zekki Pasha, commander of the troops
engaged in the carnage, and Bahri Pasha, the former cruel governor of Van?
And have not the Kurds been again permitted to rob the survivors of the Sassoon
massacre, and even to destroy the little huts put up by British charity during the
past summer ?

riendacity of the Authorities.

But, while the Turkish authorities have thus deliberately aimed to extermi-
iiate, as far as possible, the Armenian element in the six provinces, they have
27

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attempted to cover up their deeds by the most colossal lying and misrepresentation.
By the publication of mendacious telegrams from provincial authorities, they have
tried to make Europe and America believe that the Armenians have provoked
these massacres by attacks on Moslem worshipers during their hours of prayer,
and by other like acts of consummate folly. It is true that on September 30 some
400 3'oung Armenians, contrary to the entreaties of the Armenian patriarch and
the orders of the police, attempted to take a well-worded petition to the Grand
Vizier in the main government building in Stambool, and thus precipitated a
conflict; it is also true that the oppressed mountaineers of Zeitun captured a
small garrison of Turkish soldiers; it is likewise true that in various places small

P^

■% V

WOMEN AND CHILDREN WAITING THE DAILY DISTRIBUTIOIT OF FOOD.

bands of Armenians, driven to desperation by the failure of Europe to secure the
fulfillment of treaty stipulations in behalf of their people, have enraged the
Turks by revolutionary attempts, and the Turks have retaliated by imprisoning,
torturing and killing hundreds of Armenians, many of whom were innocent of
any rebellious acts. The universal testimony of impartial foreign eye-witnesses
is that, with the above exceptions, the Armenians have given no provocation,
and that almost, if not quite, all the telegrams of the provincial authorities
accusing the Armenians of provoking the massacres are sheer fabrications of
names and dates. If the Armenians made attacks, where are the Turkish dead ?
For while the Armenian victims are.uumbered by the thousand, even the authorities

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 419

have mentioned but a few as slain among the Turks, and those few were
killed in only one or two places, and in self-defence, as at Diarbekir. Is it probable
that 7000 unarmed and defenceless Armenians — sheep among wolves — would
attack 23,000 Kurds and Turks in the city of Bitlis? Yet this w^as the charge of
the Turkish authorities — a fitting device to cover up their bloody work.

They Could Have Prevented It.

It is an utter mistake to suppose, as many Europeans have done, that the
local authorities in the cities of Trebizond, Erzroom, Erzengan, Bitlis, Harpoot,
Arabkir, Sivas, Amasia, Marsovan, Marash, Aintab, Oorfa and Caesarea could
not have suppressed the fanatical Moslem mobs and restrained the Kurds. The
fact is that the authorities generally looked on while the slaughter and pillage
were going on without raising a hand to stop it, save in one or two places; and
everywhere the authorities did intervene and stop the slaughter when the limited
period during which the Moslems were allowed to kill and rob had expired. At
Marsovan the limit of time was four hours. Here, as in almost every city, the
adult male ^Mussulmans performed their noon-day prayer in their mosques, asking
God to help them in their bloody work, and then rushed upon the Christians.
Within less than four hours the merciful Governor of Marsovan interfered with
soldiers and police, and stopped the horrid work , but meanwhile 120 of the leading
Armenian traders and business men had been killed and their goods stolen. In
several places the slaughter and pillage continued from noon till sundown or later.
At Sivas they continued for a whole day, and even afterwards, for several days,
some twenty-five Armenians a day were killed. In every place, however, the
carnage was stopped as soon as the authorities made an earnest effort to do so.
Had it not been for the intervention of the authorities after the set time of one,
two or three days, the entire Christian population would have been exterminated.
And the bloody work w^as stopped, not because the Moslems did not desire to make
a clean sweep of the Christians and pillage all their goods, but because those who
inspired the slaughter thought that one or two or three daj'S of killing was about,
as much as Eurojzfe would stand at one time.

The Reason for the Massacres.

Xor let it be .supposed that the Turks as such hate the Armenians as such.
The Armenians have been for centuries the most submissive and profitable subjects,
and the}' would .still be most loyal if, instead of the increasingly oppressive policy
of Sultan Abdul Hamid, their lives and honor and property had been even
tolerably protected. All this many Turks know very well, and regret the cruel
and utterly impolitic course of the present .sovereign. The Turk as a man has
many excellent qualities; it is his religion which, at certain times, makes a devil

420

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of him. It is the very essence of Mohammedanism that the Giaour has no right
to live save in subjection. While assured of their power, the Turks treated the
Armenians and their other Christian subjects, not with equalit}-, but with a measure
of toleration. It is Europe insisting on reforms for the Armenians that has enraged
the Turks against the Armenians. The Turks know that in a fair and equal race
the Armenians wnll outstrip them in every department of business and industry,
and they see in any fair scheme of reform the handwriting on the wall for them-
selves. Save for this fear, the Turks would be content to tax and fleece the
Armenians for an unlimited period, as they have done for the last 500 years. If
the scheme of reforms had had in view the sections of the country where the
Greeks predominate, the Turks would have killed and robbed the Greeks as
readily as they have killed and robbed the Armenians. It is not a race fight at all;
for the Mohammedan Turks cordially affiliate with the Mohammedan Slavs
(formerly Christian) and with Kurds and Circassians and Lazes. It is a religious
contention, and the Mohammedan Turks are resolved to keep their Christian
subjects, of whatever nationality, under foot; and in case attempts of any kind
are made to give the Christians real equality and participation in government, the
Turks will kill them one by one, or, occasionally, in open massacre, unless the
Powers who intervene for the relief of the Christians do it with armed force.

A MICK I CAN MISSION AT OCR FA.

CHAPTER XXII.
AMIDST CLASSIC RUINS.

KNOW of no spot on earth from which I could more accurately
describe the ruins of the classic city of ancient Athens than just
where I am at this moment — sitting on a broken, fallen column,
lying amidst the wonders of the Acropolis. The general loca-
tion of Athens reminds one very much of the rugged beauty
of Edinburgh, Scotland. Both are situated round a rocky fort-
ress, which rises from the street, both possess a great hill dominating the town
from a short distance, and Edinburgh has its noble castle and its Arthur's Seat,
corresponding strikingl}- to the Acropolis and Mount Lycabettus, here at Athens.
But here the similarit}' ceases; in no place in all the world, perhaps, can you
find gathered together in the same space so many marvels of art as in the circum-
ference of two miles about the place where I am writing these words.

This sacred rock, first fortified and covered with buildings and votive
offerings, was captured by the Persians in 480 B. C, and when the victorious
Athenians returned to their loved city they found their monuments defaced and
their Acropolis, the pride of the artistic reign of Pisistratus, in ruins.

For coming generations of those who admire the aesthetic and the beautiful
this historic event was a fortunate one.

A greater age supervened. Athens was now richer, nobler, more gifted in
her sons than she had ever been, and the brilliant victory of her arms was followed
by a more brilliant age of art, a generation of unparalelled energy — a period of
rapid growth in design and in the control of materials.

The Acropolis.

As one ascends toward the Acropolis the great Propylsea, or entrance portica
of the architect Muesicles, first arrests attention. While the outer row of pillars
in both directions are Doric, the richer Ionic order is emploj^ed for the inner
supports, which are under the marble roof

We can readily imagine that it required no small labor to quarry and bring
up to the Acropolis beams of marble twenty-two feet long and to set them over
pillars twenty-five feet high.

There are stray mentions of a windlass and once of a pulley in Aristophanes
and in Plato, but, having an unlimited supply of slave labor, there is evidence

(421)

422

AROUND THE WORLD

to show that usually the use of ropes, rollers and inclined planes was employed,
which we see in pictures of Egyptian and Assyrian transportation of colossal
statues.

Standing in the inner gate of the Propylaea the visitor at once is impressed by
the perfect features of the ruins.

Over his head are the enormous architraves of the Propylaea, which span the
gateway from pillar to pillar. To the right is the mighty Parthenon, so con-

PORT FOR ATHENS.

structed that sun and shade would play upon it at moments differing from the
rest and thus produce a perpetual variety of light.

The Parthenon.

To the left, overlooking the town, is that beautifully decorated little Ionic
temple, the Erechtheum, with the graceful and stately caryatids looking inward
and toward the Parthenon.

In these two buildings, set opposite each other, you have the embodiment of
majesty and grace, the ornaments of the Parthenon being large and massive, and
those of the Erechtheum being refined and delicate.

There are three kinds of sculptured decorations on the Parthenon.

Sculptured Decorations.

The triangular pediments over the east and west fronts were each filled with
a group of statues, larger than life size, the one representing the birth of Athene
and the other her contest with Poseidon for the patronage of Athens.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 423

The plaques of stone inserted into the frieze between the triglyphs and carved
in relief with a single small group on eacli, form a second kind, and a band of
reliefs, representing a great Panathenic procession, runs all around the external
wall at the top of the cella, which gives evidence r>f the extraordinary power of
grouping in the designs of Phidias.

The cella was surrounded by a peristyle with eight Doric columns on the
facade and sixteen on the sides.

The building was 227 feet in length, no feet in width, and the surface upon
which it stood was 228 feet long and 66 feet high.

The Statue of Athens.

The most imposing statue was that of the goddess Minerva, which stood
erect, covered with the gegis and a long tunic, holding a lance in one hand and a
shield in the other, her helmet bearing a sphinx and on either side two grifhns,
and on her shield Phidias represented the battle of the Amazons and the battle of
the gods and giants.

The statue was about thirtj'-six feet in height.

The Parthenon was erected under Pericles, and it is said to have cost 2000
talents, or nearly $25,000,000.

Classic Scenes.

Sloping up against one side of the Acropolis are the two famous theatres —
that of Herodus Atticus, of Hadrians' time, and the Theatre of Dionysus, where
the tragedies and comedies of the great Greek masters were produced.

On the other side is the Areopagus, or Mars' Hill.

W'^ithin sight of the former are the colossal columns of the Roman- Greek
Temple of Jupiter, and overlooked by the latter is that perfect gem of Doric
grace — the Temple of Theseus.

The Areopagus.

It was on this Areopagus, or Mars' Hill, that the old philosophers of fashion
came in contact with the burning eloquence, the profound convictions and the
fier}'' zeal of the Apostle Paul.

It is now a bare, rocky knoll, upon which evidences of old cutting show that
it was smoothed for seats and, perhaps, some wooden structure applied to make
the rude stones more comfortable.

The Theatre of Dionysus.

The Theatre of Dionysus is of great interest.

As the Greek religion was essentially a religion of joy, the Athenian state
thought it just to apply the public funds to give every free citizen a day's wages

i.424)

WITH KYES WIDE OPEN. 425

in order that he might be able to enjoy himself at the drama produced as part of
the festival of the god Dionysus.

In the Attic tragic and comic dramas were combined moral improvement,
political instruction and religious enjoyment, which we cannot fully appreciate
unless we make a careful study of old Greek life.

This theatre, dedicated to Dionysus, was open to the weather, contained an
immense orchestra, and, according to recent measurements, fifteen thousand
persons could have found room at a performance.

Dramatic Art,

The masterpieces composed by ^schylus, Sophocles and Euripides in honor
of the gods and for the benefit of the imperial democracy of Athens, did not set
forth before the public vulgar, everyday griefs or misfortunes, as are represented
on the modern stage, but dealt wath legendary heroes, the triumph of virtue and
greatness over cruelty and vice, and the victory of human prowess over the reign
of tyranny.

One of the famous dramas of Sophocles (CEdipus Rex 863,899) contains this
inspiring truth: " May it be my lot to observe strict holiness in every word and
deed — holiness whose august laws are proclaimed from their birthplace far above
the earth, for Heaven alone, and no mortal race of man hath begotten them, nor
will oblivion ever lull them to sleep. Great is the Divine Spirit in them and of
eternal youth."

Its Religious Bearing.

I suppose that every intelligent man must conclude that it was only with the
rise of sestheticism that religion ever became a doctrine of sadness and fear, robbing
the wine-cup of life of its sweetness and sparkling beauty.

In the fifty years between the end of the Persian and the commencement of
the Peloponnesian wars Athenian genius, both political and artistic, reached its
most perfect development.

'Tis true that the Hermes of Praxiteles, the gem of the Olympian excava-
tions, is of its kind unique, and beyond compare, but, with few brilliant excep-
tions, the middle of the fifth century B. C. witnessed the climax in sculpture,
architecture and poetr)^, if not in painting, instrumental music and eloquence.

The Decline of Hellas.

This supremacy excited jealousy and led to tyrannical rule, and after the
fourth century B. C, which produced Plato and Demosthenes and Apelles, the
chief glory departed from Athens to settle in Alexandria, Antioch, Pergamum
and Rhodes. li

426

AROUND THE WORLD

After the days of Alexander the once glorious Athens fell under the senti-
mental favor of the Romans, and their touch is traceable in the ruins that are
crumbling about me.

The last struggle for old Greek independence was fought before Corinth, a
short distance from Athens, and the burning of that splendid city in 146 B. C. by
the Roman Mummius marked a great epoch in history.

The Epistles of St. Paul to the Corinthians give us glimpses of the customs
of this collection of mercantile people under the favor of Roman influences.

ATHENIAN EXCAVATIONS.

Nothing of the great Corinth remains except the noble Doric pillars of one
old temple, which points to the seventh century before Christ, and which, if they
had tongues, could doubtless convince us that the facts of history are more
thrilling than the fictions of the wildest imagination.

About Ancient Troy.

I suppose that it will not be disputed that Dr. Schliemann, by his excavations
in this part of the world, proved himself to be the most intelligent, enterprising
and indefatigable explorer of modern times.

His death was a greater calamit}^ than would have been the death of any
crowned head on am- throne on earth. He was taken away while in the midst of
the exploration of fields that are rich in the treasures of the past, and while he

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 427

left some noble followers, it is quite doubtful if any of them will equal the
enthusiastic pioneer in their labors.

In coming to Athens, where is located his palatial home, I hoped to have
personal interviews with members of his family and receive much information
about his life work. I have been greatly favored in these respects.

riadame Schliemann.

Through the kindness of the talented artist, Mr. Gifford Dyer, who is
doing excellent work in Athens, I was presented to Madame Schliemann,
and after hearing her talk of her husband's labors and listening to her lucid
explanations of the "finds" in the museum of her home, one can appreciate
the remark of an admirer of hers who said to me that the Doctor could never
have accomplished his success had it not been for the warm sympathy of his
intelligent wife.

While a widower the report is that the learned gentleman declared that he
would never marr}- until he found a woman who could recite from memory all of
Homer's poems. The condition was met in the cultured Grecian woman who
became his inspiration.

The lovers of the Iliad and the Odj'ssey will agree, perhaps, that Dr.
Schliemann did nothing by his excavation that merits to a greater degree the
gratitude of the world than his successful efforts in throwing light on the question
of Homer's place in histor}-, and his discovery of what is, beyond all reasonable
doubt, the location of ancient Troy.

The Explorer's Discoveries.

Professor Gilder.sleeve, of Johns Hopkins University, and Professor Wheeler,
of Cornell Universit}-, who are at present in Athens, visited the place of these
excavations, and both regard the conclusions reached as pre-eminently satis-
factor}'.

These excavations have undoubtedlj^ contributed much toward clearing up a
hitherto very mudd)^ subject, and of linking the Homeric poems with the general
history of the world.

Before Dr. Schliemann's explorations were rewarded with success man}- believed
that the city w^hich played such a thrilling part in the poems of Homer existed
only in the poet's imagination; but now a real Troy, for the first time with
marked notes of probability, is presented to our view.

It is interesting, if not positively conclusive, to notice the .striking comparison
between the testimony of the poems and the testimony given in through these
excavations.

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(428)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

429

Historic Troy.

While Ave cannot say, nor does any one contend, that the}' definitely fix for
the Trojan war a place in chronolog}^ yet the relation between the excavations
and the Homeric text bears a correspondence that is so close as to be most
remarkable, to say the least.

Since the death of Dr. Schliemann this work has been ably prosecuted by
several distinguished gentlemen with increasingly gratifying results. The excava-
tions bring before us the remains of a large city, which point to the days when
there were great builders in prehistoric times.

HISTORIC trov.

It will be remembered that the Homeric poems represent the walls of Troy as
the mighty work of Poseidon, and thus, by means of the pickaxe of the modern
excavator, we are brought in relation to a race of people which has left many
traces of its work along the shores of the Mediterranean Sea.

The Excavations.

In these excavations we have presented to us the fact that the inhabitants of
this old, but new-found city, used copper as the staple material of the implements.

430

AROUND THE WORLD

utensils and of the weapons of war, generally, when any metal was brought in
service, and in this respect again we have a correspondence with certain
■descriptions by Homer. But there is an apparent exception to this.

Several large battle-axes have been found, and by means of chemical analysis
these have been determined to be bronze. These battle-axes were found with a
mass of very precious objects, and the supposition is that they were possessed by
the royal family or by the wealthy.

We know that Homer speaks of tin as a metal of high value and rarit3^ and

consequently the kiianos, or bronze, of
which he writes, was even more costly,
the use of which was confined to the
wealthier classes.

Homer's Testimony.

The brilliant passage in the poems
which describes the twined or plaited
fillet of gold which formed a part of
the head-dress of Andromache, and
which was torn off in agony of grief
on Hector's death, is strikingly illus-
trated bj' two exquisite head-dresses
or ornaments of pure gold which the
excavations have brought to light.

The presumption is, and it does
not seem to be unreasonable, that
these are the ornaments worn by An-
dromache, which the Iliad testifies to
have been of great significance, and
which were carefully put away in an
eifort to save them on account of their
importance.

Dr. Schliemann was congratulated on another "find," which strengthens
the relation between the poems and the excavations. Six oblong plates of silver,
weighing from 171 up to 190 grammes, or about five ounces each, were found
among certain treasures, and experts seem to agree that these are the talanta of
Homer, which belong to an epoch when the use of gold and silver was unknown
in the smaller transactions of exchange.

The poem agrees with the conclusions thus reached, as for instance the
descriptions of the foe presented to the successful judge and the fourth prize
awarded in the chariot race (Iliad xviii, 507; xxiii, 269).

A CLASSIC HEAD, ATHENS.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

431

Art of Writing.

With respect to writing, these explorations show that, in this city and time,
it was not in use for ordinary purposes, and was the rare and recondite posses^^ion
of comparative!}' a ver}- few. This fact bears a marked parallel to the position of
writing in the poems of Homer, from which we infer that it was nearly an
unknown art among the mass of the
people.

A pleasant time was spent in the
National Museum, where Dr. Schlie-
mann generously deposited most of
the results of his labors. What
glories of art crowned the fourth and
fifth centuries B. C. of Athenian his-
tory i

The American Athletes.

The city is still talking of the fine
impression made by the American
athletes during the late Oljmipic games.
Beside carrjdng off some of the hand-
some prizes, their striking appearance
and their gentlemanly conduct elicited
universal praise.

An enthusiastic Grecian living in
Alexandria has just given $50,000 for
the restoration of the great Stadium,
and a bill is to be presented in the
Parliament of Greece providing for
the exhibition of these games every
four years. The next Olympic games
will be held at Paris in 1900. Speaking of this Parliament reminds me of the
parliamentary election of the new Athenian member that took place Sunday
afternoon. The streets were full of shouting men and decorated carriages, the
four candidates were borne through the city in grand style and the ballots were
all deposited in boxes set up before the altars in the different cathedrals. How
is this for church and state ?

BELLE OF ATHENS.

CHAPTER XXIII.

A GEn OF THE SEAS.

jT was the French novelist, Paul Bourget, who exclaimed as his
steamer was approaching the picturesque island of Corfu: " It
is so lovely that one wants to take it in one's arms; " and the
great Bonaparte, as he looked upon the old town, with its mas-
sive stone houses of creamj- color, built upon the irregular
slopes of the hills, said to his companion on the deck of the
ship: " Here is the most beautiful situation in the world."

As we came in sight of this gem of the seas, the clearness
of the atmosphere, the deep blue of the sky, the play of colors upon the moun-
tainous background of the old-fashioned tower, and the varied tint of the sur-
rounding sea, all contributed to make the picture perfect beyond description.

We may well suppose that contending powers fought fiercel}'- during all the
ages for the possession of this little paradise.

Under the Maltese Cross.

Corinthians, Athenians, Spartans, Macedonians, Romans, Frenchmen and
Englishmen have, in turn, planted their standards here, and now the flag that
bears the Maltese cross floats from the great fortress that proudly dominates the
island.

Although for j-ears it was under the friendly protectorate of Great Britain
this was never quite satisfactory to the Corfiotes, and when the chance was given
them, with enthusiasm they voted, "The single and unanimous will of the
Ionian people has been and is for their reunion with the Kingdom of Greece."

As this was more than a gentle hint, it was in 1864 that England gracefully
withdrew, and since that time Corfu and her sister islands have formed an
important part of the Hellenic kingdom.

The King of Greece.

Here, as everywhere among the Hellenes, we found that the King of Greece
is very popular, and his democratic manners make him the idol of the common
people.

(432)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

433

As will be remembered, he was Prince William, of Denmark, the brother
of the Czarina of Russia and of the Princess of Wales, and after his election by
the National Assembly, in 1863, he took the name of George.

Before his election was finallj^ announced votes were cast for Prince Albert of
England, the Duke of Edinburg, Prince Jerome Napoleon, the Prince Imperial,
and some in the assembly enthusiast-
icall}'' advocated a republican form of
government, but all at last united on
the young prince from Denmark, who
was as little of an aristocrat as could
be found in all Europe.

Indeed, Greece is more of a re-
public, perhaps, than any other country
with a crowned head at its helm.
Suffrage is universal; hereditary titles
are not known; there are no entailed
estates; the press is absolutely free,
and the advantages of education are
enjoyed by all classes.

The people are passionately patri-
otic, and they seem to be intensely
alive to everything that pertains to
the welfare of their loved land.

The City of Corfu.

Our ship had hardly dropped an-
chor, a few hundred yards from the
esplanade of Corfu, when a score of
boatmen were clamoring for our pat-
ronage, and, accepting the services of
an old Corfiote, whose English and
French were as dilapidated as were
his garments and craft, we were soon
on the streets of the city, whose pop-
ulation of about thirty thousand is
composed, besides the natives, of Dal-
matians, Maltese, Levantines and He-
brews. A strange fact came to my knowledge while gathering data about the
island and its people. The heirs of a certain George Colochieretry have been
maintained in luxury for many years by means of the embalmed body of a saint by

the nameof Spiridion, who was martyred fifteen hundred years ago.
28

A MODERN GREEK MAID.

434

AROUND THE WORLD

St. Spiro's Body.

The story goes that he was persecuted under Diocletian. His embalmed body-
was taken to Constantinople, and in the latter half of the fifteenth century
Colochieretr}^ at his own expense, brought it to Corfu, where it reposes in a silver
coffin, lit by hanging lamps, under the dome of the Church of St. Spiro.

Persons are seen in great numbers pressing into the church on certain

occasions, where they lay their
gifts upon and kneel before
the sarcophagus of the sainted
dead.

Every four months the
body is lifted from the coffin
and borne up and down the
streets, followed bj^ the Greek
clergy and the officials of the
town, and, during these per-
formances, the ignorant masses
of the people bring forth their
sick and lay them, with gifts,
where the shadow of the saint
can pass over them.

If the heirs of George
Colochieretr}^, who inherited
this remarkable piece of prop-
erty, were inspired by the en-
terprising spirit of certain
Americans, a stock company
would be formed without de-
la)', and live stock would be
issued upon this corpse of fif-
teen hundred 5'ears.
The island contains many antiquities of great interest.

Fifty years ago, when one of the old forts was demolished, an ancient Greek
cemetery was uncovered, and among the graves was found the tomb of Menekrates,
which bears a metrical inscription in Greek, and which makes the statement that
he lost his life accidentall}' by drowning.

This inscription was carved upon this stone two thousand five hundred years
ago, before the battles of Salamis and Marathon were fought, and the writing is
still perfectly legible.

Here on Corfu one recalls the Odyssey over and over again.

A MODERN GREEK.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

435

Naiisicaa comes to mind, for Corfu is the Scheria of Homer's poem, the home
■of King Alcinous.

Not far from where we stand we can see the blue waters of a deep bay which
receives a stream upon whose bank Ulysses first looked upon the charming
maiden, " where were the pools unfailing, and clear and abundant the water."

Classic Isles.

Out in the sparkling bay an island of classic story is seen. It is the
ship which was turned into stone by Neptune, whose masts are now trees,

. •. -, «*^'./ '.'.-■.'>■.■■-'- -^t-^-'-

^§«.■•i»r■•■v..^'''■'^*^-v•'i.

lif f'i-i^ -.- ■* ■■ ■•-.,■

'••'- V

PRISON OF SOCRATES, ATHENS.

-whose deck is now a platform of rock, and whose hull rests upon unseen
foundations.

Ten miles south of Corfu we pass Paxo, of romantic legend. To the right is
Parga, which is associated with the expression of Hobhouse, "Robbers all at
Parga." The next island of the Ionian group is Santa Maura, the Eencadia of
the ancients, from whence dark Sappho flung herself in her despair.

(436^

WITH EYEvS WIDE OPEN. 437

Now comes in sight Ithaca, which Ulysses loved, " not because it was broad,

l3Ut because it was his own," and as we pass Zante the words of our own Poe are

recalled:

' 'O hyacinthine isle ! O purple Zante !
Isola d'oro ! Fior di Levante ! "

The sail through these island-dotted seas was onl}' too short, and on the
second day we touched the Italian shore. Although some years since we had
enjoyed a delightful visit to Naples, Pompeii and Vesuvius, with pleasure we
turn our faces again in this direction. Especially we desired to make another
study of the live mountain and dead city.

In a Dead City.

With the exception of Constantinople, no city in Europe and Asia is more
beautifully situated than Naples. From the northern shores of the bay it looks
out upon a picture in water-colors that is world-renowned, and between the city
and the chain of the Apennines smoking Vesuvius, with its lower slopes
studded with white villages, rises insulated in the plain, with the partly excavated
city of Pompeii in the meadow below.

Of this live mountain and dead city I desire specially to speak.

In the cool hours of a delightful spring da}^ I took carriage at Naples, and,
driving along the crowded quays of the Marinella, the picturesque old Castle of
the Carmine and the Ponte della Maddalena were soon behind us, and we w^ere
•dashing down the road that runs near the eastern shores of the bay.

Stretched on the fences, hanging from the limbs of trees, twined about the
doors and windows of the houses and festooning the tops of the houses were miles
and miles of macaroni, and as the carriage passed over the road Italian boys and
girls ran in front of the horses, turning somersaults, and exclaiming, " Macaroni,"
"Macaroni," which corresponds to our beggar's plea for " bread," macaroni
being the staff of life.

The exhibition of the manufacture of the stuff, the display of the serpentine
thing stretching over everything in sight and the din of the word from the
mouths of the army of beggars have, I fear, turned my taste against a dish that
has hitherto been quite palatable.

Our road passed through the court-yard of the palace at Portici, at the head
of the bay, and immediately afterward we enter the little city of Resina, where
more than ten thousand persons have built their houses and enjoy the pleasures of
life upon the tufa and lava which cover the noted town of Herculaneum.

Less than two miles out of Resina we reach the Observatory, about 2000 feet
above the sea, and close at hand is the Hermitage, from which a magnificent view
is taken of the heights of Camaldoh, Posillpo, Misenum, Ischia, with its pyramid-

438

AROUND THE WORLD.

like Monte Eporneo standing against the blue Italian skj', and toward the south
can be seen the Monte St. Angelo, with Castellammare, Vico, Sorrento and
Massa at its foot, and further in the distance loom up the three-peaked Capri.

At the Crater of Vesuvius.

Declining to be aided b}^ a persevering porter, and accompanied only by a
single guide, I made the ascension to the crater of Vesuvius on foot. This is an
experience of a lifetime and there is no temptation ever to repeat it. For more

CITY OF NAPLES WITH MOUNT VESUVIUS IN THE B.\CKGROUND.

than two hours I pressed my wearj^ way through loose ashes and fresh lava
currents, and when the top of the cone was reached the waves of sulphurous vapor
were .so trying that I was obliged to hold a handkerchief over my mouth, and turn
my face away from the wind to relieve the stifling sensation produced b}- the
impregnated atmosphere. When I reached the extreme top both of the soles of
my shoes were nearly burned off, my trousers were .scorched in several places, my
new Naples hat was broken in, and I looked, I am sure, like a double finst cousin

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

439

to the most disreputable tramp that ever proudly marched in the ranks of Coxey's
army. At the circus, when a wild beast bellowed, an enthusiastic Irishman was heard
to exclaim: " That's a mighty sound. I'd like to look into the crater's mouth."
While the mumblings and groanings of fiery Vesuvius filled my ears I was
prompted by as laudable an ambition, and I said to my obliging guide, " This is
a terrible noise that comes out
of this trembling mountain.
I must look into the crater's
mouth! " Holding his arm, I
walked to the crumbling edge
of the pit of fire, and as the
wind blew the vapor and
smoke in the opposite direc-
tion I looked down into this
flaming lake, which reminded
me of certain thrilling descrip-
tions in Dante's " Inferno."

Its Historical Aspect.

Vesuvius, which rises
4000 feet in the midst of the
plain of Campania, is about
thirty miles in circumference,
and on the west it is open to
the plain of Naples, and on
the south its base is washed
by the sea. During the last
three hundred years Vesuvius
has been the only active crater
among the volcanic group of
the Ba}^ of Naples, and Stom-
boli, the most northern of the
Lipari Islands, is the only
other permanently active vol-
cano in Europe, lying about seventy miles north of ^Etna and 120 miles southeast
of Vesuvius.

Although Strabo describes Vesuvius as a truncated cone, with a barren and
ashy aspect, " having cavernous hollows in its cineritious rocks, which look as if
they had been acted on by fire," and Seneca writes that in former times it had
given out more than its own volume of matter and had furnished the channel, not

-.**

GRECIAN CADET.

440

AROUND THE WORLD

the food, of the internal fire, it was not until the sixty -third year of our era,
during the reign of Nero, that the mountain began for the first time to give indi-
cations that the volcanic fire was returning to its former channel. On the second
month of this year the surrounding country was shaken by an earthquake, which,
as Seneca informs us, threw down a great part of Pompeii and Herculaneum; in

the following year another earthquake
occurred, which destroyed a part of
Naples, and during the next sixteen
years these commotions continued at

intervals.

Death of Pliny.

But it was on the twenty-fourth
of August, in the year 79, during the
reign of Titus, that the first eruption
of Vesuvius of which we have any
record took place. It was this eruption
which destroyed Pompeii and Hercu-
laneum and which caused the death of
Plinj', the naturalist.

The younger Pliny, in letters to
Tacitus, gives a description of the
death of his uncle (vi. 16 and 20); and
says that about one in the afternoon
his mother informed his uncle, who
was stationed with the Roman fleet at
Misenum, that a cloud appeared of un-
usual size and shape. " It was not,"
he continues, "at that distance dis-
cernible from what mountain it arose,
but it was found afterward that it was
from Vesuvius. I cannot give a more
exact description of its figure than by
likening it to that of a pine tree, for it
shot up a great height in the form
of a trunk, which extended itself at the top into the form of branches, occasioned,
I imagine, either by a sudden gust of air, which impelled it, the force of which
decreased as it advanced upward, or the cloud itself, being pressed back again by
its own weight, expanded in this manner. It appeared sometimes bright and
sometimes dark and spotted, as it became more and more impregnated with earth
and cinders. This was a surprising phenomenon, and it deserved, in the opinion

SOI.DIER OK ATHENS.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 441

of the learned man, to be inquired into more carefully. He commanded a
Liburman galley to be prepared for him, and made me an oflfer of accompanying
him, if I desired. I declined, as my studies were more agreeable. He went
out of the house with his tablets in his hand.

" The mariners at Retinae entreated him not to venture upon so hazardous an
undertaking. He sailed immediatel}^ to places which were abandoned by other
people. He now found that the ashes beat into the ships much hotter and in
greater quantities, and as he drew nearer, pumice stones, with black flints, burnt
and torn up by the flames, broke in upon them, and now the hasty ebb of the sea
and ruins tumbling from the mountain, hindered their nearer approach to the
shore.

" Pausing a little upon this, whether he should not return back, and, urged to
it by the pilot, he cried out: ' Fortune assists the brave; let us make the best of
our way to Pomponianus,' who was then at Stabise."

Destruction of Pompeii.

During this terrible night he perished.

The younger Pliny, the historian, gives a minute description of the eruption
and the devastation it wrought. The crater vomited ashes, red-hot stones, loose
fragments of volcanic materials and enormous volumes of vapor, which fell upon
the country for miles around in torrents of heated water, charged with the dry,
light ashes which were suspended in the air.

Since this first recorded eruption Vesuvius during every century has burst
forth in these fearful upheavals, but the most important eruptions, in modern
times, occurred in the years 1632, 1793, 1794, 1804, 1S22, 1828 and 1872,

It has been noticed that when the crater is nearly filled up or its surface
slightly depressed below the rim, and when there is a diminution of the water in
the springs and wells on the slopes and at the foot of the mountain, an eruption
is near at hand.

A Dead City.

With a copy of Bulwer's " Last Days of Pompeii" in hand, it was with
thrilling sensations of pleasure that I passed through the entrance near the Street
of the Tombs, and commenced m}^ study of the ruins of a city that was suddenly
checked in its life of gaiety and pleasure by the fiery monster on the plain over
eighteen hundred years ago.

The destroyed city was itself built upon the volcanic rocks of the Campania,
which formed a peninsula, surrounded by a plain extending to the sea on the west
and south and bounded on the east by the river Sarno. Although one of the
classic writers informs us that it was " a celebrated city," little of its history has
come down to us.

442

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At the time of its destruction it was a commercial town of about thirty-
thousand inhabitants, was a summer resort for wealthy Romans, and. in the year
A. D. 55 it became a Roman colony under Nero. Cicero had a villa in one of the
suburbs of the place and here wrote his " Offices,*'

It was in Pompeii that Claudius took refuge from the cruelty of Tiberius,

here Seneca passed his early
youth, and it was in the am-
phitheatre of the city that
(jccurred a fight between
the citizens of Pompeii and
the town of Nuceria, which
is so vividly described by
Tacitus.

While the people of the
city were busily engaged in
repairing the buildings that
had been injured by the earth-
quakes of A. D. 63 and 64,
the eruption of August 24, 79,
completel}' destroyed the city.
Showers of ashes and pumice
overwhelmed the place, the
roofs of the houses were broken
in by the stones, and in their
residences and on the streets
hundreds of persons were
killed.

Excavations and Discoveries.

Although the celebrated
engineer and architect, Do-
menico Fontana, in the 3'ear
1592, constructed an aqueduct
for conveying the water of

ATHENIAN STREET MERCHANT. ^j^^ gg^j^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^y ^j^.

nunziata under the city, passing the Forum and three temples, and sinking his air
shafts over more than a mile of its .surface, it was not until the middle of the
eighteenth century that the city was discovered.

While a peasant in the 3'ear 174S was sinking a well, a painted chamber
containing statues and other objects of antiquity was unearthed, and immediately

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN, 443

under the order of Charles III. the excavations were prosecuted vigorousl}'. A
few years later the great amphitheatre was cleared out, and since that time, with
more or less activit_y, the work has been going on.

For some years there was an annual grant of 60,000 frs. ($12,000) by
the Italian Parliament for the prosecution of the excavations, but whether this
sum is now devoted to the work I am not informed. In shape the town is an
irregular oval extending from east to west and surrounded by walls in circum-
ference about two miles.

Streets and Hansions.

The widest streets are not more than eleven feet, not including the raised
footway; there were five principal thoroughfares of the cit}', and the pavements
are composed mostly of large polygonal blocks of lava closely fitted together.

It is interesting to trace the Greek and Roman styles of architecture among
the ruins of Pompeii. Some of the temples retain the peculiar features of Grecian
architecture, but ita most cases the principles of Greek art have been corrupted or
cast aside altogether. For instance, the Ionic capital, which in Greek architecture
was invariably marked by its simplicity, is here loaded with elaborate ornaments.

It is noticeable that some of the handsomest mansions have shops attached to
them, showing the commercial character of the city. There is a sameness in the
houses.

Structure of Houses.

The outer walls of the ground floor were stuccoed, and generally painted in
bright colors ; the upper floors alone had windows, and the roof, being flat, was con-
verted into a terrace and planted with vines and flowers, so as to form a pleasant
promenade. The vestibule led into the court, where public conferences were held
by the proprietor; and the private apartments of the house consisted of a number of
rooms decorated according to the rank and circumstances of the occupant.

Within the limits of this chapter it is impossible for me to dwell in detail upon
the interesting ruins of Pompeii, but those that attract particular attention are the
Forum, the Basilica, the Temples of Venus, Jupiter, Augustus and Neptune, the
Houses of Diomed, Sallust, Faun, Castor and Pollux, the Baths,. the Gate of
Herculaneum, the Amphitheatre and the Street of the Tombs.

Antiquities.

Among the many antiquities found in the city are valuable works of art and
many objects which have made familiar to us the religion, the public institutions,
the amusements and the domestic life of this people, but it is remarkable that
nothing has yet been discovered which throws light on their literature or intellec-
tual pursuits. With the exception of a single papyrus roll and a few lines found

444

AROUND THE WORLD

on the walls of the Basilica, and a verse of the yEneid written on the wall of a
private house, no traces of ancient literature, as far as I can learn, have come to
light.

What strange feelings possess one as he listens to his own footsteps upon
pavements that were silent for so many centuries ! Thought lifts the veil that
hides from view the dim, distant past.

Lifting the Veil.

Looking upon the blackened forms of men, women and children, whose warm
blood was chilled by a terrible calamity a few years after the Apostle Paul, the
Roman prisoner, passed near by on his way to Rome (and some of whom, perhaps,
saw the chained Christian hero) , ages seem to be annihilated, and we are
brought face to face with events that have heretofore been to us onl}- historical.

The gay town is alive with the aristocracy of Rome; the theatres are crowded
with applauding audiences; the narrow streets swarm with the brilliantly cos-
tumed, motley, jostling, laughing, quarreling host of humanity, the growing
plants wave under the cool sprays of the playing fountains in the court-yards as
the rich occupants entertain their guests. Suddenly a crape veil is drawn over
the bright face of the sun, the artillery of Vesuvius shoots torth missiles of fire
and death, and the glory of gladness passes into the gloom of the grave.

PRIEST OF THE GREEK CHURCH.

CHAPTER XXIV.

A CITY OF THE C/ESARS— THE FACTS AND FABLES OF ROME.

S in ancient times, so in these modern da^-s, all the roads in
Italy lead to Rome; but how different the mode of travel
over these highwaj-s now and in the times of the Caesars!
A few hours behind a puffing iron horse, and we pass from
the beautiful ba}^ to the turbid Tiber. Rome lies chiefly
on the eastern side of the Tiber, a deep, rapid, muddy
stream, running southward to the Mediterranean Sea. The
-=^ seven hills (actually ten hills) upon which the ancient city
was built are comparatively slight elevations, having been lowered by the cutting
down of their summits and the filling in of their valleys.

The modern Rome is built on the debris of the old cit}', varying from ten to
fifty feet in depth. The streets of the city, with two or three exceptions, are
short and narrow — many are crooked and filthy, all are paved with small broken
stones, rough, sharp and hard as flint, which are a torment to pedestrians.

The houses are built to the edge of the streets, generalh^ large, three to six
stories high, fireproof and stuccoed — and nearly every house is occupied by several
families on different floors.

The plazas or public squares are numerous, and many of them are adorned
with fountains, statues, monuments, obelisks and arches.

The Pincian Garden deserves special notice. It crowns a hill of historic
interest, and here was the villa of Lucullus, the conqueror of Mithridates, and the
grave of Nero. An ancient parapet wall, lOO feet high, skirts one side, and from
the opposite direction can be seen a landscape of surpassing beauty.

The summit has recently been leveled and beautified with drives, walks,
trees, shrubs, flowers, grottoes, statues and fountains. This last word brings to
mind the fountain of Trevi, one of the most wonderfully fantastic fountains in the
world.

As I came down one of the narrow .streets of Rome, I was dazzled by sheets
of water, which, from a pell-mell of rocks, dominated by a building covered with
statues, came tumbling, foaming and sparkling on every side, to be engulfed in
cavernous holes. In the midst of rock-work and shell, Neptune emerges with
his steed from the basement of a palace to which this enormous construction is

(445)

446

AROUND THE WORLD.

fixed. From graceful bas-reliefs, from the upper basins, from the hollow of
rocks in which intertwine climbing plants carved on rough stone, innumerable
streams of all sizes spout forth on ev^ery side; and gathering into a cataract of
pure, limpid water, it dashes into a reservoir in which a small ship might float.

From this basin of crystal water let us turn our es'es to a great reservoir,
long since left dry, called the Baths of Caracalla.

These immense ruins, with their thick walls, high arches and vast baths lined
with mosaics, are located on the banks of the Tiber, and were commenced by

Caracalla in A. D.

212.

These baths
covered 2,625,000
square yards,
nearly a mile
square, and could
accommodate from
ten to thirty thou-
sand bathers.

These and
other public baths-
were the resort of
all classes, f or
pleasure, business
and dissipation;
and the influence
of these gatherings
was, doubtless, one
of the causes of

the degeneracy of the Romans, rendering them an easy prey to the Goths and
Vandals.

We must now pass on to the historical spot called the Palatine, round which
the seven hills group themselves, and which is the primitive site of Rome. It
was just here, according to the legend, that Romulus and Remus, the twin .sons
of Mars and Sylvia, were suckled by a she wolf, then reared by the shepherd
Faustulus; and here it was that the remarkable Romulus harnessed a heifer and a
bull to a plow, and traced the sacred enclosure of the city between the rising and
going down of the sun.

As we saunter among these thickets of ruins we are borne into the bosom of
the classic period of Roman history, and nearly every fragment about us finds its
identity guaranteed by a citation from some annalist or poet of antiquity.

GENERAL VIEW OF ROME.

w
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0

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'J

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r.

V \-\i )

448

AROUND THE WORLD

Here dwelt, besides the chief dictators, the Gracchi, as well as Catullus,
Fiaccus, Hortensius, Catiline and Marcus Tullius.

Just here it was that Cicero referred in those lines to the Tribune Clodius:
" I will raise my roof higher, not from contempt for thee, but to veil from thee

the view of the city which
thou would' st fain have
destroyed""

Below the roof, and a
little to the right, Julius
Caesar established himself
as soon as he was in pos-
session of the pontificate.

Near here Marcus An-
tonius, Claudius Nero, the
father of Tiberius, and
Octavius, the father of
Augustus, looked from
their windows upon the
rolling Tiber and formed
ambitious and cruel
schemes.

During recent excava-
tions a curious and im-
portant discovery was made
on the Palatine Hill. The
pursuit of the excavations
brought to light a subter-
ranean passage, round
which, in the direction of
the ancient palace, were the
leaden pipes for the con-
duct of water. On these
pipes we can read, from
distance to distance, the
words IVLI^ AVG
(Julise Aug.). As the name of the owner is constantly inscribed on pipes of this
kind, this inscription is a genuine proof of ownership, and informs that the house in
question belonged to the Empress I,ivia, Julia Augusta, orLivia, widow of Augustus.
This house is decorated in the most brilliant style. One of the panels con-
tains a fanciful landscape, in which trees, terraces adorned with statues, bridges

INTERIOR OF CHAPEL ON THE SPOT WHERE ST.
WAS CRUCIFIED.

PETER

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

449

thrown out into space, rookeries and flowing water make up a scene that would
delight a Japanese; in the foreground three ducks are coming out of an aquatic
grotto, leaving long furrows in the water.

Some of the rooms are enriched by thick garlands of flowers and fruit suc-
ceeding one another
in festoons and
bound with rib-
bons; and others
contain paintings
of rare delicacy,
much of the fresh-
ness of the coloring
being presen,'ed.

But, on the
Palatine, nothing
interested me more
than Nero's Fo-
rum, the outline of
which has been
identified by arch-
aeologists. There
we see a portion of
the wall, there the
bench of Council-
lors, the imperial
judgment seat, and
there is the pris-
oner's seat.

We know that
Paul was tried be-
fore Nero. This
was his Forum, and
perhaps just here
the Apostle to the

Gentiles stood. As we cross the Tiljer to visit St. Peter's and the Vatican on the
western side, we approach the famous castle of St. Angelo, connected with so
manv outrages and factions that desolated Rome, but most interesting, perhaps,
because of the fact that in one of its gloomy cells the beautiful Beatrice de Cenci
lingered for many months; and near its massive, frowning walls, on the ninth of
September, 1599, she was beheaded.
29

ALTAR TO THE UNKNOWN GOD, ROME.

450 AROUND] THE WORLD

There are 380 Catholic churches in Rome. As the Virgin Mary is the goddess
of the Romans, we are not surprised that many of these are dedicated to her; and
costly gifts of gold, silver and precious stones are laid on her altars.

The object of universal attraction in Rome is St. Peter's, the largest and most
famous church in the world.

That the circus of Nero should be the site of the greatest church in Christen-
dom is a suggestive fact.

As you stand at the opening on the wide plaza and look toward the immense
dome, you are struck with the unity of so vast a construction, which was
commenced in 1450 and continued over two centuries and a half.

The approach to the church is made through a colonnade, semi-circular in
form, composed of 284 columns, set in four rows, and leaving between them a
central passage for carriages.

Beautiful fountains and the imposing obelisk of Caligula adorn the centre of
the plaza.

The facade or front of the church, 357 feet wide and 144 feet high, is a
disappointment. It conceals the fine proportions of the remainder of the building^
and destroys the effect of the magnificent dome. Let us enter. In Italy they do
not shut the churches by a system of small doors. Giving a literal interpretation
to the saying: "My Father's house is always open," the}- are content with a
curtain. In passing through the doorway of St. Peter's you push aside a large
double leather curtain, with lead at the foot of it.

You enter as if 3'ou miraculously made a hole in the wall which instantly and
noiselessly closed up.

You are now dazzled with a mass of splendor, as 5'ou face the nave, 600 feet
long, 100 feet wide and nearly 450 feet to the ceiling of the dome. The floor is.
paved with marble of various colors; the walls are adorned with pictures in mosaic
and statues in full or in bold relief, all of colossal size.

On either side of the nave there are five or six chapels used for ordinar}-
worship, and each is as capacious as one of our good-sized churches.

The Cathedral can contain 60,000 people. Within these walls we can count
44 altars, 748 columns, and a council of 389 statues.

There are three objects of leading interest.

We pass the bronze statue of St. Peter, revered by Roman Catholics more
than any statue in the world; and to be convinced of the attention paid it, you
need only look at the toe, which has been polished bright by the kisses of the
devotees.

At the bottom of the nave the eye is attracted to the front of the ma.ster- altar,
at the foot of which are the eighty-seven lamps perpetually burning on the circular
balustrade of the confessional, where it is said the body of St. Peter lies.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

45 1

Before the altar over the grave onl}' the Pope says mass.

Above the altar is a most elaborately decorated canopy supported by four
twisted columns, ninety feet high, made of bronze, brought from the Pantheon.
All Catholics regard it as a great privilege to worship at this confessional. Just
beyond, in the midst of a glory, the chair of St. Peter is pointed out to you. It
is supported by four colossal figures of bronze and gold, which represent two
fathers of the Latin and two of the Greek Church.

The chair that you look upon is only an outside case, containing the curate
seat of Egyptian
wood f a c e d with
ivory, which is said
to have been given
by the Senator Pru-
dens to his guest,
the Apostle Peter.
The Vatican (from
Vates, a prophet,
because here was
believed to have
been the site of the
Etruscan d i v i n a -
tion) is the palace
of the Popes, and
is located near St.
Peter's.

It is not one
building, but a
group of buildings,
dating from differ-
ent periods, but as
.such it is the largest
palace in the world,
1 1 5 1 feet long by

767 wide, containing, it is said, 1 1,000 rooms. Ju.st here, we have reason to think,
were the gardens of Nero, where, as Tacitus writes, he put to death "an
immense multitude" of Christians, on the groundless charge of setting fire to
Rome, and in awful mockery nailed them, clad in garments dipped in pitch, upon
.stakes, and set fire to them. They tellj'ou that St. Peter was crucified here. The
apartments occupied by the Pope are very plain. Immediately above them are the
rooms of the Cardinal Secretary of State.

THK VATICAN, ROME.

452 AROUND THE WORLD

The Sistine Chapel, built in 1473, is the most famous of the apartments of
the Vatican; doubtless, because of the fact that the ceiling and altar wall were
frescoed by Michael Angelo. Upon the ceiling he put his wonderful series of
pictures from the Old Testament, extending from the first day of the creation to
the prophets: and upon the altar wall is the famous fresco, " The Last Judgment."

The loggia (lodja) and stanza, different parts of the Vatican, are associated
with the genius of Raphael, who painted and designed them.

The largest collection of antique statuary in the world is found in the Vatican;
and such masterpieces in painting as Raphael's "Transfiguration " and Titian's
" Madonna and Saints " may be studied within its walls.

The Vatican Library contains more than 100,000 printed books; but that
which raises it above all other collections is the value and number of its manu-
scripts. Of these, there are over 27,000. Most precious, perhaps, of the
treasures of the Vatican is the Codex Vaticanus, designated B. It is written
on 759 leaves of very fine vellum (X. T. covers 142 of them) in small uncial
letters in three colums of 42 lines each to a page, tea inches by ten inches and
a half.

It was carried to Fi'ance by Napoleon I., but restored after his fall.

Besides this there are 18 Slav manuscripts, 10 from China, 22 from India,
13 from America; 80 in Coptic and i from vSamaria; 72 from ^Ethiopia; 590 of
Hebrew origin and 459 of Sj^rian; 64 from Turke}-; 787 from Arabia and 65 from
Persia, illustrated with fine miniatures. In the great libraries of the world like
the Bodleian at Oxford and the library in the British Museum you are overwhelmed
lay the sight of the great mass of books, which are piled up over 5-our head
in endless walls; at the Vatican, on the contrary, 3'ou do not see a single volume.
The collection is under cover of a multitude of .shut and gilded presses.

But we must cross the Tiber again and stand for a moment in a bit of narrow
vallej^, which was, within small compass, the most imposing spot in the universe,
perhaps.

Here gathered, during the turning points of Roman history, the brains of the
Roman Empire; here dramas have been unfolded, which threw both light and
shadow upon more than one empire. The entire histor\^ of the most renowned
of people worked itself out on the scene of the Roman Forum, the .soul and
sanctuary of Rome. We know where the Forum was; jjut only a portion of the
place has been exposed by excavations; much of this historic spot is still co-\-ered
by four and twenty feet of ruins.

It was at the entr}' of the Forum where we now stand, that the Piso lived
whom Agrippina accused of having poisoned Germanicus; and it was there where
he was assassinated, Tacitus tells us, at the instigation of Tiberius, who was com-
promised in the matter.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

453

What wondrous events, on a scene as narrow as that of a play-house, from
the days since Brutus showed there the dagger of Eucretia and Virginius bought
in the shops north of the Forum, down to the memorable occasion when the curia
was burnt before the liody of Ca?sar. Just here was delivered some of the greatest
orations of ancient times; just here were enacted scenes in Roman history that
told both upon the rise and fall of the Roman Empire.

KXCAVATIONS OF THIC lUKUM, ITAI.V.

Every step brings before you memorials of life and death; ever}' broken
monument is an eloquent tongue, telling still the tale of mighty deeds and faded
glory; every crumbling wall seems to open before you, and through its black
bosom comes forth great spectres of history, that remind us of the decay and
death of human honor, hopes and happiness.

Passing along the via Sacra under the celebrated Arch of Titus, leaving the
Arch of Constantine on the one hand, and the remains of the pool in which the
gladiators washed after their bloody combats, on the other, we reach the

454

AROUND THE WORLD

Coliseum, regarded by many as the most august and imposing ruin in the world.
Excepting the Pyramids of Egypt, the world agrees in this opinion.

It w-as commenced by Vespasian in A. D. 72, and completed by Titus after
liis return from the conquest of Jerusalem. Twelve thousand Jews were employed
in its construction. The exterior was adorned by three rows of columns, Doric,
Ionic and Corinthian, some of which are in excellent preservation. It is about
620 feet long, 513 feet wide, 157 feet high, 1641 feet in circuit and could accom-
modate 100,000
persons. There are
four stories of dif-
erent orders of
architecture, and it
is open at the top.
Here it was that
Ignatius was mar-
tyred ; here many
early Christians
were beheaded,
burned and torn to
pieces by wild
beasts.

Another scene
of quite a different
character is recalled
to mind as we look
i;pon this arena,
the death-bed of so
many Christians.

Beneath the
ancient R o m e,
along the fifteen
consular roads

%vhicli radiated from the capitol as centre, there existed in the early centuries
twenty-six great catacombs, which answer to the number of parishes at that time.
Pagan Rome was simply mined by these underground cemeteries, there being
360 miles of winding ways among the ashes and skeletons of the dead.

It is estimated that these leagues of galleries contain no less than six million
of the dead.

Passing through a wild garden some two miles from the heart of Rome, we
descended some thirty steps, and penetrated a series of narrow corridors, one after

TllK t. 1 il^lMa^M, KOMI',

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN. 455

another, cut at right angles and intricate like a net-work of lanes. With taper in
hand, following an old bent monk, we walked for hours through these strange
caverns of the dead.

The use of catacombs as cemeteries long preceded the Christian era. Pliny
informs us that the practice of incineration was not very ancient, and that many
great families had preserved the custom of bur3-ing the dead.

Salust had under his garden catacombs, with chambers for the dead. Moving
through these narrow, low and never-ending passages, where the air is made thick
by the smoke of torches, the tombs of martyrs and heroes draw one's attention
specially. It is easy to make these out, for when the grave-makers closed them,
they fastened in the cement by the side of the head a narrow-necked vessel of
glass in which the blood of the confessor had been collected. You can see, on
nearly ever}' hand, the mark and often the fragments of these vessels. When
the martyrs had been drowned, burned or put to death without spilling of blood,
then, in sealing up the burial place, the workman with the point of his trowel
drew in the fresh mortar a rude sketch of a palm tree, and a number of these are
to be seen.

Occasionally we recognize the calcined bones of a martyr burnt alive, and it
sometimes happens that the bones are crystallized to such a degree as to shine. In
the Catacombs of St. Callistus the paintings are more numerous than in any other.
You frequently see the anchor, the dove, the ship, the fish, whose Greek name
recalls that of Christ and furnishes the initials of the formula: " Jesus Christ, Son
of God, Saviour " (Ir^aoj^ Xrnazo^ " dzov '}?'< I'cozrjo) and many other sj^mbols.
Some of the epitaphs are very interesting. One in Greek reads thus: " Here was
laid to sleep Gorgonius, whom all loved and who hated none." Here is one in
Latin: "Too soon hast thou fallen, Constantia: Admirable for beauty and for her
charms, she lived 18 3^ears 6 months and 16 days. Constantia in peace."

Over a picture of a man swinging a pickaxe the following inscription can be
traced: " Diogenes the Grave-digger, in Peace."

But we must blow out our tapers and stand in the sunlight before the most
perfect ruin in Rome.

The Pantheon, finished b}- Agrippa just before the birth of Christ, is fronted
by a portico, which rests on sixteen enormous monolithic columns of oriental
granite, crowned by the finest capitals, which Rome has bequeathed to us.
Beneath the magnificent dome the bodies of Raphael and \^ictor Emmanuel rest,
A monument raised at the dawn of the age of Augustus, and at the end of the
Republic must be regarded with great interest; but we must hurr>- on. We have
•only time to glance at the celebrated Tarpeian Rock, which forms the southern
portion of the Capitoline Hill, and from whose rugged height it was customary to
hurl persons condemned for treason; and the imposing looking house of Rienzi,

456

AROUND THE WORLD

the last of the Tribunes, whose crusade recalls to one's mind the Gracchi, the
Brutuses and the Scipios, as we make our way toward the most famous highway,
spoken of in the profane and sacred history. Appius Claudius, after digging the
first aqueduct to direct the waters of Praeneste on Rome, opened and paved what
is known as the Appian Way, 310 years before our era. This road is broad and
very straight, with remains, quite visible, of paths and open spaces in Gothic
pavement. The grass is green on the way, but the track of this most splendid of
all historical promenades, remains definitely marked with melancholy grandeur,
by two avenues of mausoleums in ruins, in every shape and size, which may be
counted by thousands. Seneca's tomb is here pointed out. From the last chapter

of Acts we have rea-
son to think that on
some of the stones of
this highway the feet
of the Apostle Paul
pressed, on his way to
^ome and to a mar-
tyr's death. Tihe
place where the great
Apostle was tried, the
cell in which he was
imprisoned, and the
place of his execution
are all pointed out by
your agreeable and
instructive guide.

Before turning

Irom these scenes

which recall so many

facts and fables that are weaved into the history of Rome, let us mount a noble

terrace, near the spot where St. Peter is said to have been crucified, and take a

general view of the city and its surroundings. As described by another :

' ' Rome is only a foreground of the picture, for the view extends toward the
north over the plains, reaching as far as the Apennines. Toward the southeast at
the foot of the Alban mountains it embraces those plains of the old Latium, where
many a heroic battle was fought and won. The sun, ready to set behind us in the
Mediterranean Sea, inflamed with its twilight purple the domes, towers, pinnacles,
and palaces, as well as the volcanic mounds scattered at the foot of the chains and
over the plateaux. Between these two extreme points, the blue-tinged moun-
tains, the city glowdng and ruddy in the midst of the bronze zone of its Byzantine

TEMrLE OF MINERVA, ROME.

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

457

walls, lay stretched before us a mixture of verdure and russet outlines, the country
crossed by aqueducts, covered by ancient villas, and pierced by long roads of old
renown, marked out and lined with tombs.

" The yellow Tiber winds at our feet like a track of sand; going up toward the
horizon it melts on one side in the azure of the sky, on the other in the fires of
the setting sun.

' ' We now leave this museum of all ages. It may look with indifferent eye
upon our revolutions, upon our institutions of a day: its glory, which has already
defied so many ruins, will see new ones, but it has not to dread the fainting
memory of men. So long as society stands Rome will remain the Urbs, the city
of cities, the native land of arts, the sanctuary of incomparable memories, the
home of a people whose character, whose history, whose destiny stand unique
through the current of the centuries."

CHAPTER XXV

GENOA AND GIBRALTAR.

S one approaches Genoa by sea he can readily imagine why she
was called Genoa la Snperba, when she was in the height of
her power.

From the deck of A'our steamer, for miles awa}-, through
}Our marine glasses, you can see the city rising like an
amphitheatre, with its two converging moles, its encircling
fortifications, its piles of palaces, its promenades and gardens
and the verdureless summits of the Apennines and the ice-
covered peaks of the Alps in the background.

On closer examination you find that it is one of the best fortified cities of
Europe, for not only is the large semicircular harbor defended by moles, but the
•city is entirely surrounded by a double wall, the smaller encircling the inner cit}-
lay ramparts, detached forts, redoubts and extensive outworks.

Although I had visited the cit}' some years since, I decided to .spend another
week within her walls, .studying more carefully her people and palaces.

Nearly all of the streets are narrow, irregular and steep, paved with smooth
.slabs of lava, with a pathway of different material in the centre for beasts of
burden: but certain modern .streets are wide, well paved and compare favorably
with the chief thoroughfares of other commercial cities. Man^^ of the palaces do
laot retain their former artistic riches, but they all display splendid architectural
■designs and the internal and external frescoes are well worth studying.

The Palaces of the Doges.

The Palazzo Doria, overlooking the .sea, constructed in 1529 b}- the renowned
Doria, prince of Melfi, while it is almost abandoned, retains striking evidences of
its past beauty and richness; and the ducal palace restored in 1778 after designs
by Simone Carlone, formerlx- the depository of famous works of art, is elaboratel}^
decorated, and gives one a vivid idea of the glory of the reign of the Doges.

As my room was located a .short distance from the via Doges, which is lined
on both sides with the palaces of these old rulers, my mornings were spent, under
the direction of a competent guide, in visiting these magnificent buildings.

You step immediately from the street on the ground floor of the palace,
which is composed of a wide, handsomely paved passage-way, with large rooms

U58)

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

459

<C)n either side, and over winding stairways you ascend to a number of floors,
where the chambers occupied by the royalty are still in excellent preservation.

One of these palaces is now used as the hall of the town council, where a bust
and autograph letters of Columbus, the violin of Paganini and other interesting
•objects are shown.

Wall paintings and elaborate room decorations were very popular during the
reign of the Doges, and some of th'ese that are on exhibition in these palaces on
the via Doges cannot be excelled in the world.

The Republic of Genoa.

In legendary traditions the history of Genoa can be traced to a time preceding
the foundation of Rome, At the beginning of the second Punic war, Livy men-

^A^-oRA^rA of c.t.sox.

tions it as having friendly relations with the Romans, and during this war, having
been destroyed by a Carthaginian fleet, the Romans rebuilt it, and it afterward
became a Roman miinicipium .

Because of its location Genoa has been in all these centuries the centre of the
severest struggles on land and by sea. During the rise and fall of the republic
its internal commotions, caused hy the parties of the plebeians and patricians and
the external warfare in which it has been so often engaged with neighboring and
•distant enemies, have been sources of continual perils and distractions.

46o AROUND THE WORLD

Party struggles assitnied such a bad shape during the first half of the
fourteenth century that the dogate for life was instituted (1339) with the exclusion
of both parties. But there were ceaseless quarrels between the Doges and anti-
Doges under the Viscontis of Milan and under the rule of France, until, in 1528,
the celebrated Admiral Andrea Doria delivered the republic from the French and
established a new constitution, which lasted for many years.

This form of government was strictly aristocratic, and the nobilit}^ comprised
the Grimaldis, Fieschis, Dorias, Spinolas and many others whose names are
familiar to the student of Italian history. The Doge was elected for two years,
but the power of the State had long since departed and the beginning of the end
was fast approaching.

Its Hodern History.

The first year of this century Genoa, under Massena, sustained a siege by
the Austrians and English, but the Austrians, who held it for a short while, were
obliged to relinquish it after the battle of Marengo.

After the coronation of Napoleon Bonaparte at Milan, the last of the Doges,
Durazzo, went to that city and expressed the desire of the people for a change in
government. The republic was merged in the French Empire and formed the
three new departments of Genoa, Montenotte and the Apennines.

This century has witnessed many bloody struggles and many political
vicissitudes in the province of Genoa, and the picturesque cit}' on the gulf is
associated with one of the most remarkable men of the age.

Reminiscences of Qaribaldi.

In i860, Garibaldi, the Italian patriot, entered Sicily with 1000 volunteers.
Palermo and Messina were soon taken, and he became dictator of the island. In
his attacks upon Austria he came in collision with his own government, and we
find him soon afterward planning his well-known invasion of Rome.

His career in the sixties, his association with Victor Emmanuel and the
subsequent change in the Italian government are of too recent occurrence to need
special mention.

Perhaps it is not generally known that after his banishment from Sardinia,
Garibaldi came to New York in the summer of 1850 and earned a living by making-
candles in a manufactory on vStaten Island until he resumed his occupation of a
mariner. Some years later he returned to New York in command of a Peruvian bark,
and in 1867, when he was imprisoned during one of his raids in Italy, he protested
as an Italian deputy, audit was an American citizen who effected his release.

While he was planning his attack upon Rome, an excited crowd gathered in
one of the plazas in Genoa determined to compass his death, and I saw the little

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

461

shop into which Garibaldi entered, and having exchanged his uniform for the
dress of the shopkeeper, passed out through the maddened muhitude and made
good his escape.

It is a source of great interest and pleasure to leisurely saunter through the
narrow, overshadowed streets of old Genoa; to look up the long vista of the lanes
and alleys, where the protrud-

V

ing bay windows nearly touch
each other; to catdi the scent
of the numerous roof gar-
dens, where the poorest fam-
ilies have their brilliant flowers
and graceful vines, and to
drop into an old curio shop
here or a studio of a strug-
gling, but gifted artist there,
and deal in small barterings
or still smaller chat. All
Italians are willing to sell, but
they are anxious to talk.

Home of Christopher
Columbus.

In one of my walks
through Genoa I found in a
most circuitous little street the
house owned for a while by
the parents of Christopher
Columbus, and where a brief
period of the great explorer's
boyhood was spent. It is
marked appropriately over the
door, and while I was trans-
lating the Italian sentences,
from the neighboring houses
a number of well-informed
persons saluted me, and within a short time I was the receptacle of a fund of
information that I am sure would have been startlingly novel to Christopher
himself.

Standing upon the deck of the magnificent German Eloyd steamer " Kaiser
Wilhelm II." we waved adieu to our kind friends of Genoa on a beautiful

COLUMBUS MONUMENT, GENOA.

462 AROUND THE WORLD

morning, and passing over the calm waters of the gulf, as the crown of the queenl>'-
city was lost to view, we turned our course toward Southern Spain.

Strait of Gibraltar.

The Mediterranean was on its best behavior, and, in due time, we were iti
the swift current of the Strait of Gibraltar, which connects the Atlantic and the
Mediterranean and lies between the southernmost part of Spain, from Cape
Europa to Cape Trafalgar, and the African coast from Centapoint on the east to-
Cape Spartel on the west. The extreme length of the strait is about thirty-six
miles, and the narrowest point is only nine miles.

It is estimated that the greatest depth of the water is 960 fathoms, and where
the two continents are close together there is a strong central current, from three
to five miles an hour, setting in constantly from the ocean to the sea. TwO'
smaller currents, one along each shore, ebb and flow with the tide, passings
alternately into the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.

Both nature and art have done much to make Gibraltar the most impregnable
citadel in the world. The great rock forms a promontory three miles long from
north to south, and about seven miles in circumference. It is connected with the
mainland of Spain by a flat, sandy isthmus not more than one and a half miles-
long and three-quarters of a mile wide. Across this strip of land two rows of
sentry boxes mark the Spanish and English lines, the "neutral ground" being:
the space between them.

The Fortress.

The material of the rock is gray primary limestone and marble. Its highest
point is between fourteen hundred and fifteen hundred feet above the sea. The
north, east and west sides of the rock are .so steep as to be nearly inaccessible; and
it is perforated by a large number of caverns, man}' of which cannot be easih-
entered and show remarkable formations.

The view of Gibraltar from the sea would lead }ou to infer that it was
entirely barren, but upon closer inspection you find that its surface is covered by
acacia, fig, orange trees, a large variety of odoriferous plants and numerous wild,
shrubs. It is said that the only wild monkeys in Europe are found here, and alL
those seen were of a fawn color and tailless.

The value of Gibraltar as a strategic point caused it to be a bone of contention
during many centuries. Under the Spanish crown it was so fortified as to be
regarded as impregnable; but in 1704 it was taken by a combined effort of the
English and Dutch fleet, and it was confirmed to Great Britain by the treaty of
Utrecht.

vSince this time besiegers from different nations have brought to bear, both by
land and sea, all the resources of war against the rock, but the " Union Jack'*'

WITH EYES WIDE OPEN.

463.

has floated victoriously over the crash of the cannonading and the boom of
bombardment after bombardment.

A Necessity for England.

To the casual obsersj-er it is apparent why England prizes this position. It is-
the key to the Mediterranean; and as a coaling station, a depot for war material
and a port of refuge, it is a necessity for Great Britain in connection with her East
Indian possessions.

A garrison of from four to six thousand men, at an annual expen.se of more
than a million of dollars is supported here, and it is quite impossible to tell how

GIBRAI,T.\R.

many thousands of pounds are appropriated every now and then to .strengthen this
watch tower on her highway to Egj'pt, Ceylon, Australia and India.

The sides of the gigantic rock are honej'combed with connecting caves,
supplied with cannon, commanding every approach by land and sea. Many of
the natural caves are used to fortify the place more strongly, but nature is aided
by every appliance of military art.

Guns are stationed in secret places, and on certain parts of the rock no one is.
allowed to go -except the officers and regiments in charge.

I was pointed to a beautiful .spot, where the verbenas, the heliotrope and
blooming heath bedecked the rock, and behind these flowers I was informed there
was a screened battery— brazen -throated cannons awaiting to crush the flowers of
nations in times of war.

464

AROUND THE WORLD.

The Town.

There is nothing specially attractive about the town of Gibraltar. It lies ou
a shelving ledge on the west side of the rock. The main, or Waterport street, is
well paved and lighted. The principal buildings are the residences of the
governor and lieutenant-governor, the admiralt}', naval hospital and storehouses;
and during your walk on the chief thoroughfare, as you pass English, Portuguese,
Moors, Spaniards, Italians and Maltese, you are impressed by the mixed character
of the population.

Among the many caves to be seen St. Michael's is the largest and mo.st
interesting. It is more than a thousand feet above the sea level and contains
_great halls and chambers sixty feet high and two or three hundred feet long.

The rioorish Castle.

But to the student of antiquity nothing on Gibraltar possesses more attraction
than the old Moorish castle that is located halfway up the steep precipice on the
west side of tlie rock.

For more tJian scA-en hundred }-ears the Moors held sway over Gibraltar; and
this old relic of the barbaric ages stands here alone as a grim reminder of their
power and prowess.

In girdling the globe, Spain was the last country visited, and, after touching
some of the picturesque islands washed by the waters of the Atlantic, with
inexpressible joy and gratitude, after so many months of peril and pleasure in
.studying the wonders of the world, I took my course toward the land of my love
with the words of De Belloy on my lips and in my heart: " The more I saw of
foreign lands, the more I loved my own."

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